Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mitsubishi Diamante

24567…30

Comments

  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    While I don't disagree with your analysis, it is worth noting that a rental car is not usually a good or reliable way to judge a cars overall quality because more times than not, the rental cars are beat to death by the renters. So that trim pieces etc. are often beat up and abused. (OK anyone out there who denies thrashing their rental cars?)
  • mikeignasiakmikeignasiak Member Posts: 6
    I must say that I dont exactly agree with twoof1 about viewing rental cars as a poor comparison. Yes, renters do tend to beat the crap out of rental cars (the old adage that all rental cars are 4 wheel drive comes to mind) but I feel that the fact that they are tested "hard" is a good way to determine what the actual quality of the vehicle is. I spend a great deal of time behind the wheel of rental cars and can honestly say that most American cars on the road today are junk - especially in regard to fit and finish. They just dont hold up well past the first 6 months. On my frequent trips to Houston, I am often given a Mitsu Galant or Montero as a rental - what GREAT cars. Even after 25K plus rental miles these vehicles are consistently in great shape, lacking any notable defects in workmanship or performance. GM's on the other hand, as noted by Mr. Vivona are horrible. I have taken several Chevy Malibu's, Lumina's and Grand Am's back to the rental agency because I feared for my safety. Just my two bits....back to the grind.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I have rented Galants and have taken them places where cars shouldn't go, like down rocky roads where you had to jump out every so often and throw a big rock aside, or over 40 miles of washboard road surface, or in the deep sand leading down into Monument Valley. I have had excellent luck with Galants and a couple of Corollas, but most GM, Ford or Chrysler cars I have rented had problems.

    Oh, I forgot...The Grand Prix also had a leaking right headlight.

    I have thought about starting a topic on rental car experiences, both the cars and the companies. Does anybody think that would be a useful topic?

    Mr. Vivona
  • mikeignasiakmikeignasiak Member Posts: 6
    That would be a great topic. Im sure it would also be infused with a good deal of humor!

    I certainely would be happy to give my input - for example, how Avis attempted to kill me twice in a row by renting cars w/ faulty brakes.
  • toomanychoicestoomanychoices Member Posts: 18
    Thanks, Vivona for the suggestion on using Clay Magic to get the paint off my car. I'll look for it this weekend and tell you how it works.

    Susan
  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    I am certainly not defending GM's. I have rented many in the past most recently a Grand Prix like Vivona did. It was a rattle trap. However my post was to make a point about how people treat rental cars in general. Vivona in his follow up post even said he had abused his rentals like most of us do. I just think if you are indeed thinking about buying a car, or passing judgement on a car that a rental is not necessarily the most objective method of determining it's build quality. A rental will how ever give you a solid idea of it's ergonimics, performance, handling (with sloppy rental tires) and it's overall feel.
  • mpevznermpevzner Member Posts: 41
    If you have the money why bother with a Mitsubishi product? Mitsubishi is supposed to be cheap and crappy :) Cheap is actually good, and crappy is because that's what you've paid for :)
  • L8_ApexL8_Apex Member Posts: 187
    ...has been restored.

    Thanks,

    L8_Apex
    Sedans Host
  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    Very articulate and inteligent post. I'll just let that one stand on it's own merits.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Okay gang, I started a topic on rental cars and rental companies. See Smart Shopper topic 2374
  • shampton93shampton93 Member Posts: 3
    Vivona, I have a 99 Diamante. Today I place a round outdoor table in my trunk about 42 inch round. It was a perfect fix, I though. It took no effort to close the desk lid. I think the plastic wrap protecting the table got snagged in the Latch. Can you think of a way to open the trunk?? I tried anything.

    Thanks,
    Sidney
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    Sorry 2 hear your trunk problems.

    Worst case scenario...if you couldn't open the trunk with your key turned clockwise (keep it there) and pushing (forcing ???) the trunk lid up. Or using the services of a experienced locksmith fails...

    You might want to have a try of unhooking and remove the rear bench seat to gain access to the trunk and see whats the cause. You'll need a socket set to remove the rear seat.

    -C-
  • alexbrownleealexbrownlee Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me, if there is wiring for the absent speaker holes in the dash of my ES? I'd like to put speakers in, if i'm going to keep my car.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    If you are merely using the remote release or the key fob, then the security switch on the lid may have been snapped to the locked position. In that case you must use the key.

    If the key won't turn at all, then the linkage may be pinched by the table pushing against the trunk lining. Stopping the car abruptly to shift the table forward slightly may dislodge it. If the key turns but the latch doesn't let go, then the plastic may have become jammed in it. If there is enough extra space in front of the table, maybe the quick stop will slide the table forward and pull the plastic out of the latch.

    If all else fails, remove the rear seat to see if you can gain access. You'll have to look for the bolts that hold it in. The seat cushion must be removed first, then the seat back. However, you may find that the wall behind the seat is metal and you can't get access. If that is the case, you might have to drill an access hole large enough for you to send in a long piece of metal to pry the latch. Before doing that, look under the car to see if there are any snap out drain plugs that could give you a way to get to the latch.

    Another way to get a tool into the trunk may be through the speaker hole, but they usually are mounted from below, so that may not be possible.

    I have written this without actually checking my car. When I do and if I see something else that you can try, I'll let you know.

    Mr. Vivona
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Try popping out the speaker hole plugs and looking inside the dash. If you see a wire with a connector, you may have what you need. If there is wire there, you'll need to see if they terminate at the connector on the back of the radio and identify which pins they go to.

    If there is no wire, you can snake in your own harness through the speaker holes and dress it under the dash using cable ties. Then connect the other ends to your radio.

    What I don't know offhand is if the standard radio can take an extra set of speakers in parallel without loading down the amplifier. If they are in series, the amplifier won't be loaded, but the sound will be less.

    You could also call Crutchfield and tell them you want to buy dash speakers for your car and want their help in connecting them to the stock radio. They have information on all cars and can give you advice.

    Mr. Vivona
  • shampton93shampton93 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, guys for all your help. I took the car to Dealer (CARMAX) is past Monday, and the Server Manager got into the trunk in 5 minutes. He had to apply about 100 pounds of pressure on the trunk lid, over the key hole to center of car and when turn the key. Before taking it to the dealer I tried Stopping the car abruptly to shift the
    table forward to dislodge it downhill, uphill, around-hill and back around-hill NO LUCK. Thank goodness he was carefully not to dent to lid. Tables out, and trunk is in uses again.

    Thanks again for all your help.
    Sidney
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Sidney--I am glad you got the lid opened. I was about to recommend you try the "press lid down while turning the key" approach when I read your message that this solved the problem. Sorry to make you drive around abruptly, but I was hoping that the table would shift and solve the problem.

    After thinking about it more, I figured that the table was tight in the trunk and was lodged against the lid pushing it up and keeping the latch from releasing, even if the key was turned. By pressing down on the lid, you compressed the weatherstrip allowing the lid to move down about 1/4 of an inch which was enough to take the pressure off the latch.

    I did look at my Diamante and if you hadn't been able to open the trunk by any other means, it would probably have meant having to remove the license plate and drill two holes lined up with the latch mount. You would then attempt to unscrew the latch mounting bolts. Once opened, the small holes could be fixed with Bondo and since they would be under the license plate, paint repair wouldn't be an issue.

    What I did note is that the Diamante trunk is a very secure vault. It is very well sealed and there are no easy ways to gain access through existing holes. You are quite lucky that you problem was solved easily.

    I guess the lesson learned is beware of large things that "just fit" into the trunk.

    By the way, did you know an Acura TL has no trunk keyhole. If the remote release quits...
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    Well the Diamanti dreaded front brake warpage has just set in again, only 90 days after bringing them back for a second time to get the rotors returned. Will keep you posted on progress.
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    What area in the US do you live and what year is your 'D'?

    What sort of conditions do you driving eg.stop and go or usually good highway runs; dry road or rainy and muddy roads?

    -C-
  • dpompeidpompei Member Posts: 11
    I also have the recurring brake problems and have not found a solution.

    I have a 97 D. I live in the New England area. During warranty I had warped rotors repaired 5 times, with 2 different Mitsubishi dealers. Always came back. It's back now and I'm off warranty. I dread the fighting that I'll have to go through to get this damn problem fixed.

