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What year is your TL?
Can anyone help do I need a new Air filter, PVC valve or oil filter at 20K miles?
I enver had this expensive of a car so I don't know.
I do not live close to the dealer and I take it to a Honda garage and they will not even pay any attention to the Acura maintenance book even though I always show them what is recommended at a particular mileage.
It if softer than the TL Type-S though.
It's firm enough to allow the car to be driven in a spirited way, but soft enough to still be comfortable during typical driving.
According to Acura, the new 07 TL is stiffer, but I personally find the ride in the 07 base TL to be nicer than that of the 06.
I have my TL for 7 weeks now. On the first 6 weeks the engine was still quite, but i just noticed it last week that there is a wierd noise coming out on the right side on the engine. I opened the hood and checked around. It sounds like a air leaking on the right side of the engine itself. I put my hand and i can feel the air coming out. It wasn't like that before.
Anybody had this problem? any suggestion before I call the dealer to have it check?
The car is old 7 weeks young... let them troubleshoot and fix it.
what do you do in snow? even though light 2 yrs not happy snow tires???
If you really want the whole story.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm
5 - First number is the weight at 0 degrees
W stands for winter
20 is the weight of the oil when the engine is completely warmed up.
5W30 is not "better" than 5W20 - although there seems to be a large number of people who think that the thicker oil (30 VS 20) provides better protection.
Someone will say - it gives you a thicker OIL film - and that may very well be true - but that does not mean it is providing better lubrication.
5W20 is recommended by Honda (Acura) - one of the main reasons is it gives you slightly better MPG - now think about this - if it gives you better MPG - does than mean MORE or LESS friction is being generated with a lighter weight oil?
It always makes me scratch my head a little when someone claims to know more than the engineers that designed the car.
Foglights are low and pointed slightly outward, toward the curbs, for lighting in foggy conditions.
They should have the ability to be on without the headlights, as the headlights point straight and reflect too much light.
They should also be Amber in color, thus removing Blue from the light spectrum (The potion of light reflecting off the fog)
What comes on most cars today are "Driving" lights, and not foglights at all.
The headlamps have developed a haze that appears to be inside the unit. This is decreasing the effectiveness of the night visibility. I see nothing in the Technical Service Bulletins on the subject. Has anyone dealt with this issue?
angie
www.langka.com
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/a/aa110803a.htm
http://www.automedia.com/Paint/Chip/Repair/res20020901cr/1
http://www.apexcone.com/JimPowellHomepage/TechProcedures/PaintChip/PaintChip.htm- l
If anyone has any advice for me I'd love to hear it.
The old fashion touch up and wet sanding still the best bet, just make sure you have a good buffer and know how to use it.
The other option is find a reliable pro to do it, they usually do it better.
Last time I had a stone hit on my fender and left with some white scratches, I used meguiars scratchX to get it better but still noticeable; since I am working with a guy to put on the clear bra, he helped me to buff it off and now is not noticeable at all (its free).
At the end, it depends on how deep your chip is and how much time the guy has to work on it (may requires couple visits); repaint may be required if it is too deep or crack in surrounding paint but doesn't sound like in your case, certainly I will avoid spending too much on it - who knows whether you will get another chip on the way back home.
Good Luck.
I was talking more about your everyday nicks & chips - every car gets them - I seem to notice them the 2nd or 3rd time I wash a new car.
Thanks for any help you can render.
Norm........
and i hear buzzing sound coming out from the center audio whenever i drive uneven road. Its really annoying. :mad:
anyone experience this? What should i do?
the car is only 1500 miles.. Sux.. :sick:
so i'm the one with bad luck? :mad:
I called the dealer and they said to bring it in. saying they'll fix it.
Most larger dealerships - it will make no difference - the sales and service departments are like separate as businesses.
The place where I bought my car has a very welcoming service department. It's just further away.
-040: DIY: Rattle Fix - Upper Door / Window Trim
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84527
F-041: DIY: I finally got rid of the b-pillar rattle...
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130207
F-043: DIY: Rattle Fix - Glove Compartment
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83788
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86178
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101293
I'm guessing something was either broken or not activated when the windshield was replaced by Safelite. Is there anything I can do to get the mirror to work again? Do you think the dealer would fix this under warranty or would I have to have Safelite fix the problem? Thanks.
I watched the second removal/install.
The guy used a tool which looked like a large drill, but had a flat blade instead of a drill bit, which reciprocated in and out.
He used this barbaric tool inside, along the bottom of the windshield, where it met up with the dash.
This was used to cut the adhesive along the windshields bottom edge.
My guy made a small scratch in the dash, but it's hardly noticable and wasn't worth fighting over. (We all know replacement dashes rattle like heck)
If your guy used this tool and clipped a wire, it would be a cause of the auto-lights no longer working.
The only other thing I can think of is if there enough distortion in the OEM windshield to hamper the sensors light detection.... but that would have to be one horrible windshield, so that's most likely not the cause.