Mitsubishi Diamante

adamw · July 2002

I would like to add few things to the Mitsubishi discussion. I bought my Diamante in 1999. Beautiful, fast, comfortable car and for first 15K miles worked great. After this I began to have problems: the car would take a long time to cool off at high temperatures
Squeaky drivers seat, whistling noise from the ventilation system, broken thermostat, shaking brakes, anti-lock brakes warning light stayed on, leaking fog light seal, broken switch in the transmission shift, broken lock in the storage compartment. I had all of it fixed under a warranty. Now my warranty is over. My car has 50K miles, I have spent $2700 in last three months on repairs and maintenance. The biggest problems where with AC, that was blowing hot air and needed an expensive repair and ABS brakes that failed few times I had to replace two sensors (so far) for a total of $1600. I am someone who follows all the maintenance schedules and care about the car performance and look; I never neglected any oil changes, transmission, break fluid etc, so I expected the car to work well.
I read some of the postings on the discussion board and I see a mixed review but I have to agree with the skeptics. This is a nice looking car, but it is very high maintenance. I know things can brake, but I am 15K miles over the warranty period and I have spent almost $3000 on this car. I previously owned 1989 and 1993 Mitsubishi but looks like this is the last one I will buy. I am very disappointed with my car.

naveedk · August 2002

I drove my Diamante 95 LS yesterday and only once I felt evn pushed the brake pedal but car didn't stop but after that I drove around (carefully) and couldn't have that failure again. Any recommendations on what should I have checked out?

vivona · August 2002

mcaparso -- Follow this link to complete instuctions on how to remove the center console and dash trim to get to the radio:

http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article1.htm

For more articles, go to the following page and click on "All Diamonds and Pearls Articles":

http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/

Mr. Vivona

ccancio · August 2002

Hello,
Got my first major failure in my 1999 Diamante LS that forced me to get a tow truck.

Well last Friday the engine started to run rough and my car wouldn't idle, smelled a lot of un-burned gas as well. I then got stuck in an busy intersection.

Luckily I was an experienced driver who used to own a car in college that had some similar problems ;-) and knew some driving tricks.

I managed to restart the car and and in forced traffic stops put the gear in neutral and increased the RPM enough so that the engine didn't die, anyway I managed to make it back work. I then called for a tow to the locl mitsi repair shop here.

At first I thought it was an oxygen sensor problem again, computing the wrong mixture ratio. As it turns out Mitsubishi service says it was an injector failue. My factory warranty ran out last January but luckily, the repair will be covered under an extended service contract I purchased.

Now the question. What actually happens when they replace an injector? Would you know if they would have to take the intake manifold off???

If so - will they automatically change the engine coolant? Reason I ask is I am now in the 30K mile mark and the service manual says it needs to be replaced. If they are going to have to drain the coolant to do the repair job, I don't see why I have to pay the $89 they are asking to do the task.

Thanks in advance!
-C-

wheeler24 · August 2002

I am ready for new tires on my 2000 LS. The car came equipped with Yokohama "V" rated tires. What would you suggest for replacement? Should I stay with "V" rated? I need an all season replacement, due to winter weather conditions. Are you partial to any particular brand? Your responses are always appreciated.

avm00 · August 2002

Folks, help me out with this problem... 95D LS w/103k.. seems to have just started smoking.... happens randomly and rarely but when it does we're talking massive blue smoke! Normally there is no smoke at all.

Seems i have read about previous issues with smoking D. Is there any info on the historical D smoking problem? Is this the symptom(random/rarely)? If so, what repairs are needed and estimated cost?

Could it be something else?

Thanks for any advice.

czibert · August 2002

Not sure...I had heard that the smoking problem only occured in Diamante's equipped with the SOHC engine (ES models and the Wagon)...someone else may have more info about that? And anyone have info as to whether or not a re-designed Diamante is going to show up here in 2003?