    I have been monitoring this board for over a year just looking for a solution. I am willing to use high performance, after market rotors just to solve this. Haven't seen any yet.

    There is definitely something wrong with the rotor /brake design, despite what Vivona writes. If factory dealers can't fix the problem, then it is a manufacturer's problem.

    Mitsubishi is hiding behind the dealers.

    I visited Mitsubishi design and engineering in Japan about 4 years ago (I sell automotive electronic components). I intend to use my Japanese contacts to find out more about this problem.

    How many more people out there have been having the brakes problems like us that have only been watching and posting? Please register and post, it only takes a minute as I have done.

    One observation that I have on the brakes is that if the majority of your driving is non-highway, or under 50 mph, you won't feel much of the brake vibration problem. The vibration felt, goes up exponentially as you try to brake from higher speeds. It's dangerous.

    I also drive a lot in Europe, on business, where highway speeds are greater than here, brakes used much more. I always wondered why Mitsubishi didn't sell the D in Europe, especially with the GDI engine. I suspect they knew that the brakes wouldn't hold up to European driving standards.

    Any help would be welcome.
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    I live in California and drive to and from work a total of 40 miles all highway, 6 days out of 7 a week. I cruise at 80-85 Mph and I have encountered sudden brake situations where the 'D' handles tremendously and ABS kicked in and I had total control in what would have been a crash situation.

    I also do not get the vibrations you talk about.

    As you seem a well travelled man, I'm curious in which highways in Europe did you drive? In what country and between which towns did you experience greater highway speeds than in the US?
    What was your car and cruising speed in those highways?

    -C-
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    Hmmmm... Camon and Dpompei seem to be very shy in replying back to me and giving me the details of their problem.

    Maybe I should ask Bohlen and Maury2 to do the reply back to me as their appearance on the discussion group seems to be a "mutually-exclusive" affair.

    With that I mean, one doesn't seem to hear much from Bohlen and Maury2 when new characters happen to appear with the same brake problems and wanting to recruit "real" people hopefully to express their disgust at the 'D's brake problems.

    Sigh... they try and try don't they?!

    -C-
  • dpompeidpompei Member Posts: 11
    1. The brake problems are real. If this website accepted image files, I would post each of the dealer service receipts to prove it.

    2. You didn't ask about my details, only about driving in Europe.

    I have driven in most of the major countries in Europe in rental cars and in client cars. In Germany, of course, there are no speed limits on the Autobahn when conditions are clear. I have driven and ridden at up to 145 mph on German roads. 100 - 110 mph is very common. In France, on tollroads, the speed limit is 140 kph (88 mph). It is common to cruise at 100 mph. In the UK, it common to cruise at 85-90 mph.

    3. The only reason I am here is to solve a problem: the brakes.

    I have seen a lot of mention on it here, and the dealers I've been to told me there is a problem. The last one used all the recommended equipment, procedures, torque etc. to true the rotors. It fixed the problem for the same temporary period of time. I have watched this happen 5 times on my 97 D. I've been driving for 34 years, lots of different cars, and I've never seen this sort of persistent brake problem before.

    The D is fine car except for the brakes. The only other problem I have had was the transmission chip problem.

    4. Why are you here on this board? The main reasons people come to these boards is for help on a problem, to research a possible purchase, or other research. If I had no problems, I would not be on this board.

    5. Once again, I encourage all owners that have had the brake problem to post here so that we can see the magnitude of the problem and hopefully find a permanent solution together.
  • maury2maury2 Member Posts: 12
    I strongly suggest than you seek some help; you seem to be one paranoid individual. If you are implying that the above poster and myself are one in the same; you are seriously mistaken. Get a grip, pal. I haven't felt the need to post lately because the 99 Diamante that I dumped is becoming a distant memory. The 00 TL that I now own has been a big improvement. The TL is quicker, quieter, has better fit and finish, a nicer stereo
    and is more comfortable on a long drive than the Diamante, IMHO of course. You should try reading the Diamante topic form the very begining and you'll discover that there have been many others reporting about the bad brakes. Hey, having my brake issues (vibrations) addressed at the dealer TIME AND TIME AGAIN was bad enough but I also had the transmission fail and the AC compressor fail in additon to may other rattles and fit and finish problems. I'm glad for you that you've had no problems, but I can tell you that I've spoken with many who have had problems; not everyone is as lucky as you are. I can also tell you that if I have problems with the TL that I will be posting in that topic but as of now, there is nothing negative to report.
  • maury2maury2 Member Posts: 12
    For those interested, check out topic numbers 1095 (Diamante) and 2892 (Diamante 2) in the archived topics section. There are many posts there from Diamante owners who complain about the brakes and other problems. There's also some helpful information along with some positives about the car too.
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    Maury2

    haaah...We've missed you!

    Each and everyone of you ;-)

    -C-
  • webjeff2webjeff2 Member Posts: 21
    Several months ago you had suggested the Hunter road force balancing machine for my friend's 99 Maxima with a vibration problem; he took it to the dealer and had the tires balanced on this machine and he no longer complains about vibrations, thank you. Here's my question; I am going to be buying new tires for my 99 Prelude (probably Yokohomas) for the stock 16 inch alloy wheels; what would be an acceptable run out for the new tires and is there any other info that I should be aware of before I have this done? Thanks in advance.
  • bohlenbohlen Member Posts: 21
    I guess there is no reason for me to reintroduce the famous "Top Ten Reasons Not To Buy A Diamante"? It seems like years since I disposed of the junker called '99 Diamante with a Luxury package (and an annoying "rattles galore package"
    at no extra cost).

    Now, ccancio, you are being extremely offensive to us, "the opposition" of low quality & value represented by Mitsu Diamante. There is no reason to believe that Maury is somebody else...I happen to be on his side too...
  • maclfmaclf Member Posts: 1
    I have not spoken much in this forum, but I have consistently followed the topics that have been discussed. Clearly, the level of passion regarding brakes has been the most volatile topic. The discussion winds its way back and forth between personal attacks and technical fix-its. Unfortunately, the contributions appear to be coming from fewer sources and the tension level of the postings have risen. The list runs the danger of having strong personalities dominate topics and discourage others from sharing posts. I don't believe that these individuals intended to dominate topics in this manner.
    This forum is not a true representative sample of all Mitsu opinion. It is not a valid sample for making determinations about mechanical failures of the Mitsu Diamante vehicle. When we share in this forum our comments are purely anecdotal, individual observations about our specific auto. No matter how heartfelt our complaints may be, they do not necessarily mean there is complete mechanical failure for the entire Mitsu line.
    Certain mechanical issues have been addressed by Mitsu as a result of numerous claims. These have resulted in Service bulletins. However, a small number of bulletins does not necessarily mean that the vehicles have been free of defects. I'm not sure we know what mechanical issues Mitsu has chosen to recognize. The level of candor by Mitsu service representatives may be as varied as the opinions held in this forum, but it shouldn't be. This forum could result in presentation of information that may point to trends regarding our vehicle. One would hope that Mitsu monitors lists such as this to gain information about their product's performance in the field.
    Hopefully the list is a source of help for those who are having problems/concerns. The list has some able contributors that are technically oriented and willing to help. Mr. Vivona comes to mind as a positive contributor. I have read his advice and checked it with other sources. I have found him to be reliable and helpful. More importantly, he and others like him have avoided the distraction of personal attacks.
    I hope this list will continue to offer all contributors a chance to share opinion, observations, and questions without feeling like one is venturing onto scorched earth.

    Maclf
  • houston7houston7 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Diamante ES and also experienced front brake pulsation. I did bring the car to Gillman Mitsubishi dealership in Houston and was told that the warranty only cover up to 10,000 miles ???. (Perhaps, that's why the Mitsubishi Corp representative said that there is no claim on brake problems. I guess, most of the time, the brake starts to pulsate after 10,000 miles.)

    Anyway, my intention in writing this message is to share with everybody my experience in fixing the problem. I replaced the front brakes with Powerslot rotor and Axxis pads. I have about 25,000 miles on the new parts and the brake still functions properly. You can find these parts at any perfromance shop. The rotor cost me $95.00 each, and the pads cost $45.00 for the set at a local store. You may find better deal through mail order. (I believe the Diamante shares front brake rotors and pads with the Eclipse.)

    Personally, I do not believe over-torqueing the lug nuts can cause any problem because the compressive load producing by tighten the nut is minimal in compare to the yield strength of the brake rotor. However, everybody is entitled to his/her opinion. I am not trying to discount anyone's idea bur rather having my input. I strongly believe that Mitsubishi representative just want to give us the run-around like when they tried to explain to me the power steering hose problem . (This is a recall and they could not even fix it with the new parts installed.)
    I torque the lug nuts (after replacing the new brake parts) the same way I have worked on any other cars and still did not cause the brake to pulsate.

    I wish everyone well and hope Mitsubishi will realize consumer's approval is just as important as any marketing strategy.

    Houston7
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    Wow,
    You guys make your "D" brake problems sound so much more serious than the current Firestone and Ford recall and the 1993-95 BMW V8 sulphur problem where the whole engine had to be replaced.

    Is there anybody out there who died yet from the "D"'s brakes failing or anything else for that matter?

    ...If so please feel free to register your input in this discussion group ;-)

    -C-
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Assuming that your wheels are all within lateral and radial runout, you want to be sure that the total radial runout of the mounted tire is less than .050" The Hunter GSP9700 can measure both the wheel runout and the tire runout, so if you have any vibration problems, get the tires rebalanced with the Hunter.

    You can measure radial runout of a tire by jacking the tire off the ground, then placing a fixed pointer just touching the center area of the tread (not in a groove) so that the pointer just touches the tire when the highest part rotates by. Then rotate the tire until the gap between the pointer and tire is the largest and measure the gap with a feeler gauge. I like to see it less than .040.

    Remember a tire can have low radial runout and still vibrate if the sidewalls have stiffness variances around the circumference. That's what the Hunter balancer can check out.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I do not deny that some Diamante owners have brake problems. I have not seen evidence that most do. But I certainly would be willing to help find the cause for those that are having problems. I wrote an extensive article on the subject and posted it on the web, but many people don't want to be bothered with finding a solution. Unfortunately, when your dealer can't find the problem, you often have to find it yourself. I have done that for over 30 years with many kinds of cars and many types of problems.

    Since I am not experiencing the brake problem with my Diamante, it is hard to determine what is happening to the cars of those that do have a problem. If any of you brake posters are experienced in mechanical repair, particularly brake repair, and want to help find the cause of the brake problem, I would like to hear from you. I will provide some easy things to measure and monitor to see what is happening. But I want someone that will be willing to stay with the diagnostic project and make all the measurements and report the results. The cost for the measuring tools around $20.

    Anyone interested?
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    In response to ccancio post # 73, I have a 98 D and I had a 92 D prior to it. I do mostly highway driving and have had trouble with the front brakes on both cars. I have contacted Mitsubishi on both vehicles and have all the repair invoices to document the problem (which I also sent to Mitsubishi). It's not until you have the problem with your D that you will come to appreciate the feedback posted on this board. My intent is not to complain, but to get the facts out so that the manufacturer will fix the damn problem on what is an other great car.
    As far as safety is concerned, my 92 D did not have antilocks, and with a full load of 4 passengers breaking on wet roads from highway speeds it was dangerous because of alternate front wheel brake fluctuation and resultant front end instability.
    Did you know that there was a NHTSA recall on D's manufactured from AUG 91 to Dec 93 ( Mfg recall #96V143002) to replace the front break hoses and I was never notified of it by Mitsubishi or the dealers even though I owned the car for 2 years after the recall?
    The goal of most contributors on this site is to provide factual data to get problems fixed and not to merely provide opinionated commentary. If you have factual solutions feel free to post them.
    Your comment that I am affiliated with any other person on the site is just plain wrong. If you went back through the site you would find my prior posts on the brake problem way before the appearance of the 2 individuals you mentioned. You would also find that I praised the vehicle on just about every other aspect except the front brakes.
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    >The goal of most contributors on this site is to
    >provide factual data to get problems fixed and >not to merely provide opinionated commentary.

