Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
What puzzled me the most was how it worked. Shift the car into D for regular driving. Nudge it to the left for SPORT mode. From there nudge it up and down for AutoManual mode. But if you want to go from AUtomanual mode to Sport Mode, you have to go back (Right) to D (regular), and then nudge it back to the left to get SPORT mode again.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
In addition, Ferrari shops are able to read the use of the machine when they work on it. And in the contract is a clause that allows the company to buy back the car if you haven't been using it hard enough!!!
I don't know if that is myth or not, but even if Ferraris weren't so very beautiful, that is the sort of thing that makes me want one.
"Hon, I've gotta go to the track again this weekend or we're gonna lose the car. See ya!"
Take care.
Joe W.
Porsche 911s actually are the worst cars to be sitting in a garage for long time, as the flat six engine collect moisture more than V or I engines.
Upshifts:
If you are just tooling around with no serious intent, shift when crossing over the 2000 rpm boundary.
If you are in traffic, keep the car 1 gear lower than you might otherwise do for the previous example, or shift at more like 2700 rpms (this will give you more ability to squirt into a hole in traffic).
If you are being fairly aggressive with you acceleration, shift anywhere below redline that keeps you within the accelerative area you desire.
If you are trying to hit Mach 2 as quick as possible (preferably with your hair on fire), wind that sucker out to the redline. ;-)
Downshifts:
Slowing down, keep the revs above 2700if you might have to accelerate again at any given moment, keep them below 2700 if you are intending to come to a full stop.
Approaching a corner, prior to entering the turn, downshift to a gear that will give you the type of acceleration you desire through the turn (1st, 2nd or 3rd typically).
Passing, drop a gear or two (or even three if conditions warrant), nail it, and then return to your normally scheduled program.
Downhill, downshift to keep the car at the speed that you desire, however, I would also use the brakes if the hill is steep enough to rev the engine above 4500 rpms.
I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Shipo...I will print your instruction and put it in my glove compartment just in case I have to refer to it from time to time. I don't have to worry about reaching Mach2 because I am not sure if I will be able to handle it. I want to take a few small steps first and then I may try to pull a quick one. If I get stopped by a cop I will show him your instruction and say that I am taking a driving ed test conducted by prof. Shipo, you think he will let me get away with that? Fix your brake warning light yet?
As for passengers complaining about the sport package, it's never happened to me. I am two weeks +/ from delivery of a 2002 M5 that I decided to trade up to. I still expect to put 16-20k+ miles per year on it. It may offer passengers a somewhat rougher ride than the 540i, but if they don't like it, they can walk!
I have had two adults and two children( not including me as driver) on 1-2 hour trips and everyone loves the ride...smooth...solid.(Only complaint was the slightly cramped quarters with three in the backseat.)
I have owned my 530 since last May and it has driven me to work (17 miles one way) reliably each day. Hope this helps.
Oh yeah! Every cop in North America knows of Dr. Shipo, they will have no problem letting you off on any ticket when driving per my instructions. Ummmm, NOT! ;-)
As for my brake warning light, its still on, I took off the right rear wheel (the one with the rear sensor) the other day and the pads back there still seem to have some meat on them, so that is not the problem.
I have been more than a little busy this week, so, I will call my dealership early next week and find out if a "Reset" is required by a tech. I will post when I find out.
SergeyM,
I am just finishing up on a lease of a 1999 328i, which has been my daily driver since Jan-1999. So far, I have had to replace the wiper blades a couple of times, the front brakes (just a couple of weeks ago) and a single brake light on each side. In my book, that adds up to a very reliable car for daily transport.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Take care, '
DL
If, however, you are still deciding between 5-series, I do believe the 530i 5-speed is an excellent choice. The BMW inline 6 will not be quite as expensive to maintain and the 5-speed manual transmission is exceptionally durable. So, if you were asking the question a different way - say, which 5-series would you recommend for someone who wants to keep it fo 8-10 years to the tune of 150-200k miles, I would personally pick a 530i 5-speesd over a 540ia. I would get as much driving enjoyment out of rowing my own on a 530i as I would from the extra horsepower of the 540ia. I even think that the 530ia is an excellent choice, since the 3.0 litre engine remedies the underpowered feel of the 528i quite adequately. And I actually believe that with the sport package, the lighter 530i handles slightly better than the 540i. But that's my subjective assessment; I've never seen an objective side by side test.
In other words, you can't go too wrong with any 5-series, just decide what's right for you. If you've already decided on the 540ia, be assured you can drive it daily without guilt.
