Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

nofeer

Thanks for the quick response for a car seat, tomorrow we go looking for the brands you all suggested. Whew!!!! much off my shoulders

benzams

i own a 1999 ML320 and a 2001 S430, and my S430 has the "Xenon lights", and i too, thought that Xenon headlamps were supposed to be bluish white, but instead, they were whitish, and a small tint of yellow. I asked my local benz dealership that question, and they said its supposed to be whitish. Then, what kind of light's do those other cars have that i see on the freeway that have the bluish lights???? Special Xenon? By the way, i have been using them for over a year now (S430 xenon lights). My wife's Lexus LS430 has the high intensity discharge headlamps (same as xenon) and they are to me, more white than the mercedes.

c_j_gordon

I'm considering having my oil changed by a 3rd party garage (e.g. firestone). My '99 ML320 is not covered by the MB maintenance plan. I've already bought several filters from the dealer. Is there anything noteworthy that I should tell the garage to be aware of...other that use 8 qts. of Mobil One 5W-30. I'm sure they'll drain it through the oil pan plug, although I read where use of a vaccuum device (e.g. topsider) is useful. My dealer drains it through the plug. What should I caution the garage about?

wmquan

Good hunting (for the car seat). I know Babies'R'Us stocks the Britax Roundabout but I'm not sure if they carry the Advantage. Since the Advantage has a couple of nice enhancements, I think it's worth the extra 10% or so in price (these seats are around $200-$220; not cheap but Britax is worth it).

Outside of them, some specific baby/toddler stores, particularly the higher-end ones, will carry Britax as well. You can easily find them on the web with free shipping but I know you're in a hurry.

Anyone know if MB has updated its BabySmart convertible seat to the level of the Advantage? I believe the previous convertible BabySmart was based on the Roundabout. You can tell by the Advantage having a knob to raise and lower a headrest and the top shoulder strap anchorage; the Roundabout does not have the headrest and the knob (has three pairs of slots to thread the straps through).

birger

Hi,

By "the larger bulb" I suppose you're referring to the inboard H7 lights. On North American models, these are used as "flash-to-pass" lights when the normal headlights are OFF. Seeing that you (Canada??) have DRL's, it's normal (though odd) that they never come on.

If my informations are correct, on European models these bulbs are active as "flash-to-pass" lights, but also when using the high beams.

As to the color issue, I think there's no significant difference between the ML's Xenons and other cars.

Kind regards,
Birger

wniel

I'm still driving a 98ML that I bought new in November of 1997. It had more than its share of problems but fortunately had a great dealer who was more than willing to work with me to fix them all. I can honestly say that the truck performs very well now with no squeeks and rattles and I currently have 56K miles on it. I have been a Mercedes owner for the past 15 years and know all about the quality that they have been known for and what they provided. I must say that I was a bit disappointed with the first ML even though I bought one. One must realize that when it first came out it was in competition with all of the other mid size suvs that were on the market at the time i.e. Ford Explorer and others. If they had initially come out with a high end vehicle totally built in the Mercedes tradition, the truck would have cost in excess of $80K and would have priced themselves totally out of the market for the majority of SUV owner wannabees. As you know the G wagen that Mercedes built for years in Europe was and is considered the best suv ever built sells in the neighborhood of nearly 90K depending what it's equipped with. They just now started bringing them into the US. One of the most important things to remember is that the ML does have an all Mercedes drive train built in Germany. This should be the most important thing to consider. Mercedes as you know has been making improvements to the ML and I think that they will definitely continue as more and more people are willing to pay more money for their SUV's than they did four years ago. All of the newer improvements cost more money and we the consumer will have to pay for it if that's what we want. Personally when I bought mine I liked the utility interior cause I use it for numerous tasks around the house like hauling lumber etc.to build projects, and anything else that comes along. Just my opinion.
Wally

ctic

Advise not to buy MB baby seats. I have the middle sized one. It's uncomfortable for the infant to sit in, they don't like it. The only advantage is that you can use it in the front seat. Uh, the other advantage is that if your kid has an pee-pee accident, the seat has enough padding and a non-permeable pad underneath to keep the leather seat dry.

