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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I just bought my MPV (2002) on Saturday and looked in the owner's manual for the change-out procedure but haven't found it yet. It's easy to do on my Elantras, I am hoping it is easy on the MPV. Maybe a long-time owner can point us in the right direction.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    I recently changed the cabin air filter on my Buick. It was horribly clogged...but didn't seem to help air flow out of vents much. Which was perfectly fine to begin with.

    But here are the instructions per another MPV web site.
    1)Remove the glovebox
    2)Locate the filter box on the right side of opening
    3)Open the filter box lid by pulling on the clip on the left
    4)Remove the old filter element.
    5)reinsert the new clean filter in reverese order of removal.

    The filter is hydrostatically charged, so only open when ready to insert.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That is very similar to how it works in my Elantras, thanks.

    I guess you wouldn't want to perform this service at a gas station, eh? :surprise:
  • mpvdadmpvdad Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if you can put 2003 mpv seats inot a 2000 mpv--thanks
  • mpvdadmpvdad Member Posts: 3
    A little more info sorry about typo in prior note, i have a 2000 MPV and i need to replace the right front seat, i have found seat sets out of other mpv's for good prices, i need to find out what other model years will go into the 2000 mpv. I have access to a set of 2003 seats. thanks
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    OK, I removed the cabin filters (2) and man, yes, now the air flows again. I have not replaced them with new ones since I am only going to get them today, but the difference is amazing! I tried to blow air through the used filters (cheapy me!) but it only destroys them. Hopefully the new ones will not restrict too much flow, we are already in the 90's...... Thanks a bunch for the tip!! :D
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    WOW...sounds great. A nice simple fix. Good suggestion backy. ;)

    Noting that you mentioned being a cheapy(me too), there is a "homemade" cabin filter recipe from another MPV web forum. From what I recall it involved plastic mesh and a furnace filter.(probably $5-$8 in materials). How much are the new OEM(?) cabin filters crildeo?
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • dmckaydmckay Member Posts: 3
    Well, how about the very small holes/leaks that seem to be developing in the manifolds? There is a TSB on this matter. Strikes me once a company does a TSB that should be evidence that enough of the cars manufactured have the problem, thus a manufacturing defect should be deemed applicable. I personally resent having to eat the cost to repair a problem that Mazda is aware happens in their cars because of their spec decisions during manufacturing. would like to hear back from others about this problem and their resolution experiences-- ie cost of repairs and whether repairs were covered.
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    The two filters cost about $ 30 (Original Mazda - Auto Zone had them for $ 28 but not stocked), changing time is literally less than two minutes. It now blows so hard and fresh, I honestly don't recall ever running the AC on the 1 position, as a matter of fact, 4 was common for the first half hour and 3 thereafter.
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    How do you know your vehicle has the leaks in the manifold? I have heard a lot about this problem with Mazdas, but would a CEL code show lean mixtures? Many suspect the leaks but I have yet to understand how to detect them. I have been told that my low mileage problem (15mpg city and highway) could be related to leaking intake manifold. Another TSB Mazda has and is not covered by any kind of recall is the transmission software. Gear slamming is a well known mistake by Mazda and once out of warranty they will charge around $800 to update the software.
  • rickyheyrickyhey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 MPV and I just change the driver side speaker and I couldn't hear a word from the speaker all I can hear is the bass sound.I wonder why is it like that.
    does anyone had an idea?
  • dmckaydmckay Member Posts: 3
    To be 100% honest I don't know. My mechanic brother says the sound I hear sounds like a manifold problem. My regular mechanic suggested that there was a hole or leak somewhere, but he was unable to locate it becasue as soon as the car heats up it closes... or something along those lines. My husband located the TSB and I think, from the TSB description, that is the problem. In the end, I won't know until I shell out the money to Mazda Service to have them take a look. I will say, the TSB was from October 2004 and it invovled all Vin numbers for 2002-2004 Mazda MPVs.
  • kburgerkburger Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 2004 White MPV and have recently noticed that there are little rust spots all over it. I found a service bullentin for iron particle damage on line that includes 2004 MPVs. They offer a decontamination kit free of charge, but say that if it doesn't work a new paint job won't be covered under warrantly as it is "environmental" damage. My husband had a white van for 5 years, and now has a different van that is also two years old. Neither one of them have this happening to the paint. Also, my van is garage parked about 75% of the time. Anyone have any experience with this problem.

    Thanks!
  • lcheneylcheney Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much my mechanic says he thinks you're right!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i assume your treble and bass controls are in the middle, your R/L and F/B faders are in the middle:

    take the speaker out of the passenger side and install in the driver's side. If only bass...probably the radio needs to be replaced.
  • rogerrabbitrogerrabbit Member Posts: 11
    My 2002 MPV transmission appears to be slipping as OD is engaged - also when accelerating when in OD and transmission goes down to 5th gear. Otherwise shifts fine - no harshness or slippage (that I can detect) in other gears. Currently has 72,000 miles - fluid was replaced with synthetic fluid at 48,000. Color and levels look OK. If anyone has any experience with similar issues, would appreciate some feedback - am I looking at big dollars here and is it time to trade away this potential problem.
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    Just passing through with a 4 year update on my 02 MPV. I had an oil leak from around the oil pan that the dealer fixed under warranty. The dealer replaced the oil pan gasket to fix the problem. The MPV has been trouble free otherwise. Knock on wood!
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Anyone have this problem, or nuisance thing, when steering at low speeds thru parking lots, etc., there is a creaking sound coming from the steering column...?
    Only noticeable at slow speeds, like when parking or turning at low speeds - after engine is warm.

    Any ideas what that could be? The dealer claims 'normal'.

    Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Don't know what it could be. But, it doesn't sound "normal" to me...in that I have never had that happen with my MPV, or read about it happening to anyone elses MPV.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    I might be biassed, but more and more often do I see the broken record line by Mazda dealerships. I have an '03 MPV that does not bring more than 15mpg, dealers in town say its normal. Our AC filter (cabin) was so badly clogged up that on 4 you would get less air out than normally on 1. Dealer said it was normal for MPV's that year, didn't even make the effort of selling me the parts. Pretty disappointing ........ sorry to hear about your creaking problem but even sorrier for Mazda the way they are just blowing away technical problems on their fleet.
  • davehenrydavehenry Member Posts: 8
    Hello:

    Mazda seems to have a problem backing their products when it comes to service problems. In any case, my 03' MPV get at best 23.5 mpg on my daily commute (mostly highway miles @65 mph). I get around 21 mpg if I travel at 75mph.

    You are in need of a services dept that cares.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Impressive figures on mileage there!
    I generally get 18 around town and 22 on the highway.
    I try to go light on the gas too.

    Yep, I think SERVICE is a key thing here and to find the right one to go to! We are limited in the Twin Cities, so we get stuck with location issues that may not be the best for SERVICE.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Who have you used for service? Anyone better than others?
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    I have used two dealerships here in Houston, one of them is JH (I'm not sure I am allowed to mention their full name here). I am aware there are other ones, but with Houston traffic, they are just too far away. It really gets me that for vehicles that are under warranty and have such an obvious problem as we do (15 mpg), there is nothing to be done about it. Dealers know their way around lemon laws, so thats not an option either. Someone pointed me towards leaking intake manifold gaskets, well, if I change them I will nill my warranty and the dealer won't change them because they say 15 mpg is normal. To answer tour question, I did not notice any difference between the service philosophies amongst dealerships.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Thanks, but I was specifically asking tcc21 because they live in the same city I do.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    I use the Polar Bear Express on the north side since it's the 'closest' to me..not really, but my other option is BURNSVILLE and that's a haul from the east metro. When I bought this thing, there was another dealer on the Bloomington Strip that no longer exists...it wasn't TOO bad to get to.

    They're nice enough at the Polar Bear store, but I know they are greasy as any of them when you get down to the issues!! Everything is 'normal'; from the $400 60K check in to the squeaky steering wheel to the creaking front end when it's below 30 degrees! It's all just a normally and I'm being too picky! Turn up the radio is what they say!!

    I think the Burnsville location would be a better dealer since they are more noted locally and deal with MAZDA's ONLY! Unlike the Bears on the north! If you live in the south metro, they would be worth it! I have never gotten there since the distance is not convenient.

    Hope that helps. TCC
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I don't think Mazda service centers are the only ones that use the "normal" claim. More and more manufacturers are using it to avoid coviering warranty items.

    Also, in defense of the dealership, there are so many variables that determine the gas mileage. where do you start?

    If I was getting that bad gas mileage, I would check a few basic items like the air filter, tire pressure and the fluids. Then I would start tracking each tankful of gas using a small notepad. Very simple: Date, Odometer reading, miles between fill-ups, gallons of gas, MPG. this way you can see exactly what your MPG is and do a quick analysis of the type of driving and gas mileage. I've done this with my last few cars. It only adds a minute at the pump.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Thanks, I do live closest to Walser Mazda in Burnsville, although Morries is not too far from me either.
  • 321skippy321skippy Member Posts: 1
    I was reading your issue-
    did it get fixed? what was the solution?
  • pernstpernst Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    Recently I have been hearing a very faint electronic beep when I depress the brakes. Doesn't happen very often, just every now and then. Anyone know what this is? You can barely hear it. Can't find anything about it in the owner's manual.

    2005 MPV, 27,000 miles

    Thanks!
    Pete
  • pernstpernst Member Posts: 2
    Actually, I just checked my brake fluid and it is low. Could this cause the "beep"?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Top off the brake fluid and see if it still beeps.
  • mbaitymbaity Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a similar problem. Does anyone know what causes this?
  • jimhefpghjimhefpgh Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 MPV with 75,000 miles. Changed the spark plugs about 3 months ago. That didn't fix the hesitation I get when accelerating. Actually the hesitation is there just about all the time. It feels like the engine is missing a beat every so often-hiccupping. The check engine light has been on for a while also. I have read about similar problems from other members on this forum - but have yet to see how they actually got it fixed.

    I remember reading one posting about a new coil pack fixing it.

    I'm trying to learn all I can before taking it to the dealer.

    Is there just one coil pack or is there six of them? How much does one cost?

    Thanks! This is a great forum!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Go to an automotive parts store and ask them to read the codes and post it on this forum. Someone will be able to help you.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Reading the codes is a good idea to help determine that it is indeed the issue with the coils (individual ones too). Did you have the PCV recall performed - if not, that could cause hesitation and a CEL as well.

    Elsewhere on the 'net I have read of a few owners replacing just the rear coils and not needing to do the fronts just yet. You may be lucky and only have one coil acting up, so you could try replacing one at a time as well.

    -Brian
  • dannyp3dannyp3 Member Posts: 2
    FOR THE LAST THREE YEARS I HAVE HAD MY DEALER TAKE CARE OF ALL MY ALIGNMENT, THIS TIME I TOOK IT TO SEARS AND I WAS SHOCKED TO HEAR THAT MY REAR ALIGNMENT WAS OUT OF WACK. SO I WENT THROUGH ALL MY PAST ALIGNMENT RECORDS, AND THIS IS WHAT I FOUND.

    YEARS TOE LEFT REAR TOE RIGHT REAR DONE BY

    2003 + 0.24 DEG + 0.10 DEG DEALER

    2004 + 0.28 DEG + 0.10 DEG DEALER

    2005 NO READING GIVEN TO ME DEALER

    2006 + 0.57 DEG - 0.36 DEG SEARS

    (SPECIFIC RANGE - 0.04 DEG TO + 0.32 DEG)

    AS YOU CAN SEE IT HAS BEEN GOING OUT OF WACK EVERY YEAR. WHEN I WENT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE IT FIXED I WAS GIVEN CRAP ON THE ALIGNMENT, AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY CANNOT FIX IT. THE CAR HAS NEVER BEEN INTO ANY ACCIDENTS, OR ANY MAJOR BUMPS, OR HIT ANY CURBS. ANY ADVISE GIVEN WILL BE VERY APPRECITED.

    P.S. ALSO MY THRUST ANGLE SHOWS + 0.46 DEG
  • viaductsviaducts Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I'm interested in knowing which componets to remove and in which order. :) I'm hoping to change the spark plugs tomorrow.

    Thank You
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    Been a while since posting here. I'm always afraid to see what the latest problem is with this unit! I still have my squeeky steering wheel issue and learning to accept that it's just normal.

    2 things.
    Anyone had a period of rough running and CHECK ENG. light come on after driving in severe rainstorms? This has happened to me 3 times now. Heavy rains and all of a sudden it starts to shudder and run rough; chk. eng. light comes on. After a day of drying out all is normal again!

    Has anyone noticed the sizable loss of power when using the AC on their MPV? I certainly do! Feels like it has no guts at all; need to thrust the gas just to get up to cruising speeds of 65 MPH. When I shut the AC off it seems just fine. Mine has 65K on it now. Almost reminds me of the days of having an old 4 cyl with air and how it would drag the power down. I thought those days were gone with this V6 engine!
  • mazda01mazda01 Member Posts: 1
    have a 2001 mpv lx when i shift into rev the trans shacks and shutters till i put i in forward anybody have the same problem and how did you fix it help :confuse:
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Have you had your check engine light checked for codes on the shudder and run rough problem?

    I have no power loss when using AC on my 2004 MPV.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    I seem to remember a similar post on another MPV forum about problems after a rainstorm, and believe that it had something to do with a faulty seal around the coil packs (if it is 2002+ model), causing a water seepage. It had photographs etc., which showed the corrosion. Sorry, but Edmunds rules will not allow me to provide a link.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    No I have not because the light goes off after a day and I'm not close to a dealer to do the code check....darn!
    I would need to be driving in the rainstorm and pull into the dealer. I think it has something to do with the coil issue...is there a service bulletin on this??

    Thanks, TCC
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    isn't one of the tests using a spray bottle willed with water while the engine is idling? ;)
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    That's an obvious and interesting activity to see when it happens. I will give that a try this coming weekend. Thing is, I'd rather not have a coughing car for a day or so when I really need it...but it's the only way I'll find out what the problem is. I could also just call my local friendly dealer and see what 'normal' reply I get from them this time!!
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    TCC, I'm not sure, but I believe it is not necessary for the check/service engine light to actually be on for the dealership to check it. If the light comes on, then the code for the malfunction is stored in the vans computer. So, even if the light goes off before getting to the dealership...the stored codes can still be read.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The codes should still be stored. You can go to most auto parts stores and they can read the codes for free. Some even give you a print out of the code.
  • tcc21tcc21 Member Posts: 69
    That sounds like a better plan. Would Checker Auto or Auto Zone be ones that could do this for a person? Somehow, I don't see these people able to go under the hood and work on this issue? They're more behind the counter types....??
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Autozone read the codes on my Buick Regal a few weeks ago when it was running rough(check engine light had come on)
    The Autozone salesman didn't go under the hood, they just attached the reading device to something under my dash...took about 30 seconds. I don't know if they would need to "go under the hood" on the MPV.

    Whatever the diagnostic shows, write it down and research to see if any further diagnostics is needed. I went to Autozone with my Buick, when they tested it my mass airflow sensor came up with a maulfunction. When I took it to the dealership to get it fixed, the dealership stated the diagnostic fee was $89.I stated I already had it diagnosed at Autozone. They stated it was just a general diagnosis and it really doesn't say how to fix it as there are a multitude of problems that could be related etc etc. So, they said they could replace the mass airflow sensor but couldnt guarantee that would fix it. So, I told them to go ahead and run the diagnostics again. They did and it was indeed the mass airflow sensor. If I had gambled I would have saved $89. But, at least I had the info going in so they didn't try to sell me a new engine or something.

    If Autozones diagnostics shows a faulty part...ask for a price from them. Dealerships will probably charge double for the part. If you know a mechanic who could put it in for you it could save ya some money. Good luck.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    So you paid to have your car diagnosed again? And I bet they still tried to sell you a new MAF (which you probably didn't need). Your dealership is right the code doesn't tell you how to fix something or what part is faulty. It tells you waht part of the engine is not operating properly. you still have to diagnose the problem. You should told him you had it scanned and the code was Pxxxx. Then he coudl diagnose it without the $89 charge.

    I had my MAF trip the check engine light in my Olds Intrigue. Got the car scanned and printed out the code (also clear the code). I posted on Edmunds and someone suggested cleaning the MAF first. So i spent 10 minutes cleaning the MAF and haven't tripped the check engine light in 8 months. this is why I suggested that the poster put the code on here first. Also get a print out if the store provides it.
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