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JM&A stands for Jim Moran and Associates. Mr. Moran owns the distribution rights for Toyota in the Southeast Region. He controls the port, the accessories, the financing and the warranties. This is why you end up with some really odd and aftermarket items on your cars.
Within the SET region, there is no problem with getting claims handled. Outside of SET, there shouldn't be a problem unless there is a question as to what is and is not covered. With a Toyota warranty, there is never a question.
I can't get into pricing on a public discussion forum without getting myself deleted.
I had been researching vehicles since summer and really liked the Highlander. Although I think you can't beat a Camry, I bought the Highlander and am really pleased with it. The HL is all that I expected and it's nice to have a utility vehicle for flexibilty and bad weather. I would readily recommend that you give it strong consideration. Hope this helps.
Congrats on your new Highlander. As far as SUVs go, crossover or not, the HL is really nice. Maybe I like it because it is based on the Camry. Every winter I think about getting an SUV with AWD, it seems like it would be safer and more confidence inspiring in bad weather. Plus the utility would be nice as well.
Since we are in the Camry forum, I'll shift back to an on-topic post. Like your wife, there are a lot of things on my Camry that I like, but I do wish I had gotten some more luxury features. I plan to remedy that with my next vehicle.
Please keep me posted on how you like your HL. I read the HL forum also, so I can read your comments and respond there on the HL subject.
SilverCrown
** 2000 LE V6 with approx. 35,000 miles and still going strong **
I'm off my soap box now.
Your comment about the HL being on the Camry platform is right on point. The HL honestly handles as smoothly as the car, without any of that SUV lean and rough ride.
Catch my post to your attention on the HL board.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
We have always done the recommended maintenance every 15,000 miles, per manufacturer guidelines. We've always had Toyota dealers perform this work, even though their per hour charges are much higher than non-dealer mechanics.
We recently had the 45,000 mile maintenance done on our 1999 Camry. They changed the oil and filter, and rotated the tires. The rest of the work was just inspection, which found no problems. I can't recall a Toyota mechanic EVER finding any problems during all the inspections we've had done as part of the scheduled maintenance work.
My question: is it really necessary to have a Toyota mechanic do this expensive inspection work, especially since they never find anything? I go to a Firestone shop for simple maintenance (oil changes, tire totations, etc.). This shop has given me reason to trust them, and they don't charge for inspections, just for work actually done. Would going to the less expensive mechanic for scheduled maintenance make more sense?
I appreciate any informed opinions that are posted here.
1. If anything goes wrong, (sludge, etc.)I can always prove that I had things done by them and they (Toyota) will be responsible.
2. I figure if I take the cost of the service and average it out, it's not too much per day. It's worth it to me to pay it.
Once my car is out of the warranty period and I feel it's not "new car" I'll take it to someone cheaper.
Just my two cents....
Last year, I refinanced my car from a lease/loan hybrid program (that was not to my advantage in the long run, I won't do that again) and to get a lower interest rate. They offered me the GAP coverage and I took it because it was only a few dollars per month which was worth it for the extra protection. At the time, I found it a bit of a surprise, but thought it was because of my special circumstances of refinancing this loan (which I had never done before).
Then I see this discussion, so it seems as if GAP coverage is not just for leasing any more. It makes sense because the principle can still apply if your vehicle gets stolen or totaled early in the loan period, I just didn't realize it was as much of a factor for loans as it is for leases. Cliffy, can you clarify this for me? Or anyone else can respond as well. Thanks.
Thanks for the quick response!! :-)
The same can apply to the oil filter. Most filters you can buy do comply with manufacturer requirements for filtering oil. If however, the filter breaks and becomes clogged and engine damage occurs, Toyota can't be held responsible for the damage.
at three thousand miles or less there should be no worry about oil sludge. Besides you'll have the dated receipt for the filter.
I have been the owner of several used car lots over the years and I have found out first hand of the importance of an extended warranty.
Let me start off by saying that the majority of both new and used company employee's who plan on keeping their vehicles for 100,000 miles do end up buying the extended warranty and the best way to purchase a new toyota is to bye only the Platinum 0 deductable original mfg. warranty and from that point on only do all the mfg. required maintanance and pass on all the dealer suggested maintance and by doing so the savings on these unneccessary services will pay for your warranry as well as put over 1000 dollars cash in your pocket and still have a vehicle which is coverered for almost all non maintenance defects for 100,000 miles....along with a free loaner car whenever your car needs warranty repair.
I have never owned a new personal car without the extended warranty and believe me I ended up way ahead each and every time.
I paid under $1000.00 dollars for the 100,000 mile 6 years platinum 0 deductable warranty.
All-season M+S tires just means that 25% of the tread space is open so that they can plow through more snow, mud, rain, whatever.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You are correct that it is a value judgment. Just because somebody makes money on it, does not mean it is not worth the price. Also, there are HUGE differences in warranty programs. Ask anybody who has owned an aftermarket warranty and you will generally get negative feedback. Ask the same question to a person who bought a factory warranty and the response is VERY different.
Any advice from those of you who have face a similar dilema would be appreciated.
~alpha
ndboomer - you can leave the timing belt to 90K if you prefer...this is a non-interference engine, so the worst that can happen is you will need to be towed if it breaks, and Toyota dealers always needlessly recommend replacement at 60K, because it makes them some money. I don't think you would be able to save a ton of money going with a private repair shop though - the dealer should be doing this for about $200 or so (California rates).
rutger - remember, Honda's powertrain warranty is not 60K, it is only 36K, same as their bumper to bumper. I wonder if they are contemplating raising this to meet the current industry standard? They are beginning to look like VW did back when it had that 2 yr/24K bumper to bumper warranty a couple of years ago.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My 95 Camry LE w/ 129k miles is leaking coolant. Its at an independent shop now be diagnosed with a $450 estimate to replace radiator, hoses and thermostat. Does this seem in the ballpark as being reasonable? The mechanic said the leak was on a seam of the radiator, not at the hoses or clamps.
I called a Toyota dealer svc dept and the svc mgr stated it is extremely rare for a Camry radiator to rust out and go bad.
Am I getting ripped off?
Thanks for any comments. John
~alpha
Also test drove a 1994 and experienced an annoying bang from the right rear. My mechanic's told me he has gone crazy trying to find that noise on customer's cars. Anyone else experience this problem?
Thanks
One more thing. Does anyone know why the mud guards come in every color except Catallina Blue(my car's color)?
6cyl or both? Thanks
I can take the car to a local auto body shop that is authorized by my insurance company, or I can take it to an auto body shop that is a "Toyota certified collision center" and which is owned by the dealership where I bought my car. The "Toyota certified" shop is a bit further away. They are an authorized repair shop for several insurance companies (but not mine), but my insurance company would ultimately have no objections if I went there.
My question is: would it be better for me to have the work done by the "Toyota certified" place, or would it really matter? What would the benefits be? Thanks for your help!
sludge issues: all 2.2L 4-cylinder and 3.0L 6-cylinder engines in Toyotas between 1997 and 2001. If you have one of the affected engines Toyota has warranted it for eight years and unlimited miles against failure due to sludge. These engines were in camrys, the last of the previous celicas, some of the first Highlanders. If you think you might have an affected engine, you can stop by your local dealer and ask them whether or not, but the bottom line is change theoil reuglarly.
As far as where to have the oil changed, I am pretty sure the warranty will allow you to change the oil any professional place, including Jiffy Lube and the like, but if you want to be sure, you should ask your dealer. Call them up! The only rule to follow with oil changes is that if you change it yourself, you are supposed to use Toyota oil filters, and keep the receipts when you do so.
letsride: current mpg for 4-cyl is 23/32, or 24/33 with the very rare manual transmission.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
However, the comparison tests that they run are becoming more bizzare. In the past, for family comparos, they realistically tested automatic trans. cars, within a certain price bracket, and with min interior volume constraints. This month's comparison spans nearly $7000 MSRP, the cars have a 100hp plus spread, some of the cars have ABS, two are automatic cars even though C&D eliminated the Mitsu Galant and Ford Taurus b/c they are auto only. What gives? Can we eliminate some variables, please?
In trying to please the enthusiasts AND the realistic car purchasers, C&D is losing its way in some of its comparisons, IMO.
~alpha