I'm guessing you likely are out of luck. This is one of the breaks of leasing. (I'm not a fan of leasing.) If you don't use up the miles, then you are using up less of the vehicle and it will be worth more to its owner (the leasor) when it retakes its car at the end of your agreed to lease period. But, also guessing there is some clause in your lease that lets you buy the car from the leasor at a pre-established already agreed to price. By keeping the miles down, you are raising the value of the car and getting "more" for your money if you decide to buy it outright from the leasor.
Please let us know what you find out.
Given that I must lease for tax reasons (I am a partner in a couple of small businesses), I decided to go with BMW-FS this time around, and to buy only 12,000 miles per year. I was told that if I alert BMW-FS six months before the end of the lease that I would be over mileage, they will charge me $0.16 per estimated mile over the 36,000 mile limit, and then pro-rate the charge over the last six payments. If I wait to the end of the lease, the charge would be $0.20 per mile. The 530i that I have on order will be the fifth car in the last 14 years that I have leased, and the way BMW-FS deals with over mileage is easily the best deal I have encountered to date.
In your case, assuming that BMW-FS is your leaseholder, I would call them and see what their policy is regarding under-mileage cars. I heard a rumor in 1998, when I was shopping for my 328i, that BMW-FS would buyback unused miles at lease end, however, I have never confirmed that statement. The other option, plan a few cross country trips over the next few years, and enjoy the miles that you are paying for. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Any reliability stats out there on the BMW that can help me out, or does anyone else out there agree with me. I will be driving my 530 500-700 miles per week - so reliability is huge to me!!
My 98 Maxima GLE runs every day, no squeeks, clinks, weird sounds, etc.......
If there is one thing Lexus owners praise their cars for it is the reliability of them, and the way they are treated by their dealers!!
Opinions and experiences please!!!
Check out: http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=3671
The 5 series ranked 10th out of 194 vehicles in initial quality based on number of reported problems out of 100 vehicles. Granted, a lot of these problems are probably jammed coin holders, but it is a measure of quality.
One comment on quality I've read that sticks in my mind: How many 20-30 year old Japanese sedans (vs. BMW's, Volvo's, etc.) do you see on the road?
-Murray
Others - please respond! Especially multiple BMW owners!!
I have a 95 Integra which was the first new car I bought on my own after college, and still drive it. I have 130,000 miles and the engine is doing quite well, despite my occasional jaunt on the autobahn around 4500 rpm for 2~3 hours. Still, it did have its share of problems and had I not purchased an extended warranty, it would have cost me at least $2,000 more than I spent so far. I took it into dealer for maintenance every 15,000 miles, and each time it cost at least 30% to 40% more than the listed price for the service. There was always something that needed attention and it definitely was not the bullet proof Japanese reliability. This was our family's 4th Honda and the other cars also did cost somewhat.
So, now that I have 530, what do I expect? I expect I will take it in for all scheduled maintenance, plus a bit more frequent fluid change than BMW suggest. I do expect to pay a bit more on each occasion (once out of 40k coverage), but in DC area, the labor rate b/w BMW and Japanese seem to be right up there. If anything, many do comment on how simple it is to work on BMWs.
You must have heard that 530 received highest score ever from the Consumer Report. While I take it with a grain of salt, I think it does say quite a bit about the potential reliability.
You will have to pay attention to thrust arm bushings, door seals, and electrical items. I don't expect to give us major problems, but BMW sacrifice longevity of certain parts for performance and I accept that. Brake pads are soft but work great, it has the perfect (to me anyway) balance b/w handling and comfort but the said bushings WILL go out (you will notice shimmy when it does), and radiator neck is made of plastic (there is a good reason for this but I forgot) and may need replacement sooner or later.
I do not mean to scare you off, but I am giving you what I found through almost 1 year of research. I think these are acceptable maintenance items which usually do not cost much to replace. Also, I feel that these are more than acceptable trade offs for the enjoyment I get from the car.
Conclusion? If you prefer the piece of mind that your car will never let you down or inconvenience you whatsoever, go with Lexus. BMW is like a high maintenance girl friend. You need to give the attention, otherwise......
I am buying through a non-bmw dealer, so I am going to purchase a 3rd party warranty to supplement the factory warranty which will expire in December. Suggestions on 3rd party warranties are appreciated.
Did you consider BMW CPO? Did you try BMW USA's CPO locator? Any price shown for a dealer's car is negotiable. Is a soft market for luxury used RWD cars right now.
How are you paying? Cash? Financing? If financing, what kind of financing deal are you getting? BMW FS offering 3.9 percent on CPO cars. Leasing? You can lease CPOs thru BMW FS.
