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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
But here are the instructions per another MPV web site.
1)Remove the glovebox
2)Locate the filter box on the right side of opening
3)Open the filter box lid by pulling on the clip on the left
4)Remove the old filter element.
5)reinsert the new clean filter in reverese order of removal.
The filter is hydrostatically charged, so only open when ready to insert.
I guess you wouldn't want to perform this service at a gas station, eh? :surprise:
Noting that you mentioned being a cheapy(me too), there is a "homemade" cabin filter recipe from another MPV web forum. From what I recall it involved plastic mesh and a furnace filter.(probably $5-$8 in materials). How much are the new OEM(?) cabin filters crildeo?
does anyone had an idea?
I have a 2004 White MPV and have recently noticed that there are little rust spots all over it. I found a service bullentin for iron particle damage on line that includes 2004 MPVs. They offer a decontamination kit free of charge, but say that if it doesn't work a new paint job won't be covered under warrantly as it is "environmental" damage. My husband had a white van for 5 years, and now has a different van that is also two years old. Neither one of them have this happening to the paint. Also, my van is garage parked about 75% of the time. Anyone have any experience with this problem.
Thanks!
take the speaker out of the passenger side and install in the driver's side. If only bass...probably the radio needs to be replaced.
Only noticeable at slow speeds, like when parking or turning at low speeds - after engine is warm.
Any ideas what that could be? The dealer claims 'normal'.
Thanks!
Mazda seems to have a problem backing their products when it comes to service problems. In any case, my 03' MPV get at best 23.5 mpg on my daily commute (mostly highway miles @65 mph). I get around 21 mpg if I travel at 75mph.
You are in need of a services dept that cares.
I generally get 18 around town and 22 on the highway.
I try to go light on the gas too.
Yep, I think SERVICE is a key thing here and to find the right one to go to! We are limited in the Twin Cities, so we get stuck with location issues that may not be the best for SERVICE.
They're nice enough at the Polar Bear store, but I know they are greasy as any of them when you get down to the issues!! Everything is 'normal'; from the $400 60K check in to the squeaky steering wheel to the creaking front end when it's below 30 degrees! It's all just a normally and I'm being too picky! Turn up the radio is what they say!!
I think the Burnsville location would be a better dealer since they are more noted locally and deal with MAZDA's ONLY! Unlike the Bears on the north! If you live in the south metro, they would be worth it! I have never gotten there since the distance is not convenient.
Hope that helps. TCC
Also, in defense of the dealership, there are so many variables that determine the gas mileage. where do you start?
If I was getting that bad gas mileage, I would check a few basic items like the air filter, tire pressure and the fluids. Then I would start tracking each tankful of gas using a small notepad. Very simple: Date, Odometer reading, miles between fill-ups, gallons of gas, MPG. this way you can see exactly what your MPG is and do a quick analysis of the type of driving and gas mileage. I've done this with my last few cars. It only adds a minute at the pump.
did it get fixed? what was the solution?
Recently I have been hearing a very faint electronic beep when I depress the brakes. Doesn't happen very often, just every now and then. Anyone know what this is? You can barely hear it. Can't find anything about it in the owner's manual.
2005 MPV, 27,000 miles
Thanks!
Pete
I remember reading one posting about a new coil pack fixing it.
I'm trying to learn all I can before taking it to the dealer.
Is there just one coil pack or is there six of them? How much does one cost?
Thanks! This is a great forum!
Elsewhere on the 'net I have read of a few owners replacing just the rear coils and not needing to do the fronts just yet. You may be lucky and only have one coil acting up, so you could try replacing one at a time as well.
-Brian
YEARS TOE LEFT REAR TOE RIGHT REAR DONE BY
2003 + 0.24 DEG + 0.10 DEG DEALER
2004 + 0.28 DEG + 0.10 DEG DEALER
2005 NO READING GIVEN TO ME DEALER
2006 + 0.57 DEG - 0.36 DEG SEARS
(SPECIFIC RANGE - 0.04 DEG TO + 0.32 DEG)
AS YOU CAN SEE IT HAS BEEN GOING OUT OF WACK EVERY YEAR. WHEN I WENT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE IT FIXED I WAS GIVEN CRAP ON THE ALIGNMENT, AND THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY CANNOT FIX IT. THE CAR HAS NEVER BEEN INTO ANY ACCIDENTS, OR ANY MAJOR BUMPS, OR HIT ANY CURBS. ANY ADVISE GIVEN WILL BE VERY APPRECITED.
P.S. ALSO MY THRUST ANGLE SHOWS + 0.46 DEG
I'm interested in knowing which componets to remove and in which order. I'm hoping to change the spark plugs tomorrow.
Thank You
2 things.
Anyone had a period of rough running and CHECK ENG. light come on after driving in severe rainstorms? This has happened to me 3 times now. Heavy rains and all of a sudden it starts to shudder and run rough; chk. eng. light comes on. After a day of drying out all is normal again!
Has anyone noticed the sizable loss of power when using the AC on their MPV? I certainly do! Feels like it has no guts at all; need to thrust the gas just to get up to cruising speeds of 65 MPH. When I shut the AC off it seems just fine. Mine has 65K on it now. Almost reminds me of the days of having an old 4 cyl with air and how it would drag the power down. I thought those days were gone with this V6 engine!
I have no power loss when using AC on my 2004 MPV.
I would need to be driving in the rainstorm and pull into the dealer. I think it has something to do with the coil issue...is there a service bulletin on this??
Thanks, TCC
The Autozone salesman didn't go under the hood, they just attached the reading device to something under my dash...took about 30 seconds. I don't know if they would need to "go under the hood" on the MPV.
Whatever the diagnostic shows, write it down and research to see if any further diagnostics is needed. I went to Autozone with my Buick, when they tested it my mass airflow sensor came up with a maulfunction. When I took it to the dealership to get it fixed, the dealership stated the diagnostic fee was $89.I stated I already had it diagnosed at Autozone. They stated it was just a general diagnosis and it really doesn't say how to fix it as there are a multitude of problems that could be related etc etc. So, they said they could replace the mass airflow sensor but couldnt guarantee that would fix it. So, I told them to go ahead and run the diagnostics again. They did and it was indeed the mass airflow sensor. If I had gambled I would have saved $89. But, at least I had the info going in so they didn't try to sell me a new engine or something.
If Autozones diagnostics shows a faulty part...ask for a price from them. Dealerships will probably charge double for the part. If you know a mechanic who could put it in for you it could save ya some money. Good luck.
I had my MAF trip the check engine light in my Olds Intrigue. Got the car scanned and printed out the code (also clear the code). I posted on Edmunds and someone suggested cleaning the MAF first. So i spent 10 minutes cleaning the MAF and haven't tripped the check engine light in 8 months. this is why I suggested that the poster put the code on here first. Also get a print out if the store provides it.