Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier

210delray · June 2005

It would be okay to wait for the 15K mile service for the next oil change, as Toyota recommends 5K mile oil change or 6-month intervals, whichever comes first.

Personally I change oil a little more frequently (at about 4K miles), partly out of a reaction to the oil sludging controversy of a few years back on the previous-generation 4-cylinder. I use conventional (not synthetic) oil.

Regarding the 15K mile service, don't let the dealer take you for a ride. In addition to the oil change, all that is needed is a tire rotation, a check of the brakes, and visual checks of the car's underbody (brake and fuel lines, ball joints, front and rear suspension, etc.) Realistically, nothing should be awry at only 15K miles, assuming you travel on paved roads and don't tow a trailer.

mcgirl0730 · June 2005

Thanks for the reply. The dealership quoted me at $130 for the 15K mile service. Do you think this is reasonable or should I just take it in for oil change and then have the tire rotation done somewhere else? I bought warranty for my tires with America's Tire and it includes lifetime rotation. Also, I'm thinking of having the dealership do all my maintenance while the car is still under warranty because if I took it somewhere else and something goes wrong, they won't cover it. I'm a 30 year old woman and I don't know anything about cars so I can't do my own maintenance.

loucapri · June 2005

You should ask them to show you what they are going to do for this 15K mile service (they should have a list)

If you look at it carefully, most of the work they are going to do is "CHECK" this and "INSPECT" that. To me, it means nothing because anything need to be replaced will be extra.

You are a 30 year old (smart) woman (since you pick the camry over the other

)
So what you might want to do is to have the dealer do the oil change, then buy a air filter from the them and put it on yourself. It's easy, no tool is required. An easier way is to buy the air filter ahead of time and when you go do the oil change, just ask the service to put it on for you, they should do it for free since it's a 30 second job.

FYI - even an oil change they will normally do an visual inspection so you don't need to worry about by not doing the 15k miles service, you might miss something.

Cost? less than half.

210delray · June 2005

Actually, your Toyota warranty remains in effect no matter where you have the work done. Just be sure to keep all receipts with detailed descriptions of what was done, also including date and mileage.

Personally, I'd use an independent garage with a good reputation to do the oil change and underbody and fluid level checks, and have the tires rotated at America's Tire if you already have free lifetime rotation. While the tires are off, they can check the brakes. Your total cost should be on the order of $50 to $75 combined.

Unlike Lou, I believe the visual checks are useful, especially for someone who isn't familiar with the workings of cars. You could learn to check the underhood fluid levels yourself, since all of the reservoirs are see-through plastic. And if you pull the oil dipstick first thing in the morning before you start the car, you'll get an accurate reading without having to wipe it off and re-insert it (assuming the car is on level ground).

Also, if you haven't done so, purchase a tire air pressure gauge to check the inflation pressure. It's the best way to find out if you have a slow leak due to a nail or other objected embedded in the tire. Also, tires naturally lose air over time and when the outside temperature drops.

BTW, the Toyota maintenance guide doesn't call for replacing the air filter and pollen filter till 30K miles, but it doesn't hurt to replace then sooner if you drive through dust frequently.

phd86 · July 2005

Ken:

This thing about doing occasional 1/2 tank fulls and saying you got 40 mpg just doesn't fly.

you can't do one tankfull here and there and say anything about mpg. Especially 1/2 tanks (these figures are even more subject to the inaccuracies I pointed out in my earlier reply). The only way is to keep a constant track of every tankful; "pretty consistent" doesn't mean anything (are you implying you got 20 mpg between the "40")?

The most telling indication of inaccurate mpg boasts is that it suggests a much greater range than ever experienced. Since there is a 18.5 gallon tank in the 04-05 camry, - you should have a range of around 700 miles without going anywhere near dry (e.g., 17 gallons x "40 mpg" = 680 miles).

So what was the most miles you drove between fillups?

toyotaken · July 2005

I don't like running the tank until the light turns on, so most times it was between 15-16 gallons for a fillup. And from what I recall, it was right around 690-700 miles on the fillups. Overall for the trip we put on about 2,800 miles over about 2 1/2 weeks of driving. I don't ever fill up with just a half a tank unless I know I'm heading for a long trip that I don't want to fill up right away as well.

Hope this helps clarify.

Ken

txstudmfn · July 2005

You sound like a real smart person who cares about her car so this is what I would advise you to do:-

1) Dealer does the same things as what other repair shops do but they charge more eg: oil change at your dealer is $25 at Firestone, Pepboys etc $15. Some places even do it for $10. Your dealer wants you to spend your money there so they will make the simplest of things sound like a heart transplant so don't be afraid. They are just trying to make a quick buck. Always remember when you walk into a dealership that you will probably be paying more than what is normally charged at other places.

2) As long as you save all your repair documents properly you won't have any problems with the warranty aspect. So don't be afraid to take it to other places.

3) It is always good to change the oil at 3k there is nothing wrong with that. It is a good practice. Oil breaks down fast at very high temperature so they go from the light golden color to black by 3k+ miles. Most people don't wait for fear of oil suldge development and i won't blame them. It has been a big concern in the past.

4) It is ok to change your air filter at 15k (thats another $15. You can do this on your own). Refer to your manual it is very easy to inspect the air filter. If it looks too dirty or clogged up replace it.

5) Check your Tire pressure and have them rotated. This way you will have even wear on you tires and they last longer. Refer back to your manual.

So to summarize get the oil changed and have your tires rotated. If you have any more questions don't hestitate to post it.

18fan · July 2005

I don't know where you live, txstudmfn, but around here Toyota dealers charge $25 for an oil change... other places (WalMart, Sears, Oil Can Henry's, etc) are $30, $35, $39... So the Toyota dealer's price is very competetive.

Also, I have had previous experience with Firestone repair centers.... Suffice it to say I would NEVER let them lay a hand on my car again!

lmacmil · July 2005

I would gladly pay a $5-$10 premium for the Toyota dealer to change my oil vs Walmart or some quickie lube place. Not only are you getting Toyota brand parts but someone is doing it who is familiar with your car plus it gets documented in the dealer's database.

lithgowa · July 2005

My 1996 Camry passenger side window goes down but not up. Both switches (driver side too) have been checked and are okay and the motor is working fine. It appears it may be an electrical issue? Any suggestions?

insane125636 · July 2005

My 1998 sienna had the same problem after 3 days they did find out it was the window motor. i suggest getting that checked again

insane125636 · July 2005

My 3 day old camry was smashed in the back by my townships garbage truck and pretty much tottaled

. Now, the truck had faulty brakes and since it is a goverenment vehicle my insurance company has to pay and i cant sue :mad: . IS that really true :confuse:

pat · July 2005

Ouch, sorry to hear that.

I suggest you repost in our Questions About Auto Insurance & Accidents discussion since this is not a Camry-specific incident.

Hope it works out for you - let us know how it goes.

insane125636 · July 2005

Thanks

chevymalibu · July 2005

when I just test drove a 2005 LE, the 4 cyl, 5 speed was 2100 RPM at 70MPH. His figures for 65 are pretty accurate to what I saw while driving.

chevymalibu · July 2005

sorry to say but they did a study a few years ago and whoever makes toyota's oil filters were found subpar to many in the aftermarket stores. Even walmarts brand of oil filter were found to be at the top (champion makes them). Purolator, wix (napa brand), mobil 1, KPN, and one or two others were very good. They gave lower marks for fram (I'm sure I'll get an opposite reply on that brand but I used it for many years, still do from time to time). Go to bobstheoilguy and he has a study.

lmacmil · July 2005

Found this post on the 2005+ Avalon board. Anyone know if it will work on the Camry? My wife's HL doesn't chime at all. I use my belt but often unbuckle while pulling into my driveway and the chime won't stop and until I turn off the car.

