Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Lexus LS 400/LS 430

1…159160161163165

Comments

  • mikez511mikez511 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your information. I registered in lexus driver website and downloaded the manual. The I/O button is not standard lexus button as shown in the manual.
    It has the same looks as the picture link :
    http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/ls430/152164d1252789355-the-diy-nav-- display-unlock-bluetooth-unlock-and-nav-destination-input-while-driving-remove-1- 0.jpg

    I found the picture from lexus club forum
    http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls430/452376-the-diy-nav-display-unlock-bluetoot- h-unlock-and-nav-destination-input-while-driving.html

    I have no clue what the button is about. Maybe someone did the same thing as the forum post. Why did someone unlock the bluetooth/nav ? What is the purpose ?
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    ... aftermarket modification is done by some to interrupt the VSS input to the navigation/bluetooth system to enable some of the locked out features while the vehicle is moving.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah....a HACK! Now it makes sense. So it allows you to program while driving?
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    Normally, the navigation system locks out the ability to program a destination if the vehicle is moving. When the vehicle speed signal is interrupted, it thinks the vehicle has stopped and thus a person can program in a new destination.

    Of course, when the signal is restored, the navigation system has to update its new location, leading to a jump in location. Some versions of the software occasionally have problems, but mostly it is able to deal with the conflicting location information.
  • acco20acco20 Member Posts: 211
    mike, would you please list the actual lexus site that you visited to download the manual? I would like to do that also. Thank you.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    On-board diagnostic code 41. Supposed to be an indication that some fault that was recorded was intermittent and/or has now been fixed. Dealer service manager said he reset the code but it came right back...???

    Tricky sequence to reset myself so I haven't been successful.

    Does anyone know if the airbag will still trigger with only this code..??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Code 41 is set whenever there has been a diagnostic code in the airbag system. If the proper code clearing procedure has not been met, Code 41 will always be displayed. It is possible that Code 41 is displayed as a result of a center airbag sensor malfunction.

    * After repair of the trouble areas, the diagnostic code retained in the ECU memory must be cleared out by removing the EFI fuse (2OA) from J/B No. 2 for 10 seconds or more, with the ignition switch OFF.

    HINT: Cancellation can also be done by removing the battery negative (-) terminal, but other memory systems (clock, etc.) will also be cancelled out.

    * If it is necessary to work on engine components requiring removal of the battery terminal, a check must first be made to see if a diagnostic code has been recorded.
    * After cancellation, road test the vehicle to check that a normal code is now read on the "CHECK" engine warning light.
    * If the same diagnostic code appears, it indicates that the trouble area has not been repaired thoroughly.

    NOTE: code 41 appears in a number of different systems of the car, not just airbag system. So the tech has to be in the right system. "41" can also mean deffects in ABS or Height Control.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I was running the onboard diagnostic and the airbag light "blinked" 41.

    I had switched out the instrument panel and apparently the air bag system had detected an open indicator bulb.

    Finally cleared the fault by ignoring the shop manual instruction insofar as timing sequence. Says 1.0 seconds +0.5 seconds in each position when what really worked was less than 0.5 seconds.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes I've often found that some of these reset instructions are a bit lame. Anyway, let's keep our fingers crossed. :shades:
  • macdawgmacdawg Member Posts: 6
    First, Lately my '95 LS 400 has been stalling out on me as I pull off of freeways, decelerating. First happened days after I had gotten my oil changed at Oil Changers and they had replaced PCV valve and had me restart the car before they had put valve back. Ooops! Don't know if that's related, but it didn't used to do it. Never does it in around town driving, only when I've been on freeway, so I'm wondering if has to do with something heating up? Always starts back up, immediately. Any ideas?

