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Comments
As to the warranty it has also to be purchased before the earlier of 50,000 miles are up or four years*. The cost is about $2700. I purchased a cheaper warranty (with a deductible) from Warranty Direct as I had a lease. If you have a lease there is a Catch 22 situation with Volvo - on the one hand I had to purchase the Volvo Warranty before the start of the last month* of the lease - on the other hand Volvo wouldnt tell me what the purchase price would be until DURING the last month......They turned down my bid price but I ended up buying the car at lease end but had to go elsewhere for a warranty. .
IF the cars computer does "detune" the engine then when the correct gas is used wouldn't the computer adjust the tuning accordingly?.
W the correct gas, the cars original state of tune will be restored.
(why ANY manufacturer would name the same model with such close designations is beyond me).
Fuel requirements
Octane rating
Volvo engines are designed for optimum performance on unleaded premium gasoline with an AKI octane rating of 91 or above. AKI (ANTI KNOCK INDEX) is an average of the Research Octane Number, RON, and the Motor Octane Number, MON. (RON + MON/2). The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87 (RON 91).
I've been running regular and seems to run fine. No detuning as of yet.
"Optimum(best) performance w/ octane of 91 or above.
Anything less and the car is detuned.
If you are just commuting, its no big deal.
Spirited driving, big deal.
I would say this is pretty good gas mileage for this car. I would expect a turbo to use more fuel, but maybe I am wrong ...
I lost power steering and power brakes but was able to control the vehicle until I could put it in park and re start the engine. No engine light remains lit so when I called the dealership they state that unless they can repeat the problem they won't be able to trouble-shoot.
Any suggestions?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Does anyone have any insights about the problem? Could the sound be something else? Do I have a loose something knocking against something else? Thanks.
In both cases, I was traveling at a relatively slow speed, 30mph and decelerating for a traffic light. The first time I had approximately six gallons of gas in the tank, and was decelerating to stop for a traffic light. The second time I had approximately three gallons of gas in the tank and the "low fuel warning" light was just starting to flicker. In both cases, and without any warning, I had no steering and no power breaks while the car was still moving. In both cases, the "Check Engine Light" came on and remained on until the following morning, approximately sixteen hours after the event. In both cases, the light went off within a few minutes of starting the car.
When I explained the situation to the service person at the dealership (Al Martin Volvo in in Shelburne, Vermont) they had never experienced a case such as this but they were reasonably certain that the fuel pump was the culprit.
Apparently what was happening is this: for whatever reason, Volvo employs a "auxiliary" fuel tank, sometimes referred to as a saddle tank. When the main tank is empty it should seamlessly switch over to the auxiliary tank without the driver even being aware of it. In my case, what was happening was when the main tank was empty it would not switch to the auxiliary tank and I would theoretically "run out of gas".
The service manager suggested that I avoid ever letting my fuel level get to the point where the low fuel warning light would come on thereby reducing the possibility of this happening again. Instead, for my next three tanks of gas, I drove the car until it had approximately one gallon of gas left in the tank, thereby proving their diagnosis of a faulty fuel pump.
Given Volvo's reputation and after spending $50,000 for this car I'm not quite sure what to think. I'm surely beginning to question Volvo's "reliability" as well as safety.
In both of those cases, less than two minutes before the car stalled, I had been driving at 70mph in the passing lane in bumper-to-bumper rush-hour traffic on the interstate. Had either of these events occurred while I was on the interstate, I (my car) would have been the cause of a multi-car pile up and who knows how many deaths and/or injuries would have occurred.
By the way, lug nuts are rusted like hell. Any suggetions for reliable Volvo parts dealer online? Thanks again.
I am planning to purchase a S60 2.5T this week and was wondering if folks could respond to the following:
1. Does Volvo sell an extended warranty (beyond the 48/50 which comes with the car) AND is it worth buying it AND how much will it cost
2. Any comments on the std HU-650 stereo...I have heard it not good
3. Buying experience in New Jersey
Thanks
The hu-650 isn't as good as the 8xx, but its pretty good if you go into the hiddle equalizer and set the radio up.
I leased a s80 from red bank in 2003. I found Volvo's to be a pleasant experience compared to a dodge or mercury.
But I am thinking of getting a new car now, and I am a little concerned about the future of Volvo. They have been laying off workers in Sweden and other places, and since Ford owns Volvo and are having their own bigtime problems these days, I fear that in a few years, Volvo may go away or just be a badge changed Ford- think my fears are justified? Same thing going on with Saab which is owned by GM. I am thinking that maybe an Acura TL or Honda Accord EX might be a better choice. What do you think? I like to keep my cars about 7 years. The Volvo S-60 looks like a good car, the engine is not that changed from my S-70 2.4L, and I have no need for the turbo (I get enough speeding tickets without a turbo!)
ALL of the new product that is coming is 100% Volvo designed and built.
In any company
you can find 1500 people that aren't essential to an operation. AFAIK none of the actual bolt turners are being cut.
BTW, the non turbo S60 has been discontinued.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a friend that was in a collision with his Olds Intrigue- the car was in the shop almost 6 weeks awaiting parts. Maybe that's why I want to buy a car that is very popular.
But my Volvo S-70 has been a great car- love the engineering, the seat comfort, the handling- would hate to see Volvo fade, but it sounds like it really will not.
Does that mean my used S60 (2001) will be worth more or less when I come to sell it? :confuse:
PS. The reason why I bought the non turbo was that when it came to re-sale there would be one less thing for anyone to worry about!
As far as parts ... are you talking about them folding completely or just not selling here in the states anymore? If just the states, then parts will obviously still be available.
Heck, Alfa hasn't been here in the states for over a decade, but I'm still able to get parts from resalers. Same thing back when I had my AMC-made Jeep. AMC was bought out by Chrysler and the CJ7 was long dead and buried, but resalers and aftermarket manufacturers kept me swimming in all the parts I needed.
I can understand your concern on something obscure, like, say, a Merkur, but something with as big of a following as Volvo I just don't see having a problem (and, of course, that is IF they were to fold, which, again, I don't see happening).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The S60 turbos simply sell better than the non turbos do.
So I face a difficult decision in the next 24hrs as I want to purchase in the next few days.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
There is a world of difference in city driving between a non turbo S60 and a turbo one.
Alot more passing power w/ the turbo. The 2.4T was designed w/ low speed power in mind. Full boost occurs @ 1800 rpm.
Thats why I think there will always be buyers for my S60 (non-T), especially with the extended warranty I have! And there appears to be little difference in resale prices when you get to a 6 or 7 year old Volvo.