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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying

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Comments

  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Okay. The Koni Yellows cost about $520 shipped from diablo autosports, right? Is there any place cheaper? Again, I want to get this clear. The koni's have a height adjustable perch. My question is, does there exist a perch that is "higher" than the stock setting?

    Also, the apexi ws coilover system, is it good quality? What would be better in the long run, the koni/gc combo or the apexi's? Thanks.
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    $520 shipped for Koni yellows is what I paid for mine about one year ago, and I got mine from shox.com. I say go for it, because that's the lowest I've seen them available for about the last two years. Harry is the only one I know who picked them up for less $$ -- actually, he got an incredible deal (something like $400 for the set) but I've never seen anything close to that and I've checked every imaginable place. You won't regret getting these shocks -- they are fantastic! I don't know very much about the Apexi WS coilovers, but Apexi is supposedly a reputable name, especially in Japan. My concern would be their price and whether or not they come with dampers/shocks, too. Once you get into the full coilover systems, the prices go up exponentially -- usually at least $1,000 and up for the set. Also, I don't think you'd be able to order custom spring rates with the Apexi WS system, which is supposed to be a mild improvement over the stock setup of the car. With the GC coilovers, you'd be able whatever spring rates you want. And a lot of solo II and road racing national championships have been won with GCs. Obviously, my bias is towards the GCs, because that's what I hope to get some time this summer.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    $520 shipped is the cheapest going rate right now. When I got mine (2yrs ago) they were $470 + shipping which came out to $510 I think. But this was because I had a 33% off coupon from some on-line parts store (don't even remember the name!) that otherwise was pretty expensive.

    Yes, the Konis are height adjustable to even higher than your stock height but I would not recommend going higher at all! Handling will be comprimised considerably if you go higher. Use the stock perch that is intended for the stock height as indicated in the instructions.
    You can only do this once while you 're installing the shocks. Once they 're on the car you cannot adjust the height with the Konis unless you take them off again! For the love of god, don't go to the higher perch! Why would you want to anyway (actually I don't want to know)? You can raise or lower the car with the GCs and you have a top shelf shock that most racers use. Now go buss some tables like I did when I was 17 and buy the darn things!! :-) That's how I paid for my first car, a '71 Nova 350SS. I miss that car..
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Nova 350SS, eh? That beats my first car -- a '73 Mazda RX-3, a low 17 sec 1/4 mile car :D. Actually, I was amazed to see that an RX-3 won the 2001 Solo II nationals in CSP. I hadn't even seen a picture of one, let alone a "real" one in over 15 years. That car is made from such cheap steel it basically weighs nothing (< 2k lbs.) and with a little bit of engine work, other bolt-ons, roll cage, LSD, some sticky tires on nice wheels, the car is definitely a beast! I was 16 when I bought it and never had the resources to make it totally tricked out. I was the first car I ever autocrossed (sniff, sniff...) ;-)
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    The reason I ask if the koni's have a higher than stock perch setting is because I'm on a midly tight budget and I want to lower the car, but not to the point where I rub all of the time. I have 45 series tires on 17 inch wheels(don't ask, they came with the car), so I don't have much room to play with(about 1.5 inches). I can get enough money to get the yellows with the gc's, but I wanted to keep my options open. originally, I wanted to get prokits and see if I could use the koni's to get the prokit drop to be less. so if the prokits lower 1.3-1.5 inches all around and the konis raise the perch up .75 inches, then I won't have any problems with rubbing. But anyway, that's the reason I was asking.