The only "statistic" about reliability that I ever look at--and find meaningful--is from Consumer Reports, which judges the 530i's reliability as "above avergage," which is compiled from many thousands of owners' replies. Take it for what its worth, and don't base your opinions on a handful of individuals' comments.
Just last Monday morning I was looking my 540i6 over before going to work when I noticed somehow I had gotten a big screw into my front right tire. I had taken her out on Sunday. Very slow leak. And one of the front headlights had burned out that weekend. I immediately called my local BMW dealer. Asked if they could get me in right away. I had a business trip at 1 PM. They said bring her right over. They fixed the tire (needed only repair and not replacement) and the headlight. They even washed & vac'd her. I was in and out in under an hour. The repair ticket had the word "WAITING" about a half-dozen times all over it. I left a happy camper.
dealer offered $46988 plus tax and documents, is it good?
Thanks a lot!
Best Regards,
Shipo
I called its local BMW centers both in CA and NC, only serviced light bulb and cup holder.
clean on carfax report.
compared to another offer from a BMW dealer, $37000 for 99 540iA, blue, 43000 miles, CPOed,
I would pay $10K more for this 2001 model.
is there any other way to check the history? the BMW service center said its first servce won;t come until 12000 miles.
Thanks again!!
As for checking its history, it sounds like you have already found out all there is to discover.
Good Luck.
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
first of all, I like 540, and it's almost the only car I'd like to buy for BMW.
secondly, for a brand new 540ia w/ sports, the total cost is at least $10K more.
also, I like that color, which is not offered on brand new anymore.
Here is my story, at the beginnng, I planed to buy a used 540ia under $30K. but after shopping for a while, I found I can only end up w/ a 97-98 model w/ at least 60k miles, no warrant no CPO. then I moved up a bit, and I really liked the sports packge on 99 model, the M wheel and steptronic. so the price is going up to $40K if the mileage in under 40k and if CPOed.
finally I found this car, almost new condition, loaded w/ everything except nav, and I really like the color. it's rare.
I know it sounds stupid to pay $50K for a used car, but I just can't help it.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Just wanted to add this "for the record" but the choice is clearly yours and I know ED is not for everybody.
BTW, there is a surprisingly high ratio of "signal to noise" (good info to dribble) on this board. Maybe I can contribute more after delivery.
-Bob D.
I don't know if you'll have picked up your car yet, but there is so much to do and you won't miss the car. It's kind of a "ball and chain" as in any big city. (We stayed in Munich at the end of our trip and had already dropped the car off.)
BTW, you can work directly with the Munich location of EF Harms to drop your car off on a weekend if that suits you.
Have fun!
Here is the invoice price I got from KBB:
2002 BMW 540 iA
invoice: 46750.00
Destination Charge (I can skip that by ED, right?) 645.00
Gas Guzzler • 540i 1300.00
ZSP Sport Pkg. • 540i w/Auto Trans., 2550.00
car + gas +ZSP, that would be around 50500 already, plus the $1500 over inovice according to you've said, so I can get it around $52000 before tax by ED?
what extra do I have to pay for the ED? any imports fee or sth? I still have to pay local tax, don't I?
also, I have to arrange the trip or they help me. last year I went there for a 2 weeks trip, which was great. But I'm sure what kind of trip I should have for ED.
Thanks
On 12/1/01 my wife bought her '00 323iA from a BMW dealer. Initially they didn't mention CPO issue nor do I think they were going to. It was only after I specifically brought it up and said she'd only buy a used BMW from a BMW dealer that was CPO did the issue come up. They they agreed to make it CPO. I had them write it into the contract. Car had 18,000 miles on it. I clearly remember the salesperson and later the finance person (the real closer) ask why was that important. Told 'em I wanted the car under warranty for the additional 2 years and 50,000 miles of CPO coverage that was in addition to the original 4 year/50,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. No CPO, no deal! They worked the deal.
They can't CPO the car. I checked the dealership, they are quite big one. I also checked the car carfax report, it's clean.
actually I think I can only get this price for this car in non-BMW dealers w/o CPO, otherwise this car could cost same as new one.(trust me, I know the price of CPOed BMW in my area, they are quite expensive, and the BMW dealers are arrogant).
It;s not CPOed, and still has 3 years on warranty. I don;t know how long I will keep it, maybe I will sell it then.
CPO or not, BMW dealer or not, this is the most intriguing problem for me buying this car.
sigh, nothing can be perfect
Are you paying cash? Financing thru the dealer? If you go BMW CPO, you can finance thru BMW FS. Buy or lease. Right now BMW FS offering 3.9 percent. Can you get that from your bank or credit union? Or thru the dealer?
