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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • tres1013tres1013 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Mazda Millenia with about 105,000 miles. Upon pressing the gas, it starts to sputt. If i press lightly to accelerate about 3-4 mph it cruises along fine, but as soon as i start pressing the pedal harder to accelerate, it starts to sputt as if it is not getting any gas. I've replaced my fuel filter, i've had a tune-up and even the catalytic converters checked. recently, i've had the computer changed (suppossedly the shop did it) and still the samething. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • bayfrontmombayfrontmom Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1997 madza millenia 2.5 and i recently had new spark plugs installed because
    of a missing problem and was told that i had two burned plugs, now it is still missing,some times worse than others especially within the last few days and the check engine light is blinking,when it runs a little smoother the light will just stay on without blinking but, that only lasts for about two to three minutes,what is the problem?i'm beginning to think that the guy that put the plugs in simply just put one or two back in the wrong order,but then what do i know...can someone help me? : :sick: :
  • hawaiianmikehawaiianmike Member Posts: 13
    A) Is there a "check engine" light on?? If so, it's the #1 thing to go and do, get someone with a code-reader to pull a code out and follow that where it goes--

    B) If not, is it possible that you have water in the gas?? We have to think about that here in Hawaii as salt water intrusion happens now and then, especially with gas stations near the coast, older tanks, etc. Gotta either drain it out or fill it up and drive around 'till it's low and fill up again, and I always add a bottle of STP gas treatment even if I am using 92 octane gas to keep injectors clean--

    C) Next is the O2 sensor---with the sophisticated, computerized system on these cars, the sensors tell the computer how much gas to inject and it sounds like fuel deprivevation as your car starts, and runs at low rpm, so maybe the computer is getting bad info (and hopefully it;s not a bad computer as that will run you $1200 new or maybe $4-500 used for a new computer---ouch!!)

    D) Inspect air filter to intake, looking for blockage or LEAKS---leaks are common with 100,000+ mi systems--

    E) Drink beer---works for me---good luck!!

    Mike
    lifeofreilly@hawaii.rr.com--aloha!
  • bayfrontmombayfrontmom Member Posts: 3
    I have had a new computer put in my car about 1and 1/2 yrs. ago along with much more things as it reached the hundred thou.mark and really have not had any trouble to speak of except needing and replacing my battrey in the last four yrs. but it seems that lately when it rains it pours, i've heard that things happen in threes well, i've had my three,but all and all i really can't complain. thanks for the info. :)
  • dlang12dlang12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a customer that has stated that her 1999 millenia was operating "fine" and the she attempted to lower the sun visor and upon touching the metal she was "severly" shocked. the vehicle then stalled. Upon attempting to restart the vehicle it started fine. However, at this point the only way to turn the vehicle off is to disconnect the ignition system under the hood. I assume that a bad ground caused the initial issue and that the ECM is now shot. Does anyone have any other Ideas?

    MD
  • rgilleanrgillean Member Posts: 1
    Did they ever find the problem with your transmission? I am going through the same thing with my 2002 Millenia right now. Had it rebuilt, drove 400 miles, went out again. Has been back in shop for 2 weeks now, still can't find the problem.
  • steely72steely72 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Millenia with a Miller engine. The light has been on since 3 weeks after I bought the car. The dealer fixed it and it went on after about a month, and about every month after that until it was out of warrantee. I was told everything from using "plus" gas to changing the whatevers? The car runs fine (except that the tires flatten every few days from those super cool rims) after 9 years. I have spent thousands trying to get that light out. I have had the engine torn apart. I now have to get it inspected and the state will not pass it with the darn light on,
  • hawaiianmikehawaiianmike Member Posts: 13
    see last post---was intended for you--Mike In Kaneohe, HI
  • stewwychapmanstewwychapman Member Posts: 1
    my brother gave it to me, he has had it since it was new and since the first oil change has used moble1 synthetic oil, and med grade gas. It haas 170,000 miles on it, everything works well. He works in sales and over 90 percent of the miles are highway, drive like a caddy. Only problem was the rear wheel well were rusted out, had both fixed. Cross my fingers and drive this one like a puppy, hope to make well over 200,000 miles, the trans also has sythetic in it, and shifts and idles very nice. Thank you Bro!!!!
  • rbarnettrbarnett Member Posts: 3
    i need to know how to get belts loose.i have a 1999 mazda mellenia,i found the adjustments that loosen belts,they will not turn,is there somethingelse to loosen?
  • kiminarokiminaro Member Posts: 3
    hello i have a mazda millenia 01 and the engine makes an unoticeable noise like the one made by the fan of the ac. The person who sold it to me told me its the supercharger but when i went to check at a mechanic the day i bought it the they told me it s a bearing that needs to be changed. Then a week later i went to my mechanic to change that but he told me it s the supercharger. Now i wonder if anyone really has a clue bcs the car drive very well and still has a lot of power. Plus the check engine like is on just a week after my mechanic removed it saying it was a stupid code.
    THx
  • krumtxkrumtx Member Posts: 5
    you need to do at least 2 things. first, find out what codes are stored(this is why your ce lite is on), and second, NEVER go back to that "mechanic" who says it was a stupid code. what he was actually saying was that he was too stupid to decipher the code, which in most cases can be found on the web, unless he dont read english. if your supercharger was bad, it would have no power, and smoke like there is no tomorrow.
  • eejameseejames Member Posts: 2
    Bought the car in 2007 from my son-in-laws VW dealership where he works as a finance manager. It has been great. Had a problem with the shifting panel in the car, coke spilled in it. Whole thing was replaced including spark plugs, and a new replacement head light to a tune of $1,200 which my son-in-law paid for and gave us a loaner car.

