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Subaru Crew - Modifications
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By the way Locke2c, I'm looking forward to seeing those tires you bought.
--I've also purchased through Crutchfield, they are good and their customer service is top notch. No complaints!! I'm saving up to get a Kenwood system package for MY00RS.
Enjoy your speakers Kens!
dave : I would hold off on headers for now as i heard mixe reviews about them. Apparently they rattle or hit the engien bay wall. Dunno I guess it's the Impreza's smaller size.
Bigger piping is in order over the stock midpipe. Not sure what's the Outback one. But Imprezas come with tiny McDonald Straw like midpipes! a 2.25" is optimum shud you stay N/A. Also your Stromung alone will not yield 5-6hp without the midpipe. In SCC it had the JC Sport 2.5" turbo midpipe on it. however 2.5" was a tad bit too big resulting in loss of torque and the sound was too loud. I say go invest in a good intake system instead.
website is http://www.rallispec.com the site is not always up to date, so you might want to give them a call if your looking for something special. They even design and build some of their own parts like air intake systems.
I'm a long ways from NJ but I've been very happy with my purchases from Rallispec-- adjustable rear sway bar and goodridge braided brake lines.
-Colin
However, I personally wouldn't touch the Borla headers with a 10' pole. I seriously would resell them if given to me instead of installing them. They are not even close to an equal length design (neither is stock!) but they also don't fit quite right and several owners have complained about welds cracking and needing to be repaired.
I would wait. If I bought a set of headers right now I'd head to a race machinist and have them one-off something for me. It would be cheaper than buying the SYMS or Cusco headers! (big $$$ and require legacy turbo / WRX engine crossmember.)
Have fun!
-Colin
bigelm: I'd pass on the chrome plating, and save up for 17" rims. But I'm a form follows function guy.
Hmm, I may have to plan a road trip to SoA headquarters, and pay a visit to rallispec while we're up there. Patti said they have some H6s wandering around
rochcom: that would be me! There is a secret, hidden 3rd screw at the bottom middle of the cup holder. You have to pry the center console back a bit to even see it! It's easier if you remove several screws on the console, so you can see what you're doing.
You're in luck. I took photos. Here are full instructions.
Sweet, you got the tires? Still waiting for mine...
Glad to hear it fit with only minor adjustments. Hope mine do too! The tire pro said it would without any changes.
Steering is LIGHTER? I'd have guessed the opposite. And the ride is better? Less tracking with a wider tire? Are we in the Twilight Zone?
Perhaps there's a higher land/sea ratio, and it's a summer tire without the loud all season tread?
This is why no theory can replace practical experience.
-juice
PS Looked closely at my old tires - though the wear indicators show there's some tread left, the outsides are badly worn (too hot around those exit ramps, I guess). This despite running 33psi in them! I'll see if I can get photos side-by-side with the new ones when they arrive.
Since I'm still a poor [non-permissible content removed] who can't afford any upgrades thanx, in part, to actually having to pay for the car, I did buy a Scooby Doo sticker for it yesterday.
Discount Tire Direct has specials on wheels, and every once in a while a few will fit our Soobs. I believe your offsets and such are the same as mine.
The MB Motoring rims I got were just $70 apiece, practically a giveaway. Though they're being discontinued, so keep that in mind (order 5, perhaps). They had a couple of others under $100, and several others for $120 and up.
OK, they're not 8 inch wide magnesium racing rims, but they are alloy (not steel) and at 16"x7" you have more room for serious rubber, plus the offsets allow it. I believe you have 15"x6" alloy now.
Hope they arrive today. You'll see photos for sure.
-juice
I did get a quick chance to check out the rims, which look SCHWEET I must say. They seem much beefier with the wider tires, too, much more appropriate for the Forester's image. They also seem light, but I'll weigh them to compare when I get the steel wheels off.
I measured the contact patch, and indeed, like Colin mentioned earlier, it's actually 8.5" or so wide, which is about 216mm, not 225. It still looks much, much wider than the stock 205s. I'll measure those later.
So I checked at Tire Rack, and sure enough, the 225 number is the section width. The tread width is usually smaller.
