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Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier

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Comments

  • john_fjohn_f Member Posts: 30
    I special ordered a Camry SE V6 w/VSC, side curtain airbags, adjustable pedals, etc. and received the car in 12/04. We agreed on a specific price (invoice +$200). I did not make any down payment and was not contractually obligated to buy the car if I did not like it or it had any problems.

    Thje car arrived on time, but I believe it was closer to a promised 12 weeks. I took the 3 years 0% interest instead of the cash rebate. The car is a pleasure. Special order is great if you can manage the wait.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    folks had posted about tires and grip....

    I have a 2002 Camry with 37K miles. At 15K I no longer could stand the poor traction offered by the Camry and it's Continental tires It was just turning winter and the car was unsafe to drive. Never had I been in a FWD vehicle with such new tires that performed so poorly in the snow and rain. I switched to BF Goodrich traction T/As. They were much better but I still would qualify this Camry among the worst I have driven in so far as traction was concerned.

    Well, I got 22K miles out of the T/As and I opted for another new set since winter was almost here again. The tire dude said the T/A could perhaps have lasted another 3K or so. He said they were H rated and as such do not last as long as regular tires. (They also cost more too!)

    I switched back to 'regular' tires. I was told it was safe to do so though they may not perform as well cornering at high speed. Personally, I notice no difference. Also, I switched back to a trusty brand that I had used for years until I tried the T/As. Its an American made brand called Jetson. The model is Genesis. I have been through at least 6 sets of this brand in my life and never had a problem. It will be interesting to see what kind of traction they provide in the months ahead. It was $320 out the door for the 4 tires. They should have a usable life of closer to 30K miles as well.
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Member Posts: 7,160
    Mileage gratings seem to be all over the board. Weird. Mine based on both my 97 LE ( 170K+ miles ) and my 2000 CE ( 50K+ ) are nearly identical at abt 32-33 mpg on a daily basis. Range is abt 525 miles on 16+ gal per refill.

    Caveat; I live 75 miles from work so my trip 5 or 6 times a week is 150 miles daily at 50-65 mph with very few stops.

    It's not great for the engine but I can get all the way to work, 75 miles, with the fuel warning light on ( 2-3 gal reserve in the tank ). The refill then is 17+ gal.

    kdhspyder
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Well, your mileage is all highway, and my '97 Camry LE 4-cylinder got about the same or slightly better on long trips.

    Mileage ratings will be all over the board primarily because of the way different people drive and the type of driving they do.
  • georgetownhsgeorgetownhs Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Camry with about 39,000 miles- City driving primarily. I had to replace the factory battery in December 2004; then about 1 month in Jan 2005 I once again went out to the car and it wouldn't start up....got AAA to come out and was told it was my "new" battery! Went to the same shop-they checked the battery and said it was bad and got a new one-probably a lemon they said; now it's Sept and it happened again! The car wouldn't start; AAA just gave me a boost and the car started right up! The AAA driver told me I wasn't driving the car enough...just get the battery checked....not the alternator....well I parked it again and that evening the same thing happened....wouldn't start....called AAA again and once again they just gave me a boost and the car started right up!

    What's killing these batteries!!!!! Anyone else having a problem with their battery being killed by something????? Does it seem strange that I had to get 2 batteries in less than a year? There are no alarms except the factory installed panic alarm buttom that goes off when I press the wrong button!
  • petlpetl Member Posts: 610
    Who installed the battery?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "The AAA driver told me I wasn't driving the car enough...just get the battery checked....not the alternator...."

    I'm not implying that the AAA guy is a moron, but until you get the alternator* load tested, you cannot rule that possibility out. Most national autoparts chains (Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Autozone, etc.) can perform an alternator load test while you wait. (Doesn't it seem at all odd to you that TWO brand new replacement batteries have "failed"?)