    He called and said they couldn't fix it. That it was now overheating which was not a problem we had ever had, in fact, we had a new radiator put in about a year and a half ago. He wants us to have it towed to a Mazda dealership. He said he thinks it has something to do with the engine timing. He said diagnostics are different for each brand of car and Mazda would be able to fix it better.

    Does anyone have an idea as to what could be making it overheat? Money is tight now and I am wondering at what kind of costs I am looking at? The diagostic at Mazda is $100 but goes toward the repairs.

    Thanks for any light you can shed on this!

    Elizabeth
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    hey, it could be the water pump going out or the thremostat. no matter mazda going to charge u more for any thing on the s model. i have the 01 and i have problems trying to get it looked at and fix, but i'm like u. u pay a 100 for diagostic and the labor is going to do the rest. and if it's under the timing cover, u would have to change the timing belt also since they got eveything out of the way. all of that i think will be about 2500 with parts and labor and the car we got, a lot of people don't like working on them or don't have anyone that can work on them. i hope that was helpful.
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    also check and see if the fan is coming on. make sure it's plugged up and check to see if the relay is bad.
  • eejameseejames Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info! I forgot to mention though that they did replace the thermostat. I pray it doesn't cost 2,500 and that maybe it is something simple!

    Elizabeth
  • 5th_mazda5th_mazda Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Millenia just starting making an engine noise that when I heard it for the first time sounded like rod/valve train knock or maybe an exhaust leak. The noise only happens when you first start the engine after it has sit (the longer it sits the longer the noise lasts). The noise goes away as you rev the engine up much past 1800-2000 rpm and completely goes away after the first few minutes of driving. I am not sure if cars even have harmonic balancers anymore but sounds just like one of those I had go bad on a 70's Chevy many years ago.
  • 5th_mazda5th_mazda Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what was causing your noise? My post 3951 could be something similar, if not related to the supercharger, as mine is the 2.5. I will let you know if I learn anything as I may bring it in soon. Like this car way too much to let it go on much longer without knowing and risking damage.
  • kiminarokiminaro Member Posts: 3
    hello thx very much for the answer.
    you were right about the mechanic. I went to the dealer and they told me it was my catalytic converter.
    About the noise they said it comes from the supercharger in deed but it is still good for now.
    Now i am wondering. Can i put a 97 supercharger on my 01 millenia S????

