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Also it's not a good idea to post your email address on a public webpage. If you want Forums members to be able to see it, all you have to do is make it public in your profile.
We have had some discussions on the Sirius - a keyword search (left side of the page) might turn up some useful information for you while you are waiting for an answer here.
Hope this helps!
150,000 miles and look at how little I need. Great car!
When we went to buy a car we were on the phone to friends in New Zealand; they said the Diamante was like a Caddilac to them there. So we bought it. the only problem we ever had which was out of the norm was the trans fluid thing after 30,000 needed changing and caught us unaware but Mr. Vivona clued us in on that one.
I do need to change the LED's in the dash climate control. I wonder how much that cost anyone?
I have a 1992 Diamante LS. About 6-7 months ago my diamante started stalling. It would just shut off while running in no perticular pattern. It would start up again after about 45 minutes to an hour or so. If i left it untouched for couple of days it would run more than if i left it untouched for couple hours. It started happening more often. So me and my dad tried to replace things that could be problematic. But we got no results. So I took it to the dealer. They told me that there is a problem with the computer system in the car. So i got it replaced, and the problem kept coming back. They kept my car for 3-4 months and still couldnt figure out the problem. I paid them approx. 1600 dollars for nothing. they gave me my car back with a replaced computer and the same old problem. The diamante has been sitting in the same parking spot for 2 months and i cant find a cure. Can anyone help. I love my car so junking it is not an option for me.
Recently I have been seriously entertaining the idea of trading the Diamante off due to a couple of problems I was affraid to have fixed. I probably would have already parted with it except the one car I was hoping to buy had been sold by the time I arrived at the dealer. After a month of looking around and pondering a car payment I decided to take the D to the mechanic to see what it would take to remedy the lackluster acceleration I have been experiencing in recent months and track down the new oil leak. The solution to these problems were amazingly simple - acceleration - traced to the ten year old spark plug wires, oil leak (this is embarassing) - traced to the oil cap no longer providing a tight seal.
Given the relatively cheap price of these solutions I have now deceided to hang onto the D for a couple more years or more. It currently has about 93k on it and runs great. In fact I now need new tires as the old worn ones won't stay planted anymore.
Mr. Vivona
It has really been a GREAT car. White Pearl exterior with grey interior (LS).
I have only needed to put one set of brakes on the car. The back brakes were replaced at 108,000 miles and the front at 126,565 miles. That is the only work ever done to the brakes.
I have put on 3 sets of tires...the last ones about a year ago.
It has always leaked a little oil. And...now it is burning oil...but it still runs great. I put in some "Stop Smoke" and the oil does not show burning out the exhaust. Replaced valve cover gasket.
I do have one little problem (and it was my fault for not checking better)...about 3 years ago the transmission started leaking and before I realized it, it had drained all the fluid out of the transmission. Took it in for service...replaced a gasket/seal and re-filled the fluid. It runs great except on occasions it appears to shift into neutral. This only happens on "hot weather" days and it is "very intermittent". It only happens when you first start up the car and pull out of a parking space. If you let the "idle" basically pull you out (back) and then you shift to drive occasionally it acts like you are in idle. You then have to shift back to park and then to drive and everything is fine. The strange thing is that is appears to be getting better each year. Don't know why.
Again this has been a great car...the best driving car I have ever had (Camaro, Skylark, & Supra). It still looks very good.
I think Mitsu messed up when they did not put more effort into this car.
Oh well...soon I will have to part ways with this car. I am looking at a 2006 Infiniti M35 or 2006 Acura RL.
I have driven both and they drive very well, but they are not like my 92 Diamante.
So guys...enjoy your Diamante and I hope you have as good of experience with yours as I have.
I just can't remember what size they were, either 6.5"'s or 6.25"'s? Take your current speakers and see if it states 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm, just buy something similar to it you will be fine. Replace with a component speaker set ie. Separate tweeter and woofer. You might have to use the tweeters somewhere else unless you are unhappy with the stock tweeters ( ...I wasn't) and replace them as well.
Do not buy the common two-way or three-way speaker sets, there is a high pass filter on the line and it won't sound right.
Also you may also want to transfer the a foam gasket that is glued to the front of the speaker cone ( If there is one ...I can't remember). This completes the seal between speaker and the interior door molding. If you don't complete the seal, you will probably have less bass.
You will just need to cut the stock speaker connectors on the speaker end and determine which is the negative and positive wire. You can usually tell by reading where the current wire in connected to on the old speaker. It should be marked by a (+) or (-) on the speaker housing.
Good Luck...
With exact replacements you are guaranteed to have the original sound.
If by "blew" you meant that the foam deteriorated and the speakers still work, but they sound raspy, you can replace the foam yourself for less than $20 and about an hours work per speaker. Visit http://www.wooferrepair.com/6kit.html
Mr. Vivona
Estimates range between $1,000 & $2,500.
I don't want to sacrifice safety/peace of mind for $, but I also don't want to be talked into doing more than is reasonably needed.
I like the car, but am aware of it's value($7,000-$8,000)
Also, I'm aware that the final decision is mine, but would appreciate a bit of help in the decision making process.....thanks in advance to anyone who responds.
Cheers!
For 60,000 miles, spark plugs and timing belt are "must do's". While the timing belt is being replaced, it is good practice to replace the drive belts, the water pump and the timing belt tensioner. If you are good mechanically and have the time, you can save hundreds of dollars by doing the work yourself. You will need the factory service manual which has step-by-step instructions. You can save on parts by visiting the online dealers that offer wholesale pricing on genuine Mitsubishi parts (see my previous posting) . I recommend against using aftermarket parts. You will never be sure if the part is up to the original specs. You can buy the factory parts wholesale and still find a dealer that will install them for you and save about 25% on the parts cost.
Mr. Vivona
Al
Any good advice out there as how best to remove an alternator on my '93 3.0 SOHC Dia?
Manual says "remove from below"- no way!
DiaDon
Maybe the only *able* mechanic was away on vacation that day.. :confuse:
I suggest you get a second opinion by going to another mitsi dealer - then if still no direct answer try an reputable independent repair shop that specialize in Mitsubishi's...
You also have to watch the dealer parts prices, they charge you *mega* retail when you can get them cheaper on-line! Ask them for a quote and specify the required parts list with prices. Then compare with Mentor Mitsubshi http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213934 .
Good Luck...
Ray K.
My last brake job was done by my trusted independent mechanic who replace F/R pads and turned all the rotors at 65K miles.
I'm now at 114K miles and thinking I should service the brakes as preventive measure. I've done brake jobs on other cars in the past so I don't think it's especially difficult. I'm planning on using brake pads from the dealer.
After reading through this board, my concern is with the rotors. I'm planning on having them turned at Autozone if not worn down below specs. I believe they have the Accu-turn machine. Is this a good idea?
Any input is appreciated!
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/reliability.aspx?year=2001&make=Mitsubishi&model=Diamant- e
Note that the survey says the 2001 Diamante, along with all second generation Diamantes, has the highest reliability rating possible. My experience with my two Diamantes has been excellent.
The heater core problem seems to be a rare issue where a gasket leaks. The actual part is cheap, but getting to it can be difficult, though some owners have posted on the Diamante Owners Group website a procedure to remove the heater core without removal of the dash. This problem does not show up on any industry-wide reliability rating, so I doubt it is a major issue.
I have not found parts to be any more expensive than other imports. You can get parts for wholesale through http://www.parts.com/index.cfm?action=subCategories&categoryID=1&subCategoryID=24
The transmission hesitation is not a defect. It is a characteristic of the shift pattern program where a sudden throttle flooring at around 25MPH may not cause a downshift as may be expected by those looking to jump into a hole in traffic. The Diamante has great low-end torque, so the transmission program is not as rev-happy as would be for an engine that needs high RPMs for power. In my 6 years of driving my Diamante, I have not had any problems with the transmission shifting characteristics. You should go drive the Diamante and decide for yourself.
The brake problems you read about in forums happens to any car. Mechanics routinely overtorque lug nuts and than can distort the rotor which will cause it to wear unevenly leading to brake pulsation about 3,000 miles later. Read all about it at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm
As to value, you can check it here at Edmunds, as well as at www.kbb.com. Just make sure you put in all the details and mileage correctly and fairly rate the condition of the car. You would use "private party value" to determine a fair price when buying from an individual.
Since you have a lot of direct knowledge about the Diamante in question, I would say it would be an excellent opportunity to buy a great used car at a fair price. If you love the way the car looks and drives, I say go for it.
Mr. Vivona
I had the 60,000 mile service not too long ago, and I spent a lot of money to have all the required (and the recommended timing belt replacement) work performed. Has anyone else experienced this vibration/shudder in their D's or suspect what might be the cause???
Thanks for any help you might offer.
replaced the rear pads this weekend but noticed the rotors are shot and
need to be done... does anyone know how hard it it to replace them.
Thanks to all
Thanks.
MITSUBISHI MOTORSALES OF AMERICA, Inc.
6400 KATELLA AVENUE
CYPRESS, CALIFORNIA 90630-5208
(714) 372-6000 (310) 493-1235
TELEFAX (714) 373-1020
TELEX 683453
MAILING ADDRESS:
P.O. BOX 6400
CYPRESS, CALIFORNIA 90630-0064
The next release of Tech Talk will have the following information regarding a possible fix for heater core leakage. We wanted to get this information to you as soon as possible due to the increased demand we are seeing on the heater core.
Group 55 Heater, A/C, Ventilation
Heater Core Gasket Availability 1997-2002 Diamante.
Heater core leakage may be caused by damaged gaskets between the heater core tank and the connecting pipes. Replacement gaskets are now available (p/n MR925655).
One yellow gasket is included per package.
===============================================================
This was posted by an owner on the Diamante Owners website:
Hey guys, today I took on the task of fixing the heater core in my D of course you know it was just the o-ring but I figured why replace with a part that I know will screw up again, so I tried adding in a black o-ring along with several beads on red RTV high temp silicone. I ran out of daylight , so I didn’t get the chance to reassemble my dash, but Just wanted to let you guys know that no you don’t have to take your whole dash apart to get the heater core out and no you don’t have to disconnect any a/c hoses, let me explain and if you have done the heater core on your own then you’ll understand.
Take entire under part of dash out, and the wood grain center, radio, clock ashtray etc, under the dash there is a box that the a/c line runs into this looks similar to the heater core same principle but makes cold air blow into car, anyway this is a two piece plastic box with about 8 metal clips around it, take out the clips and the box comes apart, this is of major importance. Disassemble metal dash unibody pieces under and behind radio, and take the nuts for the heater core box off of firewall, four nuts, with some tricky maneuvering you can turn this box then take out three screws holding heater core feed line in place, voila! heater core comes out. Anyway back to the experiment with the different o-rings and rtv silicone.it must set up for 24 hours, and for added security I am fabricating a splash shield for my ECU, just in case she doesn’t hold, but if it works I will let you know, or doesn’t, by the way total cost so far is estimated at 2.50.
Hey rather than 900 labor from those thieves at the dealership, of the 15.00 a piece for the replacement faulty o-rings (two needed) I think I came out pretty good, almost too good, that’s why I putting a cover on my ECU, hate to try to save a few bucks then fork over 1500 for a new brain, hell I’m surprised it still works it was covered in antifreeze.
===============================================================
Another posting about replacing the gaskets:
Well, I finally got around to changing the heater core O-rings on my 2001 Diamante. Thinking about doing it was worse than actually doing it, not being sure if I could really get at the o-ring though the glove box, but it works. Hopefully, the procedure will work for the other 2nd generation cars as well.
The most surprising thing that I found was that I believe that the leak was caused simply by loose screws where the pipes attach to the heater core.
None of the screws were very tight. At this point, I'm not totally sure. The car started leaking about a month ago (the "sweet" odor, the vapor on the windsheild, etc.). Within a day or so, I put in some "Barr's Leak", to seal it up. The leak was definitely improved, though I could still smell the odor. I think that's normal. However, there is still a possibility that the actual core was leaking. If that's the case, there is also a good chance that the Barr's Leak will seal that up, more or less permanently. I didn't change the heater core. It's just that if the leak is simply loose screws, the flexing of the hoses (from the engine movement) could eventually loosen the screws more so that it would leak with the sealant. I'm not certain that the root cause was the loose bolts.
I had a 79 Mustang that had a leak on the heater core, and found that the whole dash had to come out, so I tried the coolant sealant and it worked for the next 3 years that I owned the car.
So, anyway, taking a hint from someone that posted here on the forum, that you don't need to remove the whole dash (I'd give him credit but the posting is gone from the "Heater Core Problems" that was on the forum).
NOTE: This procedure allows you to change the heater core o-rings. I don't believe that you can actually remove the heater core from this procedure. I believe that the Instrument panel (dash) needs to come out for that.
So, anyway, here's a procedure that should help if you want to attempt it yourself.
As usual, no guarantees, you attempt this at your own risk.
1. Disconnect the negative side of the battery. You'll be working around the passenger side air bag and you don't want that to go off!!!
2. Order 2 (TWO) O-Ring gaskets, Mitsubishi Part Number MR927776, they were $2.65 each on-line + $9 shipping. For what it's worth, it appears that the newer ones are a different design. The original (from my 2001 D) has a ridge around the outer perimeter on one side only (though it could have been flattenend out from being installed). The new ones have a ridge around both sides, so I assume they seal better. HOWEVER, I just noticed another post that indicated that the TSB listed the MR925655 part. (Hope I didn't put in the wrong gasket!!!)
3. Get the freon removed from the car. (I have a friend that removed and will recharge the system for me).
4. Make sure the engine is cool. Drain the anti-freeze. You don't need to jack up the car. Put a pan under the front right of the car and reach down between the engine and radiator and turn the white plastic valve a few turns, and let it drain straight down, be patient (Don't remove the valve). Once the fluid is drained, tighten the valve again. You'll get about 1 gallon of anti-freeze mix.
5. Remove ONLY one of the two heater hoses, closest to the passenger side, on the firewall. The other heater hose doesn't have to come off. I used a pointed nose pliers to squeeze the clamp, and pulled it back over the hose. You may have to turn the clamp to get good access. Put a towel below the hose to catch the coolant that will leak out and twist and then pull the hose off.
6. Remove the 10mm bolt from the smaller AC line at the firewall, behind the engine, as well as the bolt that helps to attach the same line to the firewall (for extra play when sealing the line).
7. Remove the 12mm nut from the larger AC line at the firewall. I found that a long extension and a flex
8. Seal the ends of the AC lines (I used plastic bags and rubber bands) to keep any debre out.
9. Remove the rubber hose with the 90 degree bend located slightly to the right of the AC lines. This is the AC condensation drain hose.
NOTE: When working under the dash, it helps to have a knee pad or something to kneel on.
10. Moving inside the car, Remove the Under Cover assembly below the glove box. There are 3 plastic fasteners that pull straight out.
11. Remove the Glove Box (2 Phillips screws) and then the glove box frame (4 Phillips screws). Use pointed nose pliers to remove the tabs that hold the wire to the top of the frame, and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the connector on the top of the glove box frame. This connector goes to the passenger side air bag. Handle with care!
12. Remove the metal frame bracket from under the glove box, being careful not to damage the wire to the light switch. Use a fine tipped screwdriver to pry the small connector catch (wrapped in foam to keep from rattling) so that connector pulls apart easily.
13. Remove the left side heavy "Z" brackets from the round tubular frame from above the evaporator unit. The one on the right side doesn't have to come off, it won't be in the way.
14. Remove the 2 12mm bolts at the top of the AC Evaporator and the 12mm nut at the bottom. Also disconnect the two connectors that are on the side of the evaporator.
NOTE: You do not need to remove clips that hold the two halves of the evaporator housing, nor the black connector block on the right side, nor the black plastic piece on the left side of the box. NOTE: The fan assembly on the right side does NOT need to be removed.
15. Pull the carpet back to make some extra room and so that when some of the AC oil leaks out, it won't get on the carpet.
16. Now comes the tough part, getting the evaporator housing out. (i.e.: 10 lb evaporator, 5 lb opening!!). Pull it forward some, then bend the front down (toward the floor) and pull it around. Takes a bit of playing, but it will come out. There will be a bit of AC oil that drains out on the floor, but with the carpet pulled back, just wipe it off the underlayment floor surface. Shouldn’t be more than about 1/4 oz.
NOTE: After re-installing the evaporator, I think that it might be wise to bend the metal bracket that holds the left side of the glove box (attached to the center console inside supports) back and out of the way. This should not only help in getting the box out, but also back in (which is WORSE than trying to get it out!)
17. Looking up to the left, you'll see the hoses that are connected to the heater core. You won't be able to remove the heater core, but you will be able to remove the 4 screws (#20 torx head) from each of the two hose blocks. BUT FIRST put 2 or 3 towels on the floor (stuff them around the metal brackets) to keep the coolant from draining into the floor mats.
18. You will be able to remove the upper black plastic hose end (twist it upward), but the other metal pipe is fairly firmlly entrenched. There is enough room to remove the plastic bracket between the hose and the heater core though, along with the o-ring.
19. Spend some time cleaning up the anti-freeze from the area to help get rid of the smell, or it may be around for a long time. I did note that they put a piece of plastic on the top of the ECU (under the foot distributor duct) so reach in with a paper towel and wipe it off. There was some discussion on the board about covering it completely, but my concern (being an electronics engineer) that if you seal it too tight, it won't be able to cool as well as it needs to. Anyway, I used a squirt bottle to put some water around the heater core, but it doesn't drain out. Soak up the water with paper towels. (Anyone have a better idea on how to clean up?)
NOTE: There is a plastic bezel that goes between the lower hose connection on the heater core, which surrounds the lower o-ring. There are some square prongs that stick out. These prongs go toward the heater core. Look at the upper plastic hose connection, it's essentially the same, but the piece with the prongs is not removable.
20. I would suggest that when you are putting the heater core screws back in, with the new gaskets, that you add a touch of a medium strength lock-tite to the screws so there's less chance that they will work their way out again. Remember that the screws go into a plate of aluminum, about 1/8 inch thick.
DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!
21. Be careful when putting the evaporator back in, not to damage the fitting surface. When re-installing the AC lines, don't over tighten. They are aluminum fittings. Handle with care.
22. Getting the evaporator box back in is worse than trying to get it out. You're on your own here. I ended up breaking the black plastic bracket behind the left glove box support (so I bent the metal bracket back, as mentioned above). I just glued it back into place with a good epoxy. No one will ever see it.
Reassembly is the reverse. Use new Anti-Freeze to replace what you've drained.
KNIN
I dont quite understand the cornering thing but this is a strong engine with front wheel drive which isnt a great match in my opinion. Thats why race cars are still rear wheel drive.
So, I am confused on what it really is, and @ how much to fix. Any ideas appreciated. (V6 engine.) Also, other than that, car runs great! (I think it may have a small power steering fluid leak, I have to add fluid sometimes.) But like I said runs great other thank smoking.
Thanks in advance!
My local Mitsu dealer has an '04 Diamante LS with 15K miles on it on his pre-owned lot. The car is gold, and has beige leather interior. It is a sharp looking car, and he is asking $15,900 for it. I am curious to hear from some of the owners of newer model Diamantes as to whether or not you would reccomend the car to others. Has anyone had any major problems with these cars, or have most experiences been good? I have an Outlander, and have had a really good experience with the dealership. I know the Diamante was discontinued, and I am not worried about resale - I would just like feedback from owners as to how your cars have held up since you have owned them.
Thanks Jeff