Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Is it that the well-optioned cars go fast and these are all that are left or do dealers just order every car this way? I'm interested in what others have seen.
Another person you need to be introduced to is the service manager, Bill Fliehman -- he too has been with the dealership for a long time. Buying from these guys is a pleasure and getting service from this dealership is also a refreshing experience. All of our over two dozen Audis have come from this dealership -- starting in late 1977 when I bought my first Audi 5000!
513-851-5900 is the number.
Yeah it is a sweet deal. The only downside is its 10k mi/yr. But each 1k you go over only costs $200 which isn't too bad.
The car was loaded up the yinyang (46k + change MSRP):
- Preffered Luxury
- Sport Package
- Premium Package
- Cold Weather Package
- Premium Sound
I live in the West Chaster/airfield area and am interested in a 1999/2000 A6 quattro or 2.7T. Since you probably know other Audi owners that take immaculate care of their cars... do you know of anyone wanting to sell in the next 6 months?
I have visited North land and agree they are great, however their preowned selection is always limited.
Thank you in advance !
Jeff T.
Emerald Green/Melange/17"wheels,bose -- everything that was avail on day one. Had three sets of front rotors (including the factory originals) but they were Audi Advantage -- I have the same rotor problem with my 2001 -- there is an AudiFix for this, free, of course. The car had never been smoked in and as I recall was very very clean. This is the only one I know of, my friends with A6's and A4's all plan to keep the cars to term and then buy either S4's or S6's (if they are available at the time).
Additionally, driving the two back to back (both with Automatics) the 4.2 feels stiffer, more solid. Equip both with a sport package (suspension, tires/wheels and sport seats) and the 4.2 "feels" like it hunkers down around curves moreso than the 2.7T. Perhaps it is the overboosted power steering, but the 4.2 feels lighter, nimble in fact, in spite of its simultaneous feeling of greater mass (i.e., solid-feeling, cut from a single block of steel). But that low speed torque of the 2.7T -- what a rush (but the 4.2 is, according to published specs, "only" .1 second slower to 100kph).
The 4.2 has more of that hard to compartmentalize characteristic sometimes called "Q."
I do not necessarily believe however that it is worth the $6,000 - $7,000 more (objectively) that it can be optioned up to compared to a fully loaded 2.7T. And, no manual transmission is available -- which is the ONLY way to buy a 2.7T (IMO). The 4.2 is worth more, however, subjectively.
The 4.2 vs 2.7T debate is similar to those who are audio and video-files and debate certain esoteric equipment's merit -- in that for an extra 10% "improvement" it sometimes costs significantly more.
No matter what you think my bias is, I do think for those hunting for maximum value, the 2.7T is the one to get. But, again driving them (back to back and identically equipped) you will not mistake one for the other.
You can't lose with either one.
But as timcar says -- you must drive them (both with or both without the sport package) back to back to determine your subjective response (a.k.a., your preference).
Again, you just can't go wrong with either one of these!
s
This is great info, for those who might buy the car thinking of keeping it 36 months and then taking the "hit" -- Audi financial (leasing) seems more willing to take the hit than most -- and the deal I got on my 2001 A6, no money down, over $3,500 off MSRP, and Audi made the first payment on a 30 month lease. Sweet! I get the car, no money out of pocket for 30 days and I only make 29 payments -- and I will probably order my new Audi at month 22, 23 or 24 and pick up my new one in month 26 or 27 and repeat the process.
Perhaps another reason for the "hit" is that Audi has done very little marketing to differentiate the various models one from the other.
http://www.quattroclubusa.org/news/2001/newa6/
Name's Jerry, now doing a boring survey on car brands. Just a few questions, what do you guys think of the above 5 brands? What would u associate with each of them? Do they mean something to you? For example, some people regard Buick as for elder citizens. I don't know. I just want to know what u folks think.
Thanks.
The new A6 4.2 front brake rotors still purr -- but only at high speeds (above 70MPH) if the brakes have not been touched for perhaps 30 - 45 minutes. Color me, not too pleased -- but as this was an "experiment" that so far has not cost any $ and very little of my personal time -- I am willing to wait.
Car now has about 9500 miles on the odometer -- several trips between Cincinnati and Columbus Ohio and some in town driving -- a couple of tanks of Shell 93 Gas and the Avg milage is 25 -- and the AC has been on and the speed has been as high as 90+ on the long stretch between Cincinnati and Columbus.
