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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
1) Would this part be eligible for the 8 yr/80k emissions warranty? The converter box looks fine but you obviously can't replace the manifold pipe without pulling the converter
2) How do I approach the dealer on this?
19 mpg is the average combined city/hwy. See if you can get a highway only mpg(should be around 25mpg)...your city driving may be bringing it way down. Check tire pressure and driving habits(i.e slow starts and stops, no speeding etc)
Engine may still be breaking in, so should improve some with another 3-4k. Have dealership check if still no improvement(when they get that headliner in)
PROBLEM #1 - Our 2005 MPV has right sliding passenger door that will not shut automatically by itself. You know the problem, it doesn't sit flush and opens itself up. It's been in the Mazda shop (under warranty) four times and they can't seem to fix it. Any success stories out there on how Mazda fixed it?
PROBLEM #2
This is the one that has my wife freaked out. Periodically, the right side door will attempt to open by itself while on the road. Actually, you can hear the motor cycle through, but the built-in safety features prevent it from opening up on the road. Mazda claims they have never seen this or heard of it, but there is no denying it, the motor cycles when driving down the road, which tells me it is trying to open.
I think the problems are related, but as you can imagine, the Mazda repairman can't seem to replicate the problem, or see it/hear it happening. ANY similar instances out there?
There are two corded wires that are taut and go in front of the rubber boot for extracting the bulb. I read the manual and there is no way that bulb is going to pop out the way it states. It's like they ran all the junk in the hood around after the bulb was put in and routed two large cords of wires right in front of the opening!
Lovely, I'll need to PAY MY DEALER to install a stupid light bulb for $60 labor I'm sure!!
Another stupid 'feature' on this vehicle that goes with the unbelievable bone-head design on the rear tailgate license plate lights. Wait until you need to replace them! The dealer went nuts trying to figure out that the inner panel had to be removed!! The lenses don't just 'pop out' like the manual states....again!
Again, any experienced owners with this light replacement activity; please come forward. I'm all ears!!
Yep, those headlamps are a pain!!
Too bad newer cars are designed by great engineers who have never done the work themselves!! Job security for the mechanics for sure!
RE: the AC smell: You can try cleaning the AC condensor with Lysol (or equivalent). I think there is a TSB for cleaning it. One way to help prevent it from happening is to turn off the AC a few moments before you arrive somewhere but leave the fan on to help dry the moisture that has accumulated.
-Brian
Engine won't start. Cranks well no spark. Engine codes say prc solenoid and no ignition signal. Test PRC solenoid all OK, no spark. Find disconnected shutter valve actuator reconnect. Zero out engine cpu. Restart good cranking no more engine error codes still no spark. New plugs, new High tension wires all connected in correct places. No spark from coil. Test coil. Coil tests OK.
So what do I do now?
Is the Igniter prone to breaking, Is the CPU prone to breaking. Can the Igniter be tested. Is there anything I can do without taking it in to a dealer as money is an issue.
Any suggestions?
:confuse:
This switch allows variable fan speeds for the rear air-conditioner.
0 — Fan off
REAR — Select the desired fan speed with rear air-conditioner control panel
1 — Low speed
2 — Medium speed
3 — High speed
Turing the AC on up front will turn on the AC in the back. If the AC is off up front, it is off in back.
-Brian
They are platinum tipped and a buddy mechanic told me they should go for 100K miles! The manual/dealer wants me to replace them at 60K miles and it's running fine! My buddy stated that you should probably remove them to check the gap and reinstall!
Also, anyone ever tried using an additive to clean the fuel injectors and fuel system? Again, my mechanic friend stated that once every 10K miles it is helpful to run a bottle of the 'chevron' fluid thru the tank. He stated that the 'dealer' wanting to charge 100 dollars to 'clean injectors' is a joke!
Any opinions or ideas on these issues?
It was said, that just buying the bottle of the injector cleaner does good enoughy job to keep it clean, and it's way less expensive than doing it at the dealer, so go for it, they sell like 4pack at Costco of this stuff (in case you are a Costco member).
Other than that, we love the van. It has about 60,000 miles on it, mostly trouble free, though we've had to replace a couple of obscure parts (who knew it had a clock spring?).
Thanks in advance...
"Really?". I pointed out there were two radiator fans that were thermal electric and I seriously doubted his emissions computer really knew that.
"Oh.."
They want to charge $2 per tire to flatten them and fill them with NITROGEN. Does anyone have experience with this in their tires and if so, has mileage improved along with the ride and wear on the tires? Is it worth the extra money to do this?
Can you please let me know how much it cost you to get it "leaking air intake manifold gaskets" fixed. I get only 16 MPG in city and about 20 on hwys.
I also have noise issues while reversing the van in cold engine. This started after I got the serpentine belt replaces [model LX 2000, 45K miles] - any thoughts?
Considring that this van is used for 2 miles a day appox, it is asking for too many $$$$'s.
Thanks Dave.
I recently bought a 2006 Mazda MPV and have about the same gas mileage? I haven't taken it in to any dealer or auto repair shops yet. Did you have any resolutions to the leaking air intake manifod gaskets and was that the problem?
Any input would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Manuel
Thanks much in advance.
on why you are getting brake noise...which is not normal. Did they test drive your MPV? Did you just have new pads put on? Is so...they may be seating. Or, the brake pads are going bad.
My guess is if your mechanic didn't try to sell you brakes or rotors, you ar probably fine.
I drive (and have for almost 5 years!)a 2000 MPV ES. We actually bought the MPV brand new in 2001; our warranty expires this month.
Given that we live in the Rust Belt, my husband ran the MVP through the car wash a couple of weeks ago. As he wiped the windows off, he noticed actual rust on the passenger side C-pillar (at the base of the passenger window in the middle) and the black primer bubbling on the C-pillar on the passenger side behind the driver's seat. We've taken the van to our local Mazda dealer, who purportedly has never seen anything like this.
I note in a search of prior columns, some mention of a couple of cases of rust in similar areas. Any other reports out there? What was the cause? Is this an electro-plating issue?
Thanks for the help; need to start pushing the dealer to get his information back from the "factory".
Brake pads have been changed, although it looked O.K. Then noise was gone. Mechanic said that the previous pads got bad quality. By the way, mine got hail damage on the entire body. I haven't got the estimate. It's possible to get total loss, although I hope not. Thanks again.
http://www.mpvclub.com/tsb.php?id=167