Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

ricarey

I have a '99 camry and have both alligned/rotated/balanced my tires (recently), as well as keeping the pressure at the correct 30psi cold. I experience a vibration that is not 100% consistent at highway speeds. Usually feels like the rear of the vehicle and can be felt through the steering column as well as the seat. Sometimes it goes away when I take my foot off the accelerator, but not always. I have brand new struts/springs on the front, <1yr old struts on the back, and original springs on the back. Any advice on where to start looking is welcomed. Thanks

newbert

I just acquired the car 2 months ago...I don't know if you've every driven around Washington D.C., but on occasion you have to give it everything she's got to get safely on the highway during rush hour. It seems like everyone drives at 80 or 90 MPH in every lane here.

Although the engine redlines at 6500, the tranny typically won't let you rev past 5500 before it shifts. Once I had the problem, I tried to duplicate it a few times and sure enough every time I rev it up it happens.

It hits about 5000 Rpms, then starts to shift to the next gear, then hesitates and clicks back into the same gear unless I let off the gas pedal a little. It doesn't seem to matter what gear it is shifting into either.

Anyone else have any clues?

newbert

Sometimes brake rotors can make your car vibrate at highway speeds even if you aren't applying the brake.

Replaced the rotors recently?

newbert

I have 2 camrys. One 1997 V6 LE, and a 1992 V6 XLE.
The steering column doesn't grind on either one, but they both squeak a little.
Sounds like a kid on a rubber inner tube. It's wierd. No idea what it is either...

It only seems to happen when I turn it quickly though.

phd86

storm, fyi:

a search of 210delray revealed he blue smoke at 57 and 111k, before listing his 97 on e-bay. a bit early for stemseals, to say the least.

I remain suspicious about lubrication/temperature issues for any of these problems, but if anyone has a verified notice on a stemseal recall....chime in.

better yet, have the appropriate testing done in conjunction with a compression check - and post the results here. If delray (and alcan) are right; it will only cost you 2 grand instead of 5.

coldplace

I recently put some fuel injector cleaner in my 1986 Toyota Camry, after that it will not start. I replaced the fuel filter, still no luck. Any suggestions as to what the problem can be?
Thanks

ricarey

I had the front pads/rotors replaced, but have not replaced any of the rear drum brake parts. I've had the rear brakes cleaned/adjusted 2x in the past 6 months...seems odd that they need such frequent readjustment. Think it could be the rear drum brakes making the vibration?

w9cw

Actually, there is a car tested by IIHS without side airbags which scores very well - the new Ford Five Hundred. Not that I would personally buy one, but I wanted to note that the Five Hundred does very well in side impact testing w/o their side airbag option.

couchman

Thanks to everybody who've replied.

I did eventually use 15 ft/lb as the torque. The cars runs with no problem.

The old plugs from cylinder 2, 3, and 4 look completely normal, just with some worn and ash deposite. However, the thread and electrodes of the old plug from cylinder one are soaked with oil. And there is sign of burning on the portion just above the flat seat.

I installed the new plugs. And drove for about 10 days. Took out the plug from cylinder one. Again I am seeing oil on the thread and electrodes.

Anybody can shed some light on what the problem might be? How to fix it or how do I ask a shop to fix it?

210delray

The Ford Five Hundred did well in the frontal offset test. You are correct in that the car tested had no side airbags.

However, the Five Hundred has not yet been tested in the side impact test.

210delray

...if the IIHS has scored almost *every* car as poor w/o the side bags, don't you think that is something where 1) their standards are too high (any idea on what their criteria is for "passing"? I mean, there are plenty of accidents and ppl in the back seat do walk away from a total wreck) and 2) shouldn't these be standard?

It is a tough test -- it simulates a large SUV or pickup hitting the side of the test vehicle, in the passenger compartment area. In cars without side airbags, the driver's head usually makes direct contact with the intruding barrier face, equivalent to hitting your head on the impacting SUV or pickup. The test speed, however, is a relatively low 31 mph.

Side airbags serve as a cushion that intervenes between the intruding barrier and the dummy's head -- and this makes an important difference. Also, the car's structure (doors, pillars, and door sills) must be strong enough to resist significant intrusion.

In the IIHS test, the rear dummy does usually fare better, because the test is set up in a way that maximizes intrusion at the driver's seating position.

