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Volvo S60

15556586061

Comments

  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Depending on where you are,finding a new S60 AWD may be very difficult.

    Nothing wrong w/ looking at a used CPO model.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    Because of the steep depreciation, I wouldn't think of NOT buying used.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • gregd1gregd1 Member Posts: 38
    I really like the Volvo s60. However the headrests are not adjustable. And during my test drive, my neck really started to hurt. I know they are not adjustable. So this is taking the Volvo off my list.

    But do others have this problem also?

    I know its for safety in a crash. But the position just seems wrong. making your neck jet forward. and your head stick out in front of your body. Its the old adage, about holding a bowling ball close to your body. As opposed to holding it out way in front of your body. You know?
  • cbbarecbbare Member Posts: 1
    HELP!!! HELP!!! HELP!!! I love my 2002 turbo S60 VOLVO up until now. I am really stressing with this issues here, I went to the store got back in my car to start it up and when I got to the first stop light I noticed the dashboard had gone out.. Just blanked out. The car ran just fine but the instrument panel was dead. It will come back on just to go right back out. No output. I can't predict when the dash will go out. I can't tell if there is gas in the car when the dash goes out. If I push down on the button to reset the mileage I can see where the gauges are only for the moment I push the button down. The radio panel works just fine. What could have happened? I took the car to a Volvo repair shop and they are asking for 1,400 to fix. This is crazy; he made it seem like normal wear and tear. Could it be anything else? Has anyone out there had a problem like this? Please respond.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    I haven't heard of this, personally ...
    what exactly do you mean it goes dead? You mean all the needles drop to zero? But then you say you push the reset button and you can see them again for a second. I'm not sure what that means. Do the needles start working for a second? Or are you only talking about the dash lights at night?

    but when you say "volvo repair shop," what are you referring to? If not a dealer, I would try a dealer.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • badger22badger22 Member Posts: 5
    Hi there,

    I have a 06' S60 and am bringing it in for 7,500 maintenance at 22.5k mileage. Can anyone give me what the typical cost of this maintenance is?
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    Sorry, no real idea. Here in U.K. the S60, (petrol or diesel), is only due a service every 18k miles or 1 year, whichever comes sooner. 7.5k miles interval is an insult to Volvo engineering................or a huge money-maker. :mad:

    18k service here costs circa GBP380, ($650 ?), from a Volvo main dealer. At least that's what I've been told to expect when my '06 S60 D5 goes in for its second 18k service in Nov.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    It should only be an oil change.
    So ~$50-$60, unless you are using synthetic, which pushes it quite a bit higher.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • debbiereddebbiered Member Posts: 1
    Any leads appreciated!

    The trigger button on my 2002 S60 broke off, one of the small plastic connections broke. I'm living with it wrapped in electrical tape!

    I'm beginning to believe that goolge and other are paid NOT to provide self help if possible.....Days of searching about multiple bulb failures as well.

    There has GOT to be a self help fix over the 400+ dollar repair and rental car fee.

    Thank you,
    Love my Volvo, Hate the multiple repairs.
  • tim15tim15 Member Posts: 10
    My S60 is at the dealer because non of the instruments or gauges are working. Blinkers dont work, and a few other things. Problem started when I disconnectedthe battery to remove the ABS control Unit. I was told my unitl could not be rebuilt, so I reinstalled it. Problem started after I reconnected the battery. The dealer wants around $1000 to replace the SIm Unit, and them they will look at the ABS control until. Any suggestions? The car has over 100K, and I'm not sure I want to put another $2000 in to it. Thanks
  • leftcoast2leftcoast2 Member Posts: 13
    My 2003 S-60 gas door hinge broke when I opened it. The hinge is very fragile. I guess I opened it too hard. Be careful and open slowly or it's off to the dealer to have it replaced.
  • badger22badger22 Member Posts: 5
    How does one distinguish if they have the halogen or the more expensive Xenon headlight and turn signals?
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    Not sure this is going to help a great deal but.............Xenons' are a much brighter blue/white light. Unless you have midget/triple jointed fingers, getting a bulb out to look-see can be tricky, (at least from late '06 on). :mad: There may be a more definite way to ascertain which type you have. Look at this forum; quite possibly the best Volvo forum on the 'net. Great bunch of people and answers for just about everything - either in previous posts or by asking the question. Try a topic search first. There is an S60 section.