    So, another question. The custom-wound gc's cost $350ish shipped, right? my question is, how much extra is it when I get the adapters to make them work with the koni's? I think it's $40 additional for all four corners, $390ish shipped. so, koni yellows + gc's w/ adapters = $920, right? Thanks alot guys.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I thought your car was stock height now which is almost 3" wheel well gap. If you only have a 1.5" gap now then your car has been lowered already by aftermarket springs. 17"s with 45 series tires does not lessen the fender gap. The reason your tires are 45's is to keep the circuimferance of the wheel/tire the same as stock. Actually 1.5" gap is pretty good. I don't think I want to go much lower than that either. I have a 1.75" gap in the front now and 2" in the back.
    Yes, you 're looking at atleast $900 for the Konis Sports and the GCs. The Apexi WS coilover kit I heard is ok but doesn't have aggressive spring rates at all. It's the bottom of the line kit.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I have some questions. When I replace my brake fluid, should I go with dot 3 or dot 4? This is for street use only. Also, is there a difference between brands? I mean, is there a difference between the generic brand and something like Motul? I'm sure this is just another "you get what you pay for" thing, but is the difference that great?

    Okay, what's the fender gap between the stock tire and the fender? I'm just wondering because I don't think the car has been lowered, but it could be. oh, what's that site that can calculate the difference between tire circumferences? It's a miata site. Anyway, I'm going to go with the koni/gc combo. Thanks alot Harry. I really appreciate it.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    asking questions. Okay. who has custom gc's? and what are your spring rates? okay, let's suppose that I get some oversteer, now, with the koni yellows, can I counteract the oversteer with a lower stiffness in back and harder in front? Thanks.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Go with either Honda brake fluid or Valvoline Synpower DOT3/4 (what I will be changing with soon). The Valvoline is readily available, cheap, and a nice step up from the OEM fluid while still being "safe." It's not a full-race fluid and won't have to be bled more often than normal. If you are just driving on the street, it doesn't matter what you use.

    I'm not sure how you have a 1.5" with just different tires and wheels but definitely put your Konis at the correct perch. You will have lots of room to play with the height with the GCs.

    Don't get the Tokicos. I have them. They are okay for driving around on the street, but will not handle huge spring rates. Actually, you might look into the Tokico kit (shocks, springs) which lowers 1.5" if you want a nice ride for the street. My friend who recently bought GCs with something like 350F/350R to go with his Illuminas and talked to Tokico and they said it would be no problem replacing them if they fail due to large spring rates. I keep having this feeling that I will outgrow my suspension before I can afford to replace it.

    In other news, I took my last exam and signed up for a track weekend at Texas World Speedway through www.thedriversedge.net. Can't wait.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I don't know about the 1.5 inches either. Could the previous owner have cut the stock springs? I'm definitely going with the konis, so no more tokikos.

    have fun at the track.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Don't forget to at least look at the full coilover options considering that you are knocking at the door with spending $900+ on Koni/GC. Look into the H&R coilover set as well as what Truechoice can fix up for you. Don't underestimate the goodness of matched springs and shocks. That's probably the best thing about the Tokico kit that I am running right now.
  • jc58jc58 Posts: 48
    I did a post a month or so ago regarding the 91 Integra that we had bought for my son. The car ran great when we bought it. However, because it had 112,000 miles on it and the timing belt had never been changed we had it replaced and the thermostat replaced. The valves were also adjusted.

    Since that time, when the car has warmed up and the idle drops to the 650-700 range, the engine shakes the car real bad. Throw it into nuetral and it stops. Took it back to the place that did the work and they claimed everything checked out.

    So we took it to another highly recommended repair place, and they had the car for a week. 5 different mechanics worked on it ( 2 had a combined 55 years of service) and the car has stumped them all. They cannot determine why it shakes so much. Engine mounts appear ok, valves are at specs, the timing belt was replaced correctly, etc. They spent several hours on the car, but because they could not figure it out, they did not charge us anything.

    Has anyone ever heard of this happening after the above mentioned repairs? Is there anything else these places could have missed that is causing it? Could it just be because of the new belt on an older engine?