    Another thing, my air bag light started flashing and it won't stop. And when i went to the dealer it wasn t flashing anymore. So they did not see anything.
    ANy ideas???
    thx
  • kiminarokiminaro Member Posts: 3
    to 5th mazda, it is the supercharger that makes noise. THey say it hasn't started to take oil yet so it is good until then.
    Now i am looking for a place where to buy a cheap supercharger that matches my 01 millenia s.
  • amberlyjcamberlyjc Member Posts: 1
    im about to trade a 93 jeep for a 1997 mazda millenia im told all it needs is a axle but i just wanna see if anyone can give me some advice on if its a good choice or not and does anyone know what the stock features are? ive seem some are diff in each car so i dont know if its stock or not?
  • bayfrontmombayfrontmom Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1997 mazda millenia ,it is a 2.5 liter engine with the side way engine..there are
    two different enginesfor this yr. mazda, I have the larger one. but I have had it for a little over four yrs. now and have had only two times that it needed work of any magnitude and
    that was to replace the water pump and the other was to replace the main two belts.it has been a jewel of a car and still is.I have 1hundred and fourty-six thousand miles on this car,and still counting,of course I take pretty good care of it and that counts for a lot also.it is fully loaded and it only cost $ 5,243.00 and had 73,426 thousand miles on it at purchase time. all in all I am well pleased with it.
  • hawaiianmikehawaiianmike Member Posts: 13
    Boy, you must be a risk taker and not risk adverse!!

    The Mazda Millenia doesn't have an axle, per se, but has front wheel drive that features 2 transaxles, each going to a ft. wheel, surrounded by struts (like shock absorbers)--I would love to hear how the previous owner determined that it needs an axle---was it in an accident or is this just wear & tear? How many miles on car?? Was the oil clean or black?? Can it be road tested at all or are you going to trust that it doesn't overheat, have bad brakes, etc., etc. Very hard for me to buy a car I can't start cold and drive around in----too many possible problems that can't be diagnosed!!

    I'd pass on this trade and look for one w80K mi or so and can be road-tested and/or looked at by a good mechanic (for around $50 and worth every penny!)

    Millenia's came as standard (no sunroof, cloth seats and few goodies) or deluxe (sunroof, leather seats, 6-disc CD changer in trunk, lots of creature comforts--make sure rack & pinion steering boot is intact and that NO FLUILDS are leaking---put some cardboard under the car after test drive and wait 10 min, looking for any leaks---is oil clear or black?? Check tire wear--should be even and not just on one edge--stuff like that---GOOD LUCK!!

    Aloha, Mike
  • hmaldonadohmaldonado Member Posts: 1
    Have you fixed your problem?? I have a 1996 S model doing the samething. I would love to know what it is.
  • pps708pps708 Member Posts: 1
    hi,
    i have a millenia s 2001,which over heated had to change the engine.after fixing the new engine when the car is started the silencer of the car becomes very hot turning red and the car doesnt move as it suppose to.pls need some help with this
  • satellite34satellite34 Member Posts: 1
    IM having sa codes p1521-1522 and miss fire on piston #3, but every time
    that i put the scanner a new code comes on. But still miss fire on piston #3.

    i was wondering if you resolve the problem on those codes and if the gas that we put on the car should be 89plus. Any tip will be appreciate.
  • hawaiianmikehawaiianmike Member Posts: 13
    First, 89 octane gas is fine, although it would be best if you ran 90+---what I do is run 89 and add an ontane booster/fuel injection cleaner bottle every fill up

    I have found that the distributors on these cars frequently go bad---sit down---they cost over $500 to replace!!! I have a used one that is working fine and will sell it for $100---let me know---also have your spark plugs wires checked---seems to be a weak link in Millenia's (I've had 3) so wires are always suspect--

    Good luck
    mike @ lifeofreilly@hawaii.rr.com
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    1996 Millennia s with 109 k miles. For the past 7 or 8 years (since my extended warrantee expired) I have experienced a grinding sound when I turned on the ignition. I would turn off and then on the ignition and everything ok. This happened about once a month so I put up with it. In the past year it has occurred more frequently so I had the starter motor replaced. All of the teeth on the old one were fine, so the repair shop said it might be the flywheel. I had that replaced (there were a number of teeth that were sheared off. Since then (1 and 1/2 months, the grinding noise has happened twice. mechanic said maybe due to weak battery. I replaced that and yesterday got a grinding sound when I started the car. Any theories out there? other than this, the car is mint.
  • hawaiianmikehawaiianmike Member Posts: 13
    Wow---you have spent some serious bucks on your car---you must love it----I'm on my third, but never an S--

    You didn't mention if you had the oil pan checked for the missing teeth---have to drop the pan as simply changing the oil wouldnt necessarily do the job----the weak battery thing just a rip-off----woulf be careful w/that guy---only things I can think of would be dry bearing somewhere like the S/C'er, but it should happen almost everytime---but pulling the oil pan would be my first idea---aloha, Mike
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    hawaiian,