    That's interesting- show me a discussion group on the 'net that does NOT have its basis on "...opinionated commentary." Everybody has opinions including yourself and you post them in this discussion group. An example of opinion is the quote I took from your last post.

    Regurgitated opinions/posts tests some peoples patience here including mine. When I see those posts queried and/or challenged and the original poster doesn't reply in a fair amount of time (say... 3 days!!!) one would fairly judge that that post was made by a "Troll" or somebody who posts to incite needless debate on bogus info.

    Even after all that stuff you wrote, you still haven't answered the question on what area do you live in the US and in what conditions you usually drive in (...snow etc)! Its hard for people like me (who have no problems with my "D") to comprehend posts like yours if you don't explain your environment. Is this break problem isolated on the East coast of the US, or maybe just snow prone areas ?

    After sending all your notes regarding the problem to Mitsubishi, did they reply back and if so what did they say?

    -C-
  • dpompeidpompei Member Posts: 11
    Thank you for posting. I am looking for a solution to the constant front rotors warping problem. Mine is a '97 D.

    Powerslot - Can you give me more information on what part number you used for the Powerslot rotors?

    I called Powerslot this morning after reading your post. Powerslot told me over the phone that they only have rotors up to the '96 D, none for the '97 and newer.

    Can you help me out a little more. I am very willing to buy better rotors on my own than the junk that Mitsubishi appears to be putting on. I have had 2 sets of factory front rotors on my car. They always warp after 6 to 8K miles, when new, and after being turned on all the latest equipment.

    Anyone know? Has Mitsubishi changed the front rotors, or any other front brake components in the '99 or '00 Diamantes?
  • camoncamon Member Posts: 98
    Response to #87. Some of us work and do not have time to get on the boards every day or week for that matter. My first 92D did not have any brake problems until after 90,000 miles then it could not be fixed by any dealer . I had reccuring problems until 200,000 miles when I disposed of the 92D and got a 98D. The 98D developed the same problem at 22,000 miles and cannot be fixed (at least through today). Mitsubishi on the 92D said it was a dealer problem and that the car was out of warranty and refused to get involved. On the 98D which was under warranty, they said they would call me to follow up and never did so I just wrote to them again and they have yet to respond. To answer your second question, I drive in the midatlantic area, but not near the coast. Very little if any snow or salt air. I have driven over 245,000 miles in D's and if they would get the front brake problem fixed they would have a damn good car. I hope you get the pleasure of getting your brakes replaced and run into the same problem so we can talk on the same level.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    In the past some of you Diamante fans have asked when the Diamante model will change.

    The Diamante is imported from Australia where it is called the Verada. Looking at the current Verada gives a hint of what they may export for a Diamante in the future. Though the 2001 model remains unchanged, there is supposed to be a facelift in 2002 or 2003.

    So...what does the new Verada look like? Visit the Mitusbishi Australia site and see:

    http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/verada_sedan/index.asp?page=vehiclespec&typeid=9&modelid=15
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/testdrive/
  • azmcraeazmcrae Member Posts: 2
    I went through the warped rotors thing three
    times on the front brakes of my '92 Diamante until I heard about the new(er) Raybestos QS (Quiet Stop) Ceramic brake pads. I called and they had just released a version for my application. I contacted Brake Masters here in Scottsdale, AZ and they ordered them and swapped them out for the existing ones under warranty - the difference which was about
    $70. I have not had ANY problems since and
    my D now stops quicker and I have almost no dusting anymore.

    They are more $$$ than normal brake pads but they
    are supposed to last longer and be much more
    resistant to heating up (important in Az!!!)

    The only production cars I know of that now
    have them OEM is Porche.

    If you are interested either check out the Raybestos site or check with a repair shop.
    I'm not sure if any other companies have
    released ceramics ones yet (I think some
    shops have put there house brand name on them)
    as Raybestos claims to have pionered them.

    Hope this helps some!!!
    Scott McRae
  • starlingstarling Member Posts: 1
    I have a "97 Diamante Ls. The last and most expensive mitsubishi made before discontinuing the line in 1998. Anyway, I have had brake problems with this thing from the outset. I have to pull the emergency brake handle all the way up for it to engage and when engaged still does not stop the car from moving--forward or backward. I've been to the shop many times, complained to MMCA and there were several fixes done. One because the hoses for the front brakes was to short, was kinking and causing sporadic stopping. The noise stopped; the brakes were a little better. But they still felt mushy when stopping in a non-panic way. Anyway, I had a lease and I owned a '94 I loved it.I just recently re-ended another car in front of me in a funeral procession that was able to stop very quickly, but I was not. However, I guess I can't blame it on the brakes, but, all the other cars in close proximity were able to stop without sliding. Of course they weren't diamante. I'm turning it in and walking away. However, I may get the Montero Sport 4WD SUV. Except for crashing reviews read pretty good. Don't expect to crash too many times. Anyway, the brakes, transmissions and A/C are notorious problems with this car. No One is paranoid. If You're lucky enough to get one that does not exhibit these problems,then great. Oh, Yes I too had to replace my transmission at 15000 miles. Great car , poor quality.
  • dpompeidpompei Member Posts: 11
    There are some people who post here that try to downplay the seriousness of the front rotor warping problem on Diamantes 97 and newer.

    Some facts gleaned from these boards:

    There appear to be more than 22 people who have posted about repeated front rotor warping problems, and the inability of Mitsubishi and authorized dealers to fix it. The factory and dealers continue to blame everyone but themselves and take responsibility, despite it being the overwhelming problem of topics posted here. This is statistically significant, as the number of people posting here is small, despite the number of posts. And some, I suspect, are just MMA plants trying to gently shift the blame everywhere else to postpone dealing with the problem, or hoping it will go away.

    Also, re: the suggestion to write to the President of MMA - one poster shared his experience about doing that, it got him nowhere, just more runaround.

    I searched through sample discussion threads here on Edmunds and found only one other model that has the same level of complaints about warping rotors: the Oldsmobile Alero 99. Please take a look at it by typing "rotors" in search topic, also look at the separate "Alero" topic to see the what happened and how it was fixed. GM, to it's credit, moved quickly to solve the problem. They changed the rotor design immediately, and upgraded the front rotors and pads on all cars with the problem, no questions asked, no blame on poor driving habits, no blame on poor mechanics!

    If only Mitsubishi could be as honest.

    Also, there are far more Aleros sold in the US than there are Diamantes, and yet our boards have a higher level of complaints on the rotors than the Alero. From this, I suspect the Diamante problem is more severe.
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    On post #94
    > And some, I suspect, are just MMA plants trying
    > to gently shift the blame everywhere else to
    > postpone dealing with the problem, or hoping it
    > will go away.

    And conversely you could be a Toyota or Acura/Honda plant trying to destroy Mitsubishi for market dominance, but I guess any good conspiracy theorist will never really know huh?

    The more you write the more you sound like our old buddy Bohlen!

    Talking about Bohlen... usually when he sees a poster supporting his 'D' brake rotor view he would jump at a chance to joun at the fun and gloat.

    Where are you Bohlen, past experience would have thought you'd eat this up!!!

    By the way at 8,000 miles, my 1999 'D' runs so sweet.

    See 'Ya

    -C-
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    #99
    >"THE HOST" is obviously devoid of any sense of
    >humor since most of my messages contain a great
    >deal of just that.

    Many readers, myself included, did not realise your posts were supposed to be construed as entertainment, but rather we were led to believe that they were serious accusations on the quality of the Mitsubisihi Diamante line.

    If this is so it would be hard to demarcate in your posts when factual data ends and sophomoric humour begins. In essence this revelation puts your entire posting history in dispute
    ( ...mon ami!)


    -C-
  • L8_ApexL8_Apex Member Posts: 187
    ...were removed because they contained name-calling, something that doesn't fall under civil-discourse as per the Participants Agreement. Actually... one post and a follow-up.

    Thanks,

    L8_Apex
    Sedans Host
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    Hello,

    Finally after many hours on the 'net and visiting many a car audio store, I have finally ended up with:
    Pioneer CDX-P1250 12 disk CD changer, $179 from http://www.MillionBuy.com.

    I could not easily source an adaptor for this to connect to the stock Mits/Pioneer head unit. The part number was supposed to be MITPIL from Periphials Electronics, but the local car audio shops in California couldn't contact them.

    Another outfit quoted me $70 just for the connector so because of this I opted to buy a new Pioneer head unit KEH-P690 ($141 @Ebay, List Price $250 ). This will make it possible for me to connect my new 12 disk CD changer via Pioneer's "IP bus". I couldn't connect it via the old DIN connector in the stock Mitsubishi.

    The KEH-P690 is the high end head unit with a casette rather than a cd player. I can connect the stock single CD player as an auxilliary so I won't be left with a gaping hole.

    I will use Mr. Vivona's helpful guide in disassembling the old stock radio and see how it goes.

    Mr Vivona as you obviously have already tried it, are all the audio wiring clearly marked and labeled and are the wiring easily accessable with some lenght to play with? is the wiring permanently connected ( which I then would have to cut?) or does it use plug type connectors?

    I will also have to lay the new IP bus cable from the dash and route it to the trunk. Have you tried this, any tips like upliftingthe carpet?

    I will give it a go this weekend!

    Many Thanks,
    -C-
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    ccancio--Each audio connector is different and all use connectors. There is enough slack to pull the audio unit out enough to get to the connectors. To get a connector to separate from the radio, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry it (carefully) out. Don't pull on the wires. Only pull on the connector.

    While you are in the dash, you may want to open the A/C control unit and unsolder the beeper that makes a beep each time you make an A/C adjustment. I found the beep a bit annoying for a sleeping passenger. The beeper is a small cylindrical component mounted on the controller PC board. If you are not skilled in PC board unsoldering, then try applying silicone glue into the sound hole on the beeper. That should at least make it a little quieter.

    If you don't want two CD players, you can replace the stock one with a bin. I would get a replacement one for a 92-96 Diamante from the dealer parts department (about $40). It has a nice smooth action door on it. The 97-00 bin doesn't have a door. To get the older bin to fit, you will have to shave about 1/8" off the front edge. I had the original bin in my 99 and changed it out for the older style and I like having the door on it instead of the open bin.

    Mr. Vivona
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    Mr. Aldo Vivona:

    Sometime ago you posted about buying a Garmin 3+ GPS unit. May I ask you opinions on it. I am considering a GPS unit, but I can't decide between the Garmin eMap, 3+ and StreetPilot.

    Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I went directly to the eMap due to size, price and the fact that it had very good base maps without having to buy the extra Mapsource software and CD.

    You need to decide based on price and intended use. The street pilot has a bigger screen, but it is also not a pocket device and costs a lot more. The III+ is also more costly than the eMap.

    I would recommend you visiting the excellent GPS review site http://joe.mehaffey.com/ You will find a link to "Low Cost GPS Hardware and Moving Map Software Reviews" that will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about mapping GPS receivers. Narrow your choices and visit a store that will let you demo a few models to see what you like the most.

    At the clearance price of $150 I paid for the basic eMap (not the $299 Deluxe model which includes the memory chip and data cable) I found the eMap met all my needs. If price and size was no object, the Color StreetPilot would be nice.
  • dpompeidpompei Member Posts: 11
    Hello all,

    My last post was removed because I questioned Ccancio's mental capabilities in a manner not acceptable to terms of service of these boards. I chided him for not reading my posts carefully. I was not, and am not, bashing the Diamante.

    I was, am, and will continue to look for solutions to the warped rotors that have occurred on my 97 D. Please look over my last posts here: #71, 74, 94,95.

    Despite Vivona's many offers of help, I do not think his approach is the correct one, letting Mitsubishi off the hook. And besides, I don't know Vivona from a hole in the wall, or what his agenda is.

    This I do know: Road & Track, a far more knowledgeable, and KNOWN source is much more credible than an unknown Vivona. Road & Track is accountable for their words. Vivona is not.

    As for Ccancio, his role seems to be to divert attention away from issues anyway that he can. Just study his posts.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles