BMW 5-Series Sedans

riez · December 2002

According to the 2001 BMW Fast Facts, CP was "new for 2001". Available for 525i (incl sport wagon) and 530i.

For 525i ($1,300 MSRP):

Automatic Climate Control
10-way Power Front Passenger Seat
BMW Universal Transceiver (3 function programmable)

For 530i ($600 MSRP):

10-way Power Front Passenger Seat
BMW Universal Transceiver

For 530i there was also a "Comfort Seats and Convenience Package" ($1,800 MSRP):

16-way Power Comfort Seats
BMW Universal Transceiver

Essentially all of the CP was standard on the various 540i.

mod62 · December 2002

I just put my snows on. How do you store I store my summers. That is, do you stand them as if they were on the car or lay them on their sides. If on their sides, can you stack all four on top of each other?

snagiel · December 2002

The concern with tires is usually with getting flat spots as a result of putting disproportionate weight on only one "side" of them. But, that's a problem when there's the mass of a car bearing down on them. On their own, they're experiencing very little pressure, so I can't imagine storing them upright would cause much of a problem (especially if they're inflated). Either way should be fine, but if you're paranoid setting them on their side would be "ideal."

m1fuller · December 2002

I would like to put a cd changer in my new 530i with prem. sound/dsp. My question is, is there a changer that will hook to the stereo system without using an adapter/modulator... I want to be able to change cd's and view information throught the stereo not some external item.

Since I live in Colorado I need a good set of snow tires. What brand is the best that offer good handling with little or no road noise.

thanks

div2 · December 2002

Get the BMW Changer from http://eurobuyers.com/ - $420.00 inc installation kit and shipping. I have Michelin Artic Alpins on my wife's 528i and I have been quite pleased with them. They only have a "Q" speed rating however.

awd2003 · December 2002

I'm looking to lease a 530ia by the end of the year. The deals are too good to miss. Anyway is the Sport pkg worth the $2300 extra? I will order steptronic, premium, xenon and cold pkg.

srfast · December 2002

Firstly, you will not be paying the full $2,300, but IMHO, the SP is worth the extra $$. It improves on an already great handling car, includes nice wheels, M three spoke steering wheel, etc.

Hope this helps....JL

spyderred · December 2002

Good luck.

Spyderred

pap5 · December 2002

m1fuller -- After 3 weeks of use, including a 6" snow storm and its aftermath, I can recommend the H-rated Dunlop Winter Sport M2. It is not silent - no winter tire will be - but it's not unduly loud. A number of users on the 3 series board seem pleased with it too. Is it the best? I don't know. When I researched user ratings and reviews at tirerack.com last year, the M2 was in the top tier of available models. The clincher for me was its highly rated dry road performance, which will be the predominant operating condition here in D.C. If your car will see a lot of severe winter duty in CO, maybe something else would work better. BTW, my experience with storing them almost a year bears out snagiel's contention that upright storage (actually tilted a little to one side) should not lead to flat-spotting.

awd2003 -- If you order your 530i with the SP, it will be equipped identically to my '01. The SP helps sharpen the whole package, keeping it from being too biased toward the posh end of the scale.

habitat1 · December 2002

I never thought I would say this, but the sports package on the 5-series is not necessarily for everybody.

I've owned a 2000 540i 6-speed and currently a 2002 M5, so I'm naturally biased to a sports suspension and manual transmission. But I know of many people who aren't as enthusiastic as me and would do very well in a 530ia non-sport. Especially if they are even remotely considering an E-class, Audi A6 or other similar alternative. The standard non-sport 530i, IMO, handles and steers better than all of them. Adding the sport package will result in even better handling, but at some expense relative to ride smoothness and noise. That expense is, IMO, minor and acceptable. But if you are never going to "push" the car or drive with enthusiasm on winding roads, a standard 530ia will still give you a great handling ride and cost a bit less in tire replacement.

I used to think the sports package on a 530iA or 540iA was a waste. I've mellowed a bit on that opinion. But ask yourself the question as to why you are getting an automatic. If it's because you really don't get into the "driving" experience, then the sports package may not be for you.

bogvly · December 2002

I've been experiencing some nagging little problems as I hit the 23k mile mark and wonder if anyone else has seen the same-
The car burns about a quart of oil every 5k miles- (definitely not a leak) and it goes thru about a quart of coolant over the same period.
I 've also noted my mpg has decreased from 23 to 18 in the past month or so- it may have to do with me doing much less highway driving, but just wanted to check with this very knowledgeable board.

