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http://www.hotrod.com/clubs_rides/viewride_new.jsp?type=2&id=45163&rid=26884
Is that black car to the right an LS?
Also, lots of info on the '03 Merc Marauder
http://www.hotrod.com"
The shocks didn't fit. The stroke of the piston rod was longer than stock. The stock rod holds the spring under compression which allows the whole assembly to be installed in the vehicle without spring compressors.
The Moriss Dampers shocks had an extra six inches of travel, which meant there was no way to install them without spring compressors. The really bad part is that if you put spring compressors on then there's no room to manuever the whole assembly into place. So you're left with a bundle that's too big to do anything with. And you can't compress the shock/spring assembly enough to bully it into fitting.
So, until Bilstein, Koni or a more mainstream company makes shocks for the LS, stick to the stock replacements. I've ordered the European shocks (Sport model) as a replacement for my non-stock shocks.
Not that anyone who was at Mania 2 is surprised by this finding. I was at least expecting them to fit and then find out that the valving sucked. Geez, couldn't even get them to fit and I had the help of a qualified mechanic.
Just goes to show you that sometimes stock is better. I think I learned my lesson, at least on the shocks. Oh well, I guess that's what the project car is for. Find out what works and what doesn't before the members do.
Now if I can just get my money back from Moriss Dampers.
Brian (soaking his cares away with Miss Margarita)
Now a question for those of you with V6 maunals...is there anything special I should be doing to break in the car?
Thanks,
Tom
Brian, what does Debbie think of Miss Margarita?
Congrats on your car! Glad we were able to help get your deal through!
Go easy the first 1000 miles. The engine will be very tight and not want to rev freely. After the first 1000 miles go ahead and spring for an oil change. That will get rid of any bits of metal that are in suspension from the break-in process.
Try to keep it under 65mph for the first couple of hundred miles, varying the speed. A couple of 0-50 blasts with coasting down after each one will help to seat the piston rings. After the first couple hundred miles start driving it at the speed that you want it to become accustomed to, still varying the speed. After time you'll notice the engine will start revving more freely.
Mike;
Debbie isn't too thrilled with me since I know have to find a hydraulic press to put the old spring back on the old shock so I don't have to use the Momma-mobile next week.
I don't think the third generation window regulators will be available till December sometime.
For those who may be interested in retrofitting your 2000-2001 V6 and V8 Airbox's with the new 2002 less restricted one - the base part, the only part that is different, is not available by itself and you would have to replace the entire Airbox (part# 2W4Z 9600-AA) dealer price $180.52. If you are a LLSOC member check out my post in the Members News Forum for additional info. There are also pictures I took of the 2002 Airbox in the Members Lounge.
But back to the Manual. The early Getrags had Dexron and then 10-30 motor oil for lubricant. My suggestion for better shifting after a few break-in miles is Redline Synthetic ATF. I think it is called "D" Fluid. I changed mine to Redline MTL but it was too thick. I then went to 50-50 MTL and Redline ATF. But I live in San Diego. If you are back East, The ATF, especially in winter, would be better than the stock fluid. The Getrag only takes 1.1 quarts. You will be amazed how small it is. There is a fill plug at the top and a drain plug at the bottom, and no gaskets are required. The rear end has syn fluid already so don't worry about it. The engine likes synthetic oil but I would wait until 7500 miles or so to put in Amsoil or Mobil 1. Costco has Mobil 1 10-30 here for $21.99 a case of 6. Such a buy.
So just put on some patient miles and try to avoid taking on those lowered Civics and Integras with the blue headlight bulbs and sewer pipe exhausts. Let us know your progress. Oh yes, those door speakers are cheap Philco whizzers and the Polk DX-7's are the ticket there. Also, order a K&N air filter when you have a chance.
http://media.ford.com/products/presskit_display.cfm?vehicle_id=476&press_subsection_id=423&make_id=1049
V6M - About 3 weeks ago (on a nice cool afternoon), some of my co-workers were razzing me in the parking lot about having an "old man's car" (Lincoln). Soooo, I brought up 4K RPM's and dropped the hammer. This resulted in the wheelwell filling up with smoke, and about a 50-60 foot strip of rubber on the asphalt. Maybe not as impressive as a few other vehicles, but good enough for me!
BTW - ~9300 mi., K&N filter, Borla exhaust, & the above mentioned witnesses.
Do you really need a hydrolic compressor?
Did anyone notice that the none of the gear ratios are 1:1?
This is a lot of technology for the money. Civic and Integra sales may be hurt by this new bad boy racer.
From my point of view wouldn't it be better just to put a couple of extra holes in your existing airbox and save the money? If you guys want the airbox it would probably be cheaper overall to order direct from Torrie at www.fordpartsnetwork.com. The shipping charges would be less since he ships more and gets a break on shipping expenses.
After another futile attempt (read renting spring compressors) at trying to put the spring back into proper positioning so I could put the dang shock cap back on to hold the whole thing together
I'm gonna cry uncle and take the assembly into Rancho FLM tomorrow and beg Brian Glasstetter to put Humpty-Dumpty back together again without laughing too hard.
I've taken springs off in the past, but boy these are some pretty stiff coil springs. When I get the new Sport shocks I'll probably have Rancho mount them for me.
I have the brochure and have read the info on the Lincoln site. All a bit confusing regarding the equipment.
What is truly interesting is what VVT does for the torque curve - pushing the "flat" portion down to 2000 RPM. That would be nice for the LS-V6. Perhaps that is coming for the 2003 model year....
Simulation results for the SVT Focus:
0-30 = 3.2
0-40 = 4.1
0-50 = 6.2
0-60 = 7.9
0-70 = 10.3
0-80 = 12.8
0-90 = 15.7
0-100 = 20.1
0-110 = 25.2
0-120 = 34.5
0-130 = 53.72
1/4mile = 16.1 @ 91MPH
70mph in 6th @ 2975rpm
Nothing I heard would make me believe they are seriously considering discontinuing the stick option.IMHO if Lincoln aggressively advertised the performance characteristics of the LS, sales of all models would increase dramatically as would that 2-2.5% manual mix.
I believe I have to just drive the car for a while and let the computer fully recalibrate for peak operation. It seems to run just fine, but the peak performance is down a bit. Any thoughts from you guys?
http://autoweek.com/cat_print.mv?content_code=07036792
When you disconnected the battery, I hope you waited about a half-hour or longer before you hooked it back up. It sometimes takes that long for the computer to reset. Once it does it takes anywhere from a 50 to 100 miles for the computer to relearn your driving habits, which is why it isn't responding like it used to.
Do you think it is necessary to disconnect the battery after making some air box mods and putting a K&N in too?
When I do put the MAF sensor in for the test, I guess the first thing should be to disconnect the battery and wait a good half hour while changing it out before running it on the DYNO. Does that
sound right?
Yes, disconnect the battery then change out the MAF before running it on the dyno.
Trying to find "better" shocks, exhaust systems, and God knows what else are worthy endeavours, and are interesting to observe. Disconnecting one of the inputs to the computer while the car is running apparently helped train yet another shade tree mechanic. I've been there (in an earlier, gentler time), but given the pollution controls and the resulting electronic controls, I've pretty much given up on modifications.
Apparently several of you are willing to still take up the cudgel.
Bless you.
I'm staying tuned.
Wonder what all these folks are gonna do in a couple of years when you can get one at a discount?
most dealers carried a few the first year but refuse to now because they sat on the lot for a long time.
Also, becareful of exaggerated claims by Borla on significant horsepower gains on their bolt on cat back systems.
As a previous SHO owner, many of my fellow SHO friends were charged close to $800 for this system(Borla claimed a 25 hp gain on their dyno). But in reality hp gains were a modest 4-6 hp. as confirmed by a independent dyno shop.
I have to bite my lip on the above but I know it works.
The larger airflow sensor with the original ducting is like tinkling through a straw. The smallest diameter in the system (the snorkel) becomes the weakest link and biggest obstruction.
Take a look at the induction on the 49 show car for another idea.
I've made additional improvements to the box and have that MAF waiting for action. Too bad I goofed last Monday. Getting my hands on a nice cat-back system is proving to be tough, but I think I have a good lead with Corsa. Nobody seems to address the Aurora for much aftermarket stuff and I can understand why.
My email address is: brian.gowing@llsoc.com