******FOUND THE SOLUTION TO DISABLE THE SEAT BELT CHIME***************
Well, no wiring mod is required. Here is the procedure:

1. Set the LCD on the combination meter to the ODO trip.
2. Press and hold the TRIP meter reset knob for ten seconds or more within six seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position. Fastening the driver's seat belt while holding the knob cancels the buzzer reminder. (You may have to hit the reset meter knob to cycle through b-ON to b-OFF)
3. When this occurs, the LCD displays "b-OFF". The buzzer reminder can be switched between ON and OFF each time the TRIP meter knob is pressed. The LCD displays "b-ON" or "b-OFF" according to the buzzer reminder ON/OFF status. The display changes to the ODO or trip meter if the knob is not pressed in 10 seconds.
4) Performing steps 1) and 2) again when the buzzer reminder is off exits cancel mode.

lmacmil · July 2005

"...a study a few years ago and ...toyota's oil filters were found subpar..."

I think you are referring to the 1995 Finnish car mag study. Here's a quote from a 2003 study posted on the Corrolland board.

"If I had to pick 5 out of the 10 as being the best, I would pick the Purolator PureOne, K&N, Toyota, Wix, and Purolator PremiumPlus as this group."

It would comforting to think that, given Toyota's engine sludge problems, they wouldn't scrimp on the oil filter but who knows.

moeharri · July 2005

This does not work in my 2005 XLE--I just tried it a few times (man is it warm out).

fredvh · July 2005

Thanks for the info.

hank2 · July 2005

My local Toyota dealer charges $20 for an oil change and checks the car... and sometimes runs it thru the car wash... so I let them do it. I trusted a specific mechanic to change oil at the local car wash place ... and it cost me $25 with a car wash.

My dealer also has periodic specials where I could buy a few oil filters for a relative bargain, if I wanted to do it myself. CarMax used to have a $10 oil change for anyone, but I don't know about quality ... and you could supply a Toyota filter ... Just a few options.

And for folks who say "I'm just a woman," there are usually courses at the local college or high school titled something like car repair for women. If you are not physically able, or just don't want to do the repairs... that's OK. But it is still a good idea to understand what is going on, so that you can make a better decision.

Also, I get my tires rotated for free at the local Discount Tire (not everywhere in the US). But some tire places have this option.

I have an '04 Camry SE 4 Cyl and I change oil every 5K per manual. The dealer has a soft recommendation for 3K... but has no problem with 5K.

One question I haven't had answered adequately - the manual is ambiguous - is whether I have a timing belt that needs to be changed every 90K mi? I have a long time to go, but I don't know what time of maintenance I will need ... in 6 years.

Finally, I have 15K miles and I just drove 150 miles on the highway at 65 MPH at around 2100 RPM and I got 31 MPG. I am not yet averaging 30 MPG... but I see a trend.

- hank2

210delray · July 2005

Good news - there is no longer a timing belt in the 4-cylinder Camry (2002 and later)!

fellows · July 2005

I bought a 2005 Camry xle about a month ago. The car rode very roughly (suspension wise), so after about 300 miles I had to go to the dealer to have the satellite radio activated (they forgot to do this when I bought the car). While there I mentioned the rough ride to the service manager and he told me to bring it back for the free 1000 mile service check-up and they would look at it then. (by the way, this is something else I was not told about). Long story short, i was going to Maine on vacation the next day and decided to check the air in the tires. The pressure should be 29 lbs in the 16" tires according to the book, and written on the tire is 'never inflate beyond 41 lbs even for beading'. The tire pressure rang up at 55 lbs!! I contacted the service manager and after some words he gave me new tires. I left for vacation the next day and the ride is absolutely horrible, I feel every bump in the road.I believe that the suspension was ruined by driving that first 400 miles with the tires grossly over inflated. Any comments, opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

lmacmil · July 2005

"I believe that the suspension was ruined by driving that first 400 miles with the tires grossly over inflated."

I don't think this is possible. There must be another explanation. Have you tried another Camry to compare the ride?

dudleyr · July 2005

Overinflating the tires will not ruin the suspension. It would not hurt the tires either after only a few hundred miles. You would have been fine to just lower the pressure.

Did the dealer put on the exact same tires. If they put on cheap ones that could affect the ride. What is the current tire pressure?