For babies, the best seat to buy is the one with the base. This way you don't have to keep threading the seat belt through the carrier everytime you bring the baby.

Regarding quality, I've been reading this board since 1998 or so. There seems to have been a considerable jump in quality since the MY 2000 ML's. I have a 2000 320. The 2 major things I've had done under warranty was replacement of the CD player (known but rare problem), and replacement of all the door seals (for wind noise) but that didn't help.

The most complaints on this board have been what I call intangibles: noises, rattles, trim problems. I've had a few. I also believe that other dealers such as Honda or Subaru would simply have laughed at those complaints, but from what I can see and have experienced, the MB dealers will actually fix or try to fix them.

Utility: I also use it as a work truck and I've carried unbelievable amounts of things in it. From 2 by 4's, to wooden pallets, trash, refridgerators (small ones.) They should have filmed me and used me for an ad.

mark156

Bon Bon, I had the same question about the headlights on my ML 500. My salesman and the head mechanic couldn't explain this. Since the 2002 offers Bi-xenons, the shutter will open to give you "high beams" when the xenons are on. When my lights are off, the headlight (closest to the grill) will come on if you need to "flash" anyone. (As Birger states)

Question to Birger or anyone....The problem that I've noticed recently is that my headlights are blinding on coming cars. They flip their high beams on blinding me. Can these be adjusted a little lower as not to cause me blinding them?

Also, when I have my parking lights on, my fog lights will not come on unless my headlights are switched on. Can the dealer make my fog lights illuminate with just my parking lights on?

Thanks, Mark

abc246

Your definition of intangibles is not typical. I think all of those items you listed would be major problems in my book, rattles, noises, trim problems- and I drive a Silverado and Blazer! I would definitely sell the vehicle if it had these problems and the dealer did not correct them.

Now that Chevy trucks cost about as much as some MB products I have been cross shopping them. I test drove a ML 2 years ago and it rattled on the test drive! At least my Blazer waited 2 years before it started to rattle.

I can tell you that the Chevy dealer worked hard at fixing everyone. I even had a noise that only occurred in low range, brakes on, with gas pedal about half way to floor. The SUV was nearly stretching out the front suspension. It turned out to be one loose front differential bolt. It only made noise in deep sand on the beach, but it should not make any noise.

I have been looking at the C230 coupe (great deal) or the ML to replace the Blazer. Also looking at Tahoes for the around the same price as a ML. I do not know if I want another SUV or a fun car to drive.

jorgegvb

I am a Realtor and my clients seems to find it hard getting in and out of my ML 320. I think it affects smaller people more than taller ones. Anyway, I am thinking about adding step bars, but MB wants $649 +labor, which I think is pretty expensive. Has anyone one found a good aftermarket step bar at a reasonable price?

tidester

You could probably write most of that cost off on your taxes.

tidester
Host
SUVs

senc

Speaking of the G wagon, my brother also has a G, and for my money, I'll take the ML any day. His is a 2002 model and the interior is very nice, but the thing is just too primitive an impractical for me..It makes the ML look gorgeous side by side!

mclass4

I've already had a power steering leak and a faulty fuel pump after 11 days of driving my new 2002 ML320. Anyone else had this to occur with a NEW ML320?

mark156

mclass4, I've had mine since December 17th and 3,300 miles and not nary a problem. I really like this vehicle.... especially the third seat option for extra people. The air conditioning is wonderful (has already been in the upper 90's in the southern California Desert) .

M.

markalansc

I have a 2000 ML 430 and it has been terrible in terms of quality. It has had some form of problem an average of every two to three months. The brake light switch has failed multiple times, the rear brakes needed replacement after 22000 miles, the wiring in the steering wheel failed, a short caused the battery to die at 30000 miles, the MCS CD malfunctioned, and the list goes on. The service department at the dealer is great, but I'm seeing way too much of them. Overall the truck is a tremendous disappointment.

mclass4

Mark,
How was your experience with the Mercedes Customer Service center? Do you still fill out the surveys?

1wiseguy

I didn't get a response from anyone here (post #5917) but had to make a decision, so I bought a 1999 ML320 last week (leather, moonroof, side runners, heated seats).

