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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions
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Last September, I had to replace my 3.5L engine in my '99 Intrigue GLS. The dealer told me the rods were spun and could go at any time. I don't doubt this as the engine was making a horrific noise. So I replaced the engine, at 49K miles and was lucky enough to have GM pay for half of the repairs as I had a record of all of my oil changes and those of the previous owner.
My question is this. Since the engine was replaced, the drivers side vents have blown air that is never as cold as that which is coming out of the passenger side vents. Even with the passenger climate control turned to the middle, the air is still colder on the passenger side. Is it possible that there would be an air hose that was not put in the correct place when the engine was replaced? Any assistance would be welcomed.
Verify that your lug nuts are torqued to 100 lbft. New wheels may be causing rotor to rattle?
Remove the wheel and try to detemine what is rattling; pads in caliper, caliper on bracket, bracket to steering knuckle. Or linkages tie rods etc, bushings etc.
Gm revised the torque specs on the caliper mounting bracket bolts to 133 lbft. to keep it from slipping and clunking when braking.
Kinda vague, but hard to tell without some inspection. Is it coming from both sides?
If you have your old skins and wheels you can put them back on for a short trip to rule out the new ones.
cheers
As far as I know there is no recall on this part.
Vehicle was bought new, no problems to-date, oil & filter change every 4 months using Mobil 1 synthetic. Has 58.000 km (under 36,000 miles) so warranty is close to expiry. Have since parked the vehicle (owner's manual says if drive it and causes engine damage, warranty may be void).
Has anyone experienced this before and if so what was the cause? Oil level is fine and no apparent oil leaks. Could be oil pressure problem (oil pump)?
Any help is appreciated...
1.change oil >oil life monitor
2.low oil> there is a sensor in the bottom of the oil pan that checks for low oil. You could have a damaged wire or corroded terminal or a defective switch.
The IPC(instrament panel cluster) illuminates the LOW OIL indicator when the powertrain control module (PCM) detects low engine oil level, and the signal circuit is high. The PCM only monitors the signal circuit of the engine oil level switch for a brief period when the key moves from ON to START. The IPC receives a class 2 message requesting illumination via from the PCM.
3. oil pressure > oil can. This switch is located just under the end of the rear head toward the serp. belt.
The IPC illuminates the LOW OIL PRESSURE indicator in the when the powertrain control module (PCM) detects low engine oil pressure, and the signal circuit is low. The IPC receives a class 2 requesting illumination message from the PCM.
Since it is on all the time I presume it is the oil pressure switch, pump, seals, pressure regulater, wear, plugged filter, faulty filter bypass etc. or could be bad wiring, PCM module or the cluster itself. Hmmm, do you have all your receipts for your oil changes? Do you have access to an oil pressure guage to verify if you got the right pressure. If so then it is electrical.
Since your still under warranty till 60k, you have lucked out and get her towed in. Run don't walk. Call your dealer and tell them which light it is and they will probably advise you on what to do.
Let us know what it is and how GM deals with you.
Towed '02 Intrigue to GM dealer and diagnosis was a faulty oil pressure switch - replaced under warranty. Oil warning light no longer on (good!).
While vehicle was in for service, noticed on the service work order that they also replaced the crankshaft sensor (code P0385). Maybe they just automatically do this on Intrigues as they come in for service? Interesting as I did not have any driveability problems which could be caused by faulty crankshaft sensor.
The crankshaft code was probably set at some time and they took advantage of the work under waaranty. Very nice of them, probably saved you many $$ down the road. Needs a scan tool to to set the crankshaft position learning procedure.
Did you ever have a hard start? Or have it stall for no reason? That is normally the first indication that the sensor is on the way out.
Glad to hear the feedback.
cheers.
There is a relay and a 10 amp fuse feding the relay contacts in the underhood junction box on the right strut tower.
There is also a fuse in the instrament panel for park lights and fog lights. Probably feeding the coils of the relay
The circuit is like this . You push the fog light button and a signal is sent to the BCM and it then grounds the coil of the fog lamp relay to energize it.
The power feeds through the fuse and the closed contact in the relay to deliver 12 volts to the lamps which have the other side grounded.
If the bulbs and fuses are Ok, you can try and swap the relay with something like the horn relay if they have the same markings. Sometimes the contact is dirty and tapping it will cause it momentary closure.
good luck
The funny weird noises are probably the intermediate steering column spline clunking. There is a lube procedure that gm will charge you for. Others have had varying success with their own remidies.
According to GM, this is normal maintenance like changing oil and brakes. Yeah right, when was the last time you ever had a car that needed steering column lube as regular maintenance.
cheers
I would like to sort this puppy out b4 dad asks me to sell it, however I would not want to sell this to a friend, or to anyone who knows where I live, for that matter...
Thanks again....
Seat Right Rear Split Back, Folding. Not sure, but the description sounds like only the right side folds down????
When I got a 2001 I remember that the 2000 GX on the floor did not have the folding seat option but was available in a package of other stuff on the 2001.
If you have the code then there are two ways, on the 2001 anyways.
1. There are pull handles inside the trunk, one for each side, way back near the seat. They are like a black nylon string and they hang down about 4 inches. You have to have arms about 4 feet long to reach them. hehe Unless your inside the truck, they are pretty useless.
2. Open the rear door. about 5-6 inches down from the top of the seat there is a loop to pull on.
This loop is made of the same fabric as the seat and is usually tucked away inside the crease where the seat would fold down from. You may have to dig into the crease to find the loop. When you do, just tug on it about a half inch or so and the lock will release and the seat can be pulled down.
good luck
Far out...
thanks!
TIA
I looked at mine and at first could not find the AM9 code. After shakin my head, it was there just before AR9, 3rd and 4th in the first row.