    I don't understand the connection between checking the oil pan and a grinding sound sporatically when I turn on the car. As for "the weak battery thing" my old battery was seven years old. To reiterate: if it is not the starter or the flywheel what could it be? Any Mazda mechanics out there?
  • lboogielboogie Member Posts: 7
    if i'm correct, everything should line up perfectly. make sure ur mounts are good and do the timing belt and water pump while it's out. i'm looking for an 01 salavge myself since these supposely ase cert mechanics dont know how to work on an s model, so i do my own work. but u should be good with ur spare parts.
  • captainvideocaptainvideo Member Posts: 2
    I'm new to this forum. I hope someone out there can help me. I have a problem with my "neutral safety switch", on my 2000 MM and need to get into the console under the shift arm to replace it. I've looked all around the console, and cannot find a way in. Is the housing around the shift lever snapped on?? I cannot find any screws to remove it. Can anyone pass along HOW to remove the console to get to this area????? Thanks
  • radtodsgrgradtodsgrg Member Posts: 1
    Iboogie I think you have it wrong about Ase certified Mechanics, I am an ASE Master Mechanic and it is not that I do not know.... HOW, to work on them, it is I choose not to!!! What a Pain in the butt!!! there is nothing simple about working on that engine, you need a shoehorn, small hands, and an acrobatic hang wire to keep from falling in and not being able to escape....LOL, The only reason I would even own one of these things was if it was given to me! (which mine was) I checked with the dealer and was told that the short block # and the cylinder head # s are different on 98+up, however, 95-97 are the same, so unless anyone else knows what the differences are on these blocks I am assuming they ARE different and NOT a job I want to take a chance on doing again. Thanx for your input and good luck on your Quest
  • SamBassSamBass Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. The code says it's a catalytic converter issue on warm-up.....huh? After searching off and on for a while I found that this is common(the light) and is usually caused by carbon build-up on the exhaust valve/s.
  • dontbuyamazdadontbuyamazda Member Posts: 1
    so ever since i bought my 2001 mazda millenia, 2.5L, i have had nothing but problems...probably should have done more research prior to purchase...in any case, my check engine light is on with the following code P0400 which is the EGR problem; Question is, does this have to be fixed and can this device (that's causing the problem) create any other problems or basically stop my car from running?
    I took it to a rather good mechanic and he took the part out, cleaned/blowed it and said that there doesn't seem anything wrong with it. he reset the computer and of course the light came back on. sometimes it stays lit, sometimes it flashes. He mentioned that the problem with the EGR valve could also be related to relay switches that are in line; can this be the case?

    notable other problems with this trash car:
    1. heated seats - yeah right, they go out of style like MC Hammer and his baggy pants. i get it fixed and they go out in a matter of a month (at the dealer).
    2. air bad light - had it checked and done at the dealer now 3 times in 4 years...still blinking...tired of getting it fixed.
    3. Hesitation when accelerating or changing from lower gear.
    4. head lights and fog lights - i have replaced the lamps about a dozen times; they go out within a matter of weeks left and right. absolutely ridiculous

    In summary, my experience with my mazda have been rather bad. I will never ever purchase another mazda as long as i'm alive. As soon as my payments are over (yeah i bought it used about 4 years ago) i am gettin rid off that junk.
  • It always amazes me the number of people who say, "I will never buy a ____ again!" after having experienced a badly maintained car, an abused car or an actual lemon. Like other makes, Mazda has some well-rated models and some not so much. Even with highly rated cars quality-wise there are anecdotal stories of disasters. For what it is worth, I had two Millenias (though not recently) and they were quality built, reliable cars. However, maintenance is important, and when buying one of these used, a very through diagnostic evaluation is in order.

    That said, you have some problems with your electrical system (I never had to replace a bulb on either of my Millenias...95 and 00 and the heated seats always worked perfectly). The hesitation may indicate problems with the oxygen sensors or even with the supercharger if you have the S model. Be prepared for big bucks to fix. Better maybe just keep driving it, baby it, change the oil often, and get rid of it when you can. But the electrical problems should be addressed.