    Volvo Owners
  • frankctx1frankctx1 Member Posts: 7
    04 s60t..anyone have trouble with this...it automatically searches for a station(i've been through the settings) and it won't tune anything above 1100 on the am dial.. my theory is is not properly grounded?
  • frankctx1frankctx1 Member Posts: 7
    thats a good one..as mine the daytime running lights are the same(brightness) as the headlights..i'm sure that is just the bulb in there ...but maybe not? frank
  • badger22badger22 Member Posts: 5
    Very helpful, thanks. I was nearly certain they were not Xenons, and was correct.
  • cdpar2000cdpar2000 Member Posts: 2
    Hello Alex. I've researched a lot. The trouble with the 2001 S60 is a feature Volvo built into the transmission. You can discuss this with the dealer. The idea was, when idling at a stoplight the transmission disengages from the engine, thus saving fuel. Unfortunately the constant disengagement / engagement causes the transmission to fail prematurely, but after warranty! You might feel the trans slip or something called flare up (engine revs) or even a clunking while the trans downshifts. Neither Volvo of North America or the dealership will repair this under extended warranty although this is a COMMON issue. It cost me $4,000 to have mine replaced. Careful about the drive shafts, another common issue is suspension components (bearings, spring seats) that fail. This could be misdiagnosed as drive shafts. Plead your case to Volvo of NA, maybe you'll have better luck than me. I will never own another Volvo as a result of this experience.
    Chuck
    Sacramento Ca
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Neither Volvo of North America or the dealership will repair this under extended warranty although this is a COMMON issue.

    Not true. Volvo has replaced transmissions under extended warranty.
    I have NEVER heard of Volvo failing to do this unless there was a clear case of abuse involved.
    I HAVE heard of aftermarket warranty companies jerking people around, but Volvo VIP doesn't do that.
  • catman01catman01 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a used 2004 S60 which had the message screen output in French. I need to change it to English for my wife. How can I do this, or must I go to a Volvo dealer?
    It seems simple enough. Catman01
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Almost certain that has to be done by the dealer.
  • catman01catman01 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Volvomax! I will try going to the dealer but I can't help thinking that a few maneuvers of the buttons will do it. Perhaps similar to the info for re-setting the service interval light? ( swedespeed.com of 02/24/05) Going to the dealer would mean they would have to use the proprietary Volvo software to do it, and I doubt that this would be required. If you can find out about this I would appreciate it. Thanks!
  • stockitomestockitome Member Posts: 3
    We have driven Volvo's for almost 40 years. Our first was a 1970 that we had for 14 years until my husband lost control of the car when a bee flew in front of his face and ran into a 2 ft high concrete curb (for lack of a better word). He had 4 students in the car with him. He thought he had just ruined the tired but instead the entire passenger side frame was totalled. Fortunately, NO one hurt. We owned four 240's (one wagon that my husband rolled over in and climbed out without a scratch.) We now own a 1998 which seems to be getting to the point of needing too many expensive repairs, yet our 1991- 240 station wagon is hanging in there. I've heard since Ford bought Volvo's, they aren't what they use to be. The 240's can turn on a dime. I'm reading the 06 has terrible turning radius. Are the newer Volvo's worth the money? I'm looking to spend less than $15,000 and I found 2 dealer that has an 04 AWD S60 2.5T for $14,500.
  • pdxtvguypdxtvguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S60 T-5. Love the car!...but I have the yellow check engine light on and it's running rough. The RPM's are normal at idel, but runs poorly at idel and low RPM's. When the car is up around 2500 to 3000 RPM the car runs almost perfect and the check engine light blinks. Is this a sensor? I would like any help you can give!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    Are the newer Volvo's worth the money?

    In my opinion, yes.

    As far as I know, Ford has nothing to do with it. The vehicles are still completely designed and built by Volvo. So your '98 would have the same issues even if Volvo was still independent. The 240 was one of the most bulletproof cars ever made. Whereas I can understand you wanting something as reliable these days, it just ain't gonna happen.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • stockitomestockitome Member Posts: 3
    qbrozen,
    thanks for the reply. trying to decide between a pre-owned Volvo or an Acura TL.
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    You are correct about the S60 turning circle................the captain of a supertanker would feel right at home here. However, having had my '06 S60 D5 Se for a year now, I wouldn't swap it. You just get used to choosing your parking spots a tad more carefully. ;)

    As for quality - the Ford influence is not a bad one. Design & build is still all Volvo, (and absolutely so on the '06's), but the current crop are getting some Ford-sourced components; which is sensible. Of course, the trade is two-way and Ford Europe use the Volvo T5 engine in their hottest Focus here in Europe - which is quite a compliment.

    Can't comment on Acura as they aren't sold here in Euroland. S60 AWD is not a loved car here. Dealers seem to think the AWD system is not "Volvo Reliable", but that may be due to it's relative rarity. Folk tend to stick with the front-drive models and the superb D5 diesel engine is the big favourite, (but you can't get that, sorry). Why not look at an S80 also...........better turning circle and not massively bigger overall. Thing to do, as always, is to go and talk nicely to a dealer and drive an S60 and an S80, (and the Acura, of course). That will probably help make the choice easier.

    As for the old 240's. I fear the days of such bullet-proof build quality are now, sadly, gone - unless you empty the piggy bank for a Rolls Royce Phantom, perhaps ?

    Happy New Year when it arrives. :)
  • stockitomestockitome Member Posts: 3
    Hi Alltorque,

    Really do appreciate your comments. Going to test drive an Acura '06, Volvo S60, and will check out a few other Volvo models. We had one terrific Volvo mechanic which is one of the reasons we have driven Volvo's for 40 years. He has retired, and we knew we would be in this position when we could no longer depend on him. He was the best...reliable, efficient, friendly, and reasonable. Oh well, that's life... adjust or ??? A good New Year to you, too.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    You have to access the cars processors. The only way to do that is to interface w/ the dealers service computer.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    Dealers seem to think the AWD system is not "Volvo Reliable"

    I can understand the hesitation. However, and I may be mistaken here of course, but it seems the problems surface in those vehicles that are much heavier (XC90) or have much more power (R vehicles). Seems as though the Haldex can't handle that much pressure, so the spline shaft (I think I have the name of the part wrong) has a higher than normal failure rate in those vehicles. If my assessment is correct, then I believe the S60 2.5T AWD and S40 AWD vehicles shouldn't develop that problem very often.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jennymohjennymoh Member Posts: 1
    I had to take my 02 Volvo S60 in today because mine has been making the same noise. They had to reset something on the gearbox (auto) and change the oil in the gearbox.

    My car only has 55K miles on it, so I think it's more of a maintenance issue and how the car is driven. I just bought it it three weeks ago used and I wasn't expecting the expense (161 pounds), although it's was alot cheaper than replacing the ETM which is what I thought it was.

    According to the mechanic when this has to be done it can bring on many symptoms. Mine was making very loud clunking and grinding noises when putting the car in Drive/Reverse especially from cold and over a couple of days it progressively got worse and it did it even after being completely warmed up. My car was also having trouble accelerating over 40 mph and it was getting horrible gas mileage.

    After this oil was changed in the gearbox today, I have not had any issues and the car drives like a dream again.
  • mochanipsmochanips Member Posts: 1
    WTB rear seat belts for my 04' S60 R. Can't find any on ebay. Any ideas anyone?
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    This is going to seem a mite obvious - put it down to my age - but have you tried a Volvo dealer ? If you're extremely lucky you may find one in a scrap yard; but I'd go the dealer route. What happened to the original rear seat belts, (presuming they were fitted - can't imagine they weren't) ?

    Last of the S60's is now in the showrooms here in Europe. Build of current version has ceased and new model is on the way. If it's like the concept it will be excellent. Very sharp design and has sliding/suicide doors on the rear. Article in the UK Owners mag made it look and sound up there with the very best, (of course).
  • goddess_1goddess_1 Member Posts: 19
    autobody16, thanks for posting the link!

    From what little is shown, I'm liking the new body style, but will be sticking with my '06 S60 until it poops out . . . Volvo will probably be onto yet another new body style by then.

    The 2010 S60 looks a million times better than the latest Acura TL -- what where they thinking with that awful rear design??? :confuse:
  • goddess_1goddess_1 Member Posts: 19
    A year later and you finally get a response . . .

    The headrest was designed to be ergonomic/keep you safe in the event of an accident, so either you have a goofy one or your neck is out of alignment (and should see a chiropractor). I find the immobile headrest comfortable most of the time . . . being female, it definitely causes neck tension if I wear my hair up. This would be one of my few gripes with the S60.
  • gregd1gregd1 Member Posts: 38
  • goddess_1goddess_1 Member Posts: 19
    The sliding shade for my 2006 S60 sunroof has the distracting habit of making squeak noises when I slide it to a fully open position due to road vibrations. It's still under warranty and I have had the dealer investigate 3 times - the previous 2 times, they said they fixed it (first, broken tabs, second, off alignment.) Today, they say can't find the problem - I'm pretty sure it's the Phoenix 110-dgree heat temporarily "melting" the squeak into submission.

    Anyway, this has been a relatively non-stop issue that drives me nuts. My remedy has been to pull the shade back out about 2 inches upon which it quiets down. But, I always have to get it "just right."

    Anyone else deal with this issue - and get it resolved?
  • rapidrickrapidrick Member Posts: 70
    They are head restraints and are a safety feature to help you from getting whiplash.
    If an automaker can make head restraints comfortable so folks can use them as "headrests," more power to them.
    Nothing personal, but basing a car buying decision on that makes as much sense as the number of cup holders a car has... :confuse:
  • seabass22seabass22 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 S60R with an auto transmission and I would like to replace it with a manual one. Has anyone attempted this or is this an impossible feat?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Member Posts: 5,238
    Not impossible, but not cheap. In addition to all the hardware you will need a new ECU. The auto trans car is detuned from manual trans spec. Merely changing the tranny won't change that. You will need to change the engine programming.
  • seabass22seabass22 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. After reading up on the auto tranny, I have been bound and determined to replace it for the more durable manual. I just wasn't sure if it could be done or if the cost would be more than I want to invest for the pleasure.
  • bhouckbhouck Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. I have spent alot of money trying to get it fixed by Volvo with no luck. They told me it wasn't anything serious, but the popping drives me crazy. I love my Volvo but I want the popping to stop. Did you ever find out what caused it.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello Volvophiles: I own an Audi A4 and have owned several V-Dubs, including a 2002 1.8T Passat which at 66K miles has already soured me on the VW brand. So, I usually stalk the VW forums. A few months back, I purchased a mint 2001 S60 (Arizona car) with 71K. So far, love it except for one item. At 75K, I started hearing an ANNOYING rattle from the front suspension. Seems to have gotten worse, and now, when going over any bumps or potholes, I hear a nasty pounding, clunking sound. I have trouble believing that the struts could be going bad at 75K. I could accept that "old age" might be a factor, but gee, this rig has lived in salt-free, sunny AZ most of it's life. Can anyone provide a good guess at what's going on? Are S60s prone to early strut failure or other suspension issues? Thanks, vwdawg/audiphile1
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    It is most likely the swaybar endlinks. They are very weak and usually need replacing every 30k. UNLESS you buy the heavy duty replacements from ipd. Very easy to change yourself, if so inclined.

    Now, it COULD be the upper spring mounts, as those also commonly fail, but those are usually more of a heavy clunk when doing extreme maneuvers or potholes at higher speeds. A rattling sound over small bumps at low speeds is typically the endlinks.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    Endlinks sounds most likely but I can recommend you search the following UK forum - or simply re-post your query there. Good bunch of enthusiasts and techies and I'd be enormously surprised if you didn't receive a fairly definitive answer in a trice.

    Volvo Owners Club
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello, gbrozen: Wow, I was just going to post a THANK YOU followup to my question from this afternoon. I had already checked older postings and was very pleased to see a previous post from YOU addressing this very issue! I do most of my own repairs, so I'll inspect the swaybar endlinks first. Also wondering if these worn links can also cause the clunking/pounding noises when I hit potholes or bumps. If not, I would like to inspect those upper spring mounts...would I just jack up the vehicle to remove the spring tension, and check for play or loose parts? Finally...one other question: I believe I have just reached around 7500 miles since the prior owner serviced the vehicle, and I'm getting a "Service Needed" message. How do I shut this off after the oil change service is completed? Thanks again...glad to see that you are still a forum advisor! vwdawg
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    No problem.

    The upper mounts are a little tricky if they are just starting to go. What happens is the rubber around where the strut nut is cracks. Sometimes it is obvious, sometimes not. At 75k miles on an '01 it is a distinct possibility. I recently bought an '01 V70 with 82k and they were in very bad shape.

    Personally, what I would do is check the endlinks and replace if bad. Then see where you are at. If some clunking still persists, then do the upper mounts. A bit more labor instensive, but still not that bad if you have a spring compressor.

    As for the service light... ah, now you are testing me. I can never remember the exact process. So here it is.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,936
    edited April 2010
    What? I'm not good enough?

    Seriously, though, a definitive answer is impossible without inspecting the vehicle. Heck, something could be broken, for all we really know. All we can do is give the most likely answer or a starting point.

    In any case, I wouldn't recommend a UK forum. While it could be helpful, there are some differences in the cars (such as diesel engines, for example).

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Thanks :) to gbrozen and alltorque....MUCH appreciated. I did remove the front wheels a couple of weeks ago and took a peek. My first Volvo, so I didn't have a clue as to what I was looking for. I'll inspect again and report back with findings. Also appreciate the reference to the SRI reset site. Great weekend to both of ya. vwdawg
  • mfeltsmfelts Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 s60r and I am getting a popping noise from the front of the car when first excelerating, turning and hitting bumps. The front r cv axle locked up and was replaced and the popping still continues. Any ideas? Im afraid it might be the spider gears in the axle housing, or could it be the sway bar ends like mentioned in the other posts. Please help. Also does anyone know how to take out the front gear housing?
  • mfeltsmfelts Member Posts: 7
    Also would the popping noise still occur on initial acceleration if it is the sway bar ends going bad?
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