Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda Millenia

1679111276

Comments

  • fosterphxfosterphx Member Posts: 9
    My 99 S only gets about 24mpg when cruising at 75 - 80 mph. I question whether all the complexity of a supercharged engine is worth it. A Nissan Maxima 3l six will out perform this engine in every category.

    Does anyone have problems with numerous dash squeaks and rattles? Some go away by pushing on the dash but two remain. Will dealers address this under warranty after the first year?
  • aldarkoaldarko Member Posts: 2
    Well it seems that a lot of you Millenia owners share my point of view. Back in '97 when I returned from a tour of duty overseas my then wife was insistant on buying a Honda Accord, but there was this beautiful Sand Mica '95 Millenia L that caught my eye at a dealership. I went in without the wife, took the car for a spin and bought it. My then wife was none to happy because she had been brain-washed into believing that a Honda Accord was the best car on the road, and I guess that is because every other car on the road is an Accord. Well a couple of years later we divorced and as a gift to myself I went and purchased a '99 Snow-white pearl/sand mica Millenia S. I loved my '95 but it was time for a change so I got rid of my wife and found the new love of my life my "S" and we are still together and very happy.
  • milleniaman1milleniaman1 Member Posts: 110
    I replaced my ex-girlfriend with my new Millenia back in 99. She was jealous of me wanting to get a new car, we got into a lot of fights over the car...so I got rid of her and got the Millenia.
  • milleniaman1milleniaman1 Member Posts: 110
    I also have annoying squeaks in my dash...they first appeared after only 10,000 miles...the dealer fixed them...but now at 27,000 miles they are back...I plan on having them fixed the next time I go in for service. Last time it was the A-pillar rubbing against the dash, this time I think it is the airbag cover. I also have rattles from the sunroof...which I push on and they go away...I do not plan on having the dealership fix these, b/c my last car ('94 Mazda 626) had sunroof problems...everytime the dealership worked on the sunroof it got worse...I'm afraid they will mess up the sunroof trying to fix the rattle...so I just turn up the radio instead.
  • toddster1toddster1 Member Posts: 18
    Every car no matter what make or model will develop annoying rattles and squeeks. Lexus, Mercedes, BMW, and yes, even Mazda will develop annoying little rattles over time. I have a 99s and have only had two rattles so far. I had one on the rear window deck lid, which i solved by stuffing a few strips of weather stripping between the plastic deck and metal frame by crawling into the trunk. When laying in the trunk just pound on the metal frame and track down the rattles, stuff in a little discreet padding of some kind and pound again until they are all gone. Currently I have a problem with the seat belt pully located by my ear. I have not been able to solve that one yet, but I will. The trick is to stay vigilent and address the noises as they occur.
  • gon4fungon4fun Member Posts: 2
    I just joined Town Hall so I apologize if you have already discussed this issue. I have a 95 Millennia pushing 118 I miles that I have performed all scheduled maintenance on and changed the oil every 3500-4000 miles faithfully. In lieu of the extensive repairs I have had, e. NV boots (St and St), replacement of valve cover gaskets, I still love my Millennia.
    My last major service was done in November,2000 as well as replacing all four tires ($$$). On Christmas Eve after driving seven miles, my car completely stopped on the freeway. There were no warning lights, no smoke,(until after the car stopped and then it was more like a burning smell rather than smoke, and no warning whatsoever. After $500 to diagnosis the problem, I was told after the engine(not the I), was blown and I had four options: 1. replace with new Mazda engine- set. $11,000 2. rebuild- set. $3300 3.rebuilt/remanufactured engine- est. $3200 or 4. repair good enough to get to a dealer for trade in. Of course, the warranty has expired and I cannot get a response from anyone at Mazda. At this point, I am upside down on the loan as the delears will wholesale the car out with $120K and won't give me hardly anything (this is without knowing about the engine yet). I have done extensive research regarding other comparable cars and found nothing that I feel compares- I LOVE MY MILLENIA!
    Finally, my questions are:
    1. Would you replace the engine and which above option would you chose and why?
    or
    2. Trade the care in and deal with the loss? Would you sell privately or go thru dealer?
    3. Anyone else had the engine go and if so, how did you deal with it? Any response from Mazda?

    I would appreciate any response as I need to make a decision ASAP. Thanks
  • butchmilam1butchmilam1 Member Posts: 13
    Gon4fun,
    Sorry to hear about your engine problem. Really stinks.

    First of all, for a diagnosis that cost $500.00, I hope your mechanic gave a lot more details than just "the engine is blown." For that kind of money he should have the problem pinpointed. ie. Camshaft broken, broken rod, etc., etc. Without those kinds of details, how can you make a good decision about repairs?

    Second, engines rarely just quit "without any warning," especially if the problem is mechanical (broken rod, etc.). There are usually many indications something is wrong.... clanging, grinding, banging, or rubbing noises, along with jerks and spurts and hesitation of movement.

    It sounds to me that you may have some sort of electrical or fuel problem. There are a lot of electronics on this car that could cause the engine to stop running without any warning... computer, ignition, fuel pump, etc., etc.

    If the engine will physically turn over when cranking, that's a good sign that the basic mechanics of the engine may be ok, and I would diagnose the basic electronics and fuel before going any further. ie. is fuel getting to the injectors; is ignition getting to the spark plugs?

    For $500, your mechanic should be able to tell you everything that he checked out, and how he did it, and the results of each test.

    If after all is said and done, and the engine really is blown, then I would go with the rebuilt for $3200. Your car has already deteriorated in value that much, so in effect, you have already spent that money. So go ahead and actually spend it, and recoup the value of your car. Now you can sell or trade or keep it as you wish, with a clear conscience.

    This engine is so complicated I would doubt many mechanics could rebuild one successfully, even Mazda's. Almost certainly not as well as a good "factory rebuilder," and $13000 for a new engine is just too high. Afterwards, the value of the car would be less than the cost of the NEW engine! So why do that? You'd be better off selling it for salvage/parts.

    Let us know what the specific problem is, if you find it out. It might help many of us when we encounter it. Good luck.
  • mantagmantag Member Posts: 47
    have to agree about going w/ a rebuilt engine for $3200. check around various dealerships. price could vary.

    btw - was it a 95 s? I have a 95 s, so far, no engine problems other than normal maintenance. i have 90k, but.......
  • jean7of9jean7of9 Member Posts: 192
    All the points raised by butchmilam1 are valid. However, for such a major diagnostic and repair job why don't you go to a qualified dealer. A good dealer is compelled to provide you with a written evaluation describing the problems and the needed repair. A general mechanic do not/not have all the special-to-type equipment for such repairs and adjustment. Furthermore I do not think you will be saving money by undertaking such major work outside any Mazda dealership. Good luck.
  • aldarkoaldarko Member Posts: 2
    I myself would have to way the options thoroughly although you may be upside down on the loan of the vehicle, think about the fact you will be adding at least another $3000 to your debt by replacing the engine. Compare the difference of what you will get in the trade to what you will spend to have another engine put in.
    If it comes to getting another engine I would opt for the remanufatured, with a good warranty.
  • furypitcherfurypitcher Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 96' in the shop now with the engine seized up, only 61,000 miles on it. Going home for Christmas on I-40, got a flicker of the oil light, turned the radio down heard knocking as I got to the side of the road it seized. Talk about losing speed. Glad I was almost off of the freeway when it happened or the semi behind me would of nailed us. Anyway Mazda service manager says a bolt broke on something inside the engine (can't remember exactly what)which caused it to seize. We thought we were lucky we've bought the extended warranty from Mazda. A new engine will be $4000 plus labor. Now we are being told they don't want to pay the claim for two reasons: 1) Slug and lacquering in the engine ( service manager says the engine is free of slug and that all engines will have lacquering after a while. 2) Lack of maintenance records. We had the one's since we got to my new base, but the one's we had from Lf. where missing. Couldn't find them any where. We were able to get one from Fl., we were still in their computer, but the other places purge their computers after a year of inactivity. We've been here 15 months. Our service manager is fighting for us, but I'm still going to base legal today to get some back-up.
    Anyone have a problem with Mazda's extended warranty not holding up to their end of the margin? Even when they finally see the light and pay the claim it will still take a week for the engine to come in and then who knows how long to install. Looking around 6 weeks without wife car. Tried calling Mazda's support line but was on hold for 30 minutes. Any help or hints will be appreciated. Thanks in advance,

    Eddie
  • rzawarskirzawarski Member Posts: 47
    there seems to be some misinformation on posting to this group
    such as 2 convertors on Millenias and a mechanic saying that the reason the S smokes at startup is because the S/C blows smoke out the exhaust, fact is the S/C at startup is under vacuum and the ABV directs incoming air directly into the intake manifold sort of bypassing the S/C.
  • lanceodlanceod Member Posts: 3
    I have 99 S and is searching for ideal tires for the car. I have factory dunlop sp4000 215/50/17's. I have 17k miles and have maybe 5000 miles of treads left. Any brand and size recommendation would be appreciated. What anyone thinks about getting 225/45/17s' would this lessen the performance? Hurt the suspension? what are your experiences?

    Another question for the mazda experts out there: I know that 2001 model has the microfiltration system as standard equipment. Do anyone know if it is possible to put one on my car?
  • gon4fungon4fun Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the responses and sorry for the typing errors. Spell check did bizarre changes! The quotes I was given were from Mazda dealer-sorry if I failed to mention that. Also, there was no banging, clanking, etc. As furypitcher stated, it just froze and I was lucky enough to get to the side of the freeway as well. The car would not turn over after that and then, every warning light the car has came on.
    Guess I will start getting quotes- Thanks
  • eunos800mdeunos800md Member Posts: 4
    So what is the cause of the white smoke then? If there is no "major" fundamental problem, then any advice / comments on what it could be would be very greatly received

    D
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    I also would like to know the real reason behind the white smoke, my dealer service manager told me it was the super charger blowing alot of air all at once out of the tail pipe at start-up, but now some say it is not, who is right?, also is it a problem or not?, according to my dealer it is not a problem.
    Does any one know?

    regards
  • mill700mill700 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 95 with 67000 miles. I have a weird grinding rumbling noise in the front wheels when driving on the highway and especially when turning. The tires were just rotated,and they are starting to cup like the front end is misaligned. I had it aligned this summer, and no major jolts to the front end. This seems like maybe a wheel bearing problem. The steering wheel shimmy's slightly when let go of it, but I think that is from the tires? Anybody incur this problem?
  • mantagmantag Member Posts: 47
    if you hear a "whining", iy sounds like the front wheel bearings. both will run you around $500. If you hearing a grinding or grumbling, it may be the front outer cv boots broke open and their is no grease left - hence the grinding metal sound. if this is it you will need a new boot and a new transaxle(try for a reman. one) expect to pay approx $300 ish for the repair. with front wheel drive, you really need to pay attention to the cv boots - once they break open - its too late, you will need to get a new transaxle. replace the boot before it breaks no matter what mechanic says, approx $80. iwould change every 60k at max.
  • ddrake30ddrake30 Member Posts: 18
    To follow up on mantag's post, if the wheel bearings are bad, there will probably be some play or whobble in the wheel against the hub. This is better checked with the car on a lift, but if they're really bad you may feel some looseness by trying to (aggressively) move the wheel/tire against the hub while the car is on the ground.
  • butchmilam1butchmilam1 Member Posts: 13
    To go4fun: Still would like to know the specific failure your engine had, if you know it. That info would help the rest of us a great deal. Thanks.
  • butchmilam1butchmilam1 Member Posts: 13
    To furypitcher:
    Yours is another rough situation. Sorry.

    If Mazda stonewalls you on covering it under warranty, it's probably worth a lawsuit because of the high costs of repair. Also, you may be able to pursue it in small claims court without a lawyer. Your burden of proof will be a little less there, and the judge will know that warranty/insurance companies always try to weasel out, using the flimziest of excuses. Plus, the warranty company will have a lawyer either way, and they may decide to just pay your claim rather than pay the lawyers. It's better for business too.

    Their side: Of course, Mazda'll say you violated the warranty contract since you didn't maintain it properly (we know you did, but that's what they will say since you are missing complete records that show you did).

    Your side: If what records you do have, show you have a pattern of changing the oil/etc. on time, then it's reasonable to assume you continued to do so during the period for which you have no records. Also, if you can show that the engine failure had nothing to do with periodic oil changes, that would definitely help. Perhaps the Mazda service people can help you there, especially if the warranty company is a 3rd party not even connected to Mazda, which is usually the way it is.

    Also, it's a possibility your lawyer may find in the "discovery phase" of the lawsuit, that this is a problem that often occurs even when the car IS "maintained properly." Hence, maybe it's a design problem, making Mazda more amenable to settling your claim.

    Lawsuits are a big hassle, but that may be your only alternative. I would say you have a 50-50 chance, even without the records. An experienced "plaintiff's lawyer" can work wonders sometimes. Why not talk to one about it? Usually a 30 minute conference is free. Good luck.
  • butchmilam1butchmilam1 Member Posts: 13
    furypitcher,
    I forgot to mention: make sure Mazda knows that you are a member of this group, that you have made us all aware of your problem, and that 1000's of us loyal Mazda owners are watching to see how they treat you.

    ie.. it would be very bad for business to treat you unfairly. Good luck.
  • rzawarskirzawarski Member Posts: 47
    Concerning only Millenia S's in US and 800M's Aust
    There hsve been 5 different part #'s on the Lysholm compressor in an attempt to solve the problem of failing "Mechanical Oil Seals". Mazda
    never publicly admitted to the problem with a TSB but did distribute a "Service Tip" to it's dealer's advising replacement of the Lysholm compressor (only under Warrenty) if complaints were received of "Excessive Smoke at startup AND high oil consumption". Incidently as of Jan 1999
    the problem apparently had not been solved because
    Mazda issued a new part #KJ05-20-7AXC to be installed on yr 2000 Millenia's. IHI manufacturers
    the compressor.
  • butchmilam1butchmilam1 Member Posts: 13
    Hi rzawarski,
    Thanks for the new info. Can you tell us your sources for it? It would help the rest of us to knowledgeably play along. Thanks.
  • mazda_nutmazda_nut Member Posts: 25
    Man, I really need to get back and check this forum more often! Our 95L still needs some TLC and I need your assistance.

    1) How much did it run you (anyone?) to have your cam seals replaced (non S model)? Trying to get a general idea - I was quoted $600-$800! Seems like the labor is high due to that manifold.

    2) I need to improve the lighting - anyone replace their bulbs with higher wattage? And what kind of improvements did you see compared to the dreadful old Millenia lighting. I know of a Philips HID package for about $400 - but do not know if I want to make this kind of investment or not.

    Oh, and I also battling the Check Engine Light/O2 Sensors as well and can provide anyone some info that I have found out - I will be replacing these myself - they are not that hard.

    Thanks for your valuable input!

    -maz_nut
  • rzawarskirzawarski Member Posts: 47
    Much info was gleaned from my own studies
    Mazda Millenia Service Highlights: Mazda Part #999-95-095F95
    SAE Technical Paper #940198: Development of V6 Miller Cycle Gasoline Engine
    SAE Technical Paper #94083: Development of the High Performance Lysholm Compressor For Automotive Use
    Sae Technical Paper #938219: Miller Cycle Engine Management System and its Distinctive Features
    Mentoring by Terry Berg a truly tenacious and knowlegeable Mazda Master Tech
  • kelly46kelly46 Member Posts: 5
    Hi to everyone.....kelly46
  • kelly46kelly46 Member Posts: 5
    I recently purchased a 95 with 38K miles, it is a great car but there is a strong smell of burning oil after driving. It is not using oil so where can that smell be coming from?
  • kelly46kelly46 Member Posts: 5
    I paid 10K for a 95 mazda millenia miller-cycle, with 38K on it. perfect inside and out. other than two very small door dings. It looks like it just came out of the show room. I thought it was a good price, what do you think?
  • acabral1acabral1 Member Posts: 122
    Based on the mileage facts and condition description you conveyed I think got a fair price on the car. Does this price include all applicable taxes and fees? if so, you did well; according to all the published pre-owned values.

    Oh ya, what was the sticker price?

    Regards,
  • acabral1acabral1 Member Posts: 122
    The burning odor in which you are describing is very difficult to diagnos without actually knowing / experiencing the symptoms that are associated with it; many underlying causes exist. If you furnish this information, maybe some of us can provide assistance.

    However, consider getting your engine flushed, before doing any major repairs or services, which can be very expensive and useless. The engine flush generally cost around $50.00 or so dollars and shouldn't take more than 1 or so hours to complete.

    Regards,
  • acabral1acabral1 Member Posts: 122
    Oops, forgot to mention to you that you should consider doing your own exterior engine inspection. There may be a possibility that oil or other fluids are buring from the engine or manifold, et cetera........... Which could have resulted from a sloppy oil/fluid change.
  • kelly46kelly46 Member Posts: 5
    I purchased the car from a private party. So that was the selling price. He originally was asking 12K.
    Thanks for the info about the burning oil smell. I've never heard of an engine flush, but I did price replacement on the valve cover gaskets ($500 or more). YIKES
  • 92_3000gtvr492_3000gtvr4 Member Posts: 1
    Anyone buy a Millenia S with 4 season package and wheels lately in the Twin Cities area? If so, what was the price and where did you buy?
  • mazda_nutmazda_nut Member Posts: 25
    Has anyone swapped out their older one color turn signals (like from a 95) or tail lamps for the newer looking ones? Can this even be done? Anyone know?

    -maznut
  • milleniaman1milleniaman1 Member Posts: 110
    The '99-'00 turn signals are the same...just the color is different...same for the tail lights.

    The '01 taillights should also work on any older Millenia.
  • wmartin13wmartin13 Member Posts: 2
    I notice that someone posted a question earlier about tire replacement options. I replaced the stock tires on my '99 S with 215/45-17 Dunlop SP9000's, and have been happy with them. The handling is better, especially on wet roads, and the ride and noise are about the same. The 9000's have much longer tread life than most high performance tires. I do wish that I had gone with a 235/45-17 instead. I would have if I had known then that they would fit. The 215's are a little smaller than the stock tires, resulting in some speedometer error. There appears to be plenty of clearance, and this is the size used on the Eunos 800-M SP, although I believe those were Pirellis. I do not know if a 245 would fit.
  • ddrake30ddrake30 Member Posts: 18
    I've recently started having problems with the antenna on my '96 Millenia and was wondering if anyone's experienced anything similar. The antenna extends fully without a problem; however, at first it would retract only partially (I would have to push it down the final way), but now it retracts all the way, yet the motor keeps running for about 5 or so seconds, making a loud grinding-type noise. Any suggestions other than taking it to the dealer or just replacing the antenna altogether?

    Thanks.
  • jean7of9jean7of9 Member Posts: 192
    Frost is the enemy of all electric antennas. When the antenna is frozen, the last part is usually stuck out and needs to be pushed down manually. If you live in a chilly region with below freezing temperature you may want to lubricate the antenna (when deployed) with a brake or transmission fluid. Such fluid remains liquid at very low temperature. Try retract/deploy the antenna many times after lubrication, this may solve your problem. Good luck.
  • milleniaman1milleniaman1 Member Posts: 110
    It will only cost you $100 for a new antenna...I had to replace mine on my old 626...luckfully I now have a 99 Millenia...which has the antenna mounted in the back window.
  • furypitcherfurypitcher Member Posts: 3
    Well everyone, last week Mazda agreed to pick up 50% of the repairs, even though they didn't have too. I guess someone finally convinced the extended warranty to at least pay the other half. Got to say that Mazda of North America with help from the regional manager and service manager really came through for me. The new engine for my 96 Millenia should be deliveried early next week and we should get it back a few days later. Not sure if I'll ever buy an extended warranty again, but will concided a new Mazda vehical in the future.
  • butchmilam1butchmilam1 Member Posts: 13
    Furypitcher,
    So how much are your out of pocket expenses going to be? Did I understand that Mazda and the warranty company is picking up 100%? Glad it worked out for you.
  • duncan49duncan49 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 95 Millenia with the 2.5 V6 engine. It has 105,000 miles. The first time I start it in the morning it blows white smoke for a few minutes and smells like it is burning oil. It does use a quart every 2,000 miles. When I changed the plugs, the middle plug on the back side had oil on the top of the plug, but no oil on the tip. All the plugs looked as if they were burning clean and evenly. I had it hooked up to an analyser and it showed all cylinders were within 1% of each other in compression and operating temperature. I have not done a compression test.

    I have a bulletin from Mitchell about a valve cover gasket problem that would explain the oil consumption and smell but not the white smoke. I have seen other messages in this forum about white smoke but they all seem to affect the supercharger. I suspect the valve seals are bad and need replacing.

    Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what was your solution? Has any one had the valve seals replaced and if so what was the cost? Has anyone had the valve cover gaskets replaced and if so, what was the cost? Are there any Mazda Techs that visit this forum?

    I suspect the cost of replacing either the valve cover gaskets or the valve seals would be high because of the location of the intake manifold. I guess my big question is would I be better off repairing the white smoke and oil consumption problem, or to drive the car for 25,000 more miles (an average year for me) and then sell it at a low price. I don't have a lot of money in the car but I do like the way it drives.

    Duncan Smith
  • mantagmantag Member Posts: 47
    try using axle grease/lube(thick greyish looking stuff) come in a tube. i put some on and it works great. you do not need alot
  • mazda_nutmazda_nut Member Posts: 25
    Duncan - if you read a few posts back, you will see the same questions I was asking on our 1995 2.5 L model. While we do not have the white smoke (yet), we do have the same problems. Here is what I found out last week that may help you:

    1) Valve seals need to be replaced FIRST - ours was done in our 60K - they are a pain, but need to be done for the sake of your engine's life. Our 60K ran us about $500 because we supplied many of the parts needed.

    2) The valve gaskets are a whole new ball game in itself. They are a pain to get to because of that manifold. I have been quoted prices from $380-$500! I can do My Miata (or 2 Miata's) for under $100 myself - it is almost all labor. The bottom of our engine is coated in oil. We have that burning oil smell right when we come off the highway or a run in the car because that oil on the engine just recirculates into the vents.

    You see, the 95 Millenia is the pits. It really is...I know so much about the development of this car and I am shocked it was even produced when it was. Based on my experiences and others that I have talked to, the car just falls apart after 60K or so. We have had the following replaced before 65K miles:

    1) New Radiator
    2) CV joints
    3) All O2 sensors bad (need to be replaced)
    4) Headliner is bad
    5) Oil sending unit replaced
    6) Interior gauge lights bad - new CPU installed
    7) H20 Pump went bad
    8) Radio replaced
    9) Center visor replaced (TWICE)
    10) Front bumper paint is flaking (noted on Mazda TSB)
    11) Valve Cover gaskets need to be replaced
    12) etc, etc, etc

    Anyway, if there is any more info I can share - let me know. We have about 94K on our 95 L.

    -Peter
  • emeraldcityemeraldcity Member Posts: 19
    I share your frustrations with the 95. I've been posting my adventures with my 95 S with 86k for almost a year now. I'll be dumping the car off at 95k there abouts for a PASSAT. I love the look of the Millenia but I'm tired..so tired of the repair costs. I've replaced everything except the kitchen sink on this car. Joy!
    LYONS4...are you still there. Sorry it took me so long to respond. ZMax is working well. I passed emissions, despite a supercharger leak, blow by oil causing white smoke on start up etc. $4000 to replace. Go for it....it'll make the car last longer...I hope. More later.
  • mill700mill700 Member Posts: 7
    I had my O2 sensors replaced, then a vacuum hose caused it, and if the gas cap is not tight, it will cause it too. check the lesser before spending $$$$.
  • lyons4lyons4 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for Emeraldcity for responding to my question about Zmax.I've only used the product for the fuel so far.Once I get that oil charge I will use the oil product.A friend had mentioned that some of these products end up gumming up the engine.However,he is not familar with this product. thanks again
    Mazdanut.I purchased my 95L in Dec.1998 & that same night the alternator or its equivlent went out according to the dealer(It made me miss my christmas party that year.)The dealship fixed it & let me drive a maxima;which ididn't like that car.But since then I've had the following happen:
    2)some type of oil plug on front of engine-(I pd 4
    3)water pump(warranty pd for)
    4)timing belt (I paid for)
    5)transmission(warranty pd for)
    6)value cover(warranty pd for)
    I presently have 73k miles & this morning after letting my car warm up for about 15 minutes;I went out on the interstate & as soon as I floored it my rpms went to around 7k or 8k before it accelerated.We use to call the blowing a gear in the old days.Has anyone else ever experienced this? That's my story & I'm sticking to it.Have a nice day.:)
  • rmck46rmck46 Member Posts: 8
    TO Mazda_NUT

    2001 tail lites are close to 00 and earlier but lower corners toward liscense plate are angular on 2001 while 2000 and earlier are rounded.They are not interchangeable IMO
  • mazda_nutmazda_nut Member Posts: 25
    Guys - thanks for sharing the wealth of experience - I am checking into those vaccum lines as well as that gas cap. We had the Mazda run a scan and found out that 2 of the O2 sensors are bad - I believe there are 4 in the S model and 3 in the L. It really SUCKS having to pay over $100 for each freakin O2 sensor! At least they are easy to get to.

    We will be having those valve cover seals replaced very soon and I'll report later.

    What really scares me is that I have heard so much about those tranny's going out! Ours is still intact, but no longer under warranty - cross yer fingers!

    rmck46 - thanks for the info.

    -Maz_nut
Sign In or Register to comment.