Yes, by all means side airbags that protect the head should be standard, and NHTSA's planned upgrade of the side impact standard will necessitate that all vehicles have these airbags in the future.

The 2004-05 Camry with side airbags scored a Good rating, and since the 2006 model will be unchanged, its test results (with side airbags) will also be Good.

210delray

I thought you were literally redlining the tranny. I didn't realize the problem was occurring at 5000 rpms. Unfortunately, I don't know what's causing the problem.

210delray

You didn't get it quite right. The blue smoke on my '97 Camry 4-cylinder started at 57K miles, and the diagnosis was worn valve stem seals. These were replaced under the powertrain warranty in the summer of 2000. The dealer said the cost would have been $800 to $1,000.

The blue smoke on startup began occurring again at 102K miles. I didn't bother with a repair this time. I sold it on eBay with a disclosure in early 2004 at 111K miles. It was sold not because of the smoking, but because I wanted to get side airbags on a 2004 model.

I changed the oil and filter at 5000 miles or less throughout the life of the car. I also changed the coolant at 30K miles and 60K miles. At 60K miles, I switched to Dex-Cool long life coolant.

I checked (and continue to do so for my current vehicles) the oil, coolant, and other fluid levels weekly, more often on long trips. The '97 Camry never overheated.

I have not heard of a recall for the valve stem seals on the Camry 4-cylinder.

210delray

I doubt it's the rear drum brakes. I would bet one or more tires are not properly balanced (possibly, one or more wheel weights fell off while driving). If the vibration only occurs at certain speeds (commonly 50-60 mph), then improper balance is the most likely reason for the vibration.

Now if the vibration occurs most noticeably while braking, then I'd guess the front brake rotors are warped.

210delray

If the car is running fine, not blowing blue smoke, not consuming oil excessively, and still passing emissions tests (if you have them), then I don't think it's worth worrying about.

Is your gas mileage remaining consistent also?

iraqicamryguy

Hello... I know this issue take much time but realy its hard to do it here, any way I went to some of the (stupid) mechanics and they told me we can do you scan but our devices for the scan that we use its just for scan !!??? we can't get you the error code, so I thing they just take ur mony for nothing, but I found someone he's one of the best that we have here in Baghdad but may be it gonna take me week or more to see it and I will see if he can get me the codes and if not may be am gonna take my car to Jordan-Amman next month to do that, any way Thanx to u and I will let you know as soon as go there but let me know if its ok to drive it like this or not and thank you again
Regards

teresakd3

The check engine light will not go off. The car runs fine. We hooked it up to diagnostic & it said to change the cam position sensor which this car does not have or the single circuit. We do not know where the single circuit sensor is. Help!!

pavlovsdog

I have an 02 LE with 19000 miles on it and it does the same exact thing. I had it checked out by a toyota master tech. and he claims that it is the computerized idleing intermittently clicking up one notch too high, nothing they could do about it, and it is not harmful to the car. I don't believe that there is "nothing they can do about it"(it's probably just not cost effective), but I do believe that it is not harmful. Of course it could also be something else, but this was his opinion.

alcan

I understand that you're having some servicing difficulties. No problem taking up time here, just let us know what trouble codes eventually get retrieved and we'll go from there.

axthest

Hi

I just picked up my new camry SE 4 cylinder and I noticed that the car vibrates a bit violently in park (idling) and when I come to a stop at red light.

If I put the gear in neutral it becomes smooth and I feel no vibration.

I did not notice this problem in a test drive and I assume that It's not normal for a brand new camry to vibrate like mine does.

Did anyon else experience the same problem?
Is this normal or am I being too anxious?

BTW, I haven't had a chance to take it back to the dealer yet..

commish1

I haven't checked in in a while. Has there been any breakthroughs yet on the Hesitation problem (Especially in the '05 SE0?

scoti1

Not sure how long "a while" is, but sometime in June a TSB was issued. You can find links to it in the Engine Hesitation forum. Reports are mixed on its success in fixing the problem.

chevymalibu

I posted this on another camry board but this one gets more eyes!! thanks

Okay, now I'm mad. I got a 2004 accord and they say use honda trans fluid or you'll ruin the trans.There's other things we don't like about the honda so I got a new 2005 camry LE. Love it but just read the manual and it states that I have to use toyota trans fluid like the honda or else suffer the consequences. Okay, so I go and buy 3 qts from toyota every 30K or so (I change mine frequent to avoid issues). But it used to be that you could use dexron III for trans fluid. did so on my 1994's and my mom's 1998 model camry. That bites. So much easier to go to auto zone and the like and get a name brand trans fluid. Just like oil. they say use toyota oil (give me a break). I use castrol in my cars and it's better than the toyota stuff any day. As for power steering fluid, it's dexron III (go figure).

Has anyone used dexron III fluid instead of the toyota trans fluid???? thanks

210delray

Why would I want to take a chance on using Dexron III when Toyota calls for its own proprietary fluid? The extra cost of the Toyota fluid is nothing compared to the cost of a tranny rebuild or replacement. (Both my 2004 and 2005 Camrys call for using the proprietary fluid.)

BTW, you don't have to change the fluid every 30K miles anymore according to Toyota. In fact, if your car doesn't meet the "special operating conditons" (severe service), you don't have to change the fluid at all. However, a good compromise would be to change it every 50-60K miles.

You're not required, OTOH, to use Toyota-branded oil. Any quality 5W-30 oil with an API rating of SL will suffice.

Nothing to get mad about, IMHO.

210delray

I assume you mean the engine vibrates in "drive" and not "park" when you come to a stop.

I don't know what the problem is, but since your car is new and under warranty, you should take it back to the dealer as soon as possible. Demonstrate the problem while you drive and a service tech rides along.

tim98cam

I have a 98 Camry and a warning light came on. It is in the lower left hand corner.

It is a picture of a car with what appears to be the brake lights on.

I did not get an owners manual with my used car. I have one on order.

Anybody know what the warning is for? :confuse:

imidazol97

If the trans fluid volume is only 3 quarts, I would change it often and use the proprietary-priced fluid, even if it's the same as the DexIII. Especially if you do the drain and fill yourself. It's cheap insurance for the transmission life. That seems like a small volume that's drainable from the trans and might be half the real capacity. So change at 30K. Change at 60K and you still have 1/4 of the original fluid in the transmission.

The only way manufacturers can require you to use their oil and their filters is if they supply them; otherwise there's a law that was passed requiring them to honor warranties even if other brands were used.

nicholasj

I recently bought this car with only 78K on it. The car runs great, save for some hesitation which may be feeding into the transmission and engine giving jumpy feedback at high-end accelleration. I was told by the guys at the dealership to just spray some "gum out" through the air intake opening; but my father (a mechanic) is questioning this due to possible sensor damage. I've changed the fuel filter recently to notice the gas was milky, indicating water in the line. I've put in a fuel additive and run Chevron mid-range gas per reccommend of my dad, but it still runs a bit choppy. I was thinking I should bring it to the dealer to replace the plugs and such; but I don't want to get raked over the coals by getting talked into some "scheduled maintenance" that I really don't need. Any suggestions?

loucapri

FYI, even Toyota dealers use Castrol instead of TOYOTA's engine oil when you take your car to their service centers.

I never run into any dealers that use TOYOTA's engine oil at all. BUT they do sell it in their part and service department

Another thing is keep adding new ATF into old ATF just doesn't sound effective. Maybe instead of spending the money on ATF, just have the tranny flush once and you can sure to see the "PINK" in your ATF again.

ricarey

Thanks for the info, that was my thought as well. The only problem is that it was doing that before the wheels were balanced and continued or even got worse after. I think maybe the tires are out of round, which would lead to another trip to the tire shop.

imidazol97

>just have the tranny flush (sic) once

In this area I hear problems occurring after flushes. I'll stick with drain and filter changes occasionally for my own tranmission. I drive the car up on blocks and crawl under and less than an hour later, I'm done. I've seen the crud in the bottom of the pan to analyze any major problems throwing off debris; that doesn't happen with a flush. The flush is considered by _some_ as a transfer device; it transfers money from your pocket to the repairman's pocket.

bt4

Recently my camry started making a humming noise at idle that sounds a lot like the fans blowing but is not. The sound itself seems to be coming from somewhere near the firewall. I found a tsb for the 97 camry for a hose from a charcoal container making a similar noise, no tsb for the 2000 on this so perhaps it was fixed.

Occurs with and without the a/c and with and without the blower for the heat/a/c blowing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Bill

toyotabo

That light comes on to tell you it's time to replace a brake light bulb. replace both sides the other will fail soon as well

another_person

If brake lights look like they work fine, then it's time to have your brake pads looked at. It could also be that you are just low on brake fluid. I'd check the fluid level before I had the pads looked at.

mamathel

I am in the middle of flushing the engine coolant of our 96 camry, engine 5S-FE. Radiator has been fully flushed of the coolant but I could not find the engine drain plug for the coolant. Owner's manual is not very helpful. Please give me directions to find the location.

210delray

This warning lamp indicates that the brake OR taillights may not be functioning. The '97-'99 Camry has one pair of brake lights (outer red lamps) that serve as brake and taillamps (dual-filament bulbs). The inner pair of red lamps are taillamps only (single-filament bulbs).

Any one of these 4 bulbs could be malfunctioning, so replace both pairs, or at the very least, replace the outer pair first and see if the warning lamp goes off.

I think this system compares the electrical resistance in each pair of filaments, so if there's a significant difference, then the warning lamp illuminates. (It does not necessarily indicate a bulb has burned out.) This is why the bulbs should be replaced in pairs, as a new filament will have a different electrical resistance compared to an old bulb's filament.

This warning lamp is separate from the "BRAKE" warning lamp, which warns of low brake fluid level in the system, and the possible need to replace the front brake pads. (All cars are required to have this.)

210delray

I agree -- don't flush! It's costly, and it could cause problems. It could dislodge a bit of crud in a recess of the transmission innards and move it to a place that could cause problems, from what a knowledgeable "car man" at work tells me.

If you're concerned about the fluid, then I'd say just to drain and refill at frequent intervals; even though only about half of the fluid will be replenished at any one time, over time, all of the fluid will be exchanged.

BTW, imidazol, I hope you're not literally driving your car up on concrete (cinder) blocks. These can fail without warning. Get a decent set of ramps instead for your safety!

210delray

I agree that you are looking at some kind of tire problem, be it improper balancing, a shifted belt, or an out-of-round situation. It's also possible, but less likely, that a wheel rim is bent.

loucapri

"I'd say just to drain and refill at frequent intervals; even though only about half of the fluid will be replenished at any one time, over time, all of the fluid will be exchanged"

The theory about all the fluid will be exchanged over time just kinda of hard (for me) to believe.

I know some people in this board against Transmission Flush because of certain concern and cost, I can understand that. I feel that adding and mixing old fluid, or taking out the bottom cover frequently (with new gasket) sounds even less effective and require more work. (get under the car, collect the old fluid and find a place to recycle it...)

I do support your safety concern about using a good set of ramps when working under any car (bad experience when working in my old car)

ibhg31

Hi,

I purchase my '05 Camry LE w/15" wheels about 2 months ago. Last weekend, I took my family on a long drive and since I was not familar with the area so I took my Garmin GPS unit with me. It was during this drive that I noticed the speedometer was off about 4 to 5 miles per hour (at around 70.5 mph on GPS, speedometer was reading 75). In city it was off about 3 to 4 miles per hour and at 90 mph it was off by more than 5 mph.

I went to the dealership yesterday and they told me that the speedometer is set at the factory for each specific car and there is nothing they can do about it... I'm really concern because this means my odometer is not accurate.

Did anyone else w/15 tires experience the same problem?

How about others with 16" tires?

Thanks

210delray

With the Camry, there is only a drain plug (as for the engine oil). So you just remove the plug. ATF can be mixed with engine oil for recycling, because they're chemically very similar. You don't have to bother with gaskets or pans.

Technically, Toyota doesn't even call for changing the ATF at all if the car isn't used in severe service. So if you change the fluid, say at 15K mile or 30K mile intevals, it's true that you'll be mixing old and new fluid, but over time, the amount of original fluid in the system gets smaller and smaller. And you'll still be far ahead of not changing the fluid at all.

chevymalibu

I agree with you that the slight buck or two isn't that much for the toyo brand but why do they do that? can't they build a trans to use pennzoil or valvoline dexIII??? As for severe conditions, almost nobody drives totally under the "normal" conditions (at least here in the south were it's hot). I'll do a change every 30K or so. Toyota doesn't list the total volume of the trans but I bet it's close to double the drain like it is in my accord.

210delray

Why are you going 90 mph in this time of high gas prices?

I have no experience with GPS units, but you might want to try a using a stopwatch and compare your speedometer against highway mile markers. Keep your speed constant, and do it for at least 10 miles. 60 mph is a good speed to use, since that is equivalent to 1 mile per minute.

BTW, speedometer error and odometer error aren't necessarily the same. So check your odometer against the mileposts also. You don't need to maintain a constant speed for odometer checking, so you can do it over a longer number of miles for a more accurate check.

I find it hard to believe the dealer can't do anything. It used to be possible to change the gearing for the speedometer. 15 vs. 16-inch wheels shouldn't have been the problem, but it is true if you put 16-in wheels on now, the speedometer would be more accurate. (Larger tire/wheels = fewer tire revolutions per mile, meaning the speedometer will register fewer mph.)

chevymalibu

yeah, I hear you. My brother-in-law didn't change his fluid and the troopers trans died. I don't remember how many miles it had but it was 3-4 years old with origonal fluid. I think the miles were in the 40-50K range but not sure. The drain and refill is easy and cheap compared to the trans going.

BTW, imidazole is your name. you must be a chemist.

chevymalibu

question - does the 2005 have a trans filter?? the new accords don't have a trans filter and they don't have a differential fluid either. Does the 2005 camry have a differential or is it housed in the trans and you change it all in one drop of the trans fluid???

The reason why I ask is in my 1994 camrys, I had to drop the trans fluid, filter and there is a separate differential (near the trans itself) that I had to drop a drain plug and refill it with a fluid pump as the fill hole was on the side of the trans/differential.

Note, the manual doesn't list a differential fluid/maint schedule so I'm thinking its' all in the trans like the new hondas.

Thanks for the replys.

chevymalibu

that's cause there isn't one. you just drain the radiator and do water fills/flushes to remove what's in the block.

smrenna

I have the same problem with my 05 Camry w/15" tires that I bought a month ago. When the speedometer reads 60mi/hr the car is going 56 etc. The garage tells me that the speedometer is according to spec. This is a nuisance.

I reported this on my Purchase Survey to Toyota. I am waiting for reply.

Otherwise I am very satisfied with the car. It rides and handles like a dream. The car is so refined . I am disappointed that the speedometer readings are not accurate.

tomzpri

SAE closed loopholes that allowed some unscrupulous manufacturers from inflating data to make the HP numbers sound better than they actually were.

Toyota looks like the worst offendor on the list. Some manufacturers actually are very conservative and underreport the HP.

Toyota, Honda inflated claims of engine muscle; new tests force automakers to come clean with buyers

pilot130

I would urge readers to look upon this latest "revelation' with caution, if not outright skepticism in giving this news more play than it deserves.
Why?
1. Detroit is the home of the "Big Three".
2. Detroit News and Detroit Free Press are recognized as consistently biased toward the "Big Three."
3. The "Big Three" are all in trouble--big time--with plummeting sales, financial difficulties, and serious market share declines.
4. Toyota especially, plus Honda and a couple of other Asian automakers are consistently outperforming the "Big Three" in sales increases, market share increases, quality, reliability, resale value, new technology.
5. What kind of news would anyone expect from a newspaper in the home court of the "Big Three?"
6. The "old" SAE testing procedures were used by all automakers, and now the "new" testing procedures deliver "different" results.
So what does anyone expect "new" procedures to deliver--- the same results as the "old" ones?
7. Where did demand for new testing procedures come from--SAE??
Don't forget that the majority of members are employed by the "Big Three."

So I suggest that your use of the words "Unscrupulous", or "Worst Offender" is unfairly applied to just one automaker.
They all used the same "old" system to determine HP ratings, and they now all use the "new" HP ratings.
Every one of them is affected to a greater or lesser degree.

The Automotive Industry is a bitterly contested battleground. It's "Kill" or "Be Killed" out there, and Public Relations play a huge role in the combat tactics used by all automakers.

210delray

I agree that use of the words "Unscrupulous" or "Worst Offender" is overly accusatory.

I have a four-cylinder '05 Camry. So under the new procedure, the horsepower is down from 160 to 154. I'm not going to lose any sleep over it!

Actually, the Detroit Free Press in my view is rather even-handed when it comes to reporting on domestic vs. import makes. The Detroit News is more partisan, but even it ran an aggressive series on the weak roof strength of domestic vehicles, particularly the last-generation Ford Explorer.