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Comments
I already called nation BMW, even my 530iA manufactured on 11/01, but it is not on the recall list.
I'm a fan of European Delivery, but the best you could probably do is about $36,400 from a dealer that discounts ED. Whether saving another $1,800 to $2,000 (gross of travel expenses) is worth going through the process is questionable, unless you would want to go to Europe for the fun of it anyway.
My opinion of the 528i vs. 525i is easier. Unless the extra $4,500 is simply too much of a stretch, go for the brand new 525i. In 3 years, you will have a three year old car (that you broke in and took care of) instead of a 5-year old one. In 2005, I am guessing a 2002 525i will be worth at least $4,500 more than a 2000 528i. Also, the 525i with a 5-speed should perform at least as well as a 528i with automatic, if not better. As you can tell, I am biased towards new, but unless the 2 year old version saves you at least 25% (i.e. approximately $9k), I think the "objective" financial analysis says to go new. Why give up the first two years of a new car for only a 12% savings (unless you plan on keeping it for 18 years and hate a new car smell).
The car has cold weather and premium, but no other options. As I was fondling it, Lois (one of the sales staff) said "I know you're interested in a manual. If you're interested in that car I think we can sell it for invoice or pretty close."
If anyone is interested in pursuiing this one, I can give you the location, etc., for the dealership: jwilson1@net1plus.com
Take care.
Joe W.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
First, the abbreviation for your model is usually "540i6" or "540i6sp", not "540iM". The "M" is reserved for those rarified Motorsports-cars (even though it is inconsistent with the "5xxiA" for automatic versions).
Second, "optimal" shift points is about as vague as "best way to invest money." It depends. When the engine is cold (and you're still in the break-in period), keep it under 4k rpm's. As you pass the 1200 mile mark, you can gradually (it took me about 2 days!) increase engine speeds to accelerate quickly, but that certainly comes at the expense of fuel economy. But with a 540, I'm assuming performance was higher on your priority list than fuel economy. As for sixth gear, it is indeed rather tall (0.83 ratio). BMW added it mainly to help keep fuel economy to respectable highway levels, since the V8 is such a guzzler. It'll keep your RPM's low, but for passing with any sense of urgency you'll need to downshift.
As for the speedometer error, BMW's are notorious (in fact, there's an article in this month's Car and Driver about it). When indicating 70, you're actually going about 67. When showing 80, it's more like 76. You can get a more accurate reading by setting cruise control (to keep the speed steady), and reset your trip computer's "average speed" setting. In a second it'll show you far more accurately your true speed.
But I've found the speedo error helps keep me from going way too fast (which is all too easy in my 530...85 feels like 65 in my last car). It's like setting the alarm clock 10 minutes fast.
Thanks.
JH
Thanks.
JH
Over the past few weeks, I have now "checked" the speedometers of our Nissan Maxima (reads 70 mph going 66.7), our Isuzu Trooper (reads 70 going 69.2), our Honda S2000 (reads 70 going 70.0) and a friends 540iA sport (reads 70 going 65.6). Clearly, the BMW was off the most.
Even the odometer seemed slightly off on both the Nissan and BMW. Considering that "extra" miles on a lease are usually charged at 10 to 15 cents, I would be complaining to BMW if the odometer was reading 2-3%+ high. Over 40,000 miles, that's an extra 1,000 miles that you haven't really driven. Do I smell a class action in the works??
For a car company that can get it right with engine tolerances down to 1/1,000th of an inch, you would think that an acurate speedometer and odometer would not be that much of a challenge. Although it is an interesting way to reduce 0-60 times.
I tried ordering the cold package without the headlight washers. It used to be possible to special order this, but no longer. Even if you able to special ordered this, the difference was about $30, miniscule really. Guess if it really gives you angst once you get the car, you can take if off.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
thx folks - you have the most informative forum on edmunds
I've put over 4,000 miles on my CPO '98 540iM in the 13 weeks I've owned her. An absolute joy to drive. And a relaxed cruiser on highway. You get the best of both worlds. Awesome acceleration & top speed as well as great highway fuel economy. I averaged about 24.5 mpg on my 800 mile roundtrip this week. About 90 percent of time was doing 74 mph on interstate with cruise control on.
Enjoy the relaxed cruising in 6th on interstate. Just downshift to 5th or 4th if you want to accelerate or pass. Of course, you can cruise in 5th if that is your desire.
(Refer up a couple of dozen posts about how ridiculously high used prices sometimes seem vs. new...)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks to all on this board who were so helpful!
Any idea if they would do a comparable deal at $1,000 over European Delivery invoice??
Congrats again.
DL
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
60 MPH (Speedo) = 57.7 (OBC)
70 MPH (Speedo) = 66.6 (OBC)
80 MPH (Speedo) = 75.3 (OBC)
90 MPH (Speedo) = 84.7 (OBC)
Of course this is an unscientific test, because where I thought the speedometer read 80, for example, may have actually read 81 or 79. Difficult to check it for preciseness when driving in traffic and trying to look down at the speedo for more than a second or so. By the way, my car is a 2002MY 530i 5-speed and has the sports package (also PP and zenons).
If the odometer uses the speedometer as its source, then this means that I will have less actual miles available on my lease. It also means that I am not speeding as irresponsibly as I thought! However, just in case, I bought a radar/laser detector. Never can be too careful.
I filled out the J.D. Power "2002 vehicle quality survey" today. Gave the car very high marks. No defects or problems during my first 2500 miles of ownership. I love driving the car. However, a few areas did receive less than outstanding marks: cup holders (surprise!), center arm rest height, and stereo (I have the base unit - the stereo is good, but should have been better for a $40K+ car). But no car is perfect. For the price, however, this car comes closest (that is why I bought this car).
I am looking at a 525 i with automatic transmission, cold weather package, premium package, xenon lights. How does one find the "true" invoice price and how much over invoice should I be willing to pay for this car. I live in the Washington DC area. Thanks in advance for any help.
The invoice price is the "true" invoice price. There are dealer holdbacks that lower the cost to the dealer, but most of the price negotiations are based off the "invoice" price, not some lower "actual dealer cost" price. I would have said that $1,500 over invoice would be a good target for a 525i. However, ek2 above (post #2639) managed to get a $1,000 over invoice deal in New Jersey.
Do you have any interest in going the European Delivery ("ED") route? If so, I have referrals by which you could get about $1,500 over the ED invoice, which works out to about $1,200 UNDER US invoice, not including travel expenses. DC area dealers are not anxious to discount ED, but I have a Pennsylvania dealer from my hometown that will treat you right.
Hope this helps. Good luck.