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Toyota 4Runner: Ignition Systems

rcobrcob Posts: 4
edited August 15 in Toyota
Hey guys,
I have a '01 4runner,I put 31" all-terrains on,
and my mileage went down the crapper! (not that it was that good to begin with) But can anyone tell me of a ignition system thats out there? I've done some serching and found nothing. Ive already maxed out my air intake, and I'm gonna eventually get the exauhst but I'd like to focus on the ignition

Comments

  • biglatkabiglatka Posts: 78
    No doubt that you suffer in the mileage dept when you go to larger more aggressive tires, but do you realize that your odometer is in error now? Because of the larger diameter tires the odometer now indicates less miles than you actually traveled. It may not be as bad as you thought.
  • wdpwdp Posts: 9
    I have a 95 Toyota pick-up, 4x4, 3.0L V6, 5-sp. Lately, the engine has been running roughly and occasionally it will not start in the morning. For instance, this morning it started up at first but was idling very rough on the verge of stalling. It seemed to run fine parked when I revved it up to about 3000 rpm but would be rough at idle. It eventually stalled and would not start again. It would turn over and would try to start for about 1-2 seconds but would stall again. After leaving it sit for about an hour it started fine but still runs rough. The on-board diagnostic system is returning code 14 (ignition signal), code 25 (A/F ratio lean signal from O2 sensor) and code 26 (A/F ratio rich from O2 sensor). The plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button and oxygen sensor have all been replaced recently. Any suggestions?
  • bobgordonbobgordon Posts: 156
    Hope this helps you:
    First of all I'd suggest cleaning the MAS. (Mass Air Flow Sensor) This is a sensor located in the flex air intake hose.
    Now a word of CAUTION! This is a delicate sensor. It has fine wires inside, picture a screen on your house windows and 1 or 2 fine wire sensors. DO NOT clean these sensors with brake cleaner, carb cleaner or alcohol!
    You can pick up some electrical contact cleaner which is suitable for this job at a local auto parts store. Spray the wire area well and allow it to air dry before you re-assemble it. Air dry is another important thing to remember, you really don't want to touch the inside of the sensor!

    While you have the air intake hose off, take some carb cleaner and soak the throttle plate. Let it sit a bit and then open the throttle plate and wipe out the disolved residue with a clean shop rag. Using the rag, spray some carb cleaner on it and finish wiping the throttle plate and adjoining area till it's clean. Of course you do the above with the engine off! :)

    These are some very inexpensive fixes that should be done every couple years depending on the mileage you put on. They will cure a lot of drivability problems...and possibly the problems you have except for the ignition signal. You'll have to see if that code clears itself after you do the above.

    Good luck to you!
  • rcobrcob Posts: 4
    The info you provided for WDP, I think will help me out as well. THe few things I didn't think of!
    Thanks, rcob
  • biglatkabiglatka Posts: 78
    Thanks bobgordon for the excellent instructions on cleaning the MAS.
  • wdpwdp Posts: 9
    Thanks for the advice. The air flow meter on my truck (3VZ-E engine) is the vane type air flow meter so it does not have the fine wire screen that you referred to. It looks clean to me and seems to be operating fine. This morning when I started the truck, it started right up but would only stay running while revving at about 2500-3000 rpm. Once I let off, it slowed to idle and would stall. Only after about 30 minutes of this would it eventually idle on its own but very rough and at about 1200. I think I read somewhere that 800 is the idel rpm. It is later in the day now and it seems to start and run fine with an idle about 800 but still very rough. I sprayed all the ignition wires and distributor cap, etc with fine spray of water and could not make it stall or even slow any so that all seems to be OK. It is still returning the same codes though (14, 25 and 26). I am not sure what to do next.
  • cshillcshill Posts: 1
    I had my oil changed last month and the during the process of changing the oil the company spilled oil on the engine and used a hose to wash off the oil. When I got the car back the engine was very sluggish and had very little power. It was determined that water had gotten into the engine through the air intake. Within an hour of this occurring the check engine light came on so I had it check and was told that the Mass Air Flow Sensor was burned out. Since the engine was struggling so hard to run due to the water, could this have caused the sensor burn out?

    Thanks
  • sunday420sunday420 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 4runner limited with 90k miles. Runs great accept for it rarely starts then dies. Engine ingages and dies. If I hold the gas it stays started but lacks power. It had this problem twice before but started after a few minutes and ran fine. I cannot put into gear cause it dies when i let off the gas. help
  • I have a 2007 4 runner. After shutting the vehicle off and letting it sit for a few minutes, when I try and start it, it cranks over and over without starting. When I turn it off and start again, it works. I only have 11,000 miles on it and it is still under warantee.

    Any ideas?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    It could just be a battery problem possibly related to cold weather. Does the problem vary with ambient temperature?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I had the mass flow sensor replaced and the check engine light came back on. My mechanic said that the sensor was actually dirty (he mentioned the K&N may have not been completely dry??), cleaned it and the light stayed off of 4 months. Came on again today, can I clean it myself? I know you responed w/ direction but for a 95 4runner, will the same work for mine? I'd rather not have to go back to the mechanic...Also, should I use a different aircleaner? I heard that one could also cut a large hole in the front of the air cleaner box and block off the elbow to get better airflow, is that true/worth it? Thank you in advance!
  • bmetkebmetke Posts: 2
    2002 4runner misse's at 45 to 50 mph.Plugs changed,code identifie's multiple missfire's.Daughter's car and she live's in another state so all is being done on phone,Help
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    Same issue with my 2006 Sienna that still had the OEM battery. I went to Sam's club and tested it and found out the cold-crank-amp (CCA) were in the ~400 (should be upper 500's), so I changed/bought a new battery that has 640 cold-crank-amp (CCA) and works great now...
  • bmetkebmetke Posts: 2
    Thanks,The battery tested 100cca's.Now new battery but still has the miss 45 to 50 mph's,Still need help.
  • 2000 4runner-V6-code reads PO171-lean on right side- intermittent problem-some times when started engine idles up high, then down low and sometimes stalls. Touch accelerator for a moment and problem diminishes. Removed air housing, cleaned, removed "idle air control valve"-looked good- bled fluid lines- reinstalled everything-problem still persists intermittently.
  • bosn187bosn187 Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    when i try to start my truck latly theres a delay and then it starts now i cant get the truck toturn over at all i dont seem to be getting any power to the starter .(battery,starter ,ingnition switch,)all good any sugestions ?
  • I bought this 91 4runner used about 3 years ago. I live in Florida and associated the heat not allowing it to turn over.. We have had the starter replaced @3weeks ago..the alternator 5 months ago, a new batter put in 3 weeks ago and still when it gets hot out, it does not turn over.. i never had a problem first thing in the morning, but today it was cool, it had rained all night and the darn thing would not kick over.. usually I just jump start it with the portable battery jumpstart, but not even this.. i am so frustrated and cannot affort a new car.. no one seems to know what the problem is.. took it to sears and they did a computer diagnosis and said it was an electrical issue.. HELP!!
  • It cranks on first couple of rotations and idles nice and smooth, but when I press the accelerator it tries to stall. Once I get it moving it will not get above about 50 mph and it just drinks up the fuel. Any ideas as what to look for?
This discussion has been closed.