Can't see the forest for the trees. hehe.
Buckwalter. All of those lights are tied together. I had mine do something similar but it was always cold and when the car was angled slightly downhill on ice/snow. After starting, the light show came on. Shutting off and restarting puts things right. Happened a couple times, mentioned to dealer and of coarse no codes. Has not appeared in a couple years.
Why do you have the tire pressure cranked up to 35. It is listed as 31 for my 2001 with 22560R16's and must make for an awful rough ride.
The abs sensors are used to determine tire rotation, pcs monitors rotation with speed. Not sure if the computer would get stupid or not over time. I know that the tire guys i deal with do not want to fiddle with different size tires than spec, because it sometime causes the tranny/computers to get stupid and light up dash lights.
If you can get the codes read?
cheers
The handles are attached to a T type hook at the end of a steel cable that is inside a black sleeve. Like a mini E brake cable the size you would see on a bicycle.
The cable sleeves are routed to the latches. The driver side goes up over the top and down around to the latch and the passenger side goes up and over to its latch. The cable enter on the left side of the latchs. Left if your sitting facing forward, right if your looking at the latch. The cable sleeve has barbed platstic pins that push into a hole that hold it rigid into the panel in a couple places along the way. At least one just after it slips under the panel.
If you have a black handle with an attached steel cable then I suspect that the hook at the latch end is broken. If you have the black handle with the attached steel cable and the black sleeve with a hook at the other end of the steel cable then the whole thing has become dislodged from the latch.
The strange thing is that the cable holder at the latch is plastic/of coarse and is formed into the steel latch bracket. You may be able to drill out the 3 plastic rivets and replace them with a screw and nut affair. How it is hooked into the sealed latch, I'm not sure.
cheers
TIA
Sounds like you need someone with a 2000. sorry.
I went to 35 lb. tire pressure for a couple of reasons: to offset existing low pressure tire wear (accelerated outside edge wear) and improve cornering and mileage. Will deflate to spec for winter driving. It does stiffen the ride, but worth the trade off for now. Got 32 mpg @ 85 - 90 mph going across Texas, NM and AZ in April 04!
My 2000 GL had trunk mounted rear seat release straps as described by Moonshadow (#289). Like Moonshadow's, mine were hanging by the cables, apparently knocked from it's mount by stuffing something in the trunk. I got in there and looked at it. Two clips on the plastic bracket inclined me to install the bracket via the clips on a convenient edge of the frame under the package tray. After installation it worked fine, but does hang down enough to catch on anything large enough to push the clips off thier mount while being shoved into the trunk. There is not enough slack in the linkage for it to go anywhere else, so that must be it. If it drops off again, I will get in there with some tie-wraps and make it fast.
But, yeah, I also inflate it to 32PSI to account for eventual leaks until the next inflation. After all, a low tire can overheat and explode (remember Explorer and Firestone?).
But, 35PSI? You're probably getting uneven wear in the middle of the tires...
Here's the service/repair history so far:
I had a new battery put in when it was 18 months (30,000 miles) old - the cables had corroded off!
New steering column part (don't remember what it was called but I can find the paperwork if that's of interest to anyone), front struts - (somthing like that) - covered by warranty at 50,000 but I think I may have done some damage driving high speed on a rough road a few months earlier.
That's all - besides routine oil changes, etc.
It's a great car, looks good, handles well, very roomy, got 30 mpg last summer driving with the A/C on and 70 mph across mountains, desert, etc.
I usually buy a new car when the service visits start to become too frequent, but I'm hoping this one will last me a couple more years like my old Toyota Camry V-6 did. (I like this much better than the Camry, but the Toyota was definitely better quality - held up great up to 115,000 miles.)
The sloppy starts makes me think spark plugs need inspection. If they look good, then plug wires.
One minor problem my car had was a sticking throttle, causing abrupt step off from idle. I traced that to a build up of something in the throttle valve that was causing the throttle plate to stick closed. That is a quick fix with some spray carb cleaner directly on the throttle plate part of the throttle body & a wipe with a clean rag. You have to open it up to get in there.
If you have not done so, seek the opportunity to take the car for a high speed ride to insure all is in balance. That is a good way to test a bunch of stuff from unbalanced wheels and drive line components to broken motor mounts.
Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd potentially expensive repair required on this car that IMO should not happen on a 4-yr-old car with low miles. A few months ago, I had a "wheel sensor" failure that turned out to require the replacement of one of the rear hub assemblies, to the tune of a $450 part! Fortunately the dealer went out of his way to cover part of it and we split the cost.
Sorry to hear about your rack and pinion problems. I have a '98 which I bought in August '98. No steering problems other than the lube which was done some years ago now. I was not aware of a recall but really have no complaints about the steering at the present time.
1) Ignition could be wearing down.
2) Steering sensor could be bad. When I make a turn it is not sending the right message to the computer.
3) could be me bumping the keys and accidiently turning it off
Number 3 is not far fetched. I do have the seat up more then normal since my son likes to kick the back of my seat. I did notice I was hititng the keys more then usual.
Has anyonen else had this problem? I have not had a problem with starting the vehicle or stalling before this. And I have been getting great gas mileage lately (slightly over 30 mpg on the highway my last two trips). Any help is appreciated.
It has only happened when making turns. Twice to the left and once to the right from a stop. I have done the same turns about half dozen times and no re-creation. I haven't noticed if it had a full tank or not. And the air conditioner was on.
I've been keeping an eye on the situation but haven't had it happen since the last instance. Next time it happens (hopefully it won't) I'll make note of the exact situation.
Car would stall out at stop light on when slowing down to making a turn. Trouble was cranking sensor.
Trouble would occur within 20 mins of starting vehicle.
Does anyone know of a solution? Thanks.