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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    The problem is supposedly due to the blockage of drain holes causing water to accumulate, but I don't know all the details.
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    See posts 2525, 2523, 2443, 2439, 2260 and 2047. They might help you in tracking down the problem.
  • slepskjeslepskje Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 MAZDA MPV with 72k miles on it. This vehicle has the exhaust manifold integrated with the converter, the 2 can't be bought separately. It actually has 2 manifold/converter pipes, one onthe left one on the right. The one on the right has developed a hole (NOT a crack) in the pipe, in a wend near where the gas leaves the engine. 2 questions:
    1) Would this part be eligible for the 8 yr/80k emissions warranty? The converter box looks fine but you obviously can't replace the manifold pipe without pulling the converter
    2) How do I approach the dealer on this?
  • kellandkelland Member Posts: 1
    my 89' mazda mpv has 212k i pushed on the throttle and it had no power when i put it in drive or in reverse please help
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I'm confused with your problem. If you are stopped at a traffic light with the engine running, yes you must keep your foot on the brake or the car will move forward. This is typical of any automatic transmission. It sounds like you are taking the car out of gear (putting it into Park) each time you stop at light. So it takes you longer to move once the light is green, thus all the horn blowing behind you. No need to do that. Your car is operating jsut fine.
  • chevybarnchevybarn Member Posts: 3
    My 05 Mazda MPV with only 1200 miles is getting about 16 mpg (equal mix of highway & city driving). Is this normal? Also, dealer punctured a hole in the headliner while installing the roof rack. The new headliner has been on order for 2 months now. Is the dealer playing games with me? :mad:
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I don't know if they are playing games with you...but it sounds as if they are fairly incompetent. I could paddle a canoe to Japan, pick up that headliner, and be back in 2 months. May want to try another dealer if possible.

    19 mpg is the average combined city/hwy. See if you can get a highway only mpg(should be around 25mpg)...your city driving may be bringing it way down. Check tire pressure and driving habits(i.e slow starts and stops, no speeding etc)
    Engine may still be breaking in, so should improve some with another 3-4k. Have dealership check if still no improvement(when they get that headliner in)
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    Re your gas mileage. I bought a used 2001 MPV about a year ago and always believed the mileage was poor, but since I didn't buy it new, really didn't have a good reference. It would typically get 18-19MPG on the highway, sometimes 16MPG in the city. The problem was eventually diagnosed as leaking air intake manifold gaskets. Once these were replaced and the leaking was stopped, our highway mileage went jumped to almost 23MPG and the city is now about 20MPG. Keep in mind that the vehicle seemed to be driving normally otherwise, but we have also gained additional power with the system tightened up, as you can imagine. And, this vehicle had been to a dealership with other issues and no one "discovered" the leaking air intake, was not setting a code. It just deteriorated to the point that it began affecting my low idle, so I knew I had a problem of some sort.
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    Our 03 LX with under 40K miles has never brought more than 15 MPG, city or highway. Now that winter has cooled us off a little (Houston, TX) it's gotten a bit better, but nothing major. Will definatelly never get more than 260 miles to a full tank. I check tire pressure routinely, I use synthetic oil only. We've been through about five returns to dealers, they insist this is the normal mileage for an MPV. I've given up, looking at a Tahoe....... roomier, safer and believe it or not, much better mileage (16/22) than the MPV. :lemon: ???
  • sixpencesixpence Member Posts: 1
    HELP! Any advice would be appreciated.
    PROBLEM #1 - Our 2005 MPV has right sliding passenger door that will not shut automatically by itself. You know the problem, it doesn't sit flush and opens itself up. It's been in the Mazda shop (under warranty) four times and they can't seem to fix it. Any success stories out there on how Mazda fixed it?

    PROBLEM #2
    This is the one that has my wife freaked out. Periodically, the right side door will attempt to open by itself while on the road. Actually, you can hear the motor cycle through, but the built-in safety features prevent it from opening up on the road. Mazda claims they have never seen this or heard of it, but there is no denying it, the motor cycles when driving down the road, which tells me it is trying to open.

    I think the problems are related, but as you can imagine, the Mazda repairman can't seem to replicate the problem, or see it/hear it happening. ANY similar instances out there?
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Anyone out there try replacing the DRIVERS SIDE headlight yet?
    There are two corded wires that are taut and go in front of the rubber boot for extracting the bulb. I read the manual and there is no way that bulb is going to pop out the way it states. It's like they ran all the junk in the hood around after the bulb was put in and routed two large cords of wires right in front of the opening!

    Lovely, I'll need to PAY MY DEALER to install a stupid light bulb for $60 labor I'm sure!!

    Another stupid 'feature' on this vehicle that goes with the unbelievable bone-head design on the rear tailgate license plate lights. Wait until you need to replace them! The dealer went nuts trying to figure out that the inner panel had to be removed!! The lenses don't just 'pop out' like the manual states....again!

    Again, any experienced owners with this light replacement activity; please come forward. I'm all ears!!
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Member Posts: 90
    Dealer would be extreemly stupid if they did not try that yet, but try it anyway, to clean the contacts on the side of the sliding door and on the side of the B pillar as well (thos metal circular rods looking things).
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Member Posts: 90
    Quite crowded in the front for removing those headlight light bulbs, but the rear tale gate license plate lights pop out as described in the manual, but you have to be careful not to brake the plastic clip as I did, but nothing unfixable, I just used a tiny screw to fix that.

    image

    image

    image
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Thanks for the nice pics on the process. Again, the dealer had a problem removing those lenses and opted for taking out the inner panel on the tailgate to get at them. He did not charge for the replacement FOR THE FIRST TIME anyway!
    Yep, those headlamps are a pain!!
    Too bad newer cars are designed by great engineers who have never done the work themselves!! Job security for the mechanics for sure!
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    Whenever we have a foggy, high humidity morning, when the van is first started, it accelerates roughly in the lower gears, until the engine warms up. I don't know if the engine is missing or something else, but the vehicle is definetly under-powered initially until things heat up. Anyone else have this experience and been able to correct?
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    If you haven't done it already, a real mechanic would probably recommend new plug wires at a minimum and that it likely needs a full tune-up.
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    Thanks - just recently replaced the ignition wires, plugs and coil pack because of another unrelated issue.
  • dannyyodannyyo Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2003 MPV LX with the rear a/c & heat control. Just recently I've discovered that I can no longer control the temp of the air coming out of the rear from the front console. It seems that it only responds to the temp setting in the rear console. I can still control the fan level from the front for the rear vents but that's about all the control I have from the front. I know it used to work fine before, because my daughter would be in the captain chair and I'd give her either a/c or heat. Has anyone else experienced this prob. I should take it to the dealer since it's probably under warranty, but I've just been lazy. Also the A/C gives off a lot of smell when I first turn it on. It's an annoying smell, but it goes away after the a/c's been on for a little bit. Besides these 2 problems my mpv's been pretty reliable. Going on 34,000 miles.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    If your MPV was allowing you to control the temp from the front, that's an anamoly. The only control the front has is fan speed - and the AC since if it's on (or off) in the front, it's on (or off) in the back.

    RE: the AC smell: You can try cleaning the AC condensor with Lysol (or equivalent). I think there is a TSB for cleaning it. One way to help prevent it from happening is to turn off the AC a few moments before you arrive somewhere but leave the fan on to help dry the moisture that has accumulated.

    -Brian
  • kseedhousekseedhouse Member Posts: 2
    So there I was needing a vehicle in better shape than I had and a friend says You know..... you can have my Mazda MPV. It has oil in the rad so probably has a blown head gasket. Oil is fine, compression is fine, works well except for oil in rad. Ok I take the van home and learn the joys of replacing the Head gaskets. Lots of advice from mechanic friends and followed the Haynes manual explicitly. Made sure the timing belt was just right connected all the tubing just the way it came apart. Checked the heads for flatness replaced all the gaskets and have the engine all back together again.

    Engine won't start. Cranks well no spark. Engine codes say prc solenoid and no ignition signal. Test PRC solenoid all OK, no spark. Find disconnected shutter valve actuator reconnect. Zero out engine cpu. Restart good cranking no more engine error codes still no spark. New plugs, new High tension wires all connected in correct places. No spark from coil. Test coil. Coil tests OK.

    So what do I do now?
    Is the Igniter prone to breaking, Is the CPU prone to breaking. Can the Igniter be tested. Is there anything I can do without taking it in to a dealer as money is an issue.

    Any suggestions?
    :confuse:
  • kseedhousekseedhouse Member Posts: 2
    Hmmm not sure if your model has a distributor cap but if it dos sounds like it might be a moisture or condensation problem. I have a similar problem on my Volvo. I fixed it with a can of Ignition drying spray and then a can of ignition sealing spray from the local Canadian Tire. The first spray drys the contacts the second spray lightly seals the distributor cap and wiring to help prevent future problems. Happens a lot about 4 degrees C.
  • dannyyodannyyo Member Posts: 14
    Is it really true that you can only control the fan speed from the front? If so, good thing I didn't take it to the dealer. I'd been embarrassed. I try the Lysol solution on the condensor. Thanks for the advise.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Yep, that's all it can do. The switch is for the fan speed.

    This switch allows variable fan speeds for the rear air-conditioner.

    0 — Fan off
    REAR — Select the desired fan speed with rear air-conditioner control panel
    1 — Low speed
    2 — Medium speed
    3 — High speed

    Turing the AC on up front will turn on the AC in the back. If the AC is off up front, it is off in back.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Wondering how often you truly need to replace the plugs.
    They are platinum tipped and a buddy mechanic told me they should go for 100K miles! The manual/dealer wants me to replace them at 60K miles and it's running fine! My buddy stated that you should probably remove them to check the gap and reinstall!

    Also, anyone ever tried using an additive to clean the fuel injectors and fuel system? Again, my mechanic friend stated that once every 10K miles it is helpful to run a bottle of the 'chevron' fluid thru the tank. He stated that the 'dealer' wanting to charge 100 dollars to 'clean injectors' is a joke!

    Any opinions or ideas on these issues?
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    The 2000 MPV I recently traded in at 112K still had its original plugs, and it ran fine. The only thing I had done is replace the air filter a couple times.
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Member Posts: 90
    It was said at other place, that all dealer does is probably running some liquid through it too, or if they would trully clean it, they would have to take it all apart to clean it, which is time and work consuming.

    It was said, that just buying the bottle of the injector cleaner does good enoughy job to keep it clean, and it's way less expensive than doing it at the dealer, so go for it, they sell like 4pack at Costco of this stuff (in case you are a Costco member).
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    If you go to the local car parts store, look for the SeaFoam brand of cleaner. It can be added directly to the gas tank, or can be injected directly into the throttle body/air intake manifold if you really know what you are doing. Most of the other off the shelf cleaners I saw were strictly advertised as gas tank additive types. The guy a spoke to the store recommended this product as being superior. And no, it doesn't cost more!
  • green2gogreen2go Member Posts: 14
    Help! Anyone know a solution for this problem? My 2000 MPV has failed MD emissions inspection 5 times -- not for excessive emissions but because the van can't communicate with the test equipment. Briefly: after passing at least once, the van failed inspection because the on-board emissions monitor couldn't communicate with the test station equipment. Took it to the dealer, who said it was communicating fine. Failed inpection again and again until my case was "elevated" to a DEP person who said there had been a recall to reprogram the PCM (?). When I bought the van as a certified used vehicle, they said all recalls had been done -- obviously not. Got the recall done. Failed again. All the emissions folks could offer was a waiver so I would be legal until June, when I fully expect the van to fail again. What should I do? Obvious answer is to go back to the dealer, but they've been of zero use so far...don't see any reason to think that will change.

    Other than that, we love the van. It has about 60,000 miles on it, mostly trouble free, though we've had to replace a couple of obscure parts (who knew it had a clock spring?).

    Thanks in advance...
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    A 2003 post in another MPV forum mentioned the same problem, but it was apparently due to the test station not having the proper software to communicate with the MPV. I doubt that this would be the case here in 2006, but might be worth asking.
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Member Posts: 90
    yah, just try to get the smog terst done in other place if you were going to the same place over and over before, the problem could be on their side
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    Yeah - watch where you take it. One shop a couple of years ago came out and told me that "Your cooling fan failed the test and..."
    "Really?". I pointed out there were two radiator fans that were thermal electric and I seriously doubted his emissions computer really knew that.
    "Oh.."
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Recently, a local tire dealer started promoting Nitrogen air for tires; to make them run cooler, last longer, better mileage, less chance of leaking air, etc. Is this for real?
    They want to charge $2 per tire to flatten them and fill them with NITROGEN. Does anyone have experience with this in their tires and if so, has mileage improved along with the ride and wear on the tires? Is it worth the extra money to do this?
  • dave_matdave_mat Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Can you please let me know how much it cost you to get it "leaking air intake manifold gaskets" fixed. I get only 16 MPG in city and about 20 on hwys.

    I also have noise issues while reversing the van in cold engine. This started after I got the serpentine belt replaces [model LX 2000, 45K miles] - any thoughts?

    Considring that this van is used for 2 miles a day appox, it is asking for too many $$$$'s. :cry:

    Thanks Dave.
  • crissmancrissman Member Posts: 145
    My understanding is that the pure Nitrogen will expand less, thus pressure is more stable. This, I suppose, could result to the benefits mentioned. Don't know why there would be less chance of leaking, unless it has something to do with the N being drier. Personally, I'd save my money.
  • manuel9manuel9 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Dave,

    I recently bought a 2006 Mazda MPV and have about the same gas mileage? I haven't taken it in to any dealer or auto repair shops yet. Did you have any resolutions to the leaking air intake manifod gaskets and was that the problem?

    Any input would be much appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Manuel
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    there are codes specific to mazda/mpv that indicate a cooling fan issue.
  • cyclone5cyclone5 Member Posts: 4
    I have 2000 MPV LX model. Recently, I heard brake noise from the front wheels. Then, I brought it to two service centers (one was Mazda dealer shop and the other was service center). But, there was nothing wrong in brake system. Then, just check-up charge was imposed. But, still noise from brakes when I push the pedal. I don't want to spend just check-up money, again. Any suggestion?
    Thanks much in advance.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I'd call the dealers back and ask for a better explanation
    on why you are getting brake noise...which is not normal. Did they test drive your MPV? Did you just have new pads put on? Is so...they may be seating. Or, the brake pads are going bad.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    What kind of brake noise were you hearing? A squeaking (squealing) or a grinding noise. I have a light squeal when I depress the brakes. The mechanic mentioned I had a "hot spot" on my rotors from the ceramic pads. The ceramic pads caused a part of the rotors to glaze. they could grind it out but he was unsure if there was enough thickness in the rotors. He suggested that it may grind itself out and that there was no safety concern. Just the irritating squeal.

    My guess is if your mechanic didn't try to sell you brakes or rotors, you ar probably fine.
  • redfanredfan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 MPV that started to have a intermitten starting problem about two weeks ago. I have done a complete tune-up replacing plugs, rotor button, distributor cap, wires, fuel filter etc. i still had t5he problem and a friend suggested trying the coil because it sopunded like it wasnt getting spark. I replaced the coil and am still having the same problem. What the van does is it will cut off while driving or idling then it will not start for anywhere from ten minutes to a few days. It will sound like it is trying to start but never actually turn over. any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • rnjdrnjd Member Posts: 1
    Hi all-

    I drive (and have for almost 5 years!)a 2000 MPV ES. We actually bought the MPV brand new in 2001; our warranty expires this month.

    Given that we live in the Rust Belt, my husband ran the MVP through the car wash a couple of weeks ago. As he wiped the windows off, he noticed actual rust on the passenger side C-pillar (at the base of the passenger window in the middle) and the black primer bubbling on the C-pillar on the passenger side behind the driver's seat. We've taken the van to our local Mazda dealer, who purportedly has never seen anything like this.

    I note in a search of prior columns, some mention of a couple of cases of rust in similar areas. Any other reports out there? What was the cause? Is this an electro-plating issue?

    Thanks for the help; need to start pushing the dealer to get his information back from the "factory".
  • cyclone5cyclone5 Member Posts: 4
    Thank both jipster and dtownfb.
    Brake pads have been changed, although it looked O.K. Then noise was gone. Mechanic said that the previous pads got bad quality. By the way, mine got hail damage on the entire body. I haven't got the estimate. It's possible to get total loss, although I hope not. Thanks again.
  • bertie1bertie1 Member Posts: 2
    I was in the process of replacing my brakes this weekend and realized that one of the front calipers was seized. After ordering two and pulling the wheels, I found one of the boxes was missing the hardware. Finally got all the parts together today. After pulling the wheel again, the caliper box only comes with half the caliper(with the pistons) and a kit to rebuild the part of the caliper that attached to the van itself. Should these not be sold together? How do I separate the two parts without breaking off bolts? Do I have to order the other part as well?
  • misterincmisterinc Member Posts: 1
    Have you seen this service bulletin

    http://www.mpvclub.com/tsb.php?id=167
  • lcheneylcheney Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 MPV that has been having an intermitten starting problem...it has gone on now for over a month. It just wont start immediately after being turned off. It too will eventually start - any where from 15 minutes to a day later. There is no pattern that we can find. It sounds like it isn't getting any gas. The fuel pump is a suspect, but we never have any trouble when it is running...Any suggestions...
  • yvonneothonyvonneothon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 MPV. I do not know where to begin. When i first start the car, it kind of revs up. Also, it hesitates when i go up a hill and revs up too, or when i am accelerating. also, wheni put the a/c on, the car shudders too, like it wants to die. what is going on?? the van just jerks around sometimes. :cry:
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    Not so fast with the fuel pump. Some models, and I must say I am not sure about Mazda, have a dual circuit/dual voltage fuel pump. Fuel is pumped at a different pressure when the engine is being crancked and when the engine is running. If the crancking ciruit is faulty, you might have found your problem. I had a similar incident, the pump went dead. When we took it out of the tank, it was working again, just on it's own and is still working about a year later...... knock, knock, knock!!! Good luck!
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    I have a 2003 LX MPV. I have noticed that the blowing power of the air conditioner is getting lower and lower. We live in South East Texas with extreme heat and humidity. Even though the air is ice cold, the ammount of air coming out of the dash vents is barely enough to keep the van decently cool. If it would have always been that way, I wouldn't think anything is wrong, but now its getting lesser and lesser. One can hardly feel a difference between 1 and 4. Thanks for any suggestions! :sick:
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Have you ever changed the cabin air filter (assuming your van has one)? Maybe it is getting clogged.
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    No I have not, didn't even know it one....... do you know where I can find it? My first guess would be behind the glove compartment? Thanks for your help!
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