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Volvo S60

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Comments

  • cmnottcmnott Member Posts: 200
    Yes, my T5 with the summer tires tends to be all over the road, yet the winters track straight and true. That is normal.

    My service manager told me the same thing, these cars are ready to go right out of the box. He also said that the only thing you may want to do is after aggressive driving to idle the car a bit.

    Apparently Volvo supports this "no-break-in" because I have heard and read it countless times even though it goes against everything we have learned over the years. same thing with those 7500 mile oil changes. I can't bring myself to wait that long!

    My S60 has been very reliable and in Ottawa, we have had the worst winter I can recall. 10 straight days of -40C+ weather. Not only did my car start but it heats up very quickly. This is a car made in a country with rough winters and I think all Canadians and Americans living North of New York can be thankful about that.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    interesting ... the owner's manual supports that?
  • poeti18poeti18 Member Posts: 10
    Although I love my S60R, I don't think the S60 offers enough space in the back for your friend (child seats). Assuming she tried it or will try it and it works for her, the S60 is a first pick, if safety is on your/her mind.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    thanks for the feedback. she seems to think childseats will fit fine. she looked at two of the cars. i wonder if she realized her kids will GROW soon, and not be able to fit in the car.

    she has stuck in her head the "volvo safety/durability" ideas from the 70's and 80's when we grew up. i just wonder if the newer cars are as good. my 1980 hand me down 240 DL was not reliable really, but it was durable in that i couldn't "kill" it, ya know? all news car are so much more complex....

    it is snowy this weekend, so i don't think we will go out looking at cars.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    Pat, it is true that the manual for the S60 does not specify a break-in period. However, the notion that an engine is not breaking in (or, is already broken in) is stretching reality a bit. The proof that an engine is in fact breaking in can be found in the improvement in gas mileage as the car approaches 2,500 to 3,000 miles. Brand new (with 10 miles on the odometer), my S60 AWD was getting 15 mpg city and 20 mpg highway. (Which is interesting considering the EPA sticker was for 18/25 if memory serves....) As the car reached 1,000 miles, the mileage improved to around 17/22. There was a gradual improvement until around 2,700 miles, when the mileage got up to around 19/26.

    This was the break-in procedure that I followed:

    1. After starting, gentle drive-off (no more than 1,500 rpm) until the coolant temperature is showing activity. Depending on the outside weather, you could be looking at 1/4 to 1/2 mile.

    2. After the coolant is starting to warm-up, no more than 2,000 rpm for the first 500 miles. Also, vary the engine loads (absolutely NO cruise control during this period). This may be one instance where stop-and-go traffic is actually good for the car....

    3. After the first 500 miles, but until 1,000 miles, follow the same approach in 2. above, but keep the rpm below 3,000.

    4. After 1,000 miles, change the oil and filter, and your car will continue the break-in process at its own pace. I would use Mobil 1 synthetic for the oil. There are others that are big fans of Amsoil or other synthetics; which oil to use is a personall decision - I am not a lubrication engineer, what was good for the factory is what is good for me.

    One final note, if you have an automatic transmission, I would change the transmission oil at 3,000 miles. This may be perceived to be over-maintaining; however, if you want to keep the car for as long as possible, you need to get the tiny metal particles out of the transmission as soon as possible.
  • frenchy2002frenchy2002 Member Posts: 40
    Avolvofan: how do you know that your procedure does any good and actually is the reason why the mileage improves? Have you ever tried to do nothing but just drive the car and enjoy? That is what I do and my mileage improved on all the cars I owned! Please, let's try to stop the myth here and just enjoy what you drive!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    The owners manual is actually quite vague on the subject of a break in period.
    We have been told by Volvo to keep the engine out of redline for the 1st 1,000 miles. Varying speeds isn't necessary however. Nor is an early oil change.
    I followed these steps w/ my C70 and have had no problems and I drive it pretty fast.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    The extent to which one wants to break-in their car is up to the individual owner. The Volvo factory instruction to Volvomax to keep it out of the redline for the first 1,000 miles would tend to indicate that there is some form of break-in occurring (even if one rejects the improving gas mileage analogy).

    Driving and maintenance of your car is your choice - removing the metal particles that are the by-product of breaking in the engine and transmission will result in a longer lifespan. If you are only going to keep the car for the duration of the factory warranty, then by all means, follow the factory's maintenance program.
  • soledocsoledoc Member Posts: 52
    I'm considering buying a 2004 S60. I currently am coming to the end of my lease on a 2001 C70 coupe which I love....but I have a 13 month old kid and the car seat thing is a real pain. I figured a four dour car should solve that problem. I'm basically down to a Saab 9-3 or the S60. I like them both. Exterior I like the S60 better, interior I give the edge to Saab 9-3. I realize the back seats are bigger in the Saab, but I'm not going to be back there much. It's basically for the convenience of getting my boy back there and the dog (52 lb. vizsla).
    I live in Indiana so we get some snow...just got 5" last night. My FWD C70 with all season tires did OK and the TCS definitely kicked in a lot last night and this morning. What are everyone's thoughts on the 2.5T FWD vs. 2.5T AWD? That's what I'm down to. I like nautic blue and would like to get the graphite/indigo interior but I'm not sure if that option is available.

    So my question is, what would you recommend in considering these three cars in my situation. Anyone look at these and drive them with thoughts?
  • phils60phils60 Member Posts: 21
    IMHO - Lengthy scheduled break-in periods serve to satisfy the owner's psyche far more than serving the needs of the auto-- same goes for synthetic vs. mineral lubricants. Save your money and put it towards tires and brakes. Your Volvo air conditioner will likely fail more than once before you need any internal engine repairs. Maybe there should be a break-in period for the air conditioner? (grin)... Enjoy your Volvo.
  • phils60phils60 Member Posts: 21
    I'd get the 2.5t. The S60 really lacks acceleration under 3k rpm without the turbo. When I purchased mine in Sept, 03, they had a greater rebate on the 2.5t so the price was the same. 2.5t Sport Package $29,185 Atlanta GA.
  • dgrusso67dgrusso67 Member Posts: 8
    Just got a call from a local dealer with the following:

    Volvo S60R, metallic paint, 6spd, premium, climate, touring, 18' wheels

    MSRP: 41,475
    Lease Term: 48 mo/12K
    Residual: 44% of MSRP (18,249)
    Rebate: $4,500, 1K to dealer, $3,500 cash to me
    Acq. 795 (cap to lease)
    Filing 389 (cap to lease)
    Adj. Cap Cost 42,403
    1 mo. payment: paid by dealer
    Monthly Payment before taxes: 648.77/687.70 w/ tax
    Money factor: .0024(roughly 5.76% annual interest)
    $$ due at signing: $0.

    Comments.
  • chef228chef228 Member Posts: 12
    I own two Volvo's, a 2001 XC with 65,000 miles and a 2003 S60 T5 with 13,000. About two weeks ago I found fluid on my garage floor under the 60. When I brought it in they told me that there was a defective clamp associated with the power steering system that caused a leak. Fixed under warranty.

    Monday I found the same fluid under the XC. Brought it in and guess what, a defective clamp associated with the $51.00 to replace the defective clamp.

    What I want to know is why do I have to pay for a "defective" part? Anyone else having this problem with leaking power steering fluid or do I just happen to own two different cars from the same company coincidently with the same problem?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    What is that $3500 customer cash you speak of? I don't see it here on Edmunds. Is that a factory rebate or is that how much the dealer is knocking off MSRP for you?

    Also, i wanted to comment on that residual. That is pretty harsh. Just comparing to some lease deals I've seen on Hondas lately (one of which was a 4-year deal on a CRV we got for my sister), they are giving 52% after 4 years. Volvos are really getting hit hard. Makes me want to stay away from buying new ones. Oh well.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • dgrusso67dgrusso67 Member Posts: 8
    Dealer told me it was a $4,500 factory rebate.

    I agree the residual is a little low.

    Thanks for the input!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    discounting the R that much this early in its life is really bad news. Maybe a volvo salesperson can confirm if this is a true rebate?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rollierollie Member Posts: 337
    Can't really tell if the residual is low or if your rebate isn't really a rebate. The best thing to do is find the ALG residual as this is the bible for residuals for leasing (and if the R is listed significantly higher in ALG then we know where the 'rebate' is coming from...)

    Thanks.

    -rollie
    rdollie@att.net
  • dgrusso67dgrusso67 Member Posts: 8
    The rebate is specific to leasing only per the dealer. It is being offered as a lease incentive which is why the money factor is just so-so.

    Also, dealer is keeping 1K but applying it to 1st months payment, tags, title such that cap cost on lease is only being reduced by 250 of the 1000 but i'm benefitting from the cash.

    Once again, input appreciated
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Does exist. Lease only, this way Volvo doesn't have to subvent the factory lease.
    What lease company is that through?
    There are better leases than that out there.
    Assuming you qualify.
    Residual should be @ 46% Money factors in the .00150-.00200 range for A+ tiers.
  • dgrusso67dgrusso67 Member Posts: 8
    There were two but I can't recall their names. I'll get them and post them.

    In my opinion, the residual seemed more in line with 15K miles a year which is what i'll push for if I pull the trigger.

    I'm not sure if I can get a better $$ factor AND the rebate but i'm sure going to try.

    Appreciate the continued input. We'll post more as information comes to light.
  • bearfootbearfoot Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everybody. I'm thinking about buying a S60R within 2 weeks and have some questions.

    1.How much is the Sport Pkg cost?
      --invoice/MSRP
    2.Any rebates for purchasing,not leasing?
    3.How much everybody paying for this car?
      --Silver/blue, Premium pkg, Climate pkg, 18" Ti wheels, Sport pkg.
      -- Is it possible to buy the car for $500 over invoice since demand is so low?
    4. Anybody could explain why OSD is the cheaper way to buy the car?
      -- I still have to pay the state sale tax, right?

    Thanks in advance :)
  • soledocsoledoc Member Posts: 52
    I'm coming off a lease with a C70 coupe using a car seat for my 13 month old son. The 2 door car is a real pain with a kid...plus those seats in the C70 are very slow. That's one of the reasons I'm considering turning in the coupe in favor of an S60...probably a 2.5T with sport package 5 sp geartronic so I can still "shift" when I want. My C70 is a 5 sp manual and I'm getting tired of shifting.

    How does the car seat work in the S60. Any brand recommendations? Thanks.
  • dgrusso67dgrusso67 Member Posts: 8
    offering the rebate is chase.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Lease companies have nothing to do w/ rebate. That comes from Volvo.
    Can be used w/ any lease company that does business in your locale.
  • iumbastuiumbastu Member Posts: 4
    If the lease is a 48 month lease then that's where the source of 44%. Remember the term is important to consider when discussing RV factors.

    You can click here you can see what the ALG RV is:
    http://cars.com/carsapp/national/?szc=02446&srv=lease&act- - =rv&mknm=Volvo&mdnm=S60+SERIES&yr=2004&mr=&x=- - 10&y=7
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    yeah, he said 48 months in the first post. its still low compared to my example of a Honda. Its a shame. Its the only thing that keeps me from really getting a new volvo.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • soledocsoledoc Member Posts: 52
    I'm wondering if anybody out there has seen the S60 in nautic blue....how's it look?....I'm seriously considering the S60 2.5T FWD with the geartronic transmission,(any comments on that?), heated seats, dolby surround sound, heated seats, sports seats in beige, moonroof....ie. loaded. When I price that out on the volvo site it comes to around $37,600.

    Any thoughts on how to best approach the dealer on pricing for this because I'm ending my C70(also nautic blue) lease in May so I'd probably have to order this car....or should I just risk it and wait and see what's on the lot at the time my lease is up (which I don't really want...but maybe the deal would be better). I am definitely buying my next car.
  • avolvofanavolvofan Member Posts: 358
    If you like the Nautic Blue on your C70, you should like the Nautic Blue on the S60. Doesn't the dealer have a new Nautic Blue car in stock? It doesn't have to be an S60 - Nautic Blue on any car is the same as Nautic Blue on the S60.
  • scott31scott31 Member Posts: 292
    That lease is terrible. I leased a '99 STS that stickered at $52,505.00 for 3 years for $721.38 a month. With NOTHING up front, I rolled all fees, taxes, etc into the lease.

    With a $3500 rebate and such, etc, the payments on that Volvo should be MUCH lower for a 48 month lease.

    Don't do it.

    P.S. My '95 Legend LS Coupe stickered at $43,970 and I leased it at $659.70. I also rolled EVERYTHING into that lease plus the $4000 I was upsidedown in my '92 Vigor, plus MD charge an EXTRA 5% lease tax to every payment back then. Bottom line is that Volvo lease bites.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Its impossible to compare using lease deals from other manufacturers under different circumstances in a different year. For instance, knowing Caddy of recent years gone by, that car may have stickered for over $50K, but between all the factory to customer incentives, factory to dealer incentives, and deep discounting to invoice, it makes a BIG difference on luxo-American cars. Then on the Acura, that just illustrates the point I made earlier about the extremely strong residuals on Honda/Acura vehicles, and it shows in their leases. Comparing a Volvo lease to a Volvo lease is the only true way to determine what is good and what is bad.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • phils60phils60 Member Posts: 21
    I purchased an 04 2.5t just exactly as you described for 29,185 in Sept 03. Geartronic transmission is great.
  • monkeyking1monkeyking1 Member Posts: 7
    I am trying to purchase an S60 2.5T AWD sedan. Carsdirect.com gives a target price of $29278.00 for this car with premium package (no xenon lights, no DSTC), in New York and New Jersey area.
    1) Is this goal achievabvle? Or this price is too low? This price includes a $3000 incentive which will expire on 2/29/04.
    2) Should I add DSTC (in Northeast, we have had a very bad snowy winter and I drive from NJ to CT twice a week.)?
    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • monkeyking1monkeyking1 Member Posts: 7
    I just got a quote for an S60 AWD
    Black Sapphire or Silver metallic color.
    Premium package.
    No DSTC. No Xenon lights.
    $30590.
    I am trying to ask the dealer to give me Edmunds price which is $33307-$3000 incentive = $30307.
    It seems it is difficult to get a deal based on carsdirect.com's target price, $29278.
    How do you think about this quote?
    Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    then why not just use carsdirect?

    I never have, so I can't say if it works or not, but I've been wanting to find out. :)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • yk40yk40 Member Posts: 19
    monkeyking1:

    Just recently, I have been offered s60 AWD with premium+sports package for $29410. If you like e-mail me and I will provide the sales person's name and the delaership.
  • dgrusso67dgrusso67 Member Posts: 8
    First: everyone's input is much appreciated.

    Final negotiated deal:
    MSRP 41,725
    Term 48mos
    Residual: 44% or 18,381 (right in line w/ ALG)
    Intial Cap Cost: 41,225 (gave me 500 off)
    Adj. Cap Cost: 42,162 (acq. + filing - 297 of 4500 rebate)
    Money Factor: .00185 (roughly 4.44%)
    Monthly Pay before taxes: 607.43
    Cash to me ($3500 rebate + 1mos 607.43) or 4107.43
    No $$ down.
    All service through 36,000 miles included

    I feel the deal is fair now imho
    S60-R w/ 18', premium & climate, 6spd

    Happy hunting. I pick it up at mos end
  • monkeyking1monkeyking1 Member Posts: 7
    1. Thank you very much yk40. I will email you in a few minutes.

    2. To qbrozen: if you mean that I should try to buy a car from carsdirect, here are the answers. I did call carsdirect. A Rep told me that if I see TARGET PRICE on the screen, they do not sell it. If I see CONFIGURATED PRICE, they have the car. I then assume cars like VOLVO, AUDI, BMW will not be sold by carsdirect.
  • soledocsoledoc Member Posts: 52
    For Phils60....$29,185? How'd you get a fully loaded 2.5T (geartronic,dolby,moonroof,sport package). I'd be interested to see how you did that at the dealer. That's like $8,000 less than the MSRP from the volvo website.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Congrats! Enjoy!

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Unfortunately, MSRP means nothing for volvos these days. Between dropping prices to near invoice and huge factory rebates ($4K on that 2.5T), they can be had cheap, cheap, cheap!

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • nick62nick62 Member Posts: 7
    Hi all,

    We're about to buy a new S60 for my wife, and I'm a little confused about the information on the Edmunds site about the rebates available on this car. I would like to ask if anyone knows what is really available:

    The incentives section shows the following:

    - $1000 Factory cash rebate to customers
    - $1000 Marketing support to dealers
    - $3500 Marketing support to dealers

    Are the $1000 and $3500 marketing support amounts additive, or does the $3500 replace the $1000 support? Also, is there really an additional $1000 factory cash to customers? Is there really $4500 - or $5500 - of rebate available on this car?

    Any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated - we want to buy the car this week, and like everyone else, want to spend as little as possible.

    Thank you!

    Nick
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Try asking Car_man over in our Rebates, Incentives, APRs - Questions & Comments discussion - I'll bet he can clarify this for you.

    Good luck - let us know how it works out.
  • nick62nick62 Member Posts: 7
    Thank you Pat! I've sent a note to Car Man!

    Nick
  • phils60phils60 Member Posts: 21
    Bought in Marietta, GA -Chris Volvo- Sept 03.
    2004 Model S60 2.5T A SR
    Ice White
    Suggested list price 29310
    Sport Package 795
    Premium package 2595
    Destination charge 685
    Total suggested retail 33385

    I paid 29185. Only 4200 difference. After reading some of these postings it looks like I left 1000 or more on the table. Perhaps you are looking at one with more options?
  • glevittglevitt Member Posts: 30
    Hey everyone. Just got these numbers(from the lease forum) for the S60R, these are good through the end of the month.

    36 mo. 12k/yr. - .00041 money factor 55% residual
    48 mo. 12k/yr. - .00041 money factor 46% residual

    or

    lease through someone else and get $4500 in alernate finance lease cash.

    When I was at the dealership on Saturday he thought I was making this up until I really pressed him on it. If you aren't being given these numbers, take a walk.

    If anyone has bought an R in Colorado I would love to know what you paid.

    Thanks.
  • soledocsoledoc Member Posts: 52
    Anybody out there using dedicated 17" winter tires (not all season) tires on an S60? I'm looking at buying an S60 2.5T with sport package that comes with the TETHYS 17" 235/45/R17 Pirelli P6 all season tires. I'm a little concerned about how they'll handle in the snow/ice. Granted I only live in Indianapolis but we do get a fair amount of winter weather. Heck, my neighborhood street is about 2" thick with ice for the past 3 weeks.

    I'm wondering if I should stick with the 16" all season tires or do you think the 17" all season tires will be good enough for a central Indiana winter. One more thought would be to replace the wheels/tires to 16" for the winter but I don't really want to pay that much.
  • cmnottcmnott Member Posts: 200
    On my T5, I have steel wheels with 215/55r16 Michelin Arctic Alpins. I have the Thors rims with Dunlop SP8000s for summer which greatly improve summer fun.

    The Michelins are amazing and pretty quiet for a winter tire. I think that you can get the 16s on rims for the price of 17s...go for the 16s. In fact, the size I have is the standard T5 tire.
  • dwightexdwightex Member Posts: 19
    my wife and i are considering the purchase of s60R and we have to drive in the snow in Western Maryland. So then, you are recommending separate 16" steel wheels with the Artic Alpins to change over to during the winter? The car comes with 17" rims and tires now.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    16"s won't fit on an R
    You'll have to go w/ the factory 17" alloy and snow tires. Your dealer will have an approved list.
  • cmnottcmnott Member Posts: 200
    Yeah, what volvomax said.

    Still, the Michelins are amazing.
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