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BMW 5-Series Sedans

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, I know that there is a display that tells me that a door is not completely closed, I too have kids and see it, a lot, however, now that I am pressed to say what it is, I cannot remember. We are in NYC this weekend in the "Green Monster" (aka. our ubiquitous Green Dodge Grand Caravan), so I will check when we get back, and if you answer hasn't been answered yet, I will post what I see.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • karmikankarmikan Posts: 116
    There's an orange pictogram of your car located in a rectangular display just below your speedo. It will show if a door isn't closed or if a bulb is out. It only works if your ignition is on.
  • warthogwarthog Posts: 216
    I'm a recent 530ia owner (2 mos.), coming from a Chrysler 300M. The Chrysler had alloy wheels with 4w disks, and never had any visible brake dust. The Chrysler, by the way, was as renown for short braking distance as the bimmer. The BMW is, as we all know, plagued with the stuff. Why?
  • bmwgurubmwguru Posts: 51
    BMW uses a softer pad and disk than the industry norm. It offers superior braking performance with less fade. Drive it hard all day and the brakes perform consistantly. BMW's retain less energy in the braking system than other cars. The trade-off is the amount of brake dust produced.
  • george94george94 Posts: 75
    In my package, MY03, SP and PP, the display under speedo says "door open". It doesn't say which door is open..
    Karmikan, yes, I saw the picture in the manual. However, I don't have it in my car. Not certain why..
  • karmikankarmikan Posts: 116
    Interesting, thought the graphic was standard because it didn't seem to be included in any options packages.

    Sorry I can't help
  • srfastsrfast Posts: 138
    The E39 Premium Package includes the MID (Multi Information Display) under the odometer/trip odometer. The pictogram is on the non PP cars. MID will provide status in words and the pictopgram will use the "car" graphic.

    Hope this helps...JL
  • cretecrete Posts: 105
    I'm a new owner MY03 540a and for the moment have two simple questions. I have to load the nav dvd disk, but the label on the disk says it is "Mini". Is this still the correct DVD to use in my 540. Or is this only for the Mini cars?

    Are sheepskin wash mitts good to use on the car?
    I'm in the Northern Calif area
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    I am quite certain that you can use the "MINI" disc. MINI shares the same hardware and probably the same OS as well.

    Most of the manufacturers use Navtech map data and simply compile it differently so that the disc suits their company. For example, only listing BMW dealers on BMW discs, whereas if you had an aftermarket. VDO disc, you can access any one of the number of dealers, among other things.
  • dfk2dfk2 Posts: 1
    I am going to look at a 2000 528i, the current owner shows the car as having cold weather, heated steering wheel, moonroof, xenons and the premium package. Does anyone know what what included in the 2000 premium package? Is it the same package as the new 03's or did it include more?
  • wabendswabends Posts: 102
    Thanks for the information. It will come in handy when I go to the dealership next week.

    Regards,
    Wabends
  • ksqrdksqrd Posts: 21
    wabends: You're very welcome. Good luck making a deal--I'm sure you'll be very pleased with the car if you end up purchasing it!

    srfast: My MY01 SP/PP car has no MID, so I'm not sure if this became part of the premium package in '02 or later. I thought that the premium stereo is also a factor in determining which cars have the MID (mine is the non-DSP model). Can anyone else clarify this point?
  • karmikankarmikan Posts: 116
    I have PP on my 03 530i that includes DSP but I don't have MID.
  • srfastsrfast Posts: 138
    My US spec 2003 530i with PP does not not have DSP or the pictogram. The US PP includes the upgraded OBC and from my experience, the alphanumeric display. All the vehicle status information is displayed in the message area directly below the odometer & external temp displays. The two different types of instrument clusters can be seen on page 15 & 17 of the 2002/2003 E39 Owner's Manual. The owner's manual can be downloaded (PDF) from the BMW website if needed.

    BTW, the MID (Multi-Information Display) is part of the radio station display area (page 87). I believe the MID is part of the upgraded OBC.