    Second, when I was researching buying the car, the only "drawback" I read was it didn't handle that well in wintry conditions. Got first hand experience of that yesterday, when I spun it out on I-5, Siskiyou Summitt in Oregon, in very light snow at 60 mph. Hair ball stuff. Rear end slid out on me, and then I'm doing a 540 in the middle of the freeway. I remember thinking, damn I'm surprised the car didn't roll (such was the force of the spin) which I guess speaks to the "good" handling of the car, which I've also been told about.
    Any tire suggestions? Studded snow tires? (they're legal here in Oregon). I've got some Cooper all-weather on my rear tires, but they didn't do me much good yesterday, unless I should have them on front, too, to keep things "balanced".

    thanks for any suggestions on either of these items.
    -mac
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Nothing, absolutely NOTHING, beats being well aware of roadbed conditions, even POTENTIAL roadbed conditions, and driving accordingly. I like to hope you didn't have CC enabled but it sure sounds so.
  • rennyboschrennybosch Member Posts: 329
    CC = Cruise Control???
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    yes.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    '92 LS400, 160,000 miles, has been slowly losing coolant.

    Finally found a crack in the coolant reservoir near the coolant level sensor. I assume that normally the coolant never rises high enough to leak out this crack...but...

    Is it possible that because with the crack the system cannot be pressurized and the coolant is boiling off..??
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    What is the rate of coolant loss? Are there any other issues, like white smoke or a sweet smell to the exhaust?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    No signs of steam/vapor from the exhaust even with a HARD coastdown, extreme intake manifold vacuum, in 1st gear. No smell of anti-freeze except when expansion tank was overfilled and seepage from the crack result in odor.

    If the system can't be pressurzed will the coolant actually boil...off..??
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    wwest: If the system can't be pressurzed will the coolant actually boil...off..??

    The short answer is yes. Pressurization is used to elevate the boiling point of the coolant, and a return to atmospheric pressure due to a cracked reservoir or failed radiator cap will reduce it. This can lead to a slow loss of volume of coolant. It will also reduce the total heat transfer capacity of the system from the block to the radiator and under severe service conditions can lead to overheating as well.

    PS: More details here:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiling-point_elevation

    and here:

    http://chestofbooks.com/food/science/Experimental-Cookery/The-Boiling-Point-Of-W- - ater-And-Solutions.html
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is there a pressure cap on your reservoir?
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    On an LS, I think no, but some other makes do have pressurized reservoirs.

    I do not know about Toyota Red/Pink formulations, but a glycol based coolant will have an accelerated evaporative loss if there is a crack in an unpressurized reservoir.

    Hence I go back to my original question to wwest: What is the volume of the loss?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    German cars generally have pressurized reservoirs, yes.

    Maybe the car is just overheating?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The expansion tank cap is rated at 17lbs.

    I sealed the crack with epoxy and if it holds we will see...

    The engine coolant temperature gage is rock solid at 2.3 marks and has been since the beginning.

    Maybe a pint within a week but the car isn't driven often enough to really say.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also (gulp) check your automatic transmission for coolant intrusion.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Hadn't thought of that...

    Via the ATF cooler inside the radiator...??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, a long shot and a dreadful situation but hey, it only takes a minute to check. If you see "pink and frothy" like a strawberry milkshake, you're in deep doo-doo.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Just pink...thankfully.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The coolant reservoir holds at 20PSI for longer than I was willing to wait.

    ATF looks clear pink.

    Engine oil looks normal.

    Car parked in garage..no leaks on floor.

    Lost ~8 ounces, 10 miles to, hour dinner, 10 miles from. Tank was at 10PSI of its own accord when we arrived at the restaurant.

    No obvious "smoke"/steam/vapor at startup or with low gear coast down, DRAMATIC coastdown, high intake vacuum.

    One other anomally..

    At ~40MPH and 1500RPM the car "tugs"(***) once in awhile. Turn off the OD and drive 40MPH, or drive at 1500RPM no "tugs". 45MPH in OD no noticeable "tugs".

    OD lockup clutch slipping...due to line pressure being too low..??

    *** Feels as if something pulling backwards just momentarily. First thought it was an engine miss.

    Engine RPM remains constant but that may be meaningless since the ECU drives it not engine directly.

    Ran the car in diagnostic test mode several times with no resulting codes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well, leaking or burning....no other possibility under the laws of physics as we currently understand them. :P

    You aren't drinking this stuff are you?

    I think you need to pressurize the system with a pump, about 3-5 lbs above cap pressure (no more) . Get under, look for leaks...if none....then pull spark plugs one by one (while still under pressure) and look for coolant on the tips.

    But NOT TONIGHT!

    (Don't forget to set your clock ahead one year before you go to sleep!).
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I removed the fill cap and installed a rubber plug with a valve stem epoxied in place. System held 20PSI for more than an hour. I'm becoming very much afraid that I have a head gasket leak....

    But strange that no vapor out the tail pipe.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The head gasket doesn't have to leak into the combustion chamber per se. It can leak to the outside, or to the oil galleys. Besides, in cold weather this vapor would be hard to spot above and beyond normal water vapor you see at this time of year.

    The pressurization test should reveal all, especially if you can get up on a lift. If you see no drips under pressure, then it's time to start pulling spark plugs.

    Leaks can be tricky--they can travel along the length of the engine, they can get burned up by exhaust, etc.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The problem that the 20PSI does not show signs of leaking down in under an hour.

    Leaving me with the thought that I have a slight head gasket leak. Head gasket leaks can allow combustion pressure into the coolant system or coolant into the cylinders when there is a high vacuum there.

    I see no signs of combustion pressure and the HARD coastdown in low gear doesn.t produce ANY "white" smoke.
  • energylauncchenergylauncch Member Posts: 2
    I have an LS 430 UL package with Nav and XM with the antenna mounted on the passenger side trunk lid. So my problem.. the XM sound is working fine, the presets work and the tuning works... but I have no text (artist and title) and the word "antenna" flashes in the upper display. If I use the manual tuning dial I see the artist and title info for about one second then it goes blank and the word antenna flashes. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well, nowhere to go from here without further testing. I guess you could dump a sealer into the coolant but that wouldn't really provide the answer, even if the coolant loss stopped.

    You can also test coolant for combustion gases with a test kit.
  • energylauncchenergylauncch Member Posts: 2
    The antenna is on the driver side.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    So, off this AM to buy some coolant system sealer/sealant.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Changed spark plugs this AM, several were so hard to get out I had to back them back in a bit and then continue removing. 150,000 plus miles might do that. New plugs went in easily.

    Had 20PSI in the coolant system the whole time but no signs of moisture on any of the old plugs. Seven of the old plugs look just as expected(***), with the 8th one being very slightly more tan vs the grey of the others. Coloration on the "grey"plugs extends down to level with the plug skirt/threads while the "tan" one extends only halfway to that point.

    In normal times I wouldn't even consider that slight difference as a symptom.

    *** http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm

    "Normal", and "Normal Life" pictures. Old plugs looked more like "Normal" rather than "Normal Life".
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "..one other anomally...."

    A fix, maybe...

    1992 LS400 factory shop manual volume 1, page AT-43:

    "(4) Shift-up to O/D will not occur when the engine coolant temp. is below 60C (140F) and the vehicle speed is below 60km/h (37 mph)."

    Hmmmm...

    Googled:

    LS400 "coolant temperature sensor"

    Found a number of instances of sensor failure.

    When I removed the sensor it came apart in my hands...

    New one was ~$30.

    No reoccurance of "miss" in O/D at 40MPH.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, well, your tip off would have been the tach needle jumping up during the "miss", since you were actually downshifting?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Well, no. I watched the tach and the speedo pretty carefully/closely and neither seemed to move. And remember both of these instruments are not directly driven but driven from the engine/transaxle ECU module by D/A converters.

    And I suspect what was happening was that the sensor would go open circuit intermittently and maybe for just short, sub-second, durations. The only time this would have any affect was when right in the "cusp" of the ECU using O/D, or not, around 37MPH.