    *Virtually all alternators these days have the voltage regulator built-in. It's just as possible your replacement batteries are failing from overcharging as from undercharging if the voltage regulator tanked.
  • georgetownhsgeorgetownhs Member Posts: 4
    I got the battery from the AAA approved repair shop
  • georgetownhsgeorgetownhs Member Posts: 4
    Well more mystery....once AAA last charged up my battery-this happened Monday night- I drove the car to my mechanic's shop and left it there for the next morning. I couldn't get there Tues to give him the keys !!

    I went this morning, Wednesday, and the damn car started right up!!!! My mechanic told me he checked the alternator and found nothing!!! He's still checking however to figure out the problem....I'll pass this information to him.....Thanks!
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Now it's starting to look increasingly like a head$cratcher... Sounds like you're in good hands, though.
  • georgetownhsgeorgetownhs Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the sympathy....I'll need it when I see my mechanic today!!!
  • hraohrao Member Posts: 78
    does anyone know of NHTSA crash test rating for CAMRY, did it get a 5 star ?
    any information appreciated
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    This is a better place for that kind of information
    http://www.iihs.org/ratings/ratingsbyseries.aspx?id=291
  • chankaishichankaishi Member Posts: 7
    Anybody has instructions how to program remote control for Camry 2000 to unlock all doors on single press of unlock button instead of double press?
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    Just did a tune-up on my Camry but I am hesitant to R&R the fuel filter (I have already bought one).

    When I unbolt the In and Out lines will gas spurt out? How do I prevent gas from streaming out?

    Can I unbolt the In line from the engine bay or is it usually accessed from under the car? The Out line looks easily accessible from the top of the engine bay.

    I rather not go to a garage or dealer for this fuel filter change.

    Thanks in advance for any step by step instructions or advice. John
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    I had two '94 camrys (same model as yours). disconnect battery. Take off or move the air cleaner rubber hose so you can see the filter on the firewall. Remove either the top banjo nut or the bottom fitting on the fuel line (use a flare wrench, I think it's a 14MM or you'll strip the soft fitting. On my first two changes on both cars, I used an adjustable wrench and was fine but the third attempt on my second camry, I stripped the nut and even with the flare wrench I bought, it spun). After you get both off (of course once you break one nut, it will leak some gas), remove the two or loosen the two screws on the housing holding it to the car and slip it out. Replacement is opp. of removal. watch the washers too for sequence and check for leaks after tightened. hope this helps.
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    chevymalibu - Thanks a millon - I'll follow your directions and give it a go. John
  • leob1leob1 Member Posts: 153
    On my 05 SE last oil change, the dealer(of all places) overfilled the crankcase by about 1 quart. On the dipstick they went way past the full mark and up to a notch on the stick as if that were the full indicator. I brought it to the service managers attention. No leaks or damage resulting, but I did drain about a quart in frustration with the service department's lack of attention to detail. It's rediculous, I've seen this happen on other vehicles I've had in the past as well from different places that should be experts on the subject. Never had a leak or any damage result so far, but you never know.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Did you have to drain the oil yourself, or did the dealer do it?

    I'd never go back there. Talk about stupid. If you have the 4-cylinder, it takes 4 quarts exactly, including with the filter. How hard is that to do?
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Most car dealers and "Gypie Lubes" fill via a hose from bulk drums delivered to the dealership by a wholesale oil distributor. (Nothing inherently wrong with that, but some less than reputable dealers and "Gypie Lubes" have been sucessfully prosecuted for filling customer cars with reclaimed used oil sold as new product.) The discharge nozzle is "dialed in" to automatically dispense the nominal amount required for a given engine. (That's IF the oil-change monkey remembers...) These things aren't always as accurate as they should be, either - and too frequently they're just as likely to overfill as underfill as you discovered. (a few ounces is one thing, but a quart is literally WAY over the top - ya' done good draining out the excess.) One more reason I do my own oil and oil filter changes. At least I know how much motor oil I'm pouring in my crancase. (and what brand and what service quality)

    By the way, if any of you are approaching an oil change, either do it or buy sufficient oil for several oil changes SOON. Katie and Rita did a number on base oil supplies. Several additive suppliers that sell to the major blenders are also on the ropes to fulfill contract obligations and have declared "force majeur" (a contractual "out" for reasons beyond their control). When current stock of finished motor oil in the retail channel is depleted, the price of motor oil is gonna go up by a considerable amount. "Lube Report" got it from industry insiders off the record it may be April, 2006 before shipments resume normal schedules.
  • gardner5236gardner5236 Member Posts: 20
    Since we are on the topic of changing oil, does anyone know a way of changing the filter without getting oil all over your arm? I have tried everything that I could think of....turning it fast....turning it slow....tilting it a little. Also, does anyone use Lucas oil stabilizer in their Camry. What are your thoughts on this product? I heard that it makes the oil slicker and protects better at start up as well as extending the life of your oil by 50%. That would mean oil changes at 4500 instead of 3000. Thanks everyone.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "does anyone use Lucas oil stabilizer in their Camry."

    You will not find one piece of objective data that says oil additives do anything other than put money in the pockets of their manufacturers. Use a good quality oil and follow the manufacturers recommendation (which is probably a lot longer than 3000 miles).
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Don't use additives in the oil, period, as lmacmil said.

    The Camry can go 6 months or 5000 miles, whichever comes first, between oil changes per the maintenance schedule.

    As for not getting oil to run down your arm, it's not possible (I'm assuming you have the 4-cylinder engine like me). I wear rubber gloves to keep hot oil off my skin. To minimize the problem, turn the filter just enough until oil runs out and down. Wait a minute or so and then start turning it some more.
  • iotadelta86iotadelta86 Member Posts: 3
    Hey all...I am 20 years old, and I think I want to get a 2005 Camry. The particular one that I want is an 05 LE with 17,500 miles on it and it is the phantom gray color... They are asking $18,900.00 I believe. The car itself is in good shape, one concern is that the 'Maintenance Required" light is on. I am wondering if possibly the pepoplel didnt change the oil yet enough? I am in Louisiana, and were still slow around here cuz of Katrina and the car was just taken in today so they had not detailed it or changed the oil, etc. Is this a good price? What should I look for in a newer Camry? What are some problem areas? Is getting it "Certified" worth it? Thanks for your help in advance!
  • guillguill Member Posts: 94
    I don't think $18,900 is a good price for this car. Explore the Used Cars section of Edmunds.com and look up the value of a used Camry with the exact specifications of the one you're looking at. FWIW, I paid $18,600 for my 05 Camry SE (phantom grey also) ... this was for a new car, hence why I think the asking price for the Camry you're looking at is too high.
  • gardner5236gardner5236 Member Posts: 20
    I purchased my new 05 Camry LE for $18,500. I would see how much you could get a new one for especially with Toyotathon going on. As far as the "maintenance required" light being on, it comes on every 5,000 miles as per the maintenance schedule. I had to call Toyota to find out how to reset this because I change my own oil. So it's possible to change the oil as required but still have that light on if you don't know how to reset it. I am sure the current owner changed the oil with 17,500 miles on the vehicle. I hope that I helped you.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    It seems you can get a new one for the same price. The "maintenance required" light is easy to reset -- and the owner's manual tells you how to do it.

    You really don't know if the previous owner changed the oil often enough unless you have the service receipts -- highly unlikely if you're looking at a car sold by a dealer.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    geez, I paid 16900 for a new 2005 camry LE with 4 miles on it. I'd bargain a little lower. as for the light, they might have not reset it themselves even though the oil was changed. I did my first change at 2860 and at 5000 miles the light came on.
  • chevymalibuchevymalibu Member Posts: 129
    I just went from NC to NJ and did 1091 miles and got 37MPG with some sitting in traffic and minor city driving.
  • nate77nate77 Member Posts: 2
    There is a certified 2005 camry le, with the option b pkg and 34000 miles, and all in all, they can get me to just over 15000, and between 7-11%. Is that good? Also, can I have them bring in another car from another dealership?

    Thanks
  • iotadelta86iotadelta86 Member Posts: 3
    thanks everyone...I have been driving an Infiniti J30t for the last four years or so and it has been becoming a money pit for awhile, and it has a blown rear shock. I now commute about 25 miles to work after class, so I want something that is larger and more comfortable, and does not require premium fuel! :P I guess I will keep searching, but I would prefer to use the dealership that I went to the other day (Northshore Toyota in Covington, Louisiana) because I have dealt with them before, and I find them to be very professional and easy to work with. I will keep everyone posted, and I hope you will continue to give me some tips on used camry's (05's). I do know that I want an LE, or an SE with the 17in wheels (i dont care for the basic alloys on the SE because they look dated) the search continues....
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Once again, I have a 03 V6 Camry that has had a creaking steering wheel problem, during cold temps that goes away after the car has warmed up. The dealer has greased the steering column 3 times but it comes back after a few months. Has anyone here had a similar experience or know of anyone who did. Thanks.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Shoot, I even creak and pop when I'm cold . . . ;) Seriously, I believe just about all cars use a double yoke and swivel universal joint to elliminate the possibility of the steering wheel being jammed into the driver in the event of a frontal collision. Since the annoying creaking only occurs when cold, I suspect somewhat tight clearances in the working parts that results in the creaking after the grease works its way out after several months. If your car is still under the bumper-to-bumper warranty, you might request replacement of the steering column U-joint. But, if it'll be on your nickel, I doubt the expense would be worthwhile since it is temperature related, not constant. Keep your service receipts if the re-greasing has been performed under warranty. That way, should the noise become constant after the warranty period is over, you would have grounds for a post-warranty replacement since the dealer's techs never satisfactorily dealt with the problem while the car was under warranty and it worsened. Another, more immediate avenue, would be to contact Toyota USA customer service and B-L-H.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Thanks (haefr). I want to be sure it's not one of the steering components like a ball joint or tie rod end "telegraphing" its problem up the steering shaft. It's strange, but as I was on my way to pick up the car from the dealer, "Car Talk" was on the radio and some guy with an Audi called in a similar problem and Click n Clack said that the Audi had 8 ball joints in the front end and was known to require early replacement. The dealer said it was occurring at some pivot point in the steering, he's going to check with Toyota to see if anyone else is having the problem and said they did not have a TSB on it.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    For what it's worth, the fact that the noise is temporarily alleviated by greasing the steering column suggests to me that it's not the result of the front suspension system ball joints or the steering system tie rod bushings. It also sounds like your dealer is interested in working with you on this problem. (Try owning a Hyundai Sonata as I do, and hearing the service writer ask, "Your want us to fix what? Really?")
  • ktybluegreenktybluegreen Member Posts: 2
    Began experiencing odor - garage said "sulpher; broken guage before converter, continually dumping fuel; repaired for $400" -- but still have the issue... Garage said, well, guage was in fact broken; now need to Further explore why still an odor. But they can't determine. Offering to put in on computer evaluation tool again, but that only tells 'the neighborhood' of problem, not 'the exact house.' And they seem to be clueless for even guessing what could be the cause. Has anyone else had such experience? Or have any guesses? [Doubt relevant, but 1997 Toyota Camry; about 72,000 miles] Thanks!...
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Is this a "rotten egg" odor? If so, you may have kissed $400.00 goodbye unnecessarily. The cause of a "rotten egg" odor is high sulfur content in the gasoline. During combustion, the excess sulfur reacts with hydrogen to form hydrogen-sulfide gas. The same gas is formed under different chemistry when raw eggs go bad. Try a tankfull of a different, name-brand gasoline. (In the wake of Katrina and Wilma, some independent gas stations are scarfing up gasoline supply wherever they can with no regard for the quality of the crap they're dispensing. Until the refineries are back up to full production, it would probably be best to stick to major brand gasolines from company-owned or leased stations as a quality hedge. Hydrogen-sulfide gas is no friend to your car's engine - excess bearing chewing acidity in the motor oil.)
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Haefr answered you perfectly well; I just hope you can get your $400 back, since it looks like your shop goofed big time.
  • ktybluegreenktybluegreen Member Posts: 2
    Yes, on the type of odor. In immed. going back to garage saying problem wasn't fixed, they did ask about my gas use. I do predominantly use a 'name brand' gas, though Reg. grade. IF this were the culprit - 1. Would a residue of 'mom & pop' gas hang on so long, even after several refills of 'name brand'? 2. Would upgrading from Reg. to Premium make a difference? Maybe a gas treatment/additive? (Obviously trying would bear that out.) Elsewise, the garage said maybe my car is "just running at the lowest end of the spectrum of "normal" for emission smell." ??? But it really seems unacceptable. Also, if important, the 'Check Eng.' light had been coming on as this issue began, though it was not consistent - and I know such could mean little to nothing. Smell is more evident in climbing hills; using cruise control - but still always evident. Guess gas switch would be my first - well, okay, second - attempt at solution; and least radical. As far as getting a refund - they stand firm that the guage was indeed broken; fact or fiction, I'm not in position to prove differently for all the obvious reasons. And they said, when they first told me of problem, that it didn't Have to be fixed right now, but if I didn't address it, I would only run into a much larger bill down the road as the continual dump of fuel negatively impacted my converter... ?? I feel like I really am at the mercy of mechanics, and don't have a lot of options where I live. Thought I had a good relationship with these folks, could trust them. Do wish I'd come to this Forum first to try easiest fix first - but will now; see what happens...

    Also seeing things like coolant issue - mold in air conditioning (did just buy used in Apr. so didn't use air until May/June) - heater core? - inherent TSB (what's that?) issue with Toyota cars? Lemon Law??

    Thanks for the feedback!!
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    "1. Would a residue of 'mom & pop' gas hang on so long, even after several refills of 'name brand'? 2. Would upgrading from Reg. to Premium make a difference? Maybe a gas treatment/additive?"

    No. Try a different brand gasoline (again, national name, and seek out a company-owned station that is contractually required to purchase its supply from the named U.S. refiner). This problem will pass in a few months or less, but for now car owners will have to be vigilant - especially in the midwest and southwest where wildcat tanktruck drivers might be hauling gasoline of questionable quality into the U.S. from Mexico. If that's happening, (and I'd be willing to bet a month's pension check it is) there's a further possibility these fuel pirates could also be "cutting" the questionable product with an even cheaper gasoline blend equivalent of "hamburger helper" to further hike their profits. Regular, mid-grade, or premium - makes no difference if your car normally operates well on regular. If the regular gasoline is inferior, it'll just as likely be inferior in the other two advertised octane grades, too. You'd just be tossing 10 or 20 cents extra per gallon away. It's the sulfur content in the gasoline itself and no additive will miraculously get rid of that.
  • mrsacksmrsacks Member Posts: 6
    Well you can count me among the "I HATE TOYOTA" and their dealers club!!! After 37(loyal) years of owning Toyotas (first was a new '69 Corona) I've had it with them. Batteries keep die-ing on my '03 Camry XLE with 14 K miles and the dealer says there is nothing wrong with the electrical system, meanwhile the 3rd battery in one week is now dead! And oh by the way, "since you didn't buy the replacement battery from us we are going to charge you for the diagnostic time spent on the car even though it is under warranty", Huh !?!?! When I (loudly) insist that there is no way I'm paying for diagnostic check, service rep blurts out "you're a complainer. You complained about service when you filled out the Toyota Corp Customer Service card in December 2004!" He tells me that Toyota headquarters sent back my comments to the dealer and it is now on file!!!! (I said that I thought recommending new PCV valve after one year and 6K miles was sneaky since the owner's manual did not call for it and that the dealer's customer service rep did not return my calls.) So hey did any of you know Toyota Corp is doing this AND it would be held against you!. By the way I use the dealer - my car's oil/filter is changed by them every 3-4 months (even though I only drive about 6 K year! at the same dealer I bought it from...) My neighbor who services Audi / Porches advised me that there is definitely an electrical system problem such as Parasidic draw or short circuit which he has tested for. Now it is a question of tracking it down. I am in the process of contacting the Regional Toyota Service office, but don't hold out much hope. Keep you all posted. Needless to say the reputation that Toyota dealers are getting are well deserved! ! !. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The obvious retort for the dealer is "Why did you give me something that I had to complain about?"

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • darren89darren89 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same car. I bought it new in 93. I can tell you exactly what it is: On the 93 camry, the hydrolic power steering valve has been known to go after 10 years or 150K miles. I too have had the same problem, but here's a few tips to fix it easily. The valve may not necessarily be broken, it is just worn. To make it easier on the power steering, try adding more air to the tires, and filling the power steering fluid to the top max line. On mine i put 37 PSI in each tire(i have firestones). Your tires may vary. If those few things don't solve the problem, then the only fix is to replace the valve.

    If you repair the valve yourself:

    The valve is located on the power steering rack/pinion control chamber/bar, located in the middle of the rack, under the car. the valve is connected to the top, on the end of the bar(right end if you are looking at the bar from the front). Before changing, MAKE SURE you drain the existing power steering fluid by removing the pressure adjustment screw with a wrench. After you've done that, remove the valve assembly on top of the bar. The valve is circular, looks a little like a fat spark plug. The valve is available from a Toyota dealer. Unscrew the valve after the lines have been removed. Remove the valve. Insert the new valve and rubber washer into the assembly. Tighten the valve to manufacturer specifications. It might say it in the manual. replace the lines, assembly screws, pressure/drain bolt, and refil the resivior. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel left and right to it's limits, 2 or 3 times to check for proper functioning. You should now have no lock-up of the steering wheel.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Any one have the TSB details on this...it relates to wind/door noise on the front door. Thanks!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You should also try asking in our Technical Service Bulletins discussion ... let us know what you hear.
  • vikeevikee Member Posts: 4
    Be careful when buying new just for the longevity and dependability. I've had my 2005 Camry to the dealership six times with less than 5K, this year. I finally went through arbitration for the # of repairs and found out that the warranty only covers conditions which "substantially impair the use, value or safety of the vehicle" and guess who defines those terms. I have a $20,000+ car which I'm terrified of driving. Toyota says it's not defective, just different. Good luck with your choice. VS
  • vikeevikee Member Posts: 4
    I've had a 95 and 96, both were far superior to the 2005, with no problems and both had over 90,000 miles. Only had basic suggested service to both. How many miles on the one you're looking at?
  • vikeevikee Member Posts: 4
    Let me tell you about newer Camrys, many are getting lots lower mileage than advertised. I'm getting around 24 with a 4 cylinder and I drive very conservatively. Also they are now using a new computer driven transmission which is driving a lot of people, including service technicians, crazy. Mine gives you whiplash, in fact we'd gotten so used to it that when we drove our daughter's new Altima my husband finally admitted that for a year now, he's thought I just couldn't drive very well. There are some real issues with the wire-free throttle, and Toyota is racking up a lot of customer complaints. Check Florida's Lemon Law website. Toyota has more pages than almost any other brand. It was a great company, but there are certainly better choices now. Good Luck. VS
  • vikeevikee Member Posts: 4
    Yes, I'm having some kind of problem which the dealership thought was the transmission, although they changed springs and tires for me before doing a solenoid. It vibrates noticiably from about 40-50 mph. The factory rep even stated that it vibrates, but that's normal and it's "different not defective". What it really is, is scary. I have issues with the whip lash throttle operation. My chiropractor loves it though, so it can't be all bad. Bummer to buy a new car and hate it. VS
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Anyone have any info and specifics on this bulliten which relates to Wind noise / door fix on Camry's.
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