$43,330 540iA (ED Invoice)
$02,550 ZSP
$01,300 gas guzzler
$00,xxx luxury tax (not sure how to get this)
$00,645 destination (yes, it's required)
$00,200 advertising (depends on area)
$01,500 dealer markup (or whatever you negotiate)
Total and add local taxes. Shipping, insurance in Europe, etc. are included.
-Bob D.
(NegotiatedPrice - 38000) * .03
In the case of the above car, it would be: $306.75 (assuming I keyed in the numbers correctly) ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I tried. I have been sitting in BMW sales office twice. one in Santa Clara, one in Berkerley.
They don't give up much. they asked $43000 for a 99 540iA sports w/ 28K miles, and they just sticked on it. I can't believe that. Another one in Berkerley as I mentioned, $38000 for a 99 540iA sports w/ 43K.. I offered $37000, but they didn't accept it. both are CPOed
sigh...
I will pay cash, but that 3.9% for 48 months offer is really attractive.
I applied last time I went there, not a big deal, but still a hassle.
also, I'm kind of person who don't like to mix car purchase with a vacation trip. I feel like I have to think about the car pretty much while I can't fully enjoy the vacation. plus my family are a little concerned about flying over there under the current situation :0
anyway, we'll consider ED, too. I'll try to bargin more for the red 540i in the mean time.
driving a brand new bimmer on autobann is fun. last time I tried 200+ kmph in a Saab 9-5 there, but I still got my [non-permissible content removed] kicked by numerous Audi(IMO, they are the most aggressive cars on Autobann, over BMW and Porsche)
2) Reliability -- This is a huge one for me. I've learned to really enjoy European cars (especially Audi . . . sorry), but I haven't found anyone who will praise European reliability. What many do is denegrate vehicles that actually demonstrate reliability by referring to them as "appliances." Here's my put: reliability falls into three categories: a) Infant Mortality -- anything that packs up in the first year. In this price range, you'd like to think there won't be anything here -- I'm stunned by the number of owners of cars in this class who are pleased that their vehicle has managed to get through the first 8500 (or 1200, or 835) miles -- they seem to feel that a month without a visit to the dealer is a blessing. b) Warranty Range -- the folks who rent (lease) their cars survive here, and even those who buy are still pretty happy here (hey, the manufacturer pays). Help me understand how one values the time it takes to get the car to the dealer and put up with all that then ensues. Being one of the unwashed, I'm extremely intolerant of this. I just want my car to work -- the fact that the manufacturer pays is interesting, but doesn't help with the loaner and lost time. c) Exceeds Customer Expectations -- Here's where what I consider true reliability comes into being. If the car you bought (or rented) takes you to the dealer less often, costs you less over the long term, or just pleases you beyond what you thought it would, you're going to fall into this category. These are the Toyota or Datsun weenies who brag about a vehicle that's still running after 200K (or 400K) miles. I recognize that I'm one in 12,313 (always use prime numbers) visitors to this board who even understands (let alone appreciates) this concept. When my 1993 240Z ran happily to 225K miles (this was well before Toyota & Honda taught the unwashed masses to expect this), I was ready to write a testimonial (didn't, because I was lazy then, as now). The bar is higher these days (or maybe not, for cars "in this class"), but what if someone posted in praise of a RWD sports sedan with 250+ hp and a standard transmission that ran to 200K miles with only shock/tire/filer/oil-type of replacements? Think it'd compete? Maybe we'll get a chance to find out.
3) Consumer Reports -- I bought a Lincoln LS partly because CS (isin't that an apropos acronym?) rated it highly. Moments (well, months, actually) later, they considered the LS unworthy (based on reliability. . .go figure). This stuff seems to happen regularly. I bought a Chrysler product in 1995 based on a similar CS recommendation. Anyone buying a $25 - 60K car based on CR recommendations is, to put it kindly, a naive individual. Buying trash bags based on CR data is possibly a good idea. Otherwise. . . Yeah, I'm a moron for listening to CS twice in a row. Please don't follow my example. . .even once.
4) Colours -- The BMW "Electric Red" rocks. I've jabbed the Lincoln board to no end regarding the metalflake (easier to hide defects) colours. I may end up having my LS repainted with the BMW (or similar solid) colour. On another board, someone was asking what orange-peel was. Ignorance is bliss
I mean no offense. Those on this board are aware (or should be) that the BMW is the standard. Others tilt at your windmill. Many of us choose to spend less. Bear with us.
Your car rules.