Thanks

joatmon · December 2002

Get this thing to the shop now! 1 qt. of oil in 5k isn't bad, but a qt. of coolant is cause for alarm.

FWIW, my wife's 86 528e hasn't varied by more than 1 MPG when driven in similar situations in 192k. Something's going on here.

Good luck,

Jack

chaseag · December 2002

I've recently purchased a 2002 525 with 13,000 miles. The car came with Continental ContiSportContact 235/45 R17 tires. I noticed the rear tires are worn more than the front tires and think maybe they should be rotated. I don't know if the tires have already been rotated or if the guy before me was heavy on the throttle, if thats possible with an auto 525. I've only owned front drive vehicles and not sure with rear driven vehicles. Which tires on a BMW wear the most and how should they be rotated?

ewoq · December 2002

Have you considered Toyo Snowprox S950? These tires were designed for the European market and are new this year in the Canadian market. They're presently being tested in the Whistler area by a car club and were tested in eastern Canada (Quebec). Word of mouth is they're very good. They are V-rated with a fairly aggressive looking tread pattern. No snow so far to check them out but the noise level is fairly low. I have no relationship with any tire/auto company and was considering Dunlop's M2's, Bridgestone LM22's, and Pirelli 240's (well rated in a German snow tire test). In any case, I purchased a set of S950 for my 540i.

bmw323is · December 2002

BMW does not recommend tire rotation (per their manual), however I don't really buy that. I also have conti sports and I rotated my tires at about 13,000 miles, front to back and vice versa. The rear tires seem to wear about 30% faster than the fronts. So, by paying for one rotation ($15), I'll likely get 5,000 extra miles on the set.

You will find differing opinions on the subject, so decide for yourself. Obviously, do not rotate if all four tires are not the exact same size. Tire life on the Conti Sports seems to be about 25,000 to 30,000 miles - less if driven agressively.

cmr530i · December 2002

My '01 530 has a bit less miles on it than yours, about 18K. I have also had to add a quart of oil about every 5K miles or so (no leaking going on either.) I have not had to add any coolant however, as you have had to do. My daily grind consists of about 10 miles of surface streets combined with 8 miles of freeway driving twice a day. So far I have not been able to break out of the 19.3 miles per gallon mileage. I know the stop-and-go is killing the mpg. How many services has your car received? I have only had one and am down to three green lights on the indicator. I agree with joatman about getting your car in to be looked at with the coolant problem you are experiencing. Hope some of this info on my car helps you with a comparison. Good luck.

dzuba · December 2002

I may have just found the right 530 for me: 2002, 10,000 miles, Great color, perfect shape, Premium Package, CWP, Xenon, Sport, and Auto for the right price IMO!! However, I have two issues?

1. Do I still want the manual? As I am not begging for it like some do, maybe the Steptronic will do it for me, but that is my problem I guess!

2. At 10k miles, the car is not CPO - and the BMW dealer wants $2000.00 to make it CPO - extended to 100K miles. I think that is to much -and if I was the dealer - I would "flip the switch", make the car CPO and we have a deal! Not sure if I want to pay a dime more to make it CPO!!

Anyone have any experience in CPO dealing in negotiations? What does it cost to have it CPO? Not much labor involved, can the dealer just do it! And could'nt I just buy an extended warranty as the car approaches 50K miles - you can do that right?

Thanks all - Merry Christmas!!

chaseag · December 2002

bmw3231s
Thanks for the info about tire rotation
I'm going to rotate to get the extra miles like you did.

riez · December 2002

dzuba... You should check out the recent detailed articles (thinking within the past 6 months) in both Bimmer and Roundel magazines on BMW's CPO program. Thinking I've read and heard that CPO'ing a car costs around $995. Both discuss horror stories (e.g., cars that dealers certified as CPO which were never inspected). Some very few of the worst abusing dealers have had their ability to sell CPO cars pulled by BMW NA until they were properly re-educated and agreed to play by the rules. BMW cannot police every dealer on every sale.

CPO rules state that dealers are NOT to offer the same car priced CPO and non-CPO. They are supposed to offer CPO cars from the get go. They should decide immediately if a car qualifies for CPO and then sell it that way only. Unfortunately, some dealers don't play by the rules. (You might ask the dealer if he is playing by the CPO rules. Or ask BMW NA if what the dealer is doing is kosher, but if you do you'll make the dealer mad.)

If you plan on owning the car well into the CPO period (time and/or mileage), then I think it is a wise investment. But if you only own a car 3 years or 36,000 miles, then CPO is not the way to go. Like any insurance policy, you might not need it. But it brings you peace of mind that your out-of-pocket maximum exposure is somewhat limited.

Like everything automotive, price is negotiable. You should check out BMW NA's CPO locator. Find another dealer with a similar CPO car. Tell your current dealer about it. Might get him to drop his price.

Both my BMWs are CPO. I'm glad I did. Going CPO has paid for itself with my 540i6. And I negotiated hard on the initial sale price on both. Think I got decent deals. Got great cars, with good warranties, for very reasonable prices.

dzuba · December 2002

Question for you: Are you saying that if the dealer did agree to CPO this car, at no additional charge to me, or even a modest "let's say" $500 - that would or should raise a red flag, since it was not CPO in the first place!!

This BMW dealer is a big outfit in the Midwest, and has a very good reputation! I'll check out the articles - thanks!!

riez · December 2002

dzuba... The March 2002 issue of Roundel has a good article titled "You Oughtta Be Certified!" I'll have to look for the Bimmer article. It came out about the same time. (Time flies. Here I was thinking I'd read the story within past 6 months or so.)

A Roundel columnist, Bill Howard, who writes "End Piece" has had at least three recent columns discussing CPO issues related to your situation. See the April, May, and July 2002 issues. For example, he writes in July 2002 that according to "Bill Bates, manager of BMW's CPO program, dealers are supposed to decide immediately if it's to be a CPO car...or not, but not dangle the car in front of the customer with both CPO and non-CPO prices. That's a no-no Bates says." Howard points out in his May column that doing things like this causes buyers to wonder what it really means to be CPO and causes them to wonder if all they are getting is an extended warranty on run-of-the-mill cars. And it makes you wonder if or how much inspecting and correcting the dealer does on the CPO car.

Too bad some dealers are willing to do these things. They undermine the CPO program.

metmdx · December 2002

Thanks for the info on the "auto door locks". Didn't catch that one in the owners manual.

As for the rattle, it's definitely not in door. It's coming from somewhere in/around/under the psgr. side dash. Will have to have dealer look at when I bring it in (only one green light left).

Thanks,

metmdx

bogvly · December 2002

Thanks to you and joatman for the information. My car has had 2 services (one earlier than the bars indicated)and is only down one bar toward the third. My daily grind is about 5 miles local driving so your mpg numbers are very helpful. I have made a service appointment for mid-January and will let you know what happens.

Thanks again

taste · December 2002

Was hoping I could get some guidance on the 1999 5 Series. I will be purchasing something new in June 2003 when my TT lease expires and would prefer to buy versus lease this next time around...so some questions.

1) 528 vs 540...love the V8 on the 540 how much of a performance difference in real world conditions or is my male ego for torque and hp getting the best of me?
2) Standard Features Difference?
3) Reasonable prices in this range?
4) Recalls on either?
5) Maintenance costs (one better than the other)?

Any insight from your own personal experience or knowledge in this area would be appreciated.

riez · December 2002

taste... What year, make and model is your current car? Your profile says you own a Honda.

Do you want an automatic or manual? The 1999 528i had a 4-speed automatic; 5-speed automatic came out the next year. The 6-speed manual on my '98 540i6 gets me about 26 mpg cruising interestate at 74 mph.

Do you want to buy CPO? If you do, that will take out much of the mechanical worries.

You should do some research. Check out info here and elsewhere about standard features and options. Plus check out reviews in various car publications. And spend some time looking at Consumer Reports repair and Intellichoice ownership cost data.

You should check out BMW NA's CPO locator. You should find a lot of 1999 and 2000 5 Series. Find some cars that interest you near you. Take 'em for good test drives. Emphasis on "good" and "drives".

I bought my '98 540i6 11/30/01. CPO with about 52,000 miles. Now has about 72,000 miles. Blast to drive and own. No major mechanical repairs. Kids broke back cupholder. Had an airbag warning light go on. Front inside door handle broke off. Both front headlights burned out at around 58,000 miles. None of these small things cost me much (though I do get a BMW CCA discount on parts from my local dealer). So far I've only had to do one oil change. She'll be coming up on a schedule 1 service in about 6,000 miles or so. I'll also likely need to get her some new tires in the next 10,000 miles or so.

If you are serious about getting a BMW, start reading Bimmer magazine and Roundel (BMW CCA) magazine. If you are a member of BMW CCA for at least a year, there is a rebate program ($500 off CPO cars).

taste · December 2002

Thanks Riez for the feedback to respond to your questions...

What year, make and model is your current car? Your profile says you own a Honda?

(taste) 2001 Audi TT Roadster. Just purchased an Ody for expanding family

Do you want an automatic or manual?
(taste) Preference is always a manual

Do you want to buy CPO?
(taste) Not sure what CPO stands for however I would presume you mean an extended warranty in which case I would answer yes. Could you explain more about CPO?

I am definitely interested in a Bimmer however with so MANY choices I will look to narrow it down over the next couple of months. I don't need to buy until early June so I have some time. The 528i is probably cheaper but I like the HP of the 540i. I am also looking at a new Infiniti G35, Acura TL - S and Lexus 430... I just need to ensure I have some size as a 3 Series would be too small for my taste with kid(s)in the back seat. Having grown up in Detroit and trading in my Audi performance and the joy of driving is essential. Just trying to find that magic spot of price/performance/useability...

riez · December 2002

taste... My wife's '00 323iA is big enough for us and our two kids (both almost teenagers). Good size and shaped trunk with the non-intrusive hinges. The E39 5 Series really doesn't have much more useable interior or trunk room. Both the E39 5 Series and E46 3 Series are space efficient cars.

If you are considering a new 2003 Infiniti G35, then you should also be considering a new 525i or say a 2000 528i or 2001 530i. Why would you want to be looking at MY 1999 BMWs?

Whatever else you do, go with the Sport Package. It is standard on the 540i6.

If you like manual transmissions, you won't go wrong on any 5 Series sedan. Even 525i Sport can be quite fun. But you'll really enjoy the 528i or 530i w/Sport Pkg. And you'd really love a 540i6.

Yes, CPO stands for Certified Pre-Owned. You should check out BMW NA's web site. Lots of details on it. Plus the national CPO locator. And you can get good financing on CPO cars thru BMW Financial.

jb_shin · December 2002

My memory is a bit fuzzy since it has been more than a year since I last compared the dimensions of E39 to MB E-class. However, I recall that they were almost within inches of each other (exterior measurements). Still, the E-class has more than 4 cu. ft. and 2 inches more leg room in the rear. I love the 5-series, but it is not as space efficient as it could be. On the other hand, I believe the E46 is, having been designed quite a years after the E39. I heard somewhere that E39 design was pretty much finished when E34 was still quite new on the market.

If you sit in the back, or put a couple of child seats there, you will notice the difference (E46 vs. E39). The measurements are almost the same, and it may just be the perception, but it is there.

taste · December 2002

Thanks (again) for the feed back all. Spam maybe killing the Internet but one can live by these boards for the best real world advice out there...as long as one can read between the lines and the occasionally jocular personal testimonies...

Ok enough of my own blather...

I simply need to do more homework and perhaps I can reconsider something in the 3-Series. I test drive of both would go a long way to getting a better feel for how much "space" premium I will get with a "5" over a "3". As for my reasoning on a MY 99 "5" series I would like to keep my out of pocket cost at ~$30K which seems about ballpark for a June 2003 purchase (though much more research is required given I have seen a range between $25K and $35K and this wasn't necessarily the a 528i versus a 540i).

I have to admit that I find nothing more frustrating than an underpowered sport sedan. That said HP alone is deceptive and one never really knows until they get a feel of the torque on acceleration and of course the obligatory highway high speed passing sample. This is one of the reasons we selected our 9-5 Turbo Six Wagon over the Audi Wagon counterpart back in 1999.

Has anyone found one year to better than another for reliability/malfunctions, features, etc...?

taste · December 2002

Well you guys obviously know your Bimmers as I just did some research on the BMW site and found out some interesting details...

BMW 540i BMW 330xi
MSRP 51,800 $36,350
Drive RWD AWD
(big plus in Chicago winter)
Seating 5 5
(now here is where it gets interesting...(inches)
Head Room (fr) 37.4 38.4
Head Room (rear) 37.2 37.5
Leg Room (fr) 41.7 41.4
Leg Room (rear) 34.2 34.4
Shoulder (fr) 56.8 54.4
Shoulder (rear) 55.9 54.2

Pretty amazing stats in that moving up from the 330ix to the 540i doesn't really buy much more room in fact it seems to be about a wash. That is a rather substantial price jump for the bigger engine and a few more standard features (but no AWD)...

riez · December 2002

jb_shin... The E39 5 Series came out in CY 1996 as a MY 1997. The E46 3 Series came out in CY 1998 as a MY 1999. The E46 wheelbase is only a few inches shorter than the E39 wheelbase, though the E46 is shorter in overall length. The E39 feels more spacious, esp. in width. And it just feels more "substantial" overall.

riez · December 2002

taste... You have plenty of time to do a lot of substantive research. But paper numbers don't always tell you the whole story. That is why you have to talk with real owners and drive them yourself. Take a lot of really good, long test drives. With the wife and kids. Thru in some luggage. See what works for you and your family.

taste · December 2002

The best approach is to collect your data and go for test drives. Combining those two critical aspects should ensure selecting the right vehicle for ones needs.

jb_shin · December 2002

Riez, I know when they were introduced in the US, I was commenting on the when they were designed. FYI, E39 model itself was introduced in 95, but did not make it to the US until 96. E46 was introduced worldwide in 98. So there were at least 3 years between the 2 design, and that is what I was trying to point out.

riez · December 2002

jb_shin... If you want a good source for a ton of infomation on all 3 Series, going back to the E21, you should get Jeremy Walton's book "BMW 3 Series Enthusiast's Companion" (Bentley Publishers, 2001). Great text, photos, production data, sales data, and specifications. You can get it at most bigger bookstores like Barnes & Noble or Borders.

As Walton points out, European-spec LHD E46 full tech specifications issued 2/98 and cars in showrooms in May, 1998. USA-spec LHD E46 in showrooms in July. British RHD E46 on sale in September.

jb_shin · December 2002

Thanks, but I already have the book, and like I said, E46 was introduced worldwide at the same time. I feel like I am hearing echos.

riez · December 2002

jb_shin... May, July and Sept are "the same time"? The difference in time between the E39 and E46 isn't a big deal. But two or three years difference between both E39 and E46 development and start of retail sales isn't "quite a few years after" (see 5271). Difference between the E39 and E60 5 Series will be quite a few years after.

billytong · December 2002

Is very difficult for me to make a decision to buy a used 2000-528ia or new 2003 honda accord V6 coupe. The price is almost the same. The only different is the 100%new and 28K used. I'm not very rich to buy a expensive car. My only concern is the average maintance costs between honda & BMW. My friend told me BMW need to fix a lot of problems when it's getting older. Is anyone can give me a good advice.

div2 · December 2002

The fact that you are even considering an Accord tells me that you will be much happier behind the wheel of the Honda. The 5er probably will cost more to run than the asian transportation appliance(though not as much as you might think). In exchange for higher operating costs the BMW will provide an unmatched fusion of performance, handling, and comfort. You don't sound willing to accept that trade off, so I strongly suggest that you pop for the Honda; it isn't a bad car mind you, but it simply isn't in the same league as the E39. Not now. Not ever.

dabimmer · December 2002

I would suggest buying the newest car you can afford.
I think you would be better served by the 2003
Honda Accord V6 for about the same price as the 98
Bimmer.I have had mine for two years now and have
had no maintainance issues with it, not one!! I had
a 91 Accord we sold with 75,000 mi. a year ago and
never had any problems with it at all.It was a very
reliable car for 10 years and did everything it was
supposed to do on the road albeit not an exciting car
to drive like the bimmer. I am totally spoiled by this
car and I don't think I could ever own anything else.

riez · December 2002

billytong... If the comparison is to a loaded V6 Accord COUPE, why not consider a 3 Series COUPE? Comparing coupe to sedan seems odd. New or late model CPO? You should check out BMW NA's CPO locator. Bet you can find some nice 2001 3 Series. With CPO you get the remainder of bumper-to-bumper warranty and free maintenance plus the extra 2 yr/50K CPO warranty. Great way to buy a nice late model used car. And you can get some nice financing deals from BMW Financial.

rtboon · December 2002

What are the most common reasons for this light to come on? Just lit up on my 97 528i and still runs fine.

Thanks
Bob

97 528i
99 328i

div2 · December 2002

The easiest thing to check is a loose or missing gas filler cap. Absent that you will need to use a code reader such as the Peake unit. I have one, and it's a steal at $150.

mseals · December 2002

From what I have seen, both cars are reliable. That being said, the Accord is a new model so it is hard to tell what little bugs might come up. I just sold my 2000 Civic Si and bought a 1998 528i 5sp. I haven't had it long, but I can tell you the maintenance things is a little off. Maybe people over look it but most cars have scheduled maintenance, it is just that people don't get it done. The Civic had what is comparable to the schedule 1 and schedule 2 of the BMW. The first one was $220 and the second one is like $440. Consider that I have read that the 528 schedule 1 can be done ofr $189 from an independent European mechanic shop and the schedule 2 can be done for $500. So lets compare:

