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Comments
There are a host of complaints going to the NHTSA site
and it seems the acuators are not good on most Kia's
Maybe its a re call item the doors locking is really dangerous.
I hope Kia recongnizes this issue and does the correct thing
Problem #1
Okay, I fill up then I start the car and nothing happens, it doesn't turn on. I do it again only this time I'm pushing the gas. VEROOOOM it's on! Then, foot off the gas pedal and the car shakes off. The only way to get through this problem is if i keep pushing the gas until you almost feel it not shake and it stays above one.
This happened in december 2009 once before going home for the holidays. Once I was home, the rest of december it did not happen as dramatically. It would stubble but it would turn on. Now that I"m back from the holiday my car had it's dramatic scene again just like the first time. Help?!?
Problem #2
I did not use the A/C during the winter break. Why would I? However, I did use the heater and it worked perfect. Now Jan 2010, It got hot so i turned on the A/C and the car did exactly what it did at the gas station only this time it shook off while on and then gave me the trying to turn on problem.
What could this be?
What do i need?
Where should i take it?
I routinely get an oil change for specifically high mileage (Castrol) BUT i've never said yes when Wal Mart asks if i want to change out my air filter.
I have an 04 Optima and my driver door lock is beginning to fail. It has stopped locking/unlocking all the other doors, locks automatically when bumped or door shuts, etc.
Eventually, I will buy a new mechanism and replace this one myself.
do not recoil back. It should be reported to the National Transportation Safety Board. If a lock does not work properly and you are in an accident this is a very
serious safety issue
I hope the people who are on this board and blog report this to the dealers and
the government safety agency. You will also find left rear tail lamp bulbs burn out far to often on the 03/04's There are also many crankshaft sensors going bad on all Kia's 03/04 from low to higher miles. The lower mileage cars, are of course, warranteed.
All in all the Kias are decent cars for the money. But the dealers are not as
good as the cars. Find a reput
A Reputable dealer of service center who knows the cars
The 03 /04 seems to have the Mitsubishi engines in them
I have a 04 Magentis(optima in the us) EX with the 2.7 V-6 & 60,000 miles. The A/C blows ice cold air but when i am at a stop in gear at idle the car shakes badly & rpm,s fluctuate. If I turn off the A/C or out the car in drive or nuetral the idle smooths right out.
Any ideas???
Affter years of continual check engine lights (with seemingly no stimulus) coming on once a quarter and the Kia service department insulting me by telling me I can't put on a gas cap correctly, Midas (no affiliation) told me it was a problem with my canister. After it was replaced, I never had a check engine light issue again.
In addition, with rpm issues: I had several issues with the rpms going crazy and the car bucking including when coming to a stop. Kia told me that it was because the gear shift line was ran over the engine, and if it was too tight and the car approached a hill it would respond as if the car was shifting. That worked for a little while but then the issue increaded. Kia thought I was crazy. One day the car stalled and wouldn't move, so I towed it to a mechanic who replaced the engine coil. This happened a total of 3 times. Each time it helped for a while, but then eventually failed after about a year and a half. This also meant replacing saturated spark plugs and wiring, so not a cheap trip.
I hope this helps anyone who may be having issues out there.
I too also just recently lost my KIA due to a driver who decided to step on her brakes.
instead of the gas into a merge lane. So be it, the Airbags released and the 2004 EX
was not worth the repair. So I immediately set out to get a new KIA and found a 2009
leftover zero miles.
They are safe, they are great, you need to do the service as with other autos
and do not let anyone tell you the value sucks. After 106K miles and a very clean car
I recovered more than 50% of what I paid new..... Suck that up Lexus and Mercedes
The driver side door ajar sensor surrounded by a small rubber cap (wrinkled cone shape) on the body frame is not working.
So the warning signal on the instrument panel, the indoor lights on the ceiling and the reading lights (when in "Door" position), and the door light are not turned on, when the driver door is open.
Would you please let me know the replacement part and how to fix it by myself?
Thanks in advance.
We have a 2006 Kia Optima at around 68K miles. I am thinking of at least having a drain&refill for the transmission fluid.
Kia, like Hyundai specifies SPIII ATF. Is that a must? Redline claims its D4 ATF can be used where SPIII is required.
Has anyone had experiences with Redline D4 or any other ATF on the one hand and with SPIII on the other?
Should I just have a drain&refill done or should I get a flush?
I have a 2003 KIA OPTIMA (101K miles) that ran very well and recently had it stop running on the road. It just stopped running, no noise or anything else. It was towed to the shop and they said the crankshaft sensor wasn't working. I had then replace the sensor and the timing belt at the same time.
I got the car back and within 15 miles I was driving @ 65Mph and it started lurching violently back and forth. I thought that maybe the timing belt had a problem and pulled over and had the car towed to the shop again.
Then they informed me that they used a used crankshaft sensor and they believe it quit working. They were able to start the car and drive it in their shop. They ordered a new one, three days later I pick up the car. They said that the crankshaft sensor was replaced then the car would start but it would die immediately afterward. They said the mass air flow sensor was bad and had to be replaced ($238).
The car has vibration problems that weren't there before the initial repair and runs rougher as well. Even at idle there is vibration and when you rev it up it gets worse. After driving it 5 miles the check engine light came on.
I'm planning on going back tomorrow and seeing what they say.
I had a couple of questions:
1. The crankshaft sensor obviously quit working and caused the car to stop violently the second time. Could that stop have caused any damage to the engine (valves?) or possibly the mass air flow sensor? It's just strange that it quit working at the same time, when it had been running to pull it into the shop.
2. Considering they only worked on the sensor, timing belt, and MAFS what would be the likely culprits for causing the new vibrations?
We had to cover 3 days rental car and an additional towing do to the second repair. The wife would just like to dump the car and move on do to it now running "completely different".
Thanks in advance for your answer,
Best,
- Dan
Today on the freeway my wife's 2006 (early model) Kia Optima had a vibration, fluctuating RPM and then it stalled.When it stalled we saw al lights on the instrument panel light up. No check engine light stayed after staring it again.We drove for a few minutes and it died again.
I opened the hood on the safety lane and checked the battery poles and belts.I could not see anything out of the ordinary. But my wife said a day before a bird flew in front of the car's grille and she found the bird's skeleton at the driveway that evening.
We drove the car home without problem. 15 minutes or so. No check engine light.
What could be the problem?
:confuse: I am using Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil for almost 8,000 miles now. With synthetic oil my usual oil change interval is 7-8,000 miles usually.
My 2002 Optima was shaking violently when at a stop in drive. It started about 66000. When I would go into the dealer for an oil change, I would mention it. He would give me answers like try a different gas. Next time he would say, "Oh, dont use Sams Club gas." Turns out he was trying to prolong it past my extended warranty of 75000, so he did not have to pay to fix the real problem which was all motor mounts were cracked. The shaking got progressively worse as each mount failed until a friend told me to change the mounts. By then, the damage was done. Violent shaking caused cracked refrigerant line, plus others. Cost $1800 total to fix.
Maybe this may help someone.