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Comments
Carol
On selecting a dealer or mechanic, here are some concepts:
1. If it is under warranty, the first and last things that you say are "I need to bring the car in under warranty" and "I need for you to verify that the work is being covered under warranty" so you don't get charged. If any hesitation on this, go to another dealer, or report it to Toyota Corporation immediately. Don't feel obligated to go to the place you bought your car, especially if they have issues.
2. If not under warranty, get a quote. If they won't give you a quote, go to another dealer. If they give you a ridiculous quote, go to another dealer. If you get two ridiculous quotes, go to a third dealer.
3. Dealer case in point. I used to have the valve clearances checked on my car every 60K or so, in association with replacing the spark plugs and valve cover gasket. Other than removing the valve cover gasket and spark plugs, there is really no other labor other than to put a feeler gage between the 16 valves and write down the number. Occasionally, a shim would need to be swapped out, which required a couple special tools and an additional 5 minutes of labor.
The labor cost for this is around 1.5 hours, or about $100. Recently, however, when I called 4 dealers (including two who had done the exact same work before), I got estimates ranging from $280 to $400 and 4 to 6 hours of labor. I got all sorts of complete crap talk about what needed to be removed and replaced, and how much time it took. Fact is, the car hasn't changed, and the difficulty in doing a valve clearance check hasn't changed either.
What has changed is that mechanics either don't have a clue what they are doing, or think customers don't either, and, therefore, they will charge and replace whatever they see fit.
4. Independent shops- Case in point. Earlier this week, I brought my car in to an independent shop for a clutch job, disgusted with dealer estimates of $700-900 for something that should cost $400-500. I don't do major repair work on my car, but one thing I do check is to see if there are any missing parts before, and after, a repair job. I also do minor maintenance.
When I picked up my car, my clutch was fixed but I was told that there was an oil leak on the right side of the engine, and that the air intake hose had a split in it. Accordingly, I looked under the car to view this leak, and noted that two of five bolts to the center gravel shield were not secure (one completely gone, the second hanging from the frame).
I told the shop owner, who told me the bolts were rusty, and I needed to obtain fasteners from a Toyota dealer, then return the car and leave it with him. I went to a Toyota dealer, who informed me that the bolts were secured to nuts welded into the interior of tubular frame components, and the only way to correct it was to remove the radiator, drill an access hole, and weld a nut to the inside.
I then noticed that two additional bolts which held the catalytic convert and pipe assembly mount in place were not there at all.
So I obtained the four missing bolts and went back to the clutch shop and told them what the Toyota dealer said. My expectations were not high, basically, I told them to "take a look" and if they could figure out some way of securing them, "I brought the correct bolts".
I picked up the car about an hour ago. I asked if they had any ideas about what to do over stripped out nuts. Their response was: "you are wasting our time over a gravel guard". Mine was: "you told me to go over to Toyota and come back to you with the parts, and that is what I did". Then, they complained when I asked for the two new bolts back that they didn't install.
Now, in my former life, I did do quite alot of auto work and I've seen rusted bolts as well. When I see a rusted bolt, I spray penetrating oil on it. But this clutch shop just grabs the air-wrench and lets it rip. I suspect many others do the same.
I guess the lesson here is to "pre-soak" any slightly rusted parts before bringing a car for repair.
On the bright side, the clutch is smooth as silk. Got what I paid for, I think. A discount clutch job.
5. Petty ripoffs - like PCV valves, air filters, etc. That's really petty and I can't figure out why some shops even try it.
I do appreciate it if they tell me there's an inch of wiggle in a wheel and the bearing needs to be replaced.
I also previously owned a 3rd generation (92-96) Camry. My Camry was a 92 and it was absolutely a fantastic car. Was it better than my 05? Hard to say now as I sold the 92 over 8 years ago and don't quite trust my dated perceptions of this car. Though I would tend to say that from what I remember, the 92 was probably a bit more of a substantial/quality car.
Of importance to note is that the 3rd generation Camry was produced when Toyota was hitting a home run with their new Lexus line of autos. Auto magazines were singing praises about Toyota and the superb quality and reliability of their vehicles. Around 96-97 Toyota executives admitted that they got caught up in the accolades and actually stated they thought they went too far with injecting quality into every vehicle in their lineup. A quote from the article (to the best of my memory), "we were making a Tercel like it was a Lexus, obviously a Tercel doesn't have to be up to that standard."
Also remember that the late 80s/early 90s was the pinnacle of the Quality movement in Japan. Thus I do believe that Toyota, and all Japanese cars, have diminished in quality ... only minimally though.
When comparing Toyota to any domestic or European auto manufacturer, Toyota still comes out on top.
Keep in mind also, that any complaints of poor quality in Toyotas are magnified by the fact that so few complaints are heard. When Toyotas do suffer from a chronic problem it makes the news. But you can be certain that domestic autos have more than their share of chronic defects ... but since this is more common with domestic autos no one makes such a big deal about it.
I imagine there are a lot of complaints on the Florida website ... when I purchase a Toyota I expect it to last forever. However if I bought a domestic auto, say a Dodge, then I wouldn't be nearly as surprised if it manifested major problems.
Assuming you recall the quote correctly, I think what was meant referred to the level of luxury, not quality as defined by reliability. Every manufacturer strives for 100% reliability as measured in repairs per 100 vehicles.
The design differences between a Camry XLE and a Lexus ES330 relate to specifications of the materials and switchgear. In the Lexus, the leather is a little softer, the plastics a little more luxurious looking, the switches somewhat smoother. I'm sure the head quality executive at Toyota expects both of them to be trouble-free, i.e., equally reliable.
Quality can be defined in a number of ways ...
2 a : degree of excellence : GRADE b : superiority in kind
For the intent of the article I believe the above definition taken from Merriam-Webster most closely fits.
I also clearly remember when the 4th generation Camry came out many in the automotive circles spoke of how the new model had suffered from "decontenting".
Keeping all this in mind, I still believe that the Camry represents one of the best choices for a mid-size car. I do believe it isn't quite up to the standards of the 92-96 generation Camry, but when compared to the competition it still beats most of them in terms of reliability and quality.
I also believe that reports about it's perceived diminishing quality, while they may have a certain degree of truth to them (as evidenced by my previous points) ... the personal accounts are somewhat disporportunate to real-world statistics.
This quote from another on-line forum is a perfect example of the point I attempted to make earlier.
I am sick of reading people review this car (Tercel) as if it has the standards of an Acura Legend or Lexus ES300. This car is made specifically for someone who needs efficient transportation.
Though this quote is about the Tercel, it applies equally to most Toyota models (with some exceptions like the Avalon which is a near-luxury car).
The survey you sent to Toyota Motor Corporation on your service experience is returned to the dealer with the intention that the dealer will treat their customers better in the future. So of course, "it's on file," and so is everyone else's, whether it's positive or negative. It's not supposed to be used to beat you over the head or treat you as if you have a criminal record. Sounds like a dealer to stay away from.
Clearly, unless you've got a bad run of batteries, there's something causing the batteries to go dead so quickly. Similar to what your neighbor said, on my former 1990 Mercury Sable, there was a short circuit inside the alternator that was killing the battery overnight. I had to leave the negative cable disconnected until the cause was found, so I could start the car in the morning.
The TSB covering the sulpher odor is:
EG011R-04 MAY 05 Exhaust System - Objectionable Sulfur Dioxide Odors
Information can be located at:
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html
It never stalled at cold start or one hour after engine shutoff.
Has anyone had this same problem and do you know of a corrective action to this problem?
I also see my creaking steering wheel problem listed too.
http://tom-morrow-land.com/tests/cartemp/index.htm
Executive Summary:
For those who just want to know the results of the test, I'll tell you. The glass temperature (which I assume to be a proxy for interior temperature) varied only 5 to 6 degrees between the black and white cars on average. So I conclude that the interior temperature only varied somewhere in the neighborhood of 5 to 6 degrees. The paint temperature, however, varied by about 55 degrees, which is ten times as much. So it is indeed true that black paint is much hotter than white paint, but the interior of the black car isn't that much warmer than the white car.
Replies to this message:
I'd retry the experiment but open the car and measure the surface temp of the front seats in both black and tan. I'll guess you'll see a substantial difference. Opening the car will have little effect on the surface temp if you measure quickly.
BTW how about the 2007 Camry (mini Avalon) pictures. If they have dual climate, a heated steering wheel and good tunes it looks like a winner.
I've got a black 2005 SE-V6, my first black car. It's so gorgeous when clean but of so hard to keep clean. One little sprinkle and every water spot is visible, unlike a light color. Now with winter setting in, every trip down a wet road makes the sides white. The swirls aren't really noticeable from more than a couple feet away so I wouldn't worry about that.
The other thing is that I was just at the local Toyota dealer last weekend and I was looking at the black Avalon that they have indoors--of course I could see the swirls, but I could also see "dust" or something settling on it as well. I haven't noticed this "problem" with lighter colored cars.
I could usually do it 2-3 times before it needed washing or the dust wouldn't come off. It's like a feather duster, very soft. The guys that show their cars use them.
I am really sick of pushing on the gas pedal and hearing the engine race, and then not going that much faster.
Thanks for any input.
I personally am quite happy with the 4-cylinder, both for power and fuel economy.
a lot of older people drive camry. I am 25. i dont care what people will say. So far, I am happy with LE V6.
If it's your opinion, then you can't guarantee it won't be a problem, can you? :P
I rented 4 cyl Camrys a couple of times. They were fine for the most part but I did miss that V6 kick when passing.
It's really a subjective decision. What works for you may not for him and vice versa. All I will say is I've never heard anyone complain that they had too much power.
But I have heard people complain that they were using too much gas.
Touche!
It's such an individual decision, I don't know why we keep having these discussions. Ultimately the only opinion that matters is your own.
"I've never heard anyone complain that they had too much power" I also agree, we are living in power hungry, bigger is better environment.
"It's really a subjective decision." Sort of confirms that the 4cyl should satisfy most drivers needs (that and the fact that more than 70% chose the 4cyl when purchasing the Camry). Can't dispute the fact that the 6cyl is more powerful than the 4cyl. However, I don't believe the 4cyl Camry is less safe than the 6cyl (at least I haven't seen any related stats).
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT! I have an '89 Toyota pickup with the R-22 SOHC 4-cyl engine parked out in front of the house. The engine has over 279,000 miles on it. It uses no oil between oil changes (3,000 miles), doesn't smoke, starts right up - cold or hot, and returns 28 mpg highway. Engine longevity depends on faithful routine care with good quality motor oil and filters, not on the number of cylinders involved. But, I am on my fourth battery and second clutch - damned Toyota clutches!
I think you have a lemon law case. Toyota needs to buy that one back
I don't think anyone suggested there was a safety issue involved. It's pretty much a mileage vs power & cost tradeoff. If I drove 20k miles/year, I might opt for the 4 to save the $2400 incremental cost and $25/month (estimated) on gas. But since I only drive about 10k annually and the $2400 wasn't an issue, I opted for the V6, knowing I would sacrifice gas mileage but get a nice kick in the pants when I floored it. And that's my final answer.
~alpha