    Hope this helps..JL
  • ksqrdksqrd Posts: 21
    Mine is also a US spec MY01 E39 (with SP/PP) and has a pictogram and no MID, so I think the upgraded OBC was new to the PP in MY02.

    Consistent with this notion is this excerpt from the new-cars.com review for the MY02 E39: "Finally, the Premium Package jams in leather upholstery...and an upgraded on-board computer."

    Full summary here:
    http://www.new-cars.com/2002/bmw/bmw-530i-sedan.html
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Air conditioning (automatic or manual) works by cooling the air. Then, to moderate the cooling, some heat can be added by the heater. Modern cars usually cycle the compressor to provide enough cooling to keep the evaporator cold, but do not run the compressor continously unless it is very hot. When it is cold out (near freezing or below) the compressor will shut off even in "A/C mode". The automatic system just has a temperature sensor to decide if more or less heat is required to keep the car's interor at the set temperature. The fan speeds are governed by how far off the mid-range you are. How the A/C mode (compressor) gets turned on varies from car to car. In my car pushing the "auto" button turns on the fully automatic mode with compressor. I'm not sure how BMW does it or even if there really is a "fully automatic mode" in a BMW.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I am not sure where you get your information, but I am guessing your source is not quite in tune with reality. On all of my (and my wife's) last seven cars (3-Mopar, 1-VW, 1-Mazda & 2-BMW), when the A/C button is engaged, regardless of the OAT, the A/C compressor does in fact engage. Once the temperature of the Evaporator reaches a pre-determined temperature, the compressor will then start cycling to keeping the evaporator within the factory spec range. This is done so that the air in the interior of the car is dried as it circulates through the HVAC system, thus eliminating the interior glass fogging problem common under many environmental conditions.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Well, I don't know how BMW does it. But I do know that my cars do not run the compressor when it is below freezing. Even in defrost mode!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Are you absolutely sure? There are plenty of situations that can cause interior fogging of the windows even when the OAT is below freezing.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo

    P.S.
    What do you drive?
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I can't say what BMW does. However, think about this: if you keep the evaporator below freezing, what will happen to the moisture that condenses out of the air?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Good point, however, I never said that the evaporator was kept below freezing all of the time (or for that matter at anytime), that would be a disaster even in the summer time. As the interior air in the car circulates through the HVAC system, the air itself will remain below freezing (assuming a cold start and an initial OAT and cabin temperature that is below freezing) only as long as it takes for the engine to warm up and to heat the cabin enough to bring it above freezing. While I do not know the specific ranges that the various manufacturers use, my guess is that the upper threshold is somewhere above the freezing mark, with the lower being at or below freezing.

    FWIW, there have been plenty of times in my life where I have gotten into a car drenched to the skin from melting snow, sleet, freezing rain or even sweat from a long winter time run or cross country skiing workout, and had the interior glass fog up, even though the OAT was well below freezing. All that is necessary to clear the glass fast is to engage the A/C system. If I found out that there was a manufacturer that prevented the compressor from engaging below freezing, I would immediately eliminate that line of vehicles from future consideration.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Unless you allways run in recirculate mode (not a good idea), the outside air will have at most a relative humidity of 100%. So if the outside air is at freezing (32F or 0C) and the defroster warms it to say 80F, the relative humidity is at most 20%. Now if the air is more like 100F coming out of the defroster, the relative humidity is 10%. This should be dry enough to evaporate water off the glass.

    Now if the evaporator reduces the temperature to 20F, and the defroster is at 100F, the relative humidity would be 5%. This is only a 5% increment.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I (almost) never use "Recirc" mode. Consider this; last December, I drove to my favorite running trail on a zero degree Fahrenheit day and parked the car. I then headed out for a 10 mile trail run, and during the run it started to snow heavily. Due to the intensity of the snow, my run took me almost 90 minutes, and my car, cabin and engine and all, was quite cold by the time I returned to it. I on the other hand was very hot and wet, so I placed a towel over my leather seats, and got in. Within a matter of moments, I had "Steamed" up the entire interior of the car, and no amount of "Full Heat" (sans A/C) from an engine that has a core temperature WAY below freezing, was going to clear the glass. I simply pressed the A/C button, and "Presto", within 15-20 seconds, the glass was clear enough for me to start driving home, and within a minute, even the rear door glass was clear.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mukmanmukman Posts: 4
    I've had my new 530 a little over 3 weeks now and love the car. I am looking at tinting the windows (since it is gray with black leather) to help keep the car cool in summer. Is there any specific type of tint that works best with the car? Also, here in VA the legal tint is 50% front windows, and 35% back. Is this a noticeable difference where the front windows will always look lighter than the back ones at all times? Any one have any thoughts?

    Thanks
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I am sure that what you did was to select defrost, which most likely "turned the compressor on". At least that is how my system works. However, that does not mean that the compressor is running. If your car was sitting in a garage and warm, then yes it will run. But at zero F air will hold very little water, about 1/4 as much as at freezing. So if you heater was able to pump out 60F air, it would have a relative humidity of less than 10%. This should have cleared off the windows. What you need to do the next time your car has been sitting out in the cold all day is to check this out.

    There are two critical things to keep the windows from fogging: One is to heat them up and the second is to reduce the inside humidity enough so they won't fog. The defroster does both: - 1) it heats the windshield by blowing warmed air on it - 2)the warmed air from outside will have a lower humidity which will help evaporate the moisture. Now the heater will bring in dry outside air and heat it also reducing the humidity in the car. This does take a bit of time. But if you (and other passengers) are wet, they humidify the car as you know.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I am sure that what you did was to select defrost, which most likely "turned the compressor on".

    No, I turned on the A/C. In fact, given that the "Defroster" on both my 1999 328i and my 2002 530i was/is so aggressive, I have only used that mode a few times in the last four years. I find it much more comfortable to simply direct the airflow toward the glass (a mode that BMW thoughtfully includes that is separate and distinct (read mutually exclusive) from the defrost mode) and turn on the A/C.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    Whatever. What you need to understand is that condensation forms on the windows when the dew point in the car is higher than the temperature of the glass. So to get the water off the glass and keep it off you must either warm up the glass or reduce the dew point in the car. (I am assuming that you understand what a dew point is)

    If the temperature is below freezing outside and your A/C runs the compressor, your evaporator is going to have ice build up on it. I assume that your engine compartment heat is isolated to a large extent from the outside air inlet to the passenger compartment. This implies that even though the compressor may shut down, the ice will not melt. If the system goes into a recirculate mode, (with the passenger compartment warmed up), the ice could be melted, however, the drain hole will be below freezing and how will the water run out?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I do in fact understand all of that, however, it seems that the point that you are missing is that the evaporator is only going to be below freezing only until the air circulating through it warms it up enough to bring it above freezing (regardless of whether you are in Recirc mode or not), and what little ice that forms (even at 100% humidity, zero degree air dosen't carry a whole lot of water) will eventually melt off. When it melts off, and most likely the drain hole will freeze shut, but so what, once again, we are not talking about a whole lot of water here, and a night in the 40 degree garage will take care of that.

    The point I am trying to make is that it is both feasible and beneficial to allow the compressor to run when the OAT is below freezing, and fortunately, every A/C equipped car I have had for the last 20 years allows the compressor to engage below freezing.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • msealsmseals Posts: 257
    I have been reading your guys post with quite interest. I find things like this curious because for some stupid reason I wonder how things like this work. That being said, maybe there is an engineer who could better explain how the defogging of windows works in cars. I can't imagine that BMW has come up with a way to do it any different from any other car. Maybe I might check on the how things work site to see if something is out there.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    What we really need is for someone with the BMW repair manual (if one is available) to check what it says about the A/C system. BMW cannot depend on owners putting their cars in a warm garage everynight.
  • msealsmseals Posts: 257
    I hear you on that one, but since my garage is detached, in the cold michigan winters, I am pretty sure the temperature gets below zero in the garage as well. That being said, I did read something on www.howstuffworks.com. They didn't have anything as specific as how a car defogger works, but they did have the principles of how a dehumidifier works. From that I have derived some theories on how it might work based on my minimal knowledge of cars and HVAC systems in them. I believe that it is possible to place the AC compressor away from the actual condensor coils. That being the case, the explanation stated that a home dehumidifier has a hot and cold coil. As the air is ran across the cold coil the moisture in the are is removed, then it is drawn across the warm coil to heat the aid back up to room temperature. If we can use this same principle in a car then it is possible that once a cars cold coils are cold that the car simply needs to run the in cabin air through these coils and then across the heating coils to bring the air back to in-car temperature if not warmer based on your temperature settings. If the car is not warmed up yet, I would assume that the air would either be cold, just like if you turn the heat on full blast when you first get into a car in the winter. That being said, we can all agree that since these coils will probably be cold and stay cold longer in the winter time without the use of the compressor, it can be possible that the compressor works far less in the winter trying to defog car windows than it does in the summer trying to cool a car down. Does this make sense to you guys? I am just grabbing at air here but I thought I would give it a try.