210delray · July 2005

I agree with dudley that the overinflated tires would not have hurt the suspension or (for only 300 miles) the tires. Toyota routinely ships its cars (in my experience) with high pressure (about 50 psi), which is particularly important for cars making the long boat ride from Japan.

As you are undoubtedly aware, tires gradually lose pressure over time. The maximum inflation pressure for your tires, BTW, would likely be 44 psi, which applies to tires in use, not stationary on a boat, train, or transport truck. The max. bead seating pressure during mounting on the wheel is typically 40 psi.

The dealer is supposed to adjust the air pressure during predelivery inspection. Obviously, your dealer did not perform a proper predelivery inspection. It's pretty galling when the window sticker says dealer prep is included in the price and most dealers add a so-called processing fee on top of that. So, I'd seriously consider looking for another dealer, since they also "forgot" to mention the free 1000-mile service (which is not offered by the factory).

It's also common for the dealers to overlook the spare tire. On my 2005 Camry, it was still inflated to 50 psi!

BTW, I think 29 psi is too low, used only for comfort. I routinely go with 34-35 psi and haven't experienced uneven tire wear. I did the same with my '97 Camry.

If you look in the fine print in the owner's manual, it even recommends 35 psi when traveling above 75 mph. To me, that's further evidence that 29 psi is for comfort, as opposed to handling/safety/high-speed temperature resistance. It'll provide better fuel economy also.

fellows · July 2005

Thanks very much for your reply. I have owned 2 camrys before this a 91 and a 97. I am trying to rent a 2005 camry for a day to compare, but at least in new york city,it seems almost impossible to get one. I have called two dealers from toyotas website TRAC program; one got back to me and said they haven't rented in years, the other one just hasn't gotten back to me despite three phone calls, very frustrating! The ride is bumpy in general, and if there is a bump when I'm making a turn at 20-30 mph it almost feels like the car is going to go off the road! By the way, I noticed that this car had 26 miles on it when we bought it; I thought that was very high as my previous cars had about 6 or 8 miles on them but I never asked the dealer about it. I really appreciate your input, thanks again!

fellows · July 2005

Thanks for the thought about the spare tire, it somehow never crossed my mind! As you say, 29 lbs is for maximum comfort, but even with 29 lbs in them it is not. Presumably, and I haven't tried this yet, if I inflated them more the ride would be rougher. By the way, this car was produced here, so I don't really see the need for over-inflating like that. The tire dealer said it was against their recommendations but they really can't control it.

chevymalibu · July 2005

I am seriously considering buying a camry LE but after test driving the car, the standard front disc, rear drum brakes seem on the poor side. Granted, my old car is a 1994 camry LE so it's better there but our other car is a 2004 accord which has 4 wheel disc brakes and they are superb. I really don't want to upgrade to a SE or XLE to get the 4 discs but I might have to do that. Anyone else think they are a little weak?? thanks.

alpha01 · July 2005

The brakes on the Camry Standard and LE are acceptable, no better, and their middling performance is exacerbated by the mushy-bordering-on-vulgar pedal slop feel.

The SE is actually a better value than the LE, especially if you can find one with no options. Which trim level Accord do you drive? The DX, VP, and LX 4 cylinders all use rear drums, for what thats worth. If you're happy with the Accord, why not get another?

The Camry, only 8 months away from replacement, is now something of a lame duck model as far as I can see. It is an incredible value, however (as is the Accord, which is being pushed out dealer doors with significant factory to dealer incentives... my buddy just picked up a $23K MSRP EX 4 for 19.8K before TTL in PA).

~alpha

lmacmil · July 2005

The need for rear disc brakes arose in some marketing guy's imagination. For passenger cars, there is no need, from a physics standpoint, to put disc brakes on the rear. However, the public has been told that they are better (and they do make sense on the front where 70% of the braking takes place) and arguably, they look better thru the wheels, so people associate them with premium braking performance.

The somewhat mushy pedal feel is a function of the brake booster and another story entirely.

chevymalibu · July 2005

I'm glad you agree with me. They are acceptable but the accord (EXL, 4 cyl) has 4 discs and man they stop when you push down. the sonata (the other car I'm considering) has 4 discs and it stops fast too. I like the camry and bet it will get great mileage. it's boring but economical (my main factor). Considering a XLE but they're hard to come by and in the right color etc. that also doesn't have too many other options to jack the price up. My wife doesn't want the same two cars. We had matching grand am's in the late 80's, two 1994 camrys and now I can't get another accord. Also, the accord seat is a little stiff. Thanks for your comments. I can deal with it but in the event I need to stomp on them, I doubt they'll grab like 4 discs.

chevymalibu · July 2005

I hear you as I have 202K on my 1994 camry and still have the orig. rear drum pads on there. But, when comparing a 4 disc car to 2 disc/2 drum, the extra discs grab a lot better.

210delray · July 2005

Considering you're from New York City, I'm not surprised about the seemingly rough ride, what with the poor condition of the city's streets. I'm not sure any car, except an older domestic mush-mobile, would provide a comfortable ride.

Have you tried your car on better roads, like the New Jersey Turnpike or I-78 west of Newark?

Instead of renting another Camry, can you get a dealer to let you test-drive one for an hour or two?

typesix · July 2005

Rear disc brakes are better because the automatic slack adjusters on many cars don't work after a few years. Or, too many people are too lazy to use parking brake, which in many Toyotas, adjusts the rear drum brakes. The front brakes then end up doing too much work and warped rotors result.

lmacmil · July 2005

"Rear disc brakes are better because the automatic slack adjusters on many cars don't work after a few years."

I'll concede that as a possible slight advantage in an older vehicle

The point I was making was that a properly sized drum brake can produce all the torque that most passenger cars ever need. Disc brakes also operate better when wet because the rotors fling off the water which can collect in the bottom of the drum.

Disc brakes are a significant cost penalty which is why GM and Ford are returning to drum brakes on some of their light duty pickups.

sandman46 · July 2005

We've had 4 Toyota's and they all had the mushy brake pedal feel...not very comforting. Even tried a '05 Corolla and Camry and the brakes were still the same.
We're delighted with our '05 Mazda3 S with 4 wheel disc brakes. Stops on a dime with a very reassuring feel to the pedal. True we gave up better mpg's with the 3, but we felt the brakes were so much better and with all of us driving, we sleep better at night. Also the Mazda is a kick to drive!
Zoom Zoom y'all!

the Sandman

ragdollgirl · July 2005

The same thing happened to me. My dealership has a 72-hour Buyback Policy where you can return the car and get all your money back. Well, that's what I told them I wanted to do after 2 days, when the car was riding so bumpy I couldn't stand it. Turns out the tires all had 42 psi, instead of the 29 psi listed on the door frame. I, too, hesitate to pump them up to 30 or more, since I still notice a thumping in the rear over moderate bumps, and I'm sure more air will only make that worse. I agree that the suspension probably wasn't damaged by the over-inflation, but it certainly caused me a lot of grief and anxiety. By the way, I have to remember to check my spare -- I haven't done that yet. Has anybody had to have their '05 Camry suspension worked on while brand new because of thunking noises in the back? I don't know if mine is just a normal thing for this car or if something is wrong. It rides great on good pavement or if only one rear wheel is going over a bump. If both wheels go over a bump together, I hear the thump.

alpha01 · July 2005

Actually, the Corolla with its rear drums stops reasonably well, its just the pedal isnt as firm as the MZ3's, Civic's, etc. The Camry, OTOH, has longer than necessary stopping distances in Standard and LE guise (all others have the rear discs that are cheaper to maintain than constantly adjusting the rear drums, as well as better matched to stopping the vehicle). Sandman, I'd have made the same choice, but Mazda 3 S vs. Corolla... you gave up more than a COUPLE of MPGs. IIRC, its about 9 on the highway, and something like 4 or 5 overall. Is your MZ3 a stick? If so, I really hope you tested the excellent Corolla XRS.

~alpha

sandman46 · July 2005

We both really couldn't stand the cheapness of the Corolla either. We just decided we wanted a nicer car. It really came down to the Jetta or the 3. She chose the 3. We've been pretty consious about gas mpg's for years, so we decided to splurge a bit. Couldn't be happier.
Zoom Zoom!

The Sandman

chevymalibu · July 2005

FYI

compared it to the Sonata 2006 GL/GLS. They really didn't drop the price on the sonata (300-400) from MSRP of 19500 or 20000 GL/GLS models. The camry was driven and we thought it was a very good car. The brakes weren't that bad and the AC was better on this car. The tach was 2200 RPM at 70MPH. It had a MSRP of 20,865 and we got it for 4000 off of that plus the taxes (300 in SC) and fees/title etc.. of 480. I think I got a great deal. I know Edmunds doesn't want to say the name of the salesman but he did one hell of a job and didn't mess around. He came back with the best price and really wanted to sell a car (didn't get that impression from the hyundai dealer in terms of pricing). This dealer is the highest volume dealer in SC if that helps. Good luck to all camry owners!!!! Thanks for the info and discussion.

cadman · July 2005

Hi
The radiator of my 1990 Camry 2 Litre GLI is leaking at the top below the header chamber. Replacement is costly so have decided to try RADWELD to keep the old bus going. I need to know the cooling water capacity as there are different size bottles of product specified.

Any replies will be much appreciated

Cadman

210delray · July 2005

Offhand, I don't know, since I have newer Camrys. But the capacity is specified in the owner's manual, if you have one.

slorenzen · July 2005

I had the radiator crack at the top in a '95 Camry a couple of years ago...apparently it's an inherent weakness in the design and happens frequently.

I found a replacement radiator on line for about $125.00 shipped. You may want to check that out, since overheating that engine will essentially total that car.

typesix · July 2005

Capacity is 7 quarts for 1990 2.0l.

alpha01 · July 2005

Can someone help me understand why all Camry engines for 2006 have been re-rated at substantially lower power and torque figures.

4 cylinder models:
2005: 160 horses and 163 foot pounds
2006: 154 horses and 160 foot pounds

3.0L V6 in LE/XLE
2005: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds
2006: 190 horses and 197 foot pounds

3.3L V6 in SE
2005: 225 horses and 240 foot pounds
2006: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds

What gives? I recall reading something about the SAE recalculating output, but cant find anything now, and if this was the case, why hasnt this affected models of other manufacturers?

~alpha

alpha01 · July 2005

Can someone help me understand why all Camry engines for 2006 have been re-rated at substantially lower power and torque figures.

4 cylinder models:
2005: 160 horses and 163 foot pounds
2006: 154 horses and 160 foot pounds

3.0L V6 in LE/XLE
2005: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds
2006: 190 horses and 197 foot pounds

3.3L V6 in SE
2005: 225 horses and 240 foot pounds
2006: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds

What gives? I recall reading something about the SAE recalculating output, but cant find anything now, and if this was the case, why hasnt this affected models of other manufacturers? If theres an article ANYWHERE- mags, web, etc, please let me know so I can read it.

Thanks in advance!

~alpha

jbollt · July 2005

Alpha: I was just reading in Motor Trend that some auto manufacturers are using a new SAE rating formula..no real differnce, just a more accurate rating....I'll provide more info when I find the mag at home later. They did the same thing in the past (1970s?)

Edit...OK. I called home..page 42 Aug 2005 Motor Trend

alpha01 · July 2005

Thanks jbollt!

I havent read the article, but I do hope that all manufacturers will soon use the updated, more accurate calculations, or else that could lead to some very confusing comparisons between competitors.

Thanks again

alpha

lmacmil · July 2005

I wonder if this (new SAE rating formula) isn't just a way to temper the horsepower race that's going on. Many non-technical people associate higher hp with lower mileage and assume that if an engine is producing more hp, it is also consuming more gas. It's just fodder for the critics of the auto industry to harp about the irresponsible manufacturers producing more gas guzzlers.

Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier

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