    We are at a loss.....
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Yep, I remember your original post. Sorry to hear you still have been able to resolve the problem. I really don't have any earthly idea about what's going on with your son's car, but let me ask you this: when the car is cold and you start it (so it's on high idle) does it vibrate then? Have you considered adjusting the warm idle setting up (say around 800-900 rpm)? I realize this car is an automatic transmission so doing that is not ideal, but would that be a way to reduce or eliminate some of the vibration?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    looking at the h&r website, the true coilover kit costs $1500. I don't have quite that much money. Is there someplace online that has them for cheaper? About the tokiko coilover kit, what is the range of lowering on them? Also, what are the spring rates, and how much do they cost? Thanks guys.
  • swinga7swinga7 Posts: 45
    go to www.tirerack.com and click on the suspension link.

    they have H&R coilovers for $1081.

    they also have Koni coilovers for $973
  • xhawkeyexhawkeye Posts: 10
    Tokico 5-way adjustable shocks
    Eibach Springs F: 8" x 350 lbs R: 7" x 250 lbs (Stock F: 212 lbs R: 117 lbs)

    I don't race, wanted to keep as much suspension travel as possible while improving the handling and tighting up the ride. Have put 90k miles on this setup and am very happy with the results. Will do the same thing to my next car.

    Went with GC because the price was competitive with shocks and lowering springs while the ride height was adjustable. With the adjustment sleeves as high as possible got a 3/8" drop. If one wants stock ride height one would need taller springs.

    True coilovers (shock body is treaded) are expensive. The GC kit uses a threaded sleeve that slides over the shock and rests on the spring perch. Have heard stories of spring perches breaking but haven't seen that.

    A couple years ago I ran over chunk of concrete that blew out the front tire and tore up a rear trailing arm. The shock was fine but the GC threaded sleeve was smashed over the spring perch lowering the ride height another 1/2". Had to take everything apart to replace the sleeve. (Didn't need a spring compresser this time thou.) That front shock still hasn't spung a leak but later the other one did and was replaced.

    garados
    To figure out your current ride height measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender and compare that to a stock G3.
  • jc58jc58 Posts: 48
    Yes, when the car is cold the idle is smooth. It is only after it warms up and the idle drops that the car starts shaking. I had thought about trying to bump the warm idle up, but I am not sure what that involves or if I can.

    Does anyone know if this can be done since computers seems to control everything now adays, and also how to go about doing it?
  • swinga7swinga7 Posts: 45
    WASHINGTON (CNN) - The Acura Integra tops a new study listing the most stolen passenger vehicles for the model years 1999-2001, according to the Highway Loss Data Institute.

    The list correlates numbers of each 1999-2001 model passenger vehicle thought to be on the road with the frequency that it is stolen to determine which cars thieves want most often. Other studies don't use that formula -- usually concluding that the most stolen vehicles are models that most populate the highways, the institute said.

    Theft investigators believe that Integras are so popular with thieves because of their parts, according to Kim Hazelbaker, HLDI senior vice president.

    "Many of those parts, like the more powerful engine, end up on modified Honda Civics," Hazelbaker said. The Civic and the Integra share the same platform.

    According to the study, the Integra was stolen with a frequency of 21.7 times per 1,000 insured vehicles on the road in a year.


    The Integra was stolen more than eight times as often as the average car, and 2.5 times more frequently than the Jeep Wrangler -- the vehicle second on the list -- according to the institute.

    The average U.S. car is stolen 2.6 times per 1,000 insured vehicles, according to the study. The Wrangler is stolen, the institute said, 8.5 times per 1,000 insured vehicles.
  • deryckfmderyckfm Posts: 29
    As always, it is so hard nowadays to keep nice things in this world anymore. After reading the article above and other ones being shown on the 'Net today, I tried to come up with a way to make it harder for thieves to even think about taking my car. Although mine came stock with the imobiliser I also had an aftermarket alarm installed a few weeks after bringing it home. It still does not protect the car from being towed, though my lights may be flashing and the siren going off while being driven away. Being an owner of a motorcycle, I wondered if there was a lock that could get attached to a car's wheel or rotor, which I do to my bike to prevent being ridden away or towed easily. I found a product being offered on a website (www.awdirect.com) that not only has denver boots (22 lbs.) and also tire locks for about $90. What do you guys think about this product? Think it will protect our beloved Integra's more, or at least lower its attraction to thieves?
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    I always wondered if such a thing was manufactured for the public. It looks like it has some promise.
This discussion has been closed.