    Mark
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    In a car's A/C system, the compressor runs off the belt attached to the "front" of the engine in general. The condensor coils are in front of the radiator. The evaporator (cold coils) are in the duct work that brings air into the car from outside, before the heater core. In my car (I think) all of the air comes in fresh unless it is in recirculate mode. So when the compressor is on, the cold coils will remove water from the air coming over the coils. Most people will warm the interior air up to the 60's F for comfort. The windows will be somewhere between the interior temperature and the outside temperature. So they will "fog" up if there is enough humidity inside the car. In general if the air inside the car has come from outside the car and no additional water is added, then no fog should form if the inside of the car is warmer than outside. However, wet people inside the car will add water to the air inside the car, causing the windows to fog.
  • texbmwtexbmw Posts: 25
    This may be heresy on this board, but the performance statistics on the Lincoln LS V8 with sport package seem pretty impressive. Does anyone have comments or reasons why the Lincoln is a bad purchase as compared to a 540i? Thanks!
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I went to the Public Library (the University Library wasn't helpful) and found a Mitchel handbook on A/C repair/service for domesitic and imported cars. The bottom line is that there is an ambiant temperature switch that shuts off the compressor when outside air temperture drops to something like 32F (the range is 30-40 F). So, shipo, unless you can find a BMW manual to the contrary (which is possible), I think that below freezing the compressor is off.
  • msealsmseals Posts: 257
    Pardon my ignorance, but what are the condensor coils for? I understand that the evaporator coils are to remove moisture out of the air and and make it colder, but if that occurs before the heater coils, which makes sense, then that will take moisture out of the car. If someone has wet clothes or brings moisture in the car in their clothing then the air must either be heated or recycled so that you are constantly placing dry are in the car to absorb the moisture.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    The compressor compresses the freon (R134A in new cars) into a high pressure fluid that is hot. The condensor cools the hot fluid. Actually the compressor doesn't quite compress the gas into a fluid - it comes out of the compressor as a hot gas and when it cools in the condensor, it is a hot fluid. By the time it gets to the end of the condensor it is cooled down to ambient (more or less) temperature and then is metered into the evaporator as a fluid. But the evaporator is at a lower pressure (since the compressor is sucking on it), so the fluid evaporates which takes heat out of the evaporator and the air surrounding it. So the air flow through the evaporator supplies the heat to evaporate the freon. Or the freon evaporating cools the air coming into the car.

    Now if the air is cooled enough, (below the dew point) the moisture in the air will condense onto the evaporator and drip off (or freeze on). Actually if the evaporator is colder than the dew point of the air, water will condense on it (or freeze). As long as the outside air temperature is above freezing (and the compressor cycles on and off), water freezing onto the evaporator will melt periodically.
  • cretecrete Posts: 105
    When I had my acura legend and the windows fogged up, I turned on the "Defroster" button and the following happened;
    -- "Auto" A/C button lit up and came on
    -- Fan was blowing at a high speed.
    -- The air recirculate button light goes out meaning the vents where opened.
    -- Within 1-2 minutes the windows cleared.