    Might have even been a "vibratory" sensitivity due to engine vibration at 1500RPM.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Based upon my experience with my ES300 that did this (breached the head gasket), I didn't realize I had the failure until the engine hydro-locked on me and wouldn't turn over. What I'm saying is, you won't always smell it or see the white smoke before it becomes catastrophic. What you SHOULD experience if it is leaking coolant into a cylinder, is a rough run condition for a minute or so after start up. Something I had for quite a while before I tumbled to why it was happening.

    Some good news? After having the engine rebuilt, everything is good as new.
  • bladefootbladefoot Member Posts: 2
    Im trying to rescue a 92 400 with 245,000 on the clock,My problem is trying to find the AC pressure regulator /POA valve. Just trying to find one on the net with out spending a fortune!Right now she really is rough from hot desert sun baking the black paint and that little part is keeping me from enjoying my new ride-My father has a 91 that is in beautiful condition and its my goal to bring mine up to his level.
    If anybody can give me a hand i would appreciate it greatly!!!
    I hope to have some picts up very soon !And if anybody is in Tucson AZ and want to get rid of their GS 430 wheels ill gladly liberate them for what ever fee we can agree on.Thanks Bladefoot
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well, one day while your Dad is flying out of town, you.......

    just kidding.... :P

    I'd check with www.car-part.com and see if you can come up with something used. Parts for this car can be very expensive so be prepared to eat it if you can't find a used one. Have you checked on eBay? You never know what will show up there.
  • bladefootbladefoot Member Posts: 2
    Oh Ive been around the block trying to find parts for my Dads,One thing ill throw out for the other members though,I recently befriended a bloke in the UK for a drivers side handle(passenger there)and they are plentyfull there-any color-so ive convinced him to sell the seat "skins"on ebay so look for them in a week or so-he has a yard full!!!Jackpot!!!
    Believe me you if i could dads would be a avelon by the time he got back.
    Thanks for the welcome!!!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Why do you think the pressure regulator (EPR, Evaporator Pressure Regulator) valve, has failed...?

    It can readily be bypassed if it has. Its only purpose is to reduce the noise of refrigerant evaporation as/if/when liquid refrigerant at high volume enters the evaporator.

    The EPR simply keeps the FULL compressor intake vacuum from "reaching" the cooling evaporator. Effectively provides "back-pressure" within the evaporator such that the evaporation rate, liquid to gas conversion rate, isn't so rapid as to be annoyingly noisy.
  • lenengradlenengrad Member Posts: 3
  • lenengradlenengrad Member Posts: 3
    I have been taking my 2002 LS430 to the local HONDA dealer for oil changes. They charge $19.95 and even wash the car at no extra charge. LEXUS dealer charges $100.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Yes, and at that price you can be certain you're getting the cheapest, least expensive, recycled/re-refined oil available. Does that include a filter change, I would bet not.

    IMHO $100 is too much but $20 is TOO LITTLE...!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    1991 LS400 with only 150,000 miles and both front flex brake lines are leaking......

    Strange...., or common...?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    nothing unusual about that. This is an old car, double the average age of cars on the road today.
  • chestercountychestercounty Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I have an '02 LS430 in Black Cherry Pearl. Any idea where I can get mud guards?

    Thanks for your help.

    Scott
  • 1stavy1stavy Member Posts: 18
    I just hit 358,000 on my 2000 LS400. The miles are almost all highway. It runs well and handles my 50k yearly work commute. I'd like opinions on whether I should maintain it(replace the rubber parts,etc) and get the next timing belt in about 40,000 or buy a 07 or 08 Avalon Limited. I've replaced the exhaust, fuel pump, battery in the last year. I'm willing to keep it, drives great. I'm praying that a catastrophic event doesn't happen but it might be only a matter of time.Any advice or your opinions will be appreciated.

    My indy mechanic says I generally hold a car too long (i.e. 293,000 for my '95 Avalon) for a newer LS to make sense in that they have more expensive upkeep that could break me. The nagging issue for me with my car is the plastic tube from the radiator deteriorating such that the the gasket has to be cinched up high and checked periodically to keep the hose on. The car will also run hot if I'm in gridlock for 40 minutes or so, and I then turn up the heat to get the temp down. This was a common occurence this past summer.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles