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Comments
However, a 98,000 mile car will doubtless need some maintenance, which can be expensive.
CV boots, Motor mounts, water pump, Timing Belt, suspension bushings, these are all things that will need replacing eventually.
Make sure that you have a mechanic who is familiar w/ Volvo's look the car over before you buy.
Or should I get a brand new one for 27,300 - 2007 S60 with Climate & Premium?
Also can someone tell me if the maintence cost high on the S60? Like compare to the Accord? I don't want something to break down and cost me a fortune. Please advise, maybe Volvomax?
Most don't go over 5-6k.
Don't worry about abuse, the cars are always gone over prior to sale.
Plus, its an investment, and dealers don't abuse their own cars.
Maintenance runs to about $180 avg every 7500 miles.
Big service $600 or so every 60k.
Repairs aren't cheap,so maybe an extended warranty is in order if you plan on keeping it over 50k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
So the purchase price isn't bad.
Its not great,but it isn't bad.
For what it's worth, here is my experience. (You can search and find my queries here re the car I bought - it might be helpful.) I bought a 2006 S60 T5 in April 06. It was a dealer car, had been put on the road in Dec 05. It had 7700 miles on it. It has a sports package, i.e., the fancy tires, but regular steering wheel (not wood).
I ended up buying it outright for $25,000 and that included a 6-yr 100k mile warranty. That's after having walked out the door, and driven away - the dealer called me 15 mins later and said ok to that price. However, given the numbers you're quoting, maybe I still paid too much? Have the prices gone down, or was I duped? Volvomax? Please explain.
Anyway I would negotiate harder than you think you can and definitely be prepared to walk out - it's just a car (and the gas mileage in the city is 18 mpg average) - though it has great seats and headrests.
Good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't know. Are you going to keep the car for many years, i.e., beyond 6? Maybe the Honda, then.
Which do you find more comfortable?
What's the gas mileage on the Honda? Are you interested in its Hybrid?
What's the safety on each?
Those were things I thought about, finally chose the Volvo because I'm tall and the seats are great. The gas isn't. The safety is nearly perfect, though Volvo should get its side impact stats up to excellent. The headrests saved me from whiplash. So I chose personal comfort and well-being over the environment. I wish I hadn't had to make that decision.
Real-world gas mileage might be 1-2 mpg difference. Not a big deal.
If I was purchasing and planned on keeping the car long-term, I'd buy the volvo, personally. Given that I leased, the Honda was still an easy choice since it leased SO much cheaper at the time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I can't get them to lower anything anymore. I think it's final for them and they're kind of get piss off because I always change my mind. They're nice people so I understand. Thanks for all the replies guys.
HOWEVER, if you want to resell or trade it in 3 years from now, a Honda is going to hold its value much better.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
yes, i'm a volvo lover, but don't forget, at the moment, I have no volvo, but i do have an Accord. So I think that should count for some sort of nonbias.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It is very annoying and I have had to use a competing website for valuations. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Please use the Help link at the bottom of this page to report it. I'm sure they'd like to take care of it.
Also I have rattles from the rear doors when I play music with a lot of bass. Dealer does not have a fix and said it's abnormal.
Also rattle from the metal plate in the trunk where the speakers are. All you have to do is knock on it and it's present. I hear this rattle every time I go over bumps at low speed. So far no fix for these 2 problems. Dealers hears it and does not have a fix yet. Any input would be great as I'm going to bring it back to the dealer next week. Help!!!
on the lower left windshield used to
hold parking tickets, etc. to test this
theory, try putting some papers in it
(preventing the plastic from resting on
the glass), then get up to speed. if you
don't hear the buzzing, pull the papers
and see if the buzzing returns. if so,
go back to the dealer and tell them to
tighten it up!
Good Luck!
The question is would it in fact be better to pay $700 at a dealer - will there be any REAL difference in quality as clearly Volvo dont make their own brakes anyway. Do Midas and Meineke use really substandard cheap stuff?
Another alternative would be to buy rotors and pads online and have my indy do the job for a bit more than Midas. :confuse:
I bought brembo cross-drilled rotors and, IIRC, mintex pads online for about $250 and did the job myself. The brembos lasted FAR longer than the OEM volvo rotors.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
appreciate any thoughts on solving this problem. Only have 15000 miles on car which otherwise is exemplary machine.
thanks.
ellenbep
Car's got 16,000 miles on it. This just started. (I might have been fiddling with the FM1 vs FM2 vs FM3 modes lately, but that shouldn't be the reason for this, should it?)
Anyone?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks.
It would probably be more cost effective to either add the factory cd changer,or repalce the stereo w/ a Volvo one that has a built in cd player.
there are plenty of sites that discuss Volvo.
the best is probably Swedespeed.
Also, is there a good online outlet for interior replacement parts? The console flap (for lack of a better word) is broken.
I appreciate any information available
Bre
Thank you, I'll check the other lights once it's dark.
Bre
Keep turning it until the display goes dark to turn off the trip computer.
Performance is "brisk", particularly in the mid-range with its 295lbft of torque and I'm getting to love the beast. Comfort and enjoyment.
If you guys don't get this engine in USA you are truly missing out.
Could I do it myself or should I go to a dealer for it?
Thanks in advance
Thanks
Thank you,
Kate
this is a simple repair.
It is unheard of for the Turbo housing to crack.
I would get a second opinion if I were you.
Thanks so much! This is a mechanic that I generally trust, so maybe I am misunderstanding/not relating the situation correctly. Does the Turbo wear out? Or anything around it? Apparently the problem is that if I don't fix it, ultimately the oil that is collecting in the Turbo will start getting injected into the engine. If you have any other thoughts they are most appreciated. Although I don't want to overimpose!
thanks,
Kate