    One thought about the rear window fogging over? When you engage the rear window defroster only, and with most cars they have the wires or lines on the window that heat up for defrosting the glass, there can't be a compressor going on just for that. It is just heating the glass although it does take much longer to clear then the front.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    When the windshield defrost button is selected, the A/C compressor on switch in the cabin is turn on. However, the ambient temperature switch can overrule this selection.

    The rear window defogger works by warming the rear window (electric heating) enough to evaporate the water on it. This will only work if the cabin air has been dehumidified enough.

    You dehumidify air by: 1) removing water from it which can be done by letting it flow over cold coils, or: 2) warming the air to a higher temperature. So if the outside air temperature is below freezing, probably you will heat it up to something like 60-70 F. This will change the relative humidity from 100% at 30F to around 30% or less at higher temperatures. Note that the windows will warm up some if the inside of the car is warmer than outside. But blowing warm air over the windshield will warm it up so water doesn't condense on it.

    If the outside temperature is warm - say 60 and raining. Then the relative humidity at 70 is 70%. This is humid. And if the passengers are wet, the humidity will increase to 80% and the windows will fog. So running the A/C will take water out, probably reducing the dew point to 50 or so. That means the relative humidity is around 50% (perhaps less). If people are wet, they will increase it some, but with the fan bringing in dried air, hopefully things will dry out.
  • cretecrete Posts: 105
    On my new 2003 540i the service interval display shows all yellow indicators. I'm only at 300 miles and in the owner's manual (p.84) it says for yellow lamps that maintenance is due.

    I know this can't be due for maintenance, any new 540 owners out there show indicators other than in yellow?

    Also, in my area SF bay area, the radio has a lot of static reception on a few stations. I read in the mods board that on '03 5 series the Sirus Satellite radio is a factory option and the vehicle can be pre-wired for it. If true, has anyone tried this and how much better is the reception?
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    Are you sure you're seeing yellow? To my knowledge, there should be four green diodes, and one yellow and one red. The word "OILSERVICE" will also appear shortly after the yellow lights up. Nevertheless, have the dealer look at it to make sure the computer is functioning properly.

    As for radio reception, FM is actually fairly good in the 5-series, but AM is rather weak. Yes, I believe the entire '03 BMW line is pre-wired for auxiliary input, with the intent of accepting Sirius satellite radio. But I'm not sure whether dealers actually have these units or not yet. Be sure to ask, since I haven't heard about anyone saying they have it.
  • rweiss2rweiss2 Posts: 6
    I really want to make the move to the 525 or 530, but I am worried about rear wheel drive and its safety on rain slicked roads or snow. Soemone who has an older 1994 3 series and a new 330xi says he would never buy rwd again in BMW. Too many "spinouts" in bad weather. Would the newer models be safer in bad weather? Would I be white knuckling it down the road at 55-60 on a wet night? Would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
  • seivwrigseivwrig Posts: 388
    I don't drive a 5er. But with a 3er, I have not had any problem with rain at high speed. I have driven the autobahn at 90 mph and the M4 motorway (UK) at 80 mph in the rain. No problems. While driving on oil slick roads, the DSC kicks in when necessary. I think if the BMW did not have the DSC, I probably would get good tires. I have only owned RWD cars and I think that the tires can make the difference. A 5er should have similar qualities. I have come to believe that sport equates to RWD. I cannot think of any FWD race cars, but then again, I am not think too hard.
  • george94george94 Posts: 75
    this past Sunday the whole family got a ride in my new 530, PP, SP, 5 speed from Boston to Connecticut. I was actually looking forward to this Mother's Day as it introduced an opportunity to leave our 2000 Honda Odyssey minivan with our yellow lab behind and take my car instead. What a blast this was. My average speed was 79 m/h during this trip with 28 miles/gallon. Not too bad for car with barely over 1200 miles. I realized this car is truly meant to be driven in Germany at high speeds w/o being afraid of being pulled over. I can't tell you how many times my wife told me I would be in trouble if I got pulled over..
    I am envious of twisty west coast roads and Germans autobahns.
    ..g
  • srfastsrfast Posts: 138
    as much as your friend claims he does. He needs to learn how to drive appropriately in bad weather/road conditions. I've driven all types of cars, both race and street in all types of track/road & weather conditions and I can tell you, it ain't the type of vehicle you're driving that keeps you on the track/road, it's the driver. Vehicle technology/design does not replace/compensate the need to use common sense and good judgment. Rant over.

    If you want a 525i/530i, go out and buy it. When winter comes, invest in a set of good winter tires and you will be fine. I've owned two E36 325i's and currently own a 2003 530i with SP/PP/CWP and think it is one of the finest cars on the road. Buy what your heart wants, drive it intelligently and you'll be fine.

    Hope this helps...JL
  • rweiss2rweiss2 Posts: 6
    I appreciate the feedback, I really do and it makes me feel better. Common sense says the driver controls the car..my intuition is to buy this car. I'm very close!! Need to find a good price. Thanks again
  • snagielsnagiel Posts: 750
    srfast is correct, to an extent. There is no substitute for an alert and educated driver.

    However, cars and equipment do vary, and their performance in hazardous conditions will vary as well. But, you're mixing things up here, so let's break it down:

    Accelerating: Assuming a front-engined car, FWD has a slight advantage over RWD in initial traction, since there's more weight on the driving wheels. But, this only applies to the moment of accelerating from a stop. Very quickly, the balance of the car's mass shifts to the back, which favors RWD. The harder you accelerate, the more the rear wheels are important. If the road is slick, it's best to accelerate slowly, which will keep the weight balance close to static and minimize the importance of the driving wheels. At this point, it comes down to tires. If accelerating out of a turn, a RWD car is more likely to spin (oversteer) on slippery surfaces, but proper traction control (like the BMWs have) will effectively prevent this, and good tires will minimize this as well.

    Braking: It's all about the tires, ABS, and dynamic stability control. Drive wheels are insignificant.

    Cruising: It's all about the tires, and dynamic stability control. Drive wheels are practically insignificant. The danger here is hydroplaning, which can be avoided with good tires (summer tires are generally best, somewhat ironically) and moderate speed.

    You may have picked up on the lowest common denominator here: tires. It's hard to overstate their importance, since they're all that sits between you and your passengers, a two-ton machine, and everything else. If you live in a snowy climate, get winter tires and swap them out seasonally. Otherwise, 3-season (aka summer, performance) tires should be fine. Drive safely.
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    I was watching "Fifth Gear", a car review program on UK TV. They tested the new 530i. The reviewer said something along the line of, "Do you want to say to your friends that your girl friend is ugly but really smart, or that she looks like a super model, but not so smart?" He did like the Active Steering, Adaptive Headlights, HUD, and the driving dynamic. Not to mention the climate control system that actually adjusts humidity to optimum level. In his words, "BMW once again comes out ahead of the competition in the segment". Although it was not mentioned, the 530i seemed to have the same I-6 engine as in the E39.

    He ended the review by saying, "In this case, the ugly wins"
  • wabendswabends Posts: 102
    Given the choice of a MY 01 530i (PP, CWP, Xe and AT)with 19000 miles ($32K)registered as a corporate fleet car and a similar car with 21000 miles but owned by original buyer ($34.5K), which of these two would be a better buy?

    Secondly, is the rain sensing feature included in the MY 01 PP?

    Thanks in advance for your tips!
  • msealsmseals Posts: 257
    The 5er is the most stable car I have ever driven in rain or snow at normaly speeds. When I say normal, I am basing that on the conditions while driving the car. I live in Michigan and we see the whole array of different weather conditions. I was driving in a freezing rain storm at highway speeds with not problem at all. I have also driven in 6-10 inches of snow with no problem at all as long as I kept me speeds reasonable based on the conditions. That being said, I have the 15" all season Dunlop Sport A2 on all fours. I plan on purchasing some summer tires and rims next month once the rainy season is over here. I can only imagine how good the car handles with snow tires.
  • cretecrete Posts: 105
    I'm sure I'm seeing yellow indicators on the display but no text is showing. I just have the yellow diodes and at the end the bottom part is gone with only a line on the very top. I'm going to head over to the dealer and see if there is a problem. I've hit the check control button and it displays "Check Control OK"
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