It was used by a senior executive at my office who was transferred internationally and could not bring the car with him (different cost centres and all). The company had to sell it and I figured that I could possibly get it for a good price- i.e bidding against dealer's wholesale offers.

I ended up getting it for $30,000 Canadian (roughly $USD 18,600). The car has 40,000km on it (roughly 25,000 miles) and is generally in good shape although there are a few rock chips that need touch-up on the hood. The MB dealership looked it over and signed all the paperwork certifying it to Ontario government standards for the sale of a used vehicle and made it clear that it was still under warranty for another year and 25000 miles. They found nothing wrong with it.

Yes, the ML320 has a few rattles but if you buy it knowing that, it's not a surprise.

Does anyone know if the depreciation is likely to be significant on a 3 year old low mileage 320 or if I have any access to an extended warranty? If I could buy an extended warranty? Will I need an extended warranty? I live 5 miles from work and expect to put no more than 10000 miles on it this year.

procter

3rd party oil changes. I don't like paying the dealer to change my oil, and so I do my own. -- every 5000 mi. by the way. First, you can get non - MB filters and they work fine- I use Bosch. Second always drain. The dip stick sucker leaves oil in the pan and it is the bottom oil so it has the worst dirt etc. Third, you'll have to go to the dealer to get the Maint. Monitor reset. Should be done for free as it's no big deal.

Step rails. I got Manix stainless for about $250. They have a web site. However, my observation is most people don't gain much help getting in and out. Let's face it the ML is really a truck.

Tire Size. I'm still looking for the max. size tire I can put on 17 in. wheels. Any help?

tomhock

The owner's manual gives instructions to re-set the FSS display. Simple to do.

wniel

Procter, I couldn't disagree with you more regarding the use of the Topsider that sucks the oil out of the crankcase. The truth of the matter is that the Topsider removes more oil than if you removed the drain plug. This has been proven many times by others and myself on this and other Mercedes lists. The drain plug sits on the side of the pan and leaves at least a quarter of an inch of oil in the bottom of the pan. When removing the drain plug after sucking it out, not nary a drop comes out. Many Mercedes delearships use this same system in changing oil especially on the ML due to the mess that it crates with the plug on the side of the pan. Without putting up a piece of cardboard or some other makeshift splash shield, the oil flows all over the side of the tire and on the cross members under the truck. What a mess. I too used to believe that it was best to remove the drain puug for the reasons that you mentioned until seeing for myself what the best method is.
Wally

cdic

I have seen much here on this topic, but nothing to change my own mind one way or the other. I agree with 'procter' re: 5K oil change interval, even if it is Mobil One and should last forever. On the other hand, I have found the 'top-sider' (or similar) to be the most efficient way to change the oil in almost any car. Changing the filter of the M Class is still a bit messy, but I have tested the dip-stick oil suction to my own satisfaction. Nothing comes out if you drain through the dip-stick and then remove the drain plug. I do agree that there could be 'dirty oil' left at the base no matter what technique you use, so I usually drain the oil after having used the car. More of the dirt is probably in suspension at this time then when you let it sit until it is cool.

wniel

I would just somewhat agree with cdic regarding the suspension of the dirt in the oil after having run the engine. If using the topsider or similar device, one should run the engine for five minutes to warm it up slightly and to suspend the dirty particles. (Actually the filter will eliminate any supsended bits of particulate if they are heavy enough to sink to the bottom with inactivity)Warming the engine slightly increases the pour point of the oil making it easy to suck out, however, one shouldn't get the engine or oil up to normal operating temperatures and then try to suck it out as the hot oil will soften the plastic suction hose and cause it to collapse with the suction.
Wally

rockypaul

For the truly anal, like myself, using either method of draining or sucking, simply pour in a half quart to clear the pan bottom.

rajesh_pappu

I have a 98 ML 320. One of the head lamp bulb burned out yesterday and the closest dealership is 40 miles. Can anyone suggest where I can replace the bulb without messing up the circuits/wiring? Any opinions about buying bulbs that produce White/Blue light? Thanks.

adam86

Anybody know of a good dealership in the Portland/Vancouver area offering good prices on 2001 ML320's? I'm looking for a replacement to our Durango, which is the most unreliable car we have ever had. Hopefully I can save money by purchasing last years model instead of the 2002. Thanks

adam86

Also, if anybody has any idea on what a loaded(M1,Bose,Skyview,Heated Seats,M3,possibly M7) 2001 ML320's price would be right now, that would be much appreciated. Thanks Again.

leibrecht

I bought a 2002 ML320 in October. It has just over 5,000 miles on it and I have not had any problems at all. I haven't gone back to the dealer yet, but when I do, I will probably have a hood wind deflector installed to hopefully keep paint chips from occurring. I may also have them disengage the function of the radio that increases/decreases the volume automatically based on speed/wind noise. It seems I always have to turn the volume back up after I come to a stop. Other than that, I LOVE the ML320. I hope I got one of the good ones and that I don't experience any of the quality problems that have been mentioned.

ripleyiii

I'm very happy with my new 2002 ML500 purchased 7 days ago. The salesman raised his eyebrows when I said I wanted Black, saying it would be hard to keep up the shine.

Sorry -- I've always wanted Black and I got it. Needless to say, I love it. Now many of my friends are telling me what to do about clear coat, waxing, etc. and I'm getting overloaded with advice.

What steps should I take to protect the finish of this new Black car?

doudoudid

does anyone know if the 2004/5? ML picture on this article a real one? if you enlarge it, it said computer-enhanced photo, but it's on edmunds website so i guess it can be trusted?! i think it looks nice but at the same time it looks like RAV4

http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/futurecars/articles/44810/page025.html

mrwhipple

Meguiar's Professional Yellow Wax #26 is great for Black. I've been using it for 13 years. It's great for clear coats as well. The name does sound funny, but it doesn't leave any yellow color behind.

ripleyiii

Thanks mrwhipple for the Meguiar's Professional Yellow Wax #26 tip (have I got it all right?). Do I wax over the clear coat, or add more clear coat before waxing?

I hope these aren't dumb questions.

Now I’d also like to respond to this one (#5924, “New (Proud) owner of an ML 500”, bon_bon, dated March 28), albeit late. I just bought my 2002 ML500 and I’ve been considering the vehicle carefully, too. Mine is Black/Java, Bose, M3, M7 (no Xenon). I’ve put 500 miles on it the first week and at this rate I’m going to run out of warranty in 2 years!! I feel I got a good price ($360 over invoice) and the added chrome makes the car look far better than the similar 320. I’m considering adding a step.

I still own the vehicle this is replacing: Ford Explorer. As veteran MB owners will tell you, this is a quantum step forward from a Ford! I’m gonna dump it as soon as I can get it together.

I agree with bon_bon on a couple of things. The Navigation System was a slight disappointment because you have to enter the address in a parked position. It’s probably good because it prevents me from typing while driving, but doesn’t explain preventing the passenger ability to do so. This is a small inconvenience because I didn’t buy the car to tell me where to go. But I have found that you don’t have to have the radio on when using the Nav System. Put on the CD player. If there’s a CD in it, pause it. Or, put it on an empty CD slot.

But I wish the CD player controls were a little closer to me, or on the wheel. But I’m tall and I can handle it. The changer in the back is a good idea. Let’s not clutter the front cabin with CD’s and cases. That really gets to me.

The only other interior problem I have is with my phone. No place to put it. I suppose I’m encouraged to buy the Mercedes built-in phone, but that would mean having 2 phones, 2 numbers and the hassles that go with it. I would still need my portable phone even if I did get the built-in one. So where to put the phone? On the center console near the ashtray? That’s one idea. It usually ends up on the passenger seat.

I like the seats and the three pre-sets, but frankly I thought the BMW X5 had the best seats around. And since I spend a lot of time on the road, this was a serious issue before buying the ML. But doesn’t seem to be an issue now that I’ve been driving the car for a week.

Yes, I feel some of the road, but this is the best driving truck around. Remember, it is not a Camry body. It is a truck, and a powerful one at that.

But I, too, miss the door ajar warning. Would this be too hard to show on the dash somewhere? But the closing of the doors is good. Heavy doors are good, not light ones and I don’t consider it “slamming” when they are closed properly. The matte paint finish along the door is great because it doesn’t show fingerprints on my (black!) paint. Too bad there isn’t a similar feature for the boot. I usually have to put my hand on the chrome for the final push down.

I hear the engine when I accelerate, but it doesn’t bother me. In fact, I love knowing that I have something in reserve on the freeway when I have to get around traffic, and I’m already cruising at 65. Just don’t stomp on it. You don’t have to.

I had to adjust my headrest ‘way up to provide good “snap back” protection. Now it’s perfect. I took out the center headrest for the back seat because it obstructed my view entirely.

As for air recirculation: It is unhealthy to recycle the same air continuously in the cabin. Normally, you want to pull in “fresh” air to replenish “old” air. A common complaint in airplanes is second-hand air: Recycled air spreads throughout the cabin and everyone shares the air.

As for the fit and finish, this is great. I’m waiting to experience knocks and rattles, but none have arisen. I do hear my seat squeak from time to time, and I’m about to get under it with a can of WD-40.

I am grateful there is no sound for the lock/unlock doors. Some people may need this to locate their car in a parking lot, but I don’t really want to call attention to myself by chirping each time I park, so this works for me.

Everyone has an opinion, and I am grateful for bon_bon’s posting to inspire me to jot down mine. In short, I may be a more grateful owner, because, as I mention at the top, I just moved up from a Ford. If that is the case, then as I “mature” in my ML500, perhaps I’ll become more demanding and/or more critical. But I don’t think that will happen right away.

Good luck and good driving!

mrwhipple

If you need to, you can use Meguiar's Deep Gloss Polish before you use the main wax. It's specially made for dark colors & clearcoats.

If the paint was oxidized, their carnuba wax cleaner or heavy duty car cleaner are both quite good. Luckily you have new paint.

bzoomie

Been reading this board over 2 years - now need some advice.

Rust on passenger door where the molding attaches on front of the door around to the inner door jam. Rust coming from inside and bleeding through paint.

MB refuses to cover completely - only 50% since car out of warranty (I drive 35k miles/year on highway). MB recommends scraping rust off - not a new door. Is this good enough?

ML only been through 2 light winters and garaged. My previous domestic cars never had this problem.

Dealer took it to DSM and I called 800FORMERC - what else, where else should I go to get some help. Does anyone else have this issue? Watch your doors!

Brandy
bzoomie@aol.com

thor8

let me see if I understand correctly, you are saying the rust is coming from the door trim or mold that runs along the doors?

If that is the case have you removed the trim and seen the rust? it could be one of the brackets rusting. For what you are describing seem to me an easy fix, it could be treated chemically also.

Nobody will give you a new door because is an easy fix and the repair will last for the life of the vehicle if done rigth.

bzoomie

thor8
thanks for the reply. We removed the molding (I was hoping it was the bracket/fastener), but the rust is coming from inside of the door (looks like it may have originated from where the fastener pierced the door.)
However the rust has progressed to beyond just the door front (separate piece that can be removed according to MB) and to the side of the door (different piece of metal that is joined to the front of the door) and located in the jam between the front and back doors.

I was concerned that this area could be treated since it involved an area where the 2 pieces of the door was joined.

I also wonder where else this could be happening. My friend (car engr for mfg and has been to Tuscaloosa to see the ML assembled) believes it is a factory defect from when the molding was assembled to the car.

I just feel MB should take care of this completely. I want to make sure it is fixed correctly (with no repeat issues).

Thanks for your help. I may try to post a picture of it.

Brandy
bzoomie

tdavenport

I've got a 2000 ML 55 that in the overall has been a good car.The only gripe is that periodically the power steering decides not to work. Dealer service techies are going bald scratching thier heads trying to divine a remedy. I get real nervous driving it when I'm preparing to go subsonic. Any fellow ML55'rs out there had this same problemo.

ron320

My phone has the standard user installed stud on the back to attach to a belt clip. At Best Buy, I picked up a clip that accepts the stud and is flat on the back with a peal and stick surface. I stuck the clip between the seat warmer and rear wiper switches. Perfect fit. I remove the phone from my belt clip when I get in and clip it on the dash. I would not recommend trying to remove the clip so make sure you have it in the right place before you stick it.

ripleyiii

Thanks for the tip, ron320, but I'm not sure I get this. First of all, what kind of phone do you have? I have a small one like the Motorola StarTac, but it's actually a Samsung.

Anyway, you're telling me that a phone could fit on the dash between 2 of the 6 toggle switches? The heated seat switch is the first toggle, and the rear wiper is #2. I can't see how you could put a phone there. Or even a clip to hold a phone.

What am I missing? Sorry...

ron320

I have a Nokia 6120i phone. Yes, the clip fits between the two switches. It's almost a perfect fit. Hope this helps.

mark156

Boy, I sure have been getting flashed lately. I've had my ML since Dec. 17 and haven't notice anyone flashing their brights at me until just recently. Now, it seems like it happens everytime I'm out at night. So, I went to the dealer and asked them if the bi-xenons can be adjusted and he said they now have a new machine that allows them to do that. My appointment is on Wednesday; I'll let you know how it works out.

I would also like to be able to turn on my fog lights with the light switch in the "parking mode." Currently, they will only come on if the headlights are on. My service guys is going to find out if this is a changeable feature.

Happy Motoring, Mark

rockypaul

Sub sonic?

How fast have you had the 55?
Did it feel stable and you feel in control, esp. the steering input.

Who has had a 320 over 100mph?
Same questions.

neil99

My homelink sometimes will open or close both of my garage doors even if I only press the designated button. I have programmed the first button to open one garage door. The second button is programmed to open the adjacent garage door. The third button works fine at my friend's community gate. Has anyone have this issue with their homelink?

psedrish

My '02's HomeLink refuses to learn the code from my digital lock. My Caddy learned it on the first try and works flawlessly. Hmmmm.
Another thing: in both my cars, the turn signals and hazard flashers always work only intermittently. Should I be concerned?

ipipip

Hi everyone,
One of the local Dealer offer me $40,000 for the 2002 ML 320 in Silver color. Is it a good deal? Any suggestion? Thank you.

$40,000 Including M1, M5, M7, Bose System with cd changer, and Heated seats.

joecone

What kind of mileage can I expect with the 2002 ML320 now that it has gained several hundred pounds. Would appreciate if 02 ML320 owners would post their highway MPG...Thanks

mark156

joecone, I know that you requested mileage on a 320 but I thought I would give the mileage I've been getting on my ML500. I have a little over 4,000 miles on my unit and get about 12 in the city and have reached 20 on the highway on a recent 300 mile trip.

Mark

2002svtf150

While I had a few teething issues with my ML55 back in 2000, it's been OK since then. I had a noise in the steering rack when it was new, but no power steering issue. Good luck. I've had the ML55 too fast a couple of times & it was as stable as my C5. It is confidence inspiring at insane speeds. I was driven at well over 120 mph at Talladega International Speedway during a test session with the ML55's in the fall of 1999 & it was impressive. I live 10 minutes from T'dega, & MB had a M Class open house at the track that year. I went the next week & ordered my ML55 to replace my '99 Ml430.

birger

Rockypaul,

I regularly go 100 mph or more (considerably more! ;-)) in my ML. Both my previous 1999 ML 320 and the present 2001 ML 270 CDI Carlsson have been rock-steady at those speeds, but of course you have to be alert and ready to hit the brakes in case of sudden slower traffic. The 320 had the ____/// roof, so wind noise was more of an issue. The 2001 models with added insulation are a great improvement in NVH - as I'm sure the 2002's are too.

Doing 0 mph - but ready for more! ;-)



Kind regards,
Birger

rockypaul

Too bad MB does not run NASCAR!
An ML with a zillion decals would be a sight to behold.
A new suv NASCAR class with permission to short cut through the infield grass at restrictor plate tracks like Daytona and Talladega would be special.
I think we may be onto a new racing hybrid season.

mark156

Just got the ML500 back yesterday and now the headlights are adjusted. Before I took the vehicle to the dealer, I put tape on the garage wall to mark where the headlights were hitting. When I got the ML back, I rechecked it and it appears that the headlight beam is about 2 inches lower. I hope it works.

M.