    When the check engine light blinks, it means you have more than one code (problem) going on. Good luck, but condemning all Mazdas isn't going to help with the mess you have now, and won't avert one in the future. Buy a good car (and that is almost any new car these days, or a certified used), and then take care of it religiously.
  • jeffb0101jeffb0101 Member Posts: 53
    Hello all. I have an 02 Millenia P and need some help. I need the following lamps replaced and don't know how to get them out:

    1. Front left side marker (amber)
    2. Left front parking lamp (between high and low beam)
    3. Same parking lamp on right side
    4. Both fog lamps

    I am not the worlds greatest DIY person, but I would like to do this without paying the outrageous labor the dealer has quoted me. Any instructions and/or diagrams would be helpful.

    Thanks!

    2015 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5

  • hillaryahillarya Member Posts: 1
    Please help. I went to a mechanic and they have no idea what is wrong. Its winter and Im afraid to stall in this cold and be stranded.
    My car occasionally while driving OR in gear but stopped at a red light will shake very bad. and it feels like im trying to accelerate but it doesnt want to. But that isnt the case. sometimes im even on cruise control but it seems to struggle.
    Also last week my car is now leaking something from either side near my tires. It makes a whirring noise which is new.
    If anyone can help me answer these questions so I can go to a mechanic and just tell him what to fix, I cannot afford to keep bringing it in and paying a diagnostic fee and they can't fix my issues.
    Thanks so much.
  • mazdamadnessmazdamadness Member Posts: 3
    this car is a night mare. 1995 mazda millennia s its turbo charged. . put 1000 in it to get it inspected. check engine light blinking. reads misfire by mechanic.sputters when taking off and up hill doesnt wanna kick in.does eventually kick into overdrive and takes off like a bat outta hell. tcs light kicks on after warms up a bit. [ what is tcs] mechanic said traction control, but few people say its torque conv.?? it sputters kinda jerking like its slipping in gear or something. burns a quart of oil a week on average.if idles too long over heats but cools after drive a few secs.
    some people say cat conv,also when at a light it rocks back and forth like sputter. jerking . some say plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, some say torque conv, some say map sensor, erg. too many he say she say. dont know what to do. my hubby got this car from friend,, i use that term lightly. for 100 dollars and i keep dumping money into it. i cant afford any more guessing games. does any one have an answer,PLEASE. parts are way expensive.i am really hating this car . it seems to be a piece of junk.
    i never should have sold my 97 jeep loredo, straight 6 4 lit engine. what an [non-permissible content removed] i was to let that go.
  • The 95 Mazda Millenia was released in early 94...you are dealing with a 17 year old car with a very high tech engine and supercharger. These cars needed good maintenance, and you got a very old (and probably very tired) car for $100. The check engine light blinking means you have more than one code problem. TCS is traction control. It flashes when traction control is doing its job, and comes on when it is not.

    If you got the car for $100, it was shot. Don't keep dumping money into it. You likely need a new supercharger (VERY expensive), oxygen sensors (not cheap). The engine needs major work...it should not be burning oil. Even if you spent $5,000, you would not likely fix the problems and you would still have a very old car that would need regular maintenance. I say don't put another penny into repairs. Someone already ruined what was a good car. Drive it until you can get something else. Keep oil in it, use the most premium gas you can find, and be patient with all the kicks and sputters...you aren't going to fix those.

    Next time you think you want a 15-20 year old car for day-to-day use, get it inspected before you buy, and try to find something simple (no high tech, no turbos, no superchargers, no high compression engines, and not anything loaded with a lot of toys and options). Meanwhile, if you shop around, you could pick up a 10 -12 year old Taurus for example for not much money. There are many other examples. Something with an understressed engine, and something very common that most mechanics have some experience with. Consider it all tuition in the school of life.
  • raggedymazdaraggedymazda Member Posts: 2
    my 95 mazda millenia will not pick up speed i just put a power steering idler pulley on and i have a new transmission. can somebody please tell me what can be wrong
  • Hopefully it is not the S model. The S has the only Miller cycle engine that was sold here. While it tended to work flawlessly, no more were introduced and it is a difficult engine to service. Just changing plugs is a major deal. If you really still love the car for some reason, find a mechanic who has some experience with the Millenia S and get an assessment. At best, with a 95 Millenia it is worth a few hundred dollars at sale or trade in. Don't sink a lot of money into a car which at this stage of its life will need a lot of repairs and replacements, unless it is one you want to keep for a collection or occasional use. If it is your main ride, for all it may cost you, get something simpler or more reliable. Good luck to you.
  • raggedymazdaraggedymazda Member Posts: 2
    its not th s model and i just spoke with a mechanic and they said it might be my fuel injectors
  • Hey, run some injector cleaner through it before you spend more $$ on the mechanic. Worth a try.
  • jorod3636jorod3636 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1999 Millenia and the cruise control is not working. To raise or lower the steering column is done by an electric motor. Short of replacing the motor what is may be causing this issue. I have search for a possible blown fuse to repair both of the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated
  • rajmirajkarrajmirajkar Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I just purchased a pre-owned 2002 Mazda Millenia in Oct 2009. I would like to know what are the timeframes I need to do a "Full Service Vs Oil Change" etc.