Everything -- execpt the above mentioned brakes -- mechanical and electrical about this car is fantastic. I read the article about the new 2002's which claimed they would be 40% quieter and have siginificantly reduced unsprung weight on the front end. I will wait until the 2003's tho, just in case AoA decides to bring an S6 over or the new S4 4 door coupe with a V8!
Be still my heart, er, foot.
That's a full report.
BTW, the brakes on my 2.7T do EXACTLY the same thing. I haven't had them replaced. Wonder if this is a design characteristic rather than true warped rotors. I.e., if they're warped, they should do it ALL the time under specific conditions.
It seems like they start at 10,000 for special they have going on now. How much more would it be for 12,000 and 15,000. Thanks
I then leased a 2000 A6 4.2 -- new rotors were required at 1,000 miles -- they chattered and purred and vibrated from mile 1. New front rotors again about 12,000 miles later -- for a total of three sets (including the ones that came on the car). Traded the 2000 A6 in on a 2001 A6 4.2 (after 17th months and 23,000 miles on the 2000), at 8,000 miles wrote a letter to Audi dealer, not AoA, asking for suggestions for an aftermarket brake (cross drilled and/or slotted -- from Stop Tech or someone who is a brake specialty company); dealer service manager suggested that I allow him to order the new A6 brake rotors which are a NEW part number and hopefully a newer, better brake rotor. I said OK and he did and I now have new rotors and although they do not shudder like the ones that WERE ON the car from day one, they now make a slight purring sound and feeling. My wife's TT doesn't do this, the two A4's she had prior didn't do this, my A8 didn't do this, my 1995 S6 didn't do this -- my friend's BMW doesn't do this, and my employees Dodge Intrepid doesn't do this. My $56,000 Audi does this, tho!
I am, as you can tell, confused, disappointed and a bit aggravated that the top of the range A6 (in the US at least) doesn't have bullet proof brakes. Autoweek's car buying issue (in stores now) notes this "rotor warping" as a common problem with the big A6 brakes (2.7T and 4.2).
I have written Audi of America on this issue and if their past history is any indication of their future actions, they will respond within 30 days or so.
My dealer service manager told me that if I buy a new set of non Audi rotors he will be able to get me paid on the cost of the Audi rotors which would offset the cost by several hundred dollars. This makes me happy with the dealer, but not happy with Audi AG -- drive a $56,000 Mercedes, the brakes are phenominal! Ditto BMW. The Audi brakes on test drive also feel great -- but they have NO durability. Free or no, this is not what we've come to expect of Audi.
I am certain they will get this situation squared away -- but they need to be made aware of the problem, and I urge you to do so politely and in a very clear, articulate manner. I have found Audi uncommonly willing to help its customers.
That is one reason, that in spite of the problem I have described, I still say the car and the company are incredible and I am a loyal customer.
Good luck with your stoppers!!
I also have a '98.5 A4 2.8, and just had the front pads replaced at 35,000 miles - the dealer said the rotors still were OK.
Test drive comments are always welcome, so thanks.
The only objective comment I can make is the defroster works fine and the A/C works fine.
Subjective:
No problem with center console.
The brakes stop the car just fine.
Sun roof dial okay my me....
Good luck on your test drives.
All four rotors were replaced due to warping, right front outer CV boot failed and entire half shaft was replaced, window lock-out switch replaced, center console lid replaced due to finish coming off release handle, 45k mile service completed.
My A8 was in the shop having 30k service done and had front rotors replaced due to vibration. 1000 miles later, vibration is back. Called dealer and they are going to see what can be done to upgrade rotors. I'm trying to see if they can put some cross drilled rotors on and cover the basic cost and I'll pay the upgrade cost. I was very careful not to use the brakes too hard, but I think the combination of high heat here and heavy rains, it is a problem that will be difficult to solve unless they have done some radical changes to the rotor composition.
I would probably try the same tactics if my A6 was doing the same thing.
There are so many complaints about A6 brakes over @ Audiworld there is a discussion thread that will, if you dig deeply enough, give you the names of aftermarket vendors, URL's and costs of rotor replacements for Audi 2.7T and 4.2 (I don't know about allroads) model year 2000 and 2001. My dealer says add the S4 to the list of current Audis with chronic rotor warp problems.
Thought you would like to know this is not a rare happening. And, as I mentioned it is documented in the Autoweek guide to 2001 cars (now on your newsstand).
If you have not had the problems with these rotors, I envy you.
Again, I am not going to stop loving my Audis -- I put this in the category of very high annoyance, with some slightly possible safety and stopping distance issues, as I can only assume that a chattering rotor doesn't stop as short as a smooth one.
The breed will improve.
My dealer actually brought a technician to the phone to verify that the 2.7T and 4.2 use the same brakes which according to him are not the same as the allroad -- the allroad's according to the technician are newer still.
FYI
If you or I find anything that contradicts or clarifies this, I will post it and hope this board's contributors will be so kind as to do the same.
Thanks.
I just did a thorough wash & was of '00 A6 2.8. I noticed a nick or two in the glass covering the headlights. Is this to be expected overtime with rocks and such hitting them? I thought they were impact resistant, bullet proof, etc.
Thanks
Joel
I have 25K on my 2.7T with no brake problems (other than the occasional squeak).
The noticeable difference between the 530i & 2.7T is handling. The BMW is 50/50 weight and corners ~15mph faster than the A6. If you're into cornering, then BMW wins. Otherwise, the A6 wins in acceleration, interior space, trunk space, ....
By-the-by, have you checked out the Lincoln LS-V8. Has the handling of the BMW, interior space of the A6, medium size trunk, poorer acceleration (relative to the 2.7T or BMW).
Again, depends on what you look for in a driving machine.
Finally the 2002 A6 will be 40% quieter inside the passeger compartment, which also has benefits relating to comfort and safety. The 2002 will have higher content and relatively speaking this increased content will be at no increase in real money for the car. Other improvements in the breed will be available in the 2002's but of course the super super deals that are available on the 2001 2.7T's will almost certainly not be available (at first), even though additional short term interest rate cuts (which will effect lease payments) are almost certain.
Now, on to the 2001 2.7T -- compared to a 2001 BMW 530i. Both of these are fine German cars, I presume anyone who has driven, owned and read the enthusiasts magazines will agree. Of course the BMW camp will argue one way and the Audi camp the other.
If there is anything about these cars and their passionate owners that cannot or at least should not be disputed (even though it is) it is the "performance" of all wheel drive (quattro) vs rear wheel drive over the ENTIRE range of driving conditions. The weight distribution point made earlier is as valid (on dry pavement) as the quattro point of superior performance, safety and confidence on "reduced traction" surfaces is. In a nut shell, if you drive where there is rain, snow, ice or other forms of reduced coefficient of friction, the Audi will perform significantly better than the BMW during those reduced traction circumstances.
The Audi quattro system coupled with ABS and ESP on a 2.7T with sport suspension and the 17" wheel option, compared to the BMW similarly equipped (but without quattro of course), should show similar handling performance "below the limit" of each car -- which is where virtually all of us drive in the US. We have no autobahns that I am aware of, i.e.
The 2.7T is quicker than the 530i -- but, the 2.7T's "limits" (in the handling department) are, under ideal conditions, lower than the 530i's (the salom speed of the 530i on dry pavement will be higher than the Audi's that is).
The Audi's performance on real roads, driven normally (which I would assume would rarely be over a speed of 100mph even on "freeways" -- and, even if we normally drove around 100mph, I would find it hard to imagine it would be on roads that have serious curves, turns and bends) will be little different from the BMW's (except that the Audi will accelerate faster, have more room and comfort and have a little less road noise, etc.)
The point is this: neither car will be put to its limits unless you live somewhere that is not very populated, or unless the purchase of the car is for road racing (hopefully closed track). If that were the sole purpose, the handling prowess of the BMW 530i would have merit as would the increased acceleration of the Audi 2.7T over the BMW (have merit).
On the issue of the brakes, I do believe the BMW brakes will be more durable (based on my experience and the writings of the pros), yet the problems are relatively minor (IMO), they are aggravating -- and according to this board, not even universal. Moreover, Audi will "make it right" if your new 2.7T is so afflicted.
Buy the BMW because of your bias, preference, ego or even pocket book -- you will have by any measure a great German road car to enjoy, feel safe in and be proud of. The Audi too has much to recommend it -- as my wife says "it goes like a snake in a rat hole" when the roads are anything less than perfect and perfectly dry. In my opinion, with my bias, the BMW is a superior fair weather friend. You know though, I need a "friend" least in fair weather and I need a "friend" most when the weather is foul.
The other merits of the Audi are more subtle and come to you over a 6 - 12 month period of "appreciation." In the interest of fairness, I would suspect the same can be said of the BMW.
Well, that's what I think anyway -- good luck Randy.
Ken
You make a good point of quattro... it's so transparent that I forget about it - except in bad weather and then "oh yea, no problem, I have quattro".
