Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Steve
How do you find the invoice price of a car. Sticker on car has only MSRP and Hyundai website gives the MSRP.
What is the thread # where you have described the process ?
Thanks
Sanket
Looking forward to hear from others. TIA.
By "get a quote" I meant find out what they will sell the car for. If you want to tell them what your price is, and see if they'll meet it, fine. But I always like the dealer to give me THEIR best price (which may or may not be their "real" best price) before I tell them what price I think is acceptable. What happens if they would in fact go LOWER than the price I give them? Do you think they'll offer a lower price to me out of the kindness of their hearts? I don't think so.
Once you give the dealership the price you are shooting for, you are doomed to get the car for no lower than that price. If that's OK with you, great.
Here are the details :
Lease for 36 months / 208 +10 (tax)=218$/month
200 $ down-payment for the first month.
Residual =61%
Price to buy after the lease –14,142
GLS + Popular Equipment Package (Ruby color – my wife wanted it)
Carpeted Floor Mats
Cargo Mat
Cargo net
Remote Start
Rear Bumper Protector
Wheel Locks
I will get the car tomorrow (as the car he has didn’t have remote start), as they need to get the vehicle.
Thank you everyone, this forum is really helpful. First I leased my Sienna and now Sonata.
Thanks
San
Steve
Enjoy the car.
Out of the gate, probably not. In the end? Maybe. I have had and heard of amazing deals offered under special circumstances, e.g. dealer needs a couple sales to qualify for a special manufacturer incentive. Those are things you and I never hear about, and getting them involves some luck and also some skill.
If you give the dealer your target price at the start of negotiations, which is invoice less holdback less all known incentives, that's the best you will ever do. And not a bad deal at all, if you can get it. But maybe not the best deal... because you'll never know how far the dealer was willing to go below that.
Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. It always works. I also make sure I never take the deal that the sales rep gives me. No matter what it is. I always make sure I price low enough such that the sales rep needs to get his/her manager or general manager involved. That is because sales rep are allowed to go so far.
I have always make sure that management gets involved. And another thing. If the sales rep ever did accept my offer on the spot without having to get management involved (which has never happened by the way), but if it did happen, I would walk. Because I would know that I should have made a lower quote. As I said that has never happened.
I also make it a point to challenge doc fees; to either get them removed or to lower the agreed-upon price even further such that the doc fee is eliminated or, at worst, reduced. That, again, has always worked.
This is not without some pain and whining on the part of the sales rep about costs of staying in business, etc. All BS.
At the end of the day they won't make the deal unless they at least make something. I just make sure that its as low as possible.
I bought 3 cars (for myself and family and friends) since July, of various makes and this always works.
Good luck.
Steve
with PEP +
Auto Dimming RearView Mirror with HomeLink and Compass
Carpeted Floor mats
Cargo Mat
Cargo Net
Rear Bumper Protector
Wheel Locks
MSRP with add ons + dest -> 23,090
Invoice for above -> 22,045
Hyundai Financing rebate -> -1500
Competitive Owner rebate-> -500
Dealer Discount (holdbacks etc.) ->-1445
Total -> 18600
OTD -After taxes and fees 20,045
Steve, Michelle, Brian, Sanket, UnivRebel and others - Thanks for providing valuable data from our posts.
I see. So you are fine in using deceptive buying practices. You make an offer, it is accepted, then you retract the offer and leave. Sorry, you just lost me there. Good luck to you.
btw, there's a chain of dealerships (including a Hyundai store) in my area where management NEVER gets involved in a deal. The sales people have total responsibility for each transaction, from working with the customer on which vehicle (and they can sell a vehicle from any of the chain's many stores, from many makes), agreeing to a price, arranging for financing, and discussing add-ons like extended warranties. You only see one person for the entire transaction. So if you are looking to always have an offer taken to management, you may have to strike some dealerships off your list.
I also do my research. There is one dealer in my area where the is no negotiating. The prices are clearly displayed. I have a strategy for dealing with such dealers. I don't shop there, period. I would also not shop at a dealer as you mention where management is not allowed to get involved. Its as simple as that.
I haven't met anyone yet who gets a better deal on a car than I can. I help others to do the same and to be respectful.
Steve
I haven't closed my deal yet. Hopefully, I will do it by Jan 2.
I got an estimate for extended warranty (Warranty Direct) for 10 years/100,000 miles for $990 ($100 ded/visit). I am not sure whether it is worth getting this one or not ? I haven't obtained a decent number of comments here. I am still researching about it elsewhere.
I ought mine at Freeman Irving after Van Hyundai dealer did not agree on lowering price.
Van Hyundai wanted me to pay 20k before taxes.
I settled on 19k before taxes with Freeman.
OTD is about 20300.
i'll be using them next time i buy a hyundai and i have bought three at a dealership in mass. and i intend to use salems price when i negotiate with the mass dealer for my next purchase. and their "price in salem usually does not include the incentives.
salem new hamp. is only 25 miles from me.
check it out.
Where did you get in SFLA?
Did you purchase? Lease?
I've been looking and want to get one today..last day of rebates..but no deals as good as yours.
Happy New Year.
and remember that was after they took the $2,000 off in rebates. i love the car it drives so great and looks beautiful in white with the all black leather interior
good luck oh and yes we bought it!
But as luck would have it, a 2012 Red (Sparkling Ruby, I think) Turbo SE was sitting on the showroom floor as I was in for routine service 18 months following my purchase. I drove IT home that very day!
I live in the Nashville, TN area and did not see another red one on the road for forever, but occasionally do now. I still am yet to see another red Turbo. Trust me, save up for a red... and spend the extra on the Turbo!
Can you say ZOOOOOOM and BIG FUN to drive?? Love mine well enough to pay the 3 years without changing again... LOL
I am happy you like your car!
Did you go through internet sales?
Anyone you recommend to deal with?
I actually just purchased the Sonata Limited 2.0t for $23,100 with Navigation and everything. I am from PA and tags and taxes were included.
I've been shopping around for a Camry here in LI, New York. I got an OTD price of 2013 Camry SE with Sunroof and Nav, no leather or other options whatsoever. I was upset of how the dealership handled the price because they first offered 25K, then the 'manager' said no, and asked for 25800, we said ok. Then the manager said no to OUR 'ok' and said, ' you know what, we'll give it to you for 26200. We walked out and my father almost berated and cursed out the manager.
Btw, Taxes in NY is 8.8 percent.
I've always wanted a Sonata and I've convinced my father that the Sonata is a very good car. I'm interested in the Sonata SE and/or Limited with Nav. I'd prefer the Limited because it HAS rear heated seats! My goodness, am I right or am I wrong?! Anyways, I see that some folks have been achieving an OTD price for the 2013 Limited with Nav for 26K. Is that what I should be aiming for?
As for the SE, should I suggest 24K OTD?
I intend to put 8 to 