    Since I am not from US, I would like to know what all should I do, to keep my car in good shape. From the place I come from, I use to give it for full service after every 6 months. I am not sure if it is the same here.

    Looking for help. :)
  • 99millsowner99millsowner Member Posts: 3
    Just got a diagnosis re: "check engine" light for my 1999 Mazda Millenia S. Codes that showed up:
    P0170 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 1);
    P0173 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 2);
    P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected);
    P0431 (Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2);
    P1173 (P11XX - Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering)

    Any idea as to what I am looking at with regard to the problem and potential cost of repair? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • tarasbtarasb Member Posts: 4
    On most cars if your check engine light is blinking instead of solid light then it usually indicates cylinder misfire (p0303). on cars with TCS if there is cylinder misfire then PCM (computer) will disable traction conrol system and will display TCS OFF. to fix a cylinder misfire you will have to change spark plug wire(s) (or some newer cars don't have spark plug wires in this case you need to replace the boot that connects spark plug to ignition module). If wires are good then spark plugs could be defective. If the problem is not fixed right away and ignored for a long time then misfire can cause permanent damage to your catalytic converter. Every time cylinder misfires your fuel and air does not burn like its suppose to in a normal combustion and then catalytic converter has to work a lot harder to rearange exhaust gases into a less toxic form, which causes catalyst to overheat and eventually (fail) loose its efficiency - P0431. the fix is to change front catalytic converter (whichever is closest to the engine)
    Cylinder misfire effects engine performance, and catalytic efficiency does not effect performance or gas mileage but you won't pass emmisions inspection.
    P1173, P0173, P0170 are all tied together. I will try not to confuse you. Most four cylinders have only Bank 1, and V6 has two cylinder heads and two exhaust manifolds - bank 1 and 2 becasue cylinders 1,3,5 have one exhaust manifold and cylinders 2,4,6 have another exhaust manifold. Each manifold has its own O2 sensor plus there is usually third O2 sensor after catalytic converter. PCM (computer) uses many sensors such as MAF, IAT, MAP, TPS and Coolant Temp sensor to control fuel to air mixture. If air temp or pressure changes then Air temp sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor gives PCM different signals and PCM increases or decreases duty cycle of fuel injectors to add just enough fuel into each cylinder, and then PCM uses O2 sensors to verify air to fuel mixture in the exhaust. The problem is that PCM can make only minor adjustments to fuel mixtures, and if your fuel pupm or regulator drop fuel pressure then PCM cannot compensate enough and O2 keeps telling PCM that there is not enough fuel or too much fuel for a longer period of time then PCM can throw a codes like: Fues system lean, or Fuel system rich or P1173 Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering. Usually in V6 engines if it says only bank 1 or bank 2 Fuel Trim Malfunction then its probably bad O2 sensor or leak in intake or exhaust manifold due to cracks or bad gaskets. But if Both Banks 1 and 2 have improper fuel to air mixtures then it can get tricky. Here are the possible causes: Dirty or faulty IAT, MAF, MAP. Faulty PCV valve, Coolant Temp sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump. Colgged Air filter or Fuel filter. Or leak in Air intake syster somwhere between MAF and intake manifold or broken vacuum hoses. Or very unlikly broken or corroded engine wiring harness.
  • tarasbtarasb Member Posts: 4
    Oh and forgot to mention tha any Fuel trim check engine codes are very critical, and computer stops to monitor fuel mixtures and goes into limp mode which reduces engine performance and gives you stinking smelly exhaust and kills your gas mileage. If not taken care of soon, can cause permanent engine problems like blown head gaskets, cracked cylinder heads, and so on.
  • powerblockpowerblock Member Posts: 1
    Yes the center trim pops out the you can remove the screws to livt the shifter cover off
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