One point that I'll emphasize is what is looked for when driving. Are you strictly going from point A to B and that's all that matters? With these class cars probably not. With that being the case what is the most important attribute? No one can answer that for another person, so let's not try.
I drove a Lincoln LS for 6700 miles. It handles - corners on dry pavement - like a BMW. When traffic permitted, I would take highway exit ramps at "the limit." What FUN! But exiting the curve, I found no acceleration which was a REAL letdown (I desired a manual so I was limited to a V6 LS).
Okay, what's my point. Point - I would take a favorite highway S-curve exit (on weekends) "at the limit." The limit being 75mph (actually the LS could probably do 80 but one would risk rubbing the guard rail). When I picked up the 2.7T, I took my favorite exit at 65mph (not a 50/50 weight so I knew better than to try faster). At 65mph (dry, clean pavement) the ABS kicked in an the A6 lost control. I used the clutch for braking and pumped the brake peddle to keep from meeting the guard rail - very nerve racking.
The 530i/LS will take that curve at 75mph, the A6 at 60mph. If you like corner (in fair weather), the BMW. Otherwise, the A6-2.7T is the winner.
But I have a question -- I have tried similar "stunts" and the ESP came on, applied the brake to the counter offending wheel and I took the corner somewhat faster than the weight distrubtion would -- without ESP -- permit. You mentioned that you pumped the brakes -- this is counter to the driving school techniques I have learned (both with ESP and without) on cars equipped with ABS. A split second before you enter the curve apply the brakes ("punch") briefly and wait for the "load to shift" which should increase the turning power of the tires somewhat, continue into the curve, as understeer kicks in the ESP module will also kick in and brake one wheel for you which will cause the car to "turn in" more (using the laws of physics). Conversely you could be dangerous and cause oversteer by pulling up on the hand brake which will induce oversteer and make the rear wheels and the attitude of the car mimic a "partial doughnut." BTW I personally would not do the latter except on a closed course or deserted parking lot.
And, BTW, I drove an A6 4.2 and a 540i back to back (both automatics). In this case the 540i seemed a lot quicker than the Audi (but it was way more money) and it did have the huge tires (as does an A6 4.2 w/sport package) and frankly the difference in cornering, while in the BMW's favor, was insufficient to sway (no pun intended) my decision -- of course the factors I considered were "you want how much per month for a 540i?" the content of the A6 vs the BMW and the fact that on the day I took the test drive I also drove on some back roads that had not been completely cleared of snow (which here in Cincinnati is most of the secondary roads after a snow fall) -- the BMW was, even with the DSC (aka ESP) on -- wanting to fish tail and lose traction when launching from rest. The Audi walked away from it.
My friend bought a 530i about a year ago -- paid something like $49,900 (after discount) for it -- compare this to an A6 4.2 with sport package and the Audi will sell for $51,150 (before discount) -- the difference between the brands will be even more striking if you test a 530 and an Audi A6 4.2 back to back.
Again there's that super duper deal on the 2001 2.7T's -- that neither the 530 or the 4.2 can offer.
I agree, BMW pricing is hard to swallow. Frankly, the 2.7T is pretty much my limit.
The 2.7T (sport suspension, sp9000 tires) was taking my "favorite exit" just fine right up to the point where ABS kicked in. If ABS was disabled, the 2.7T would have made it through the S-curve without a hitch. When I started slowly applying brakes, the turning "bite" was just fine. As soon as ABS kicked in, the tire "bite" faded and consequently, the guard rail was going to be met. I had no choice but to back off the brakes, dubbed-clutch, dump speed through the tranny, and try applying brakes again. Otherwise, handling was just fine (though somewhat nose heavy) right up to the point when ABS occurred. As I mentioned before, somewhat nerve racking....
Thanks!!!
I ordered a 2002 S4 (they are calling the last of the 2001's, 2002's, they are not the new body style, and production ends in July) and it was a difficult decision...more room...more sport...more features...more exclusive...
good luck either way.
I then talked to the general sales manager and before I could even sit down he told me it would "cost a lot". He asked me how early I would turn it in (1 year) and what my monthly payments were. Then (to my amazement) he multiplied my monthly payment by 12 months to give me what I would have to pay to turn my car in early.
I almost laughed, if I were to pay the whole amount off I think I would just keep the car for the duration. I then told him I thought the calculation for depreciation would be taken 1 year earlier and that is what the value of the car would be (after they check it over). He then basically told me that lease estimates are not an exact science and they wouldn't be able to get that kind of calculation because it is very subjective.
This was a shock to me because when I purchased the car the salesman told me about the amazing lease where I could turn it in early or sell it off, basically do anything I wanted. I went with this type of lease because you never know when something else may come along (as it did).
I tried to sell my car privately (competitively priced) but there isn't a large A6 market where I live.
Is this scenario correct? Seems unbelievable.
Good luck - let us know how it works out.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Thanks
Eric
1. sat in the back...had to grab my thigh to extract my leg out on the LS.
2. LS has auto-on lights. Darn it, Audi! They got us on that one.
3. Audi drives way the heck better at the limit. Scared the $&*# out of the sales guy when I took a right turn at 50 mph and tried to force the car back into the right lane. Those with Quattro need to be careful when driving a less-capable car.
4. No Nav or factory built-in phone
5. Handling is okay, but the absence of Quattro is noticeable.
6. Leather and wood quality is far deficient.
7. Alpine stereo gives the Bose a run for its money.
8. Tiny little trunk, compact spare on the LS.
9. No lush, padded soft-open pockets on the doors.
10. Only one dome light in the rear...no reading lights.
11. LS has better cupholders and 2 up-front, instead of 1 with the Nav on 4.2.
12. Isn't anywhere near as quick as the 4.2.
Verdict: For $40K fully-loaded and heavily discounted financing, versus $55K for a fully-loaded 4.2, the LS V-8 is an INCREDIBLE buy. I wouldn't buy it myself, but the $15K buys only incremental value. The real difference: Quattro, somewhat more refined engine, more comfort for rear seat passengers, more high-end options (like 4-way lumbar and passenger memory). For many people, that's not worth $15K.
#1. If you bail out early -- and the value of the car on trade or at the retail level is less than the "at the then time" residual -- you will pay the difference.
#1a. If the value of the car is greater than or equal to the payoff, you keep the difference -- this has happened to me twice in 24 Audis.
There is no #2, that I can think of.
A "special lease" may require months times monthly payments no matter what -- I knew of one of these on a Chrysler Lebaron Convertable -- which was $199 month for 24 months, 10,000 miles a year and NO MATTER WHEN you got rid of the car, you were obligated (and the contract said so) to pay 24 x $199 -- or better said, the total you had to pay whether in month 2 or month 24 had to add up to 24 x $199 -- so even if you only kept the car 3 months, you owed them 21 more payments.
I have only seen this one time.
I have been using ALMOST exclusively Audi or VW Credit for my Audi leases -- for years and years. And, while I virtually always get out early from my leases (usually 3 - 6 months early), I have never had to pay such as you have been told -- and sometimes the lease has just been "cancelled" -- but then again, I was always trading in and trading up -- low milage highly desirable cars.
Ask again, ask someone perhaps who has more experience -- and see if you can sell the car or have someone take over the lease or go to www.swapalease.com for more information.
Luck.
I just inquired through Audi/VW financial and found that they are not a retail lender, and will work only through dealers. The buy-outs are fixed and non-negotiable. I was trying to set up a deal for my step-father to buy my A6 at lease end. For AFS to sell the car to him, I had to provide a copy of my birth certificate and a copy of his marriage license to show the relationship. In the end he passed on the car and a co-worker bought it through the dealer (for Audi Advantage purposes). Dealer sold the car to him for my buy-out plus $500 for Certification.
The dealer was always ready to help me out of my lease, assuming I was leasing again, but when I found my A8 and wanted to buy it, they couldn't help me out of the A6 lease due to too much time remaining(10 months early in a 36month lease) and I ended up keeping the car for the duration for my family to use when in town.
I t was the same scenario, pay all the payments and turn the car in or pay all the payments and buy it for our contracted buy-out. Either way I was going to have to make all the payments.
Look at your contract, check your fine print, ask a professional, if all else fails, find the owner of the dealer, and with the salesman who sold you the car, explain what he said to you and see what happens. Good luck.
I have no doubt about the "gotcha's" that have been disclosed in these posts. I have had exactly the same situation -- when I borrowed the money to buy a car -- not lease a car. I got upside down on a 60 month loan on a car (a Chrylser product of some sort) -- when the car pooped out before the payments, I found myself in a very painful $ituation.
So I am a "fan" of leasing -- but I have not been "burned" -- ever.
Best advice I could glean from all these posts -- read the contract. GM used to buy down the payments by inflating the residual, for example -- net effect, it was impossible ever to get out early as the value of the car was always way less than the payout. The payout only went away at the termination of the lease -- perhaps some of the same circumstances are in the contracts of AFS or the bank's.