BMW Honda
$189 $220 schedule 1
$500 $440 schedule 2
$689 $660 total

These are over about a 60-80k miles period there, not including oil changes which are much further apart for BMW so they break about even, the BMW should cost only $29 more. That being said, there is more likely hood that something might go bad on the BMW, mind you slightly. There are so many things to also consider, the Accord will get better gas mileage and will be faster. Wow, that is a lot to think about, but overall, it will all boil down to what you want in a car. Sport Coupe, or Sport Sedan. I don't think maintenance will be much differnt. Now mind you , those Honda prices could be a little or a little less at the dealership or a mechanics. Parts for the Honda are not much cheaper, if they are cheaper at all. The only thing that I have seen that cost more are body parts, and that should be covered by your insurance

billytong · December 2002

My friend lease a 2000 528ia with Premium package, 6 CD, moon roof, tiptronic, xenon light, 17" rim & 4-16"rim & winter tires will be expired in the end of Feb 2003. The transfer ownership from him to me it costs US$400 plus extended warranty US$1800. The estimated final mileage will be around 28750 miles. Is it worth to buy this car? residue value US$23,200+15% sales taxes in canada.
So the final amount that I have to pay is US$25,500+15% taxes. Remarks: Excellent conditions

billytong · December 2002

It's anyone know that company in Vancouver Canada? Can I trust this company offerrd by BMW Canada? Is it necessary to buy a extended Warranty for 2000-528ai?

joatmon · December 2002

Here's my experience with BMW ownership. If you plan for preventive maintenance(PM), a BMW is a great, reliable car.

My wife wanted to trade her '80 Accord for a new one in '86. She didn't like the seating position of the '86 as well as in the '80. So, we bought an '86 528e. 192k later, it runs great. We would have gone through 2 or 3 Accords in that time. I believe the cost to be about the same either way we would have gone.

In a typical 4 year cycle, here's what we spend on PM; year 1- ~$500; year 2- ~$1000, year 3 - ~ $500, year 4 - ~$2000. This, of course, averages out to $83 a month. You can't buy must of a car for that.

BMW's are designed and built to last a long time if properly maintained.

In almost 17 years, this car has failed to go when asked only 3 times, once a blown thermostat, and twice, the battery died. The battery showed signs of failing both times, but I tried to squeeze a little extra time from them. My fault. So actually, without any warning, once in seventeed years. Oh, it went through the big maintence and got a new battery about a year ago, so I'm looking at 3 more year without little expense. Still get 28 MPG.

Good luck,

Jack

cdnpinhead · December 2002

I'm still waiting for a message like yours from the Audi crowd. Apparently all of them lease, while only most of the BMW people do.

I also enjoy getting lots of mileage out of my vehicles and have been following the German boards to see who's got some real-world long-mileage experience.

I enjoy driving German cars, but am leery of the reliability.

Continued good luck with your car.

riez · December 2002

cdnpinhead... You should read Roundel magazine (BMW CCA). Lots of letters, articles, and tech advice related to your concern. You might contact the nearest BMW CCA local chapters. If they are anything like my chapter, then there will be owners with 10-20 years of ownership with the same car. I see some at our local chapter's annual picnic and other events. The proud owners are more than happy to show their cars, share their experiences, talk about preventitive maintenance, repairs, mods, etc. Is always nice to see some early 1970s Bavaria or 2002 or a rare manual transmission 7 series from late 1970s or early 1980s.

But not sure what conclusions can be drawn. When you look at today's electrical and electronic systems, safety systems, complex amenities, etc. and then compare to a 30-year-old 2002 or Bavaria, you wonder if today's complex cars will age as gracefully. Much harder to DITY. Will all the parts still be available. So you better have a great local BMW dealer or independent garage that specializes in BMWs.

joatmon · December 2002

Allow me to comment on that. The shift mechanism on wife's '86 528e broke recently. I've repaired it in the past, but now the lockout mechanism is inoperable. I called BMW parts and was informed that there were 2 different ones in use in 86. One in stock; one had to be ordeded. One I needed wasn't in stock, but I'm amazed that they gave me an answer in less than a minute. It seems as though they pride themselves in keeping the older ones on the road.

The old '86 is in great shape and it often get love notes from the mechanics when in for service. I do fell that BMW service is worth the price.

Jack

BMW 5-Series Sedans

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