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2008 Chevy Uplander Heater Problem in idle - DIY FIX

duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
edited January 27 in Chevrolet

2008 Chevy Uplander with 57,000 miles. This winter, the HEATER began pumping out cold air when stopped at traffic lights or idling to warm it up in the driveway. Unless I had 1200 RPMs, I was not getting any heat.

After doing some on-line research, with the engine OFF, I added DEX-COOL 50/50 with water to the reserve tank. The level had been low by about 16 ounces. It made no noticeable difference at first. I decided the lines were probably clogged as well. I took the van for a spin with heater running at max heat, full fan speed and gunned the engine it a few times forcing it to downshift and rev to about 4000 RPMs. Parked it and noticed about a 5% improvement.

Two hours later, took it for another run, heater on, gunning it to 4K several times in 10 minutes. Parked it and let it run in idle. The air coming out was warm - not quite as hot when rolling but at least it wasn't blowing cold anymore.

Third run, repeated procedure and now all seems well. Air blowing from heater is nice and warm - even at low speeds or when idling.

Comments

  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,185

    @duraflex said: 2008 Chevy Uplander with 57,000 miles.

    I added DEX-COOL 50/50 with water to the reserve tank.

    I think bleeding the air out of system would help also

  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358

    Ray - I have no clue how to get the air out of the system but if I did it would probably complete the fix taking it from warm air at slow speeds and idle to heat as hot as it blows at normal road speed.

  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,185

    @duraflex said: Ray - I have no clue how to get the air out of the system but if I did it would probably complete the fix taking it from warm air at slow speeds and idle to heat as hot as it blows at normal road speed.

    While I know about bleeding the air in the system , I haven't had to actually do it myself. I believe there may be 2 bleed screws on yours, perhaps one near thermostat and one somewhere higher up on engine. I believe process would be to ensure coolant level is correct in both overflow tank and radiator (when cold) , start engine with vehicle level an heater on, open the bleed valves and as engine warms up enough and starts circulating coolant the air will be forced out. Close valves when ONLY coolant (no air) is coming out.

    Hopefully if this is not correct, someone will more real practice will chime in.

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496

    If you had to add that much coolant, then it's probably leaking. GM's 3900 V6 is notorious for crossover pipe and / or head gasket leaks. You likely have one or the other or both. If you still have powertrain coverage, you can get it fixed at no cost. Good luck.

  • bren1983bren1983 Posts: 1
    edited March 4
    I have a 2008 Chevy uplander bought it used 4 months ago, the day after my 30 day warranty was up the problems started. My abs and traction control lights never go off, my lights dim I lose power and power steering. The van over heats and my battery light comes on and off all the time saying charging system failure. My suspension is gone in the rear I need wheel bearings this van is awful I will never purchase another or recommend it. The heater also is only warm while the van is moving and my service engine lights comes off and on. I had 6 lights on my dash yesterday. Total piece of crap!!!
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