The tires are rated 460AA, vs. 180BB for the comparatively lame light truck OE tires (Bridgestone Desert Deulers). So they should last longer, grip better, and resist heat build up better. That may also be why they're H-rated, vs. the S-rating of the 'stones.
The Nitto NT460 tires I got are M+S rated, which surprised me a bit. Though the tread isn't exactly AutoX material, it should be a better compromise for my uses.
Sorry to bore you guys, this is my biggest purchase since I've owned the Forester, so I'm a bit excited!
-juice
Stephen
Though in person, they seem a lot different. They're pretty shiny, and seem more substantial. Probably because the tires are mounted.
Can't wait to try 'em out. Probably not until tomorrow, though.
-juice
You are unable to access this file directly because we do not allow files to be served to other sites. As a courtesy, we will allow you to retrieve the file by clicking here.
Oh, and nice wheels, juice!
..Mike
..Mike
Guess homepage.com has some sssllooooooww acting secutiry measures! %*}
-juice
PS Close your eyes, imagine 5 spokes, simple design, light looking, grey painted alloys. Or wait for pictures coming soon!
..Mike
but the lack of split folding rear seats would
force me to use a roof rack (don't like hitch
racks) for bikes, skis, snowboard, etc. Has
anyone mounted a roof rack on their 2000 legacy
sedan? If so what brand and how did it work for
you? My biggest concern is the frameless windows
on the legacy. The Thule rack on my Ford Probe
(frameless windows) interferes with the window
seals causing annoying wind noise through the
seals. Also the antenna on the GT could be a problem... I understand the GT limited has a integrated window antenna however. Any info would be appreciated.
Got the Soob back last night, finally. It was like waiting for the security blanket in the laundry
-juice
PS Is paisan out there? QSubaru is virtually giving away XT stuff. A set of wheel lip mouldings would set him back a whopping 5 bucks. A set of brand new, blue carpeted floor mats will set him back - call the accountant! - 5 buckaroos.
Frank P.
jurek
I may consider a roof rack for my car so I would appreciate it if you could share whatever you learn in your search. My best source of information in situations like yours is usually to spot a similar car with a rack and accost the owner!
As for the radio antenna: like you, I was under the impression that only the Ltd had the in-window antenna. However my 'standard' GT also has the in-window antenna (which provides acceptable reception btw).
Cheers,
WDB
I bought the unit from QSubaru for $15+change and used juice's instructions as a reference:
http://thejuiceman.homepage.com/cup.html
The tricky part, as juice points out, is getting that bottom-middle screw out. He wasn't kidding. The center console cover needs to be pryed away in order for you to be able to stick a screwdriver in and reach it. I didn't want to scratch the console cover, so in addition to juice's instructions, I also removed the entire console cover using these directions:
http://www.autotoys.com/New_Tech/Cust_Installs/DIN-size_radio_install_guide_f/body_din-size_radio_install_guide_f.htm
It looks like a lot of work, but the three covers come off rather easily. I highly recommend taking this extra step because scratching the plastic right under the cupholder is inevitable. By removing the console cover ahead of time, you only scratch the plastic where it won't be seen once you put it all back together.
I also found that after you remove the console cover, it exposes two screws at the very top corners. By removing these, I found that it allowed for more 'play' and made prying away the plastic below the cup holder a bit easier.
One piece of advice -- be extra careful when you're removing the bottom screw of the cupholder. It's real easy to loose it in the depths of the center console. I almost lost mine but luckily, it landed right on top of the HVAC unit where I could pick it up with a pair of pliers (whew!).
The new cupholder looks great! Although you loose the two-size adjustment of the old model, it's nice to have the extra carrying capacity. Plus, I think the dual cupholder is a little more sturdy.
Ken
Good hunting-
Lucien
Before After
Drew
Well that wasn't the reason why I wanted to post in the first place but I wanted to share it (I think I got a heck of a deal). I grew interested in a particular stick lever knob. I know that if it's not STi, it's not legit. But I personally liked it. Anyone ever heard of RAZO? It actually has the two dots on the "A" but I can't seem to do it on the post, it's pronounced Ray-zo. I was told it has a very high reputation in Japan for racing gear...
I couldn't resist so I also purchased the Carbon Fiber racing pedals, also RAZO. But not really for the looks but because I find my foot sometimes slipping off the pedals when I'm driving; and the guy was giving me a good deal, I thought...$100 for both things. Anybody know about this brand, or was the guys just trying to sell. I know it's not STi, but it doesn't mean I won't buy STi. I guess different is the key here.
http://www.rallispec.com or find them from our links page at www.subaruclub.com
traction tape on your pedals so that your foot
doesn't keep slipping off the pedals. This is also
a common problem with metal pedals, such as the
ones that the Mazda RX-7 has. It could be cause for concern if your foot (if wet from rain or snow) starts slipping off the brake pedal.
I've heard of Razo before, and yes, they are indeed quite popular in the Asian countries, though not as much as Momo.
Both Minnam and Rallispec have some cool stuff coming....turbos, new cams, exhausts. Subie power is growing.
As for me I'd refuse to lose the A/C power using that Unorthodox 'underdrive' design. I'd yank a pulley off a wrecked Subie and send it to Paeco with instructions to make an exact copy in aluminum. (They offer this service). Then you don't lose A/C and alternator power, and any hp loss is minimal as well, seeing as how they say maybe only 5-8 horses with a lighter pulley anyway. Here in SoCal, I'd rather have full A/C, plus knowing that the Alernator is getting full juice. IMHO.
BTW, did your wheels ever come?
-Lucien
The one that I found comes as a kit from Rimmer and the link is:
http://www.rimmersuperchargers.com/subaru.html
Under $5000 installed if I have a local guy (an acutal Subaru certified mechanic) do it with the additional fuel controller. It think the base kit was $3250 + shipping.
You guys probably already knew this but I thought I would post it anyway.
I think that this turned out to be a very useful modification. It significantly reduced body roll in turns and the latency between turning the steering wheel and when the Forester actually turns. I figure that I am good for at least an extra 10 kph (6 mph) of comfort level on twisty roads.
It had no observable effect on over or understeer the way I drive. In fact, my partner can't tell *any* kind of difference between before and after. I did a fair amount of driving on fairly good gravel roads, and it does not seem to have in any way degraded the Forester's ability to deal with bumps, etc.
I suspect on theoretical grounds that there might be some degradation of the vehicle's ability to deal with very large bumps and valleys encountered solely on the right or left side, but I have not yet had a chance to test this.
The 'modification' requires little effort: remove four bolts, take out the old bar, put in the new one (with new bushings), replace the four original bolts. It can be done without even jacking up the vehicle.
Norman
Where did you buy the sway bar? How much did you pay for it?
I'd be interested to hear about any other differences you might feel from the modification.
Ken
SPD Tuning Service, Inc.
2415 1/2 Voorhees Avenue
Redondo Beach CA 90278
web site: www.spdusa.com
e-mail: mshields@pacbell.net
Frank P.
Stephen
It's about the same price as the (usually) used 18mm bars SPD sells and is brand new.
-Colin
http://www.wave.net/diveguy/Dave/
http://www.wave.net/diveguy/Dave/Muffler/
I don't supose I could impose upon you to measure your mirror for me and post the height and width? For comparison purposes, the stock mirror is 2.5 by 8.5 inches.
Frank
Stephen
Speaking of prices, I helped Darlene put up a simple site with price lists, check it out. QSubaru finally has a web presense!
There are samples of prices for popular models, specials, and portions of the SPT catalog.
I worked a deal where she'll send me some free accessories, and I'll be her "guinea pig" test guy. That's good for everybody if you think about it. I'll post full details on my site for each accessory I get.
Now it's time to lobby SoA to add forced induction to the SPT catalog. PLEASE!
-juice
Is it installed under the driver or passenger seat?
Is it self powered, and share leads off the front r/l speakers?
I've got an aftermarket head unit, so I'm wondering if the Subaru sub will still work if I install it.
Thanks, ash
-Colin
As for its looks and function, Colin, your description sounds about right for the one in my '00 Legacy GT. It makes a significant difference, filling in the bottom very impressively and with sufficient subtlety for my admittedly non-audiophile tastes. It won't make the windows bulge out, but I don't need that! But then these comments come from a fellow who bought plastic-housed surround speakers for his home video rig after listening to many brands and styles and comparing many prices. They were hands down the best value for the money; kind of like my Subaru ;-)
Cheers,
WDB