Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Personally I change oil a little more frequently (at about 4K miles), partly out of a reaction to the oil sludging controversy of a few years back on the previous-generation 4-cylinder. I use conventional (not synthetic) oil.
Regarding the 15K mile service, don't let the dealer take you for a ride. In addition to the oil change, all that is needed is a tire rotation, a check of the brakes, and visual checks of the car's underbody (brake and fuel lines, ball joints, front and rear suspension, etc.) Realistically, nothing should be awry at only 15K miles, assuming you travel on paved roads and don't tow a trailer.
If you look at it carefully, most of the work they are going to do is "CHECK" this and "INSPECT" that. To me, it means nothing because anything need to be replaced will be extra.
You are a 30 year old (smart) woman (since you pick the camry over the other )
So what you might want to do is to have the dealer do the oil change, then buy a air filter from the them and put it on yourself. It's easy, no tool is required. An easier way is to buy the air filter ahead of time and when you go do the oil change, just ask the service to put it on for you, they should do it for free since it's a 30 second job.
FYI - even an oil change they will normally do an visual inspection so you don't need to worry about by not doing the 15k miles service, you might miss something.
Cost? less than half.
Personally, I'd use an independent garage with a good reputation to do the oil change and underbody and fluid level checks, and have the tires rotated at America's Tire if you already have free lifetime rotation. While the tires are off, they can check the brakes. Your total cost should be on the order of $50 to $75 combined.
Unlike Lou, I believe the visual checks are useful, especially for someone who isn't familiar with the workings of cars. You could learn to check the underhood fluid levels yourself, since all of the reservoirs are see-through plastic. And if you pull the oil dipstick first thing in the morning before you start the car, you'll get an accurate reading without having to wipe it off and re-insert it (assuming the car is on level ground).
Also, if you haven't done so, purchase a tire air pressure gauge to check the inflation pressure. It's the best way to find out if you have a slow leak due to a nail or other objected embedded in the tire. Also, tires naturally lose air over time and when the outside temperature drops.
BTW, the Toyota maintenance guide doesn't call for replacing the air filter and pollen filter till 30K miles, but it doesn't hurt to replace then sooner if you drive through dust frequently.
This thing about doing occasional 1/2 tank fulls and saying you got 40 mpg just doesn't fly.
you can't do one tankfull here and there and say anything about mpg. Especially 1/2 tanks (these figures are even more subject to the inaccuracies I pointed out in my earlier reply). The only way is to keep a constant track of every tankful; "pretty consistent" doesn't mean anything (are you implying you got 20 mpg between the "40")?
The most telling indication of inaccurate mpg boasts is that it suggests a much greater range than ever experienced. Since there is a 18.5 gallon tank in the 04-05 camry, - you should have a range of around 700 miles without going anywhere near dry (e.g., 17 gallons x "40 mpg" = 680 miles).
So what was the most miles you drove between fillups?
Hope this helps clarify.
Ken
1) Dealer does the same things as what other repair shops do but they charge more eg: oil change at your dealer is $25 at Firestone, Pepboys etc $15. Some places even do it for $10. Your dealer wants you to spend your money there so they will make the simplest of things sound like a heart transplant so don't be afraid. They are just trying to make a quick buck. Always remember when you walk into a dealership that you will probably be paying more than what is normally charged at other places.
2) As long as you save all your repair documents properly you won't have any problems with the warranty aspect. So don't be afraid to take it to other places.
3) It is always good to change the oil at 3k there is nothing wrong with that. It is a good practice. Oil breaks down fast at very high temperature so they go from the light golden color to black by 3k+ miles. Most people don't wait for fear of oil suldge development and i won't blame them. It has been a big concern in the past.
4) It is ok to change your air filter at 15k (thats another $15. You can do this on your own). Refer to your manual it is very easy to inspect the air filter. If it looks too dirty or clogged up replace it.
5) Check your Tire pressure and have them rotated. This way you will have even wear on you tires and they last longer. Refer back to your manual.
So to summarize get the oil changed and have your tires rotated. If you have any more questions don't hestitate to post it.
Also, I have had previous experience with Firestone repair centers.... Suffice it to say I would NEVER let them lay a hand on my car again!
I suggest you repost in our Questions About Auto Insurance & Accidents discussion since this is not a Camry-specific incident.
Hope it works out for you - let us know how it goes.
******FOUND THE SOLUTION TO DISABLE THE SEAT BELT CHIME***************
Well, no wiring mod is required. Here is the procedure:
1. Set the LCD on the combination meter to the ODO trip.
2. Press and hold the TRIP meter reset knob for ten seconds or more within six seconds of turning the ignition switch to the ON position. Fastening the driver's seat belt while holding the knob cancels the buzzer reminder. (You may have to hit the reset meter knob to cycle through b-ON to b-OFF)
3. When this occurs, the LCD displays "b-OFF". The buzzer reminder can be switched between ON and OFF each time the TRIP meter knob is pressed. The LCD displays "b-ON" or "b-OFF" according to the buzzer reminder ON/OFF status. The display changes to the ODO or trip meter if the knob is not pressed in 10 seconds.
4) Performing steps 1) and 2) again when the buzzer reminder is off exits cancel mode.
I think you are referring to the 1995 Finnish car mag study. Here's a quote from a 2003 study posted on the Corrolland board.
"If I had to pick 5 out of the 10 as being the best, I would pick the Purolator PureOne, K&N, Toyota, Wix, and Purolator PremiumPlus as this group."
It would comforting to think that, given Toyota's engine sludge problems, they wouldn't scrimp on the oil filter but who knows.
My dealer also has periodic specials where I could buy a few oil filters for a relative bargain, if I wanted to do it myself. CarMax used to have a $10 oil change for anyone, but I don't know about quality ... and you could supply a Toyota filter ... Just a few options.
And for folks who say "I'm just a woman," there are usually courses at the local college or high school titled something like car repair for women. If you are not physically able, or just don't want to do the repairs... that's OK. But it is still a good idea to understand what is going on, so that you can make a better decision.
Also, I get my tires rotated for free at the local Discount Tire (not everywhere in the US). But some tire places have this option.
I have an '04 Camry SE 4 Cyl and I change oil every 5K per manual. The dealer has a soft recommendation for 3K... but has no problem with 5K.
One question I haven't had answered adequately - the manual is ambiguous - is whether I have a timing belt that needs to be changed every 90K mi? I have a long time to go, but I don't know what time of maintenance I will need ... in 6 years.
Finally, I have 15K miles and I just drove 150 miles on the highway at 65 MPH at around 2100 RPM and I got 31 MPG. I am not yet averaging 30 MPG... but I see a trend.
- hank2
I don't think this is possible. There must be another explanation. Have you tried another Camry to compare the ride?
Did the dealer put on the exact same tires. If they put on cheap ones that could affect the ride. What is the current tire pressure?
As you are undoubtedly aware, tires gradually lose pressure over time. The maximum inflation pressure for your tires, BTW, would likely be 44 psi, which applies to tires in use, not stationary on a boat, train, or transport truck. The max. bead seating pressure during mounting on the wheel is typically 40 psi.
The dealer is supposed to adjust the air pressure during predelivery inspection. Obviously, your dealer did not perform a proper predelivery inspection. It's pretty galling when the window sticker says dealer prep is included in the price and most dealers add a so-called processing fee on top of that. So, I'd seriously consider looking for another dealer, since they also "forgot" to mention the free 1000-mile service (which is not offered by the factory).
It's also common for the dealers to overlook the spare tire. On my 2005 Camry, it was still inflated to 50 psi!
BTW, I think 29 psi is too low, used only for comfort. I routinely go with 34-35 psi and haven't experienced uneven tire wear. I did the same with my '97 Camry.
If you look in the fine print in the owner's manual, it even recommends 35 psi when traveling above 75 mph. To me, that's further evidence that 29 psi is for comfort, as opposed to handling/safety/high-speed temperature resistance. It'll provide better fuel economy also.
The SE is actually a better value than the LE, especially if you can find one with no options. Which trim level Accord do you drive? The DX, VP, and LX 4 cylinders all use rear drums, for what thats worth. If you're happy with the Accord, why not get another?
The Camry, only 8 months away from replacement, is now something of a lame duck model as far as I can see. It is an incredible value, however (as is the Accord, which is being pushed out dealer doors with significant factory to dealer incentives... my buddy just picked up a $23K MSRP EX 4 for 19.8K before TTL in PA).
~alpha
The somewhat mushy pedal feel is a function of the brake booster and another story entirely.
Have you tried your car on better roads, like the New Jersey Turnpike or I-78 west of Newark?
Instead of renting another Camry, can you get a dealer to let you test-drive one for an hour or two?
I'll concede that as a possible slight advantage in an older vehicle The point I was making was that a properly sized drum brake can produce all the torque that most passenger cars ever need. Disc brakes also operate better when wet because the rotors fling off the water which can collect in the bottom of the drum.
Disc brakes are a significant cost penalty which is why GM and Ford are returning to drum brakes on some of their light duty pickups.
We're delighted with our '05 Mazda3 S with 4 wheel disc brakes. Stops on a dime with a very reassuring feel to the pedal. True we gave up better mpg's with the 3, but we felt the brakes were so much better and with all of us driving, we sleep better at night. Also the Mazda is a kick to drive!
Zoom Zoom y'all!
the Sandman
~alpha
Zoom Zoom!
The Sandman
compared it to the Sonata 2006 GL/GLS. They really didn't drop the price on the sonata (300-400) from MSRP of 19500 or 20000 GL/GLS models. The camry was driven and we thought it was a very good car. The brakes weren't that bad and the AC was better on this car. The tach was 2200 RPM at 70MPH. It had a MSRP of 20,865 and we got it for 4000 off of that plus the taxes (300 in SC) and fees/title etc.. of 480. I think I got a great deal. I know Edmunds doesn't want to say the name of the salesman but he did one hell of a job and didn't mess around. He came back with the best price and really wanted to sell a car (didn't get that impression from the hyundai dealer in terms of pricing). This dealer is the highest volume dealer in SC if that helps. Good luck to all camry owners!!!! Thanks for the info and discussion.
The radiator of my 1990 Camry 2 Litre GLI is leaking at the top below the header chamber. Replacement is costly so have decided to try RADWELD to keep the old bus going. I need to know the cooling water capacity as there are different size bottles of product specified.
Any replies will be much appreciated
Cadman
I found a replacement radiator on line for about $125.00 shipped. You may want to check that out, since overheating that engine will essentially total that car.
4 cylinder models:
2005: 160 horses and 163 foot pounds
2006: 154 horses and 160 foot pounds
3.0L V6 in LE/XLE
2005: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds
2006: 190 horses and 197 foot pounds
3.3L V6 in SE
2005: 225 horses and 240 foot pounds
2006: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds
What gives? I recall reading something about the SAE recalculating output, but cant find anything now, and if this was the case, why hasnt this affected models of other manufacturers?
~alpha
4 cylinder models:
2005: 160 horses and 163 foot pounds
2006: 154 horses and 160 foot pounds
3.0L V6 in LE/XLE
2005: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds
2006: 190 horses and 197 foot pounds
3.3L V6 in SE
2005: 225 horses and 240 foot pounds
2006: 210 horses and 220 foot pounds
What gives? I recall reading something about the SAE recalculating output, but cant find anything now, and if this was the case, why hasnt this affected models of other manufacturers? If theres an article ANYWHERE- mags, web, etc, please let me know so I can read it.
Thanks in advance!
~alpha
Edit...OK. I called home..page 42 Aug 2005 Motor Trend
I havent read the article, but I do hope that all manufacturers will soon use the updated, more accurate calculations, or else that could lead to some very confusing comparisons between competitors.
Thanks again
alpha