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Comments
of a missing problem and was told that i had two burned plugs, now it is still missing,some times worse than others especially within the last few days and the check engine light is blinking,when it runs a little smoother the light will just stay on without blinking but, that only lasts for about two to three minutes,what is the problem?i'm beginning to think that the guy that put the plugs in simply just put one or two back in the wrong order,but then what do i know...can someone help me? : :sick: :
If not, is it possible that you have water in the gas?? We have to think about that here in Hawaii as salt water intrusion happens now and then, especially with gas stations near the coast, older tanks, etc. Gotta either drain it out or fill it up and drive around 'till it's low and fill up again, and I always add a bottle of STP gas treatment even if I am using 92 octane gas to keep injectors clean--
C) Next is the O2 sensor---with the sophisticated, computerized system on these cars, the sensors tell the computer how much gas to inject and it sounds like fuel deprivevation as your car starts, and runs at low rpm, so maybe the computer is getting bad info (and hopefully it;s not a bad computer as that will run you $1200 new or maybe $4-500 used for a new computer---ouch!!)
D) Inspect air filter to intake, looking for blockage or LEAKS---leaks are common with 100,000+ mi systems--
E) Drink beer---works for me---good luck!!
Mike
lifeofreilly@hawaii.rr.com--aloha!
MD
THx
He called and said they couldn't fix it. That it was now overheating which was not a problem we had ever had, in fact, we had a new radiator put in about a year and a half ago. He wants us to have it towed to a Mazda dealership. He said he thinks it has something to do with the engine timing. He said diagnostics are different for each brand of car and Mazda would be able to fix it better.
Does anyone have an idea as to what could be making it overheat? Money is tight now and I am wondering at what kind of costs I am looking at? The diagostic at Mazda is $100 but goes toward the repairs.
Thanks for any light you can shed on this!
Elizabeth
Elizabeth
you were right about the mechanic. I went to the dealer and they told me it was my catalytic converter.
About the noise they said it comes from the supercharger in deed but it is still good for now.
Now i am wondering. Can i put a 97 supercharger on my 01 millenia S????
Another thing, my air bag light started flashing and it won't stop. And when i went to the dealer it wasn t flashing anymore. So they did not see anything.
ANy ideas???
thx
Now i am looking for a place where to buy a cheap supercharger that matches my 01 millenia s.
two different enginesfor this yr. mazda, I have the larger one. but I have had it for a little over four yrs. now and have had only two times that it needed work of any magnitude and
that was to replace the water pump and the other was to replace the main two belts.it has been a jewel of a car and still is.I have 1hundred and fourty-six thousand miles on this car,and still counting,of course I take pretty good care of it and that counts for a lot also.it is fully loaded and it only cost $ 5,243.00 and had 73,426 thousand miles on it at purchase time. all in all I am well pleased with it.
The Mazda Millenia doesn't have an axle, per se, but has front wheel drive that features 2 transaxles, each going to a ft. wheel, surrounded by struts (like shock absorbers)--I would love to hear how the previous owner determined that it needs an axle---was it in an accident or is this just wear & tear? How many miles on car?? Was the oil clean or black?? Can it be road tested at all or are you going to trust that it doesn't overheat, have bad brakes, etc., etc. Very hard for me to buy a car I can't start cold and drive around in----too many possible problems that can't be diagnosed!!
I'd pass on this trade and look for one w80K mi or so and can be road-tested and/or looked at by a good mechanic (for around $50 and worth every penny!)
Millenia's came as standard (no sunroof, cloth seats and few goodies) or deluxe (sunroof, leather seats, 6-disc CD changer in trunk, lots of creature comforts--make sure rack & pinion steering boot is intact and that NO FLUILDS are leaking---put some cardboard under the car after test drive and wait 10 min, looking for any leaks---is oil clear or black?? Check tire wear--should be even and not just on one edge--stuff like that---GOOD LUCK!!
Aloha, Mike
i have a millenia s 2001,which over heated had to change the engine.after fixing the new engine when the car is started the silencer of the car becomes very hot turning red and the car doesnt move as it suppose to.pls need some help with this
that i put the scanner a new code comes on. But still miss fire on piston #3.
i was wondering if you resolve the problem on those codes and if the gas that we put on the car should be 89plus. Any tip will be appreciate.
I have found that the distributors on these cars frequently go bad---sit down---they cost over $500 to replace!!! I have a used one that is working fine and will sell it for $100---let me know---also have your spark plugs wires checked---seems to be a weak link in Millenia's (I've had 3) so wires are always suspect--
Good luck
mike @ lifeofreilly@hawaii.rr.com
You didn't mention if you had the oil pan checked for the missing teeth---have to drop the pan as simply changing the oil wouldnt necessarily do the job----the weak battery thing just a rip-off----woulf be careful w/that guy---only things I can think of would be dry bearing somewhere like the S/C'er, but it should happen almost everytime---but pulling the oil pan would be my first idea---aloha, Mike
I don't understand the connection between checking the oil pan and a grinding sound sporatically when I turn on the car. As for "the weak battery thing" my old battery was seven years old. To reiterate: if it is not the starter or the flywheel what could it be? Any Mazda mechanics out there?
I took it to a rather good mechanic and he took the part out, cleaned/blowed it and said that there doesn't seem anything wrong with it. he reset the computer and of course the light came back on. sometimes it stays lit, sometimes it flashes. He mentioned that the problem with the EGR valve could also be related to relay switches that are in line; can this be the case?
notable other problems with this trash car:
1. heated seats - yeah right, they go out of style like MC Hammer and his baggy pants. i get it fixed and they go out in a matter of a month (at the dealer).
2. air bad light - had it checked and done at the dealer now 3 times in 4 years...still blinking...tired of getting it fixed.
3. Hesitation when accelerating or changing from lower gear.
4. head lights and fog lights - i have replaced the lamps about a dozen times; they go out within a matter of weeks left and right. absolutely ridiculous
In summary, my experience with my mazda have been rather bad. I will never ever purchase another mazda as long as i'm alive. As soon as my payments are over (yeah i bought it used about 4 years ago) i am gettin rid off that junk.
That said, you have some problems with your electrical system (I never had to replace a bulb on either of my Millenias...95 and 00 and the heated seats always worked perfectly). The hesitation may indicate problems with the oxygen sensors or even with the supercharger if you have the S model. Be prepared for big bucks to fix. Better maybe just keep driving it, baby it, change the oil often, and get rid of it when you can. But the electrical problems should be addressed.
When the check engine light blinks, it means you have more than one code (problem) going on. Good luck, but condemning all Mazdas isn't going to help with the mess you have now, and won't avert one in the future. Buy a good car (and that is almost any new car these days, or a certified used), and then take care of it religiously.
1. Front left side marker (amber)
2. Left front parking lamp (between high and low beam)
3. Same parking lamp on right side
4. Both fog lamps
I am not the worlds greatest DIY person, but I would like to do this without paying the outrageous labor the dealer has quoted me. Any instructions and/or diagrams would be helpful.
Thanks!
2015 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5
My car occasionally while driving OR in gear but stopped at a red light will shake very bad. and it feels like im trying to accelerate but it doesnt want to. But that isnt the case. sometimes im even on cruise control but it seems to struggle.
Also last week my car is now leaking something from either side near my tires. It makes a whirring noise which is new.
If anyone can help me answer these questions so I can go to a mechanic and just tell him what to fix, I cannot afford to keep bringing it in and paying a diagnostic fee and they can't fix my issues.
Thanks so much.
some people say cat conv,also when at a light it rocks back and forth like sputter. jerking . some say plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, some say torque conv, some say map sensor, erg. too many he say she say. dont know what to do. my hubby got this car from friend,, i use that term lightly. for 100 dollars and i keep dumping money into it. i cant afford any more guessing games. does any one have an answer,PLEASE. parts are way expensive.i am really hating this car . it seems to be a piece of junk.
i never should have sold my 97 jeep loredo, straight 6 4 lit engine. what an [non-permissible content removed] i was to let that go.
If you got the car for $100, it was shot. Don't keep dumping money into it. You likely need a new supercharger (VERY expensive), oxygen sensors (not cheap). The engine needs major work...it should not be burning oil. Even if you spent $5,000, you would not likely fix the problems and you would still have a very old car that would need regular maintenance. I say don't put another penny into repairs. Someone already ruined what was a good car. Drive it until you can get something else. Keep oil in it, use the most premium gas you can find, and be patient with all the kicks and sputters...you aren't going to fix those.
Next time you think you want a 15-20 year old car for day-to-day use, get it inspected before you buy, and try to find something simple (no high tech, no turbos, no superchargers, no high compression engines, and not anything loaded with a lot of toys and options). Meanwhile, if you shop around, you could pick up a 10 -12 year old Taurus for example for not much money. There are many other examples. Something with an understressed engine, and something very common that most mechanics have some experience with. Consider it all tuition in the school of life.
I just purchased a pre-owned 2002 Mazda Millenia in Oct 2009. I would like to know what are the timeframes I need to do a "Full Service Vs Oil Change" etc.
Since I am not from US, I would like to know what all should I do, to keep my car in good shape. From the place I come from, I use to give it for full service after every 6 months. I am not sure if it is the same here.
Looking for help.
P0170 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 1);
P0173 (Fuel Trim Malfunction - Bank 2);
P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected);
P0431 (Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 2);
P1173 (P11XX - Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering)
Any idea as to what I am looking at with regard to the problem and potential cost of repair? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Cylinder misfire effects engine performance, and catalytic efficiency does not effect performance or gas mileage but you won't pass emmisions inspection.
P1173, P0173, P0170 are all tied together. I will try not to confuse you. Most four cylinders have only Bank 1, and V6 has two cylinder heads and two exhaust manifolds - bank 1 and 2 becasue cylinders 1,3,5 have one exhaust manifold and cylinders 2,4,6 have another exhaust manifold. Each manifold has its own O2 sensor plus there is usually third O2 sensor after catalytic converter. PCM (computer) uses many sensors such as MAF, IAT, MAP, TPS and Coolant Temp sensor to control fuel to air mixture. If air temp or pressure changes then Air temp sensor or Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor gives PCM different signals and PCM increases or decreases duty cycle of fuel injectors to add just enough fuel into each cylinder, and then PCM uses O2 sensors to verify air to fuel mixture in the exhaust. The problem is that PCM can make only minor adjustments to fuel mixtures, and if your fuel pupm or regulator drop fuel pressure then PCM cannot compensate enough and O2 keeps telling PCM that there is not enough fuel or too much fuel for a longer period of time then PCM can throw a codes like: Fues system lean, or Fuel system rich or P1173 Manufacturer Controlled Fuel and Air Metering. Usually in V6 engines if it says only bank 1 or bank 2 Fuel Trim Malfunction then its probably bad O2 sensor or leak in intake or exhaust manifold due to cracks or bad gaskets. But if Both Banks 1 and 2 have improper fuel to air mixtures then it can get tricky. Here are the possible causes: Dirty or faulty IAT, MAF, MAP. Faulty PCV valve, Coolant Temp sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump. Colgged Air filter or Fuel filter. Or leak in Air intake syster somwhere between MAF and intake manifold or broken vacuum hoses. Or very unlikly broken or corroded engine wiring harness.