lngtonge18 · August 2002

The historical smoking problem deals with the SOHC engine, not the DOHC on your LS. The valve guide seals tended to leak a little with high miles, causing a little oil burning and a small puff of blue smoke when first started or accelerating after a long period of idling. Your problem sounds more like a broken or damaged oil ring. With a bad oil ring, the oil will drip into the cylinder and collect until it suddenly burns off, releasing a large blue smoke cloud. If that is the case, the only way to rectify the problem is to have the engine rebuilt, an expensive job (probably around $2-3k). If it happens rarely and the car isn't loosing more than a quart every 1k miles, then I wouldn't try to fix it. Just make sure you check the oil level often and watch the condition. It will worsen over time and will eventually need to be fixed. I just want to make sure of one thing. Are you sure the smoke is blue and not white? If it's more white, then you have a blown headgasket, which means water is mixing with your oil, and the problem is more serious. Either way, good luck.

czibert: No redesigned Diamante for 03.

regfootball · August 2002

i thought both the ES and LS had SOHC, or is it that the 95 'd' had two different motors.

czibert · August 2002

ES and LS only have SOHC after '97, before the ES came with a 175hp SOHC and the LS with a 202hp DOHC. The SOHC model is the one with some smoke problems that is why I was confused, because only the LS model was offered for 1995. If what Ingtonge says is true, that is terrible news.

As for the new model check out "http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mitsubishidiamante/" which seems to indicate otherwise. I had also heard previously that a 2003 redesign was in the works, but it seems unlikely it will his US shores by next year. This seems especially true given the facelift that the '02 model got and the addtion of the VR-X trim level.

Chris

BKagan · September 2002

I have a 99 D with 22k and sometimes ABS light
comes in and goes off soon after. I would hate
to go to the dealer to check (warranty is over).
Any suggestions?

vivona · September 2002

Sorry for the delayed response. I have been on vacation.

It is not necessary to remove the actual intake manifold for an injector replacement, but it is necessary to remove the intake plenum which is the aluminum multi-tubed unit that is visible on the top of the engine. The plenum goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold. It is not necessary to drain the coolant to remove the intake plenum.

So, the coolant still needs changing. Make sure the shop completely drains the coolant by removing the block drain plugs in addition to opening the radiator petcock. The block drain plug threads must have thread-lock put on them when reinstalling them. Also, make sure they use distilled water and not plain tap water when refilling the coolant. A 50% mixture with a quality ethylene glycol antifreeze is recommended.

By the way, the intake plenum will need to be removed again when it is time to replace the spark plugs.

Mr. Vivona

vivona · September 2002

If you liked the performance of the original Yokohamas, replace them with the exact same model and size. I have had good luck with Yokohamas on other cars.

I definitely do not recommend the Goodyear Eagle GA's that come on most Diamantes, including the two I own. On my 1999, they vibrated and it took several replacements to find ones that could be balanced. By that time the two original tires that did get balanced developed a wear pattern that has led to tire rumbling. The same thing has happened to a friend of mine's 2000 Diamante with Goodyears. I also have read of tire rumble with Goodyears in the Galant forum.

I also have had excellent luck with Bridgestone Turanza tires. I have owned several sets on two different cars and they were very quiet, had excellent traction and lasted "forever". I recently rented a 2002 Galant for my 2,400 mile vacation and it had Turanzas on it and it was very quiet.

It has been many years since I have owned Michelins, but the JD Power, Consumer Reports and Tirerack.com ratings always give the thumbs up to Michelins. But they can get expensive.

The lowest speed rating recommended for the Diamante is H.

Here's what to do. Go to http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp and enter in your information in the "Shop For Tires" blanks. When you get to the page that lists your tire size, select "View All" and you will get a page from which to select the characteristics and brands you want. If you select all the choices under "All Season" you will find some excellent choices among Yokohama, Michelin, Bridgestone and others. I would be tempted to buy the Bridgestone Turanzas on that list. Dunlops are good and inexpensive, but they can be noisy.

Buy the tires you select from a local tire dealer, though, so you can return for replacements and adjustments if needed. (sorry, Tire Rack) To select the tire dealer, visit http://www.gsp9700.com/ and select "Locate A GSP9700" to find a dealer that has the GSP9700 which is a special balancing machine that presses a 700 pound rolling force against the tire while it is being balanced to balance against sidewall variances. This is the only way a tire should be balanced when used on a high precision suspension like the Diamante. Read all the information on the GSP9700 site and you will be better educated when you buy your tires.

And, most importantly, when you actually get your tires, DO NOT let the tech use an air impact wrench on your wheels or you will end up with brake pulsation about 3,000 miles later. Visit http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm for the full story.

Let me know what you end up with and how you like them.

Mr. Vivona

2001lsguy · September 2002

I currently own a 2001D LS and love the car very much....i do however have 1 complaint....the goodyear eagles supplied with the car produce a lot of road noise....anyone else have this problem?....i had the tires checked and balanced but still here what i believe to be an excessive amount of road noise....would appreciate your input...thanks...

wheeler24 · September 2002

After considerable research at tire stores and on the internet, I chose the "Dunlop SP Sport 5000", to replace my original Yokohamas. I read all the reviews on the tire rack.com website and talked with many tire experts at the stores. Most of the experts said to stay with the "V" rating because that is what the vehicle was engineered to ride on. I have put on approx. 150 miles so far and I am very pleased. The tires are so much better than the originals and I feel like the car is brand new again. Handling is better and the ride is much more quiet . I bought the tires at a local tire store and get free rotation and a 3 year road hazard warranty. Most "V" rated tires do not come with a manufacturers mileage warranty. My origianl Yokohamas had 41,000 miles and I will be pleased if the Dunlops last as long. I insisted on hand tightening of the lugs and the tire store used the GSP9700 to balance the tires. I also have my own torque stick thanks to Mr. Vivonas advice. What type of tire pressure guage do you recommend Mr. Vivona? Thanks again for all the great advice.

vivona · September 2002

2001lsguy--The Goodyear tires start out quiet, but over time the tread segments wear irregularly and you get a rumbling sound. Though this can be caused by infrequent rotation, the most likely cause is the tire being out of balance when it is actually on the ground even though it will check as balanced on a regular tire balance manchine. The Goodyear Eagle tires seem to have inconsistent sidewall stiffness around the tire, so as the tire rotates and the softer, or stiffer, part of the sidewall contacts the ground the tire bounces. It is this bouncing that makes the tread wear irregularly. You can check this by running the flat palm of your hand around the tread, particularly at the edges of the tread. You will most likely find the tread feels rippled.

The only way to balance these tires is with a GSP9700 (see Message 763 above). But once you have the tire noise there is nothing you can do except change out the tires. I certainly wouldn't use Goodyears again. No matter what tire you buy, it pays to always have tires balanced with a GSP9700 to be sure the tire is completely in balance when subject to the force of the road.

I have the tire noise on my 1999 Diamante and plan to "live with it" until the Goodyears wear out, then switch to a better tire. My wife's 2002 Diamante has Goodyear Eagles with 5,400 miles on them so far, and they are still quiet. I am hoping they stay that way.

vivona · September 2002

wheeler24-I use a precision round mechanical gauge from Brookstone. I like it over digitals because I can see exactly where the pressure is rather than to the nearest half or full pound as shown on digital gauges. It has a release valve that allows you to let a little air out at a time to make fine adjustments to get the pressure just right. I don't know if Brookstone still sells this gauge, but I have seen similar ones at auto supply stores. Mine has a foot long flexible hose and cost about $15.

I set my tires at 2psi over the 29F/26R specified by Mitsubishi. That is the most I would recommend over normal. That gives me a bit lower rolling resistance, and also allows me some margin before the tire pressure drops below the 29F/26R recommendation.

Mr. Vivona

dangnabbit · September 2002

Greetings from St. Louis, folks.

I was wondering if you wouldn't mind helping me solve a few problems that I've got with my 1992 Mitsubishi Diamante. I bought it new; it's got 170,000 miles and still running strong. However,

1. The fan that blows air into the passenger compartment is on the fritz. Sometimes, when I go over a small bump, it comes on. And if I go over another bump, it unpredictably turns off. This will happen at least once or twice each time I drive. And it will occur irrespective of the fan switch being on or off or auto or low/medium/high. And in spite of three A/C compressor replacements over the last year, the A/C still refuses to work.

2. All the lights on the steering wheel button have gone off (i.e. radio controls) and the cruise control no longer works although other items on the steering column work fine (i.e. headlights, wipers, turn signals, etc.).

3. The SRS light (for the air bag) is constantly on.

4. The antilock brake light on the dash comes on evertime I exceed 100 mph and it stays on even if I slow down. The only way it will go off is if I stop the car, turn it off, and restart the car again.

I've got a feeling these problems are all interconnected cuz they seemed to develop roughly around the same time period (about 2 years ago). Since then, I've taken my car numerous times to the mechanic with no joy. The dealership wants $800 to take the dashboard apart and see if there is a loose wire either within or behind the steering column. And there is no guarantee that they would be able to fix it. They also want another $800 to change the car's computer, even though they are not sure that will solve the problems either.

Personally, I'd rather not spend that kind of money on a car this old. On the other hand, if you guys have any suggestions on how to deal with these above problems effectively and efficiently, I would forever be obliged.

With kindest regards,

vivona · September 2002

1. An intermittent A/C blower can be caused by a bad winding in the blower motor, a bad wiring connection or a defective switch. I puzzle why the A/C compressor would be replaced three times. A mechanic should diagnose the cause of A/C failure and correct it. Just replacing parts shows no diagnostic skill and ends us costing you money (and making the mechanic money...hmmm)

2. When several electrical parts quit at once, it usually points to a wiring or grounding problem. A skilled automotive electrical technician can look at the wiring diagram and diagnose the likely point of failure.

3. The SRS light coming on indicates that the SRS computer is receiving a code that says a component is not providing the expected input. If the SRS computer provides a code output, the mechanic should use a scanner to see if there are any errors reported.

4. If the antilock brake light only comes on at 100mph, I am compelled to ask that you do yourself and other motorists a favor and not drive at such an excessive and dangerous speed. That being said, the antilock brakes receive input from wheel sensors and there may be a problem with a sensor. All debris should be cleared from the sensor teeth and the gap between the toothed wheel and the pickup coil should be checked for proper alignment.

Now, since all of these problems are electrical and you say they occurred around the same time, it is very likely there is a common cause. First, the alternator voltage output should be checked. If the voltage regulator was defective and the voltage was running high, that could certainly cause many problems. Another cause could be a wiring harness connector that has become unseated. This points back to the need for a skilled automotive electrical technician to study the wiring diagram and see what is common to all of these problems. If all the problems are common to one computer, that computer can be failing. Over the years, the capacitors in a computer can fail and cause many problems. Some skilled technicians actually know how to replace the capacitors which only cost a few dollars plus their labor instead of replacing the entire computer for hundreds of dollars.

For the dealer to want $800 to remove the dashboard and look for a loose wire says to me that they have no idea of what they are looking for. And charging $800 for a computer without first verifying that the computer is bad makes them sound like parts changers to me. Have they even checked the alternator voltage? Have they studied the wiring diagram and found common connectors to check? Have they scanned the computers for error codes? Have they tried another computer from their stock to see if that fixed the problem? If it didn't, they could return it to stock, put the old computer back in and only charge you for labor.

It seems you might seek out another dealer, on an independent shop that specializes in automotive electronics.

Mr. Vivona

dangnabbit · September 2002

Mr. Vivona,

Thank you for the above post. Your advice is well taken. I'm going to take the car over to an independent mechanic today and see what they say. I'll probably take along a copy of your post so I'll have something to refer to while I ask them about the above measures.

Regarding the Diamante's computer: according to the dealership, the computer and the codes were so "screwed up" that their diagnostic computer was unable to read/interpret the car's computer. It's possible that's why they wanted to replace it. However, I'm going to ask the mechanic today if he could simply reboot the computer according to the factory settings. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Gratefully,

Adnan

zimonawhim1 · September 2002

what is the level of difficulty in changing all 6 spark plugs and wires on an older DOHC Diamante. My dealer made it seem as if it were the parting of the Red Sea(and quoted me a price to match). I know the plenum needs to be removed for the rear facing set, but does this preclude a mechanically competent fellow such as myself from figuring it out or completing the task in a relatively short period of time? Also, are any special tools required?

vivona · September 2002

zimonawhim1-The job is time consuming but should not require any special tools. The important thing is to use new gaskets between the parts you remove and use a torque wrench to tighten the spark plugs and all nuts and bolts to the recommended torque. I would not attempt this job without a factory service manual. One will cost you around $100 or so, but it will provide you with step-by-step procedures for all Diamante maintenance for your year of car. You can get one from the following source for wholesale:

http://www.magauto.com/mitsubishi.htm

While you are at it, clean the throttle body. It is a lot easier to do if you remove the plenum. See the following for instructions:

http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article3.htm

Mr. Vivona

vivona · September 2002

By the way, if the car is running fine, I wouldn't be in a hurry to change the plugs and wires. You can usually go far beyond the recommended mileage interval.

Mr. Vivona

zimonawhim1 · September 2002

Last night I gave it a look and the front set could be handled within minutes. Unfortunately it was too dark to see anything with the rear facing plugs. I'm having my timing belt replaced and I just figured it would be more effective to have that done at the same time. My car runs a touch rough(very minor-no hesitation or stalling) and I think I should be getting greater fuel efficiency. I have a raw gas smell coming from under the hood, and I'm not sure if there's a relation. You recommended mag auto to me before and I'm quite satisfied with the service and prices. Items usually arrive within 2 days and have been 20-30% cheaper than dealer. I have a printed copy of your D&P article and it shouldn't be a problem taking care of the throttle body. Thank-you for the advice.

agroman · September 2002

I recently purchased a 93 Diamante ES. The car is in great shape and doesn't have many miles considering it's age.

I have been reading a lot about Unichips lately, and I was wondering if anyone here has successfully installed on in a Diamante. I'm particularly interested in knowing what sort of gains I should notice from installing this $595 piece of equipment.

Also, I was wondering what other modifications have been generally successful. I have been reading about people installing K&N flat-cone filters that are compatible with the MAS in Magna's (the Diamante's Australian counterpart). Has anyone done something similar to a Diamante... (What is the difference between the Magna and the Diamante, besides the name??)

I'm a neophyte when it comes to cars. I've recently become interested in modifying this Diamante and am looking for any suggestions or warnings!

Also, I just read this article (posted earlier by vivona) http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article3.htm ... Mr. Vivona, can you suggest any other links to good information like this re: the Diamante?

Thank you.

Pat Padgett

regfootball · September 2002

looked at some VR-X's today

really am in love with the black leather and silver/chorome accents with white gauges......really makes my wife's ES look ratty in comparison.

Now if Mits could pump up the hp to 240 or so......mmmmmmmmm I want one.

vivona · September 2002

This forum seems to focus on owners like me that do not make many aftermarket modifications to their Diamante. There is a large group of enthusiasts that like to make all sorts of appearance and performance changes to their Diamantes at the forum at http://www.voy.com/423/

There is a Diamante website at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/ This is the one that has my Diamonds and Pearls articles. It also links to the forum I mentioned above.

There is a new Diamante website at http://home.earthlink.net/~mdvca/

Mr. Vivona

pandboy · September 2002

Mr. Vivona: I just saw a 2002 used ES with 1K miles on it. The dealer is asking $16999. Is this a good buy. Thanks in advance.

diamanteguy · September 2002

I have a 93 Diamante. My keyless entry has a problem and i am trying to get it reprogrammed, but the dealer said there is a problem with the reciever and it would be 80 bucks for it and programming. However even if they cant fix it there still gonna charge me a 50 dollar diagnositc charge, and i dont care whats wrong with it if its gonna cost me 50 bucks, what should i do?

regfootball · September 2002

screaming deal...........

jump on it.......think of how much the fools pay for their brand new Accords with similar equipment 25K! The D has more personality and at 17k for basically new.....well.....DO IT!!!!!!

for reference i bought a 2001 ES in December of 2001 with 11k miles on it and paid 15,600. Mine has steel wheels tho.

pandboy · September 2002

The dealer also showed me a Mazda 626 LX-V6 with leather and sunroof and has 6K miles. They are asking for $14999. I do have hard time to decide which one is a better deal. Any comments are welcome.

timtran · September 2002

I have driven both cars. The Mazda 626 is a nice car (with 5-speed manual,though) but nowhere near the D in all aspects. At 17K, it is a better deal than the 626. You have the advantage of a full liter in engine displacement; coupled with a K&N air filter, the D's response will satisfy you.
Good luck.

regfootball · September 2002

tHE dIAMANTE IS SO MUCH MORE STYLISH.

diamant · September 2002

Being an engineer I should be ashamed that I haven't been able to figure out this yet. Anyway, how do you reset the trip odometer on an LS? It has two knobs(?) and the first just keeps on showing you trip A, B and the actual odometer reading. I can't do anything using the second, I think that only makes lights dim or bright.

lngtonge18 · September 2002

I would assume it works just like my Lancer does. Push the knob in to get to A or B and then push in and hold it until the miles clear.

2001lsguy · September 2002

is it me or are the transmissions in these cars hard to get use to.....i think they call it "adaptive shift control"

jeit · October 2002

Just brougt a 2002 Diamante LS 3 Weeks ago. When I tried to use the rear window defogger this morning, one of the grid line dose not work. Took the car back to the dealer. Service advisor looked at the car and find out there is a very small disconnection on one of the grid lines. He told me that they are going to order a kit to fix that problem. I was just wondering if the fix going to be noticeable because I want to put a tint on it. Also, Should the dealer replace the rear window since I only had for 3 weeks. Any help will be wonderful...

lngtonge18 · October 2002

The window does not need to be completely replaced due to a small cut in one defogger line. The defogger is simply a metal strip that conducts heat. The kit will probably incude a small strip of metal or conductive metal tape that they will solder into the cut or a whole strip to replace the broken one. It will not be noticeable and will not affect your ability to use tint. Just make sure not to use the defogger for 5 days after having tint installed to keep little bubbles from forming.

vivona · October 2002

pandboy-According to Kelley Blue Book www.kbb.com a used 2002 ES with 1,000 miles on it would retail for about $21,990. A new 2002 from www.carsdirect.com would go for $22,500.

I would wonder why it only had 1,000 miles on it and was being sold used? Was it a dealer car or was it titled to an owner? If someone bought it and returned it with only 1,000 miles on it, I would want to know why.

Why is the dealer selling it for so much under retail? There may be some factory incentives that are bringing the price down or the dealer wants to get it off his inventory.

Test drive it carefully and ask a lot of questions about its history. If all checks out, buy it.

As for a Mazda 626, that is a lower class of car and in my opinion it is at the bottom of the mid-sized car class. I have rented one and it drove and felt very unrefined. They do not have a good repair record and dealer satisfaction scores have been bad. If you are looking at a Mazde 626 and consider it okay, then you need to be looking at a new Galant. Using an Internet pricing service like carsdirect or www.autovantage.com, you can buy a new Galant in the price range you are shopping.

Mr. Vivona

vivona · October 2002

diamanteguy--What is not working with your keyless entry? If it is not working at all, I would check to see if you have a blown fuse. Check the batteries in the remote. If these "first-aid" steps do not restore operation, then you have to have someone skilled in auto alarm electronics diagnose the problem. If you trust that your dealer understands how the system works, then it is not unreasonable for them to be paid diagnostic time. $50 is only about an hour of time.

Mr. Vivona

regfootball · October 2002

they are rental returns or demos I'm guessing.

The 2001 ES I bought with 11k on it was an AVIS rental.

fatsam2 · October 2002

Has anyone taken advantage of this zero zero zero promotion? If you have what kind of interest rate are you getting after the deferred period.
Fatsam

dangnabbit · October 2002

Hello Mr. Vivona and friends,

My 1992 Diamante LS was running great until today when out of the blue the transmission refused to drive in more than one gear. When I put in "Drive" it only drives in third gear (I think, judging from the slow starting acceleration and tachometer). Even if I put the car manually into first or second gear, it still remains in the higher gear. Reverse, park and neutral all work fine.

There's no problem with the engine as far as I can tell -- i.e. no hesitation or sputtering or stalling, etc.

I checked the transmission fluid level and it is normal. In addition, the fluid looks a healthy pink color.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Adnan

lngtonge18 · October 2002

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the current 000 deal includes 0% interest for the entire loan. However, the 000 deal before July 02 had different interest rates based on your credit. I was rated 3 Diamond stars, which was the highest, and got 9.9% interest.

aviscu · October 2002

I just recently purchased a 92 D. I am having problems with a rumbling sound comming from the left wheel when driving and there is a dip in the road or turning to the right. I have replaced the caliper and rotors on each side and problem is still there. I am thinking now that it is a strut problem. My question is my "D" has ECM suspension can I replace the front struts w/ regular struts instead of the ECM struts?

lngtonge18 · October 2002

Rumbling sounds normally point to a bad wheel bearing (hub assembly in the case of newer cars). When struts fail, they generally rattle or squeak and the ride will be floaty. I would have your front hubs inspected before replacing the struts. There is a slim chance the rumbling is caused by a worn out CV joint so check the boots and make sure it isn't cracked.

pandboy · October 2002

The car was sold to someone else in the next day since I did not put on down payment. It was a rental car. My locad Mitsu dealer is also a large volume used car dealer (over 500/mo.)who always have lots of used diamente for sale. They usually offer very good price. So I will definitely have another chance. Thanks very much for your opinion I always apprecaite. BTW, do you have any experience or comments on Montero (full size) xls. I am looking forward to replacing my minivan in the near future.

vivona · October 2002

A Montero is a very different vehicle from a Diamante. Unless you are buying for fashion or have two different needs and neither vehicle can satisfy both (i.e. Montero = cargo, Diamante = comfort/performance) it is difficult to make a direct comparison because one excels in what the other doesn't. The Montero is based on a truck platform and rides much harder, is heavy and cumbersome when compared to a Diamante.

The Montero will certainly have better offroad capabilities (but 95% never go off road) and cargo capacity. But the Diamante is much safer, more manuverable, better handling, better riding, quieter, and gets better gas mileage.

When my wife bought her Diamante, she wanted to test drive a Montero Sport because she liked the idea of sitting higher. The driving experience between the Montero Sport and the Diamante was marked, with the Diamante significantly better in every aspect. She easily decided in favor of the Diamante. But your needs may be different and the Montero may be just what you want.

You can learn a lot about the Montero by reading the TownHall discussion. Just use the "Search TownHall by Vehicle" feature on this page.

Mr. Vivona

vivona · October 2002

The rumbling noise could be a bad CV Joint or wheel bearing, particularly if it is louder when turning.

To check the wheel bearing, jack up the front of the car and turn the wheel and compare the sound with the other front wheel. To do this, crawl under the car and put the end of a long screwdriver against the hub housing (the part that doesn't rotate) and put the end of the screwdriver handle against your ear. You are making a simple stethoscope with the screwdriver. Then turn the wheel and compare the noise to the other side. A grinding sound may indicate a bad bearing. You may also feel some looseness if you grab the wheel in your hands and rock it back and forth.

Even if you hear the noise, you have to rule out the CV Joint first. To check the CV Joint, that's the axle joint under the convoluted rubber boot just inboard from your hub, first look for a torn boot and evidence of a lot of black grease all over. A torn boot would have allowed all the grease to come out and ruin the CV Joint. Even if the boot looks okay, try grabbing the joint in your hand with your hand spanning both sides of the joint (where the boot is banded) and, using your other hand, rotate the wheel back and forth about six inches. If there is play in the joint, you will feel it move in you hand that is on the joint. Compare this to the other side joint. A bad joint means an expensive axle replacement.

It is unlikely that the rumbling is the strut, but without hearing the subjective "rumbling" I can't say for sure. I don't know if regular struts can directly replace ECM struts. It is likely that the mounting points at some place in the suspension are the same for both types of suspension, but just how many suspension parts you have to replace is something you will have to get a factory service manual to find out.

Mr. Vivona

vivona · October 2002

A transmission that gets stuck in drive may indicate that the transmission has reverted to its "fail-safe" mode. When the transmission computer has detected a failure it will put the transmission in fail-safe and allow you to limp to the service department in drive.

The dealer should check the transmission computer codes for an error code that would indicate where the failure. Transmissions fail either due to mechanical, hydraulic or electronic reasons. Most likely, yours is an electronic problem and hopefully is just a bad sensor. Avoid a mechanic that simply wants to replace the transmission or computer without diagnosing exactly what has failed. I have personally seen where a mechanic recommended that a friend of mine needed a full transmission replacement when the problem was only a simple, inexpensive sensor. Replacing the sensor allowed the transmission to continue on for 120,000 miles. A lot of mechanics do not have the diagnostic skills to solve problems down to the component level, so they change out assemblies. That can get very expensive for you but does make money for the mechanic.

Mr. Vivona

Mitsubishi Diamante

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles