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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    I've also noticed an almost resonant-like hum since the temps have gotten cold (20's to 30's). It is, or course, most noticable when going slow and seems to stop shortly after I do. Slight surging also seems to be there when this happens. This first started happening around 33-34 K. Thanks, cards 200, for the tip about the Idle Air Control Valve. It sure sounds like that may be my problem. Maybe it'll warm back up soon so I won't have to worry about it until next winter.
  • hankrtghankrtg Member Posts: 5
    I've had my 2001 MPV LX for about two weeks now, and I've noticed two issues that I have not seen posted in any of the MPV forums. One is speedometer calibration. I think mine might be reading high. The other is the heater, Either the MPV has a weak heater or mine needs to be looked at. I need to set the temperature control halfway or better into the red area to feel an appreciable amount of heat. And even then, I need the fan runnning to really warm the car up quickly. This is really different than the Rodeo that I had. In the Rodeo, if I put the temperature control much past the center point (where the blue and red overlap equally) I had plenty of heat. In fact, I really didn't need to use the fan on the highway at all because the car speed was enough in itself to force sufficient air throught the vents. Is a somewhat weak heater a characteristic of the MPV? If it is, I can live with it because I can get heat - I just have to get used to turning the temperature control up more then I'm used to.

    Other than those two issues, so far, the MPV seems pretty flawless, and I'm getting a lot of positive comments from nearly everyone who sees or rides in it.

    BTW, in some previous posts, I've mentioned a brake clunk sound when releasing the brake pedal. I think the sound might be coming from the brake pedal itself rather than the brakes. It seems to be making that sound when the pedal hits the top of its travel.
  • billmckinleybillmckinley Member Posts: 167
    Your description of your heater sounds pretty normal to me. Every car I've owned worked the way the MPV does. That Rodeo must have been one hot car .
    Don't worry about the heat in your van. Crank it all the way over at the beginning to get the car thoroughly heated. I guarantee that in about five minutes you'll be backing it off to avoid sweating. Unless, of course, you live in the unnatural state Javadoc inhabits. But he's got his polar bear rugs to keep his tootsies warm if it gets too far below absolute zero up there.

    Happy miles.

    RJ
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Our heater kicks it out. Though, yes you do have to put the heat past half. Y'all probably have one person who's always hot (me) and another who's cold (my d.w.) so imho, the heater kicks out googly amounts of heat, even at those "unnatural" temperatures. But, this is the same thing I've noticed w/most of my other cars, in that you don't get heat until you're at about 2/3 or higher on the dial, and you do have to use the fan in my experience. My first VW Rabbit didn't need the fan, so that's one exception I guess. My '90 MPV didn't have a great heater, and it would give up the ghost heat-wise at about minus 20F, but we don't crank the heat even at thos temps in the '00 MPV.

    /j
  • canielcaniel Member Posts: 28
    Thanks everyone for the leads on the "humming" problem. I'll get the dealer to check the Idle Air Control Valve and see if that does the trick.

    Cheers!
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
    Mine seems to read high also. We live in a subdivision that has one road in/out; it's about a mile long. The posted limit is 35mph, but almost everyone goes 45-55+, which isn't good since there are bike/walking lanes along each side. The police department occasionally sets up one of those unmanned radar units which displays your current speed, and, of course, they follow up a few days later with speed traps. Anyway, the MPV always reads at least 3-4mph higher than what the sign displays, while my Honda reads right on the money.

    SC
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    What tires does yours have? The stock 16" and 15" wheels result in different outer tire diameter. 205/65-15 tires have about 25.5" outer diameter while 216/60-16 are 26.2" in diameter which is about 3% larger. Meaning that if the speedometer is calibrated for 15" wheel, then when riding on 16" ones your speedometer will read less than you are actually doing, however if it is set for 16" tires and you have 15", then your actual reading will be higher (3% at 50 mph is about 1.5 mph). Still not 3-4 mph but this could contribute to discrepancy.

    I guess we just need to do some real tests. The easist way would be to go on a highway with mile poles, and while going 60 mph you should reach the poles every minute. Have someone operate a stopwatch and drive for 10 miles at exactly 60 mph (set cruise to that speed) and then see the time differentce it took you to cover that 10 mile stretch [should be 600 seconds]). You can do the simple math to get your actual speed at which you were going.

    I guess next time I will go outside (of the city) I will do the test myself. But if someone does it earlier, please report back.
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    you going into the chat today?

    /j
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
    I have 15" wheels, with 205/65 Mich X-Ones. The police didn't start the radar thing until after I replaced the OEM Yoko's, so I can't really say it was the tire change. Oh well, I have a little speed buffer I guess ((EG))!

    SC
  • hankrtghankrtg Member Posts: 5
    Mine are the 15" wheels with the Dunlop tires. I'm glad someone besides me believes the speedometer reads high. I've been guessing that it is about 5 MPH high at about 60 MPH. So, 3 to 4 might be correct. But, if it really is about 3 or 4 MPH too high, then I think that the Rodeo I traded might have read slightly low because I'm convinced that the MPV reads more than 3 to 4 MPH higher than the Rodeo. I plan to do the mile marker test sometime, but haven't gotten around to it as yet. I did mention the speedometer issue to the salesman at the dealer where I bought the car. He told me they would need the car all day to test it and would have to send the car out to recalibrate it. So, I wouldn't be too happy about losing the car for probably more than a day.
  • dougseydougsey Member Posts: 20
    I took her to the dealer on Tuesday for warranty repair, which they had seen once before on an '01. They replaced the front pads and retaining clips, part # SPO LCY8-33-29Z Pad Attachment, FRT.

    So far, the clunking is completely gone. I was in and out in an hour.
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
    Maybe I'll take mine in too, at least I'll get new brake pads! Did you catch my update a while back on the Mich X-ones and vibration problems? Anyway, the tires are real smooth, but you know, the van still vibrates some and it's not the tires (I can tell - very perceptive posterior ). It feels like it comes through the steering column and through the accelerator. It really seems to occur when I have the AC running, which is almost all year-round down here. IMHO, I think it still has a lot to do with the under-powered engine and tranny mismatch. I'm not the only one who's ever noticed this - I've seen it on reviews, whether on this board or in print. And no, I'm not a hypo-"car"-driac. While I have many of the sames problems I see mentioned on this board and elsewhere, there's plenty of others that I thankfully don't have. The fuel smell comes to mind as a biggy. Oh, while I'm rambling on, I had to have my fuel door issue addressed again. They finally replaced the whole cable mechanism and release latch. The service tech said he's seen this numerous times. He claims that the cable gets warped or bent somehow. Now there's a problem seemingly indigenous to me as I've not seen any others on this board with that issue.

    done

    REPORT "End Of Rambling"

    exit 0

    SC
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
    OH MY GOD! It's no sooner than I click "Post" on my previous message that I get a call from my wife, who's at a gas station again on empty and the freaking fuel door won't open! I'm MAD! This is the fifth time. I've already called the FL Lemon Law folks, but they say I have no recourse since I purchased the van "used", even though it's a 2001. Don't get me wrong, I like the MPV fine, but it's really hard to drive without gas! I'm about ready to call the dealer and tell them to put me in different van, although I'll probably just be pissing in the wind. Anyone have any advice for fighting battles such as this?

    SC
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    send me an e-mail please. maltbarley@yahoo.com
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I'll preface this by saying that we are exceptionally pleased with our MPV, now creeping past 23k miles this week. Only a few items with the van in 2.5yrs, and one that hasn't been resolved. Wife really really wants a 2002, so we'll see about that sooner than later.

    That said, my wife is complaining that the "1-2" buttons on the radio have been sticking down lately. I tried to get them to repeat their trick last night, but no-go. She maintains that there isn't anything spilled in them (hmmmmm), but I thought I'd ask if anyone has had this happening with them. I'll prolly have the dealership look at it on the next LOF visit if it keeps presenting.

    The only other issue we've had that I have not figured out is that when we go over bumps (or a bumpy snowy road) there is a dull thump/clunk that emminates from the rear of the van. I thought it was the spare, but that's amid-ships. Anyone have this happen, and have a solution?

    Like I said, loving the van. I even get to take it to the races this weekend, that I'm working at... I should see how it does on the 1-mile, 6-turn road course. heheheh.

    /java
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    You are not alone with the fuel door sticking. However I'm surprised that you have it on 2001 van. I guess Java had this as well, right? In most cases people cure it buy lubricating hinge, or something. Java, could you please refresh my mind what you did to yours?

    I remember reading some Mazda repair memo on that issue and they mentioned that it was a design issue which is addressed in vans produced after November 99 (if my memory doesn't play tricks on me :-). Since then they have supposedly changed the design and the problem no longer presents itself. Well, it was my impressions on the subject so far. However after your incident, I may reconsider my views :-) It could be either an isolated issue with your van or there is more to the problem than I'm aware of...
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I just use WD-40 on it about once a year. I squirt some in the latch and moving parts back at the door. You do know that everything on this planet can be fixed with WD-40 and Duct tape, right? FWIW, I very rarely have the fuel door sticking, like once a year is fairly accurate.

    Others may have a different method tho. I have heard about a re-design/fix, etc. also Alex but I don't have specific details on it myself.

    /java
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    Javadoc: We used to in joke in NASA that if it wasn't for duct tape we would not have landed on the moon...

    The WD40 works on the fuel door btw. The first time it stuck I pulled the latch up hard three times and it did pop open then. After the "javadoc fix" it hasn't happened again. Haven't found a use for the duct tape yet tho....
  • tboner1965tboner1965 Member Posts: 647
    some metal bending to get the pin that holds the door shut to release just a tad bit sooner. But that was nearly two years ago, so I'm a bit fuzzy on the details.

    TB
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    Sorry, my bad about the date of modification of fuel door design. I was confused. :-) I just verified it and here are the details:

    ------
    Model: 2000 MPV
    Affected VINs: Y0100001 - Y0158235

    After actuating the fuel lid release lever inside the vehicle, the fuel lid does not open. Most likely to occur during cold conditions. This is caused by excessive hinge resistance and sticky rubber stoppers. A spring lever has been added and rubber stopper has been modified as of Sept. 1, 2000 mass-production.

    Part Information:
    LC62-42-459A Rubber stopper
    GA5R-42-451C Lift spring
    ---------------

    It still doesn't list 2001 models but I guess they stared production of '01 model before Sept 2000, so scarter7719's MPV must be produced before that date, even though it is technically 2001 model...

    For what it's worth, mine never stuck yet (2000 LX with 44,444 km - yes that's what I saw today on the odo. Cool number, huh?)

    I hope it helps.
  • dougseydougsey Member Posts: 20
    Refresh my memory please. Who is it that's responsible for the name "MochaVan" ??
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Well, that would be my d.w.... ;-)

    She maintains that is is espresso and soft-drink free. I wonder...

    /java
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
    Thanks Alex! As usual, your info is correct. My van was built Aug. '00 just prior to the change in mass production in Sept. I was able to verify this Friday and was given the same two part numbers that were listed in your post. The dealer claims to have replaced "every part imaginable" to fix this, but it was discovered that they have never replaced these two parts. They are on order now and, I hope, will be the silver bullet to finally put this ordeal to rest. I would recommend that you include this info in the TSB area of your website, because I can definitely vouch that this was a big problem for me! No amount of WD40 would work, nor have any of the dealer's fixes. It's amazing how something so simple in function can wreak havoc on a vehicle's operation!

    SC - still fuming, but starting to cool off
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    Ok, I have posted all the info I have on issues like sticking fuel door on the MPV web site. It's in the Info section of http://www.vakcer.com/mpv/ (Problem Repair Information Notices). I hope it helps.
  • brmudabrmuda Member Posts: 50
    I had the brake "fix" (installed front brake pad shims & replaced pad retainer clips) applied afew mos ago. It was supposed to eliminate the "clunk" coming from fr brakes.

    Well, the "clunk" is still present (even immediately after the "fix"). Now the Mrs informs me that the ABS dash light came on yesterday during her drive to the office. Later the same day, the light goes out & hasn't come back on yet.

    Taking it to dealer tomorrow to check out the ABS light. When I mentioned the infamous "clunk" (which sounds like it's coming from BOTH fr & rear at times) to service dept, he said there's a another "fix" they're going to apply which totally replaces fr brake parts. We shall see.

    I will keep you all updated.

    brmuda
  • stone20stone20 Member Posts: 22
    I have the same problem with brakes. I have had it fixed twice and the noise is still there. I also have another noise in the front end that has been fixed once and is still there. Mazda is suppose to have a fix for both noises, we'll see. One question for the group, has any one had any problems with the paint chipping on there Vans like doors,hood,front bumper,anywhere?? Excessive chips is what I'm talking about here. JL
  • pjd58pjd58 Member Posts: 366
    We have had our MPV for 10 months and have approx. 15 very small chips on our hood. The paint on the MPV, IMO, is very fragile. Our doors and bumpers are perfect. My Wife's tailgating on freeways doesn't help either. I have had my 01 Protege for 5 months and have zero hood chips.

    Next time I take the van in for service, I'm going to see if Mazda will repaint our hood.

    Pjd58
  • stone20stone20 Member Posts: 22
    Its a battle to get them to paint your hood, Remember to have the fenders blended in. You will notice if not. My story coming at a later date.
  • pjd58pjd58 Member Posts: 366
    I've purchased 5 Mazdas in the last 10 years and 4 of them from the same dealership, let's see if they go to bat for me.

    A 10 month old van shouldn't have 15 chips on the hood, it is definitely a defect.
    Pjd58
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Wow guys! The only chips I've got are from inconsiderate folks in parking lots, along the sides of the van. I would have thought with the crud they put on our road here that I would have all kinds, but the front of my van is chip-free.

    Good luck Pj at the dealership! I should imagine that some dealers will work w/you, esp. if you've been loyal, just like you have.

    /java
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    I get the chips from inadvertently getting behind one of the three million 18 wheelers doing 80 in Houston. I just love it when all of a sudden it sounds like you are in a hail storm.
    You should see my windshield!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I haven't had chips on any of our MPVs: Red, Silver and White.
  • billmckinleybillmckinley Member Posts: 167
    A year on "the Prez," including two salty winters, and no chips on the hood. Sounds like you've got a defective paint job there, pj. Good luck with your dealer. Here's where you find out just how much he values loyalty.

    RJ
  • stone20stone20 Member Posts: 22
    My inquiry about paint chips is a rarity, except pj. My van is loaded with paint chips hood/bumper plus all over. I drive on normal roads myself. The color is red and primer white, so you see all kinds of white chips on the red! The dealer already painted my doors from paint chips, but are claiming normal wear on the hood/bumper. I went to 2 body shops that said bad paint job on the Van, for a 2000 Van. My insurance company is involved and said bad paint job. I am in the middle of dealing with this matter with Mazda Corp. Any suggestions are welcome. JL
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Push as hard as possible to get an appointment with the Mazda service rep. Once you have an appointment, make sure you have somebody there that knows paint and is on your side. The Mazda rep will throw a few things out that would leave most people dumbfounded, but they are no paint experts. Keep pushing for a complete re-paint and be sure to document everything anybody has to say about it.
  • stone20stone20 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the suggestion. I wish I had that suggestion a couple of weeks ago. I will the next meeting guarantee. I have already met with the Mazda Rep. once. Your exactly right on the Mazda Rep. He tried to throw out my case on the chips Thats why I got my insurance company involved. They are in the process of dealing with the case for me. Mazda has since agreed to pay half of the bill, NOT good enough to me. I will keep pushing because I'm right and they know it. They thought I would just drop it, FAT chance. Thanks for the support and any other suggestions! This was a good learning experience for me. Hey Room Maltb nailed it on the head about dealing with these people.
  • chubb2chubb2 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. We got our 2000 DX in Feb 2000. Generally we love this van.

    We have had a number of front-end problems though and was hoping somebody could give us the benefit of experience in what Mazda will/should do:

    -Alignment done under warrenty at 18,000km (~10,000 miles)

    - At 25,000km (~16,000 miles) Mazda replaced front rotors free as they were severely vibrating when braking.

    - Now, at 38,000 km (25,000 miles) they are starting to deteriorate rapidly again.

    Car is very well treated!! Any suggestions?
  • john339john339 Member Posts: 229
    I'm looking for a used minivan. Are there any model year MPVs that are better or worse than the other in term of problems? Has anyone had engine problems like the Toyota Sienna is experiencing?
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
    We've had our '01 MPV for close to six months and have had zero engine problems. I've read through these boards for almost as long and was pleasantly surprised to discover that the Duratec engine has proven very reliable. It was also used in the Contour/Tracer.

    Sorry, I don't know much about other MPV's prior to 2000 (when the design changed). Actually, this is our first minivan. If you want used, the '00 & '01 may be hard to find. I just did a quick search of eBay and AutoNation and found nothing, at least in my area. Try your local Mazda dealer(s). They might also still have some new '01 MPV's and I bet you could get a really good deal.

    SC
  • evaddaveevaddave Member Posts: 156
    Over on the Solara board there has been a lot of discussion about the engine sludge problem (the Solara shares the same engine). It seems that the problem is mostly due to poor/shoddy maintenance. About 0.1% of the Siennas are coming in with this problem, which is about the same as other makes and models, and all of the engines with the sludge show signs of no maintenance or poorly performed maintenance, and some owners have brought fraudulent receipts claiming to have performed the maintenance.

    In our experience with our '00 MPV, we have had no engine problems, much like scarter already mentioned. It seems to be a very reliable engine.
  • scarter7719scarter7719 Member Posts: 89
  • mpvlemon1mpvlemon1 Member Posts: 2
    Wife still loves her 2000 MPV LX with 30k miles when it runs. You can eat off the floors inside and is hand washed regularly. I unfortunately am concerned for the number of times it is in the shop and has left her with the kids stranded.

    Once out of state after church (visiting Grandma) when she had to rent a car to come home (200 miles away) so the kids would not miss school the next day. We had to pay for the rental $100, but Mazda in their gracious ways paid to tow the van to the local dealer 15 miles away. The wrecker driver, my father in law (electrical engineer) and my wife could not start it. Mazda found nothing wrong with it the next day and refused to give us a receipt for the diagnosis.

    It has stalled in intersections with less than 200 miles on it. The said it was the fuel at first and made us feel like idiots, but after pressing them they just learned of a recall on the computer.

    Mazda's standard first response several times is "did you put diesel in it and we will have to lower the tank to verify it". Hey we are morons and like pulling up to a pump on the other side of a filling station, hanging with the 18 wheelers, putting a wrong size nozzle in the tank and paying a premium for fuel. They have replaced the computer (their expense) and throttle body (our expense not covered under warranty).

    We looked at the Odyssey, but as we drove an Accord Wagon previously, the Odyssey seemed too big. Should have bought the Honda. They stand behind their product as we had Hondas from 1988 to 2000 without being stranded.

    Anyone else have these problems?
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    I'm curious... why wouldn't the dealership replace the throttle body under warranty? I'd assume that's automatically covered, unless you're out of warranty now? As for the Honda Ody, that'd be a roll of the dice also, as that particular vehicle is prone to more failures per 1000 than the MPV.

    I don't think I've heard of an experience like yours with regards to the new MPV.

    /java
  • bharrellbharrell Member Posts: 21
    We have 46,000 on our 2000 MPV LX. I love my van, but right now it is in the shop having the rotors turned because they are warped (they say they don't know why that happens, it just does!) and the brake pads replaced, the tie rods replaced because of continuous alignment problems that I have been begging them to do something about since I bought the van, wheels that are rusting out for no apparent reason, and to top it all off, my CD player just quit! Fortunately I am still under warranty, but this service department is awful. If I mention any of the service bulletins that I have read about on these boards, they act like I am crazy. I really like the 2002 with the bigger engine, but I hesitate to buy another Mazda because of the service issue.

    One question for you all. The technician working on my van today said that this van was made by Ford and that it was on the same platform as the Windstar, but somehow I just can't believe that. I know it has a Ford engine, but it surely is too small to be on a Windstar platform? I have been looking for an aftermarket cassette player to install and he swears that a Windstar dash kit will work for the MPV since nobody lists one specifically for the MPV. What do you all think? Any responses will be greatly appreciated.
  • pjd58pjd58 Member Posts: 366
    your tech has been inhaling too many gas fumes:) The MPV and Windstar couldn't be more different. Find another Mazda dealer for service ASAP!
    Sorry to hear about your front end problems, I'm trying not to get personal:) The 2000 had a few issues with tie rods and alignments. Our 2001 LX with 14,000 miles has always tracked straight as an arrow.

    Pjd58
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    As nicely as I can put this, your dealer is on crack. Pjd couldn't have said it any more clearly. RUN... don't walk from that dealership! The MPV is nothing, nothing at all, related to the Windstar, except that FoMoCo has an interest in Mazda. Different engine, trannies, pan (chassis) suspensions, different everything. Any dealer tech should know this, but I wouldn't expect joe-consumer to know that.

    Does anyone know a good dealership near Knoxville that Bharrell can take her van to? I'd call Mazda's toll free number and tell them about these guys if I were you. I've heard good thing about their folks there.

    Most likely though, your rotors were warped by someone that over-tightened the lugnuts (tire shops w/air-tools is baaaad). This'll warp a rotor in nothing flat.

    Re: your CD player... get it replaced under warranty... at a different dealership. You're still under the 3yr part of your warranty, right?

    Best of luck,

    /javadoc
  • pjd58pjd58 Member Posts: 366
    you so right about Tire shops warping rotors. I always have gone to Discount Tires, they know their stuff. Great service, good prices, large inventory and experienced installers....the mgr told me their techs go thru extensive training before they ever touch a car.

    Also, spraying cold water on your rotors can warp them in a heartbeat. Never wash your car after a long drive, let those rotors cool down.

    Pjd58
  • bharrellbharrell Member Posts: 21
    You all have pretty much confirmed what I already knew. There is another dealership not too far away that I will deal with in the future for sure. This is the first time that I really got the sense that EVERYBODY at this dealership was an idiot! I have been 2 other times about the alignment issue before I gave up and purchased a lifetime alignment from a local shop I have dealt with for several years. Of course they are probably the people who caused the rotors to warp! I guess I will have to be a little more careful who I trust.

    I was certain the guy didn't know what he was talking about but wanted confirmation from people that obviously do their homework.

    One more thing-anybody got any ideas about the aftermarket cassette player other than what he told me? Thanks again, Betsy
  • danandkatdanandkat Member Posts: 67
    I have a 2001 LX with the Security and Four Seasons package. We purchased it in September 2001 and it now has 6283 miles on it. We use it primarily for long trips, and it sits in the garage most of the time when we are not travelling far way. We are generally quite pleased with our MPV, and the problem described below is more an annoyance than a major issue.

    Can anyone give me some help or ideas for dealing with this? The air coming out of the two left dash vents is about twenty degrees warmer than the air coming out of the two right vents when the control is turned counterclockwise four 'clicks' from maximum heat. I checked this using a digital thermometer with a lead on it to verify the temperature discrepancy. There is no discrepancy when the temperature control is turned all the way over to maximum heat, but I haven't checked every possible setting to see where the problem does and doesn't occur. I first noticed this on a day with outside temperatures in the 10 to 20 degree (F) range. When I had it in to the service shop the temperature was in the 30s to low 40s, so I don't think this is dependent on outside temperature. This is occuring with the engine fully warmed up.

    I went to the local Mazda dealer where the service guy repeatedly told me "The temperatures should be the same" (implying that if it SHOULD be the same, it in fact WAS the same, and I was wrong). I pulled out my thermometer and gave them a demonstration, and they then kept the vehicle for a while to investigate. When I came back to pick it up, they told me that they had contacted Mazda and that the temperature readings were "within specs" so nothing had been done. I then contacted Mazda myself to find out what the specs were, and was told by Mazda that there are no specs for this. I guess the temperature difference meets non-existent specs! Hmmmm.

    So, has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, how did you handle it? I guess I can probably live with it by reducing the airflow on the driver side, or some other fiddling with the vents, but it would sure be nice to have driver and passenger enjoying the same air temperature blowing on them out of the vents. Imagine if your living room had a twenty degree temperature difference between where you and your spouse sit! Does anyone have any suggestions on dealing with this, or getting more cooperation from Mazda on the matter?

    Thanks for any assistance or advice --- danandkat
  • toyrotatoyrota Member Posts: 66
    danandkat,
    Call the 1-800 Mazda customer service number, and have them open a file on this problem for you. They should contact the dealer, and have them take a more serious look at the problem. Don't take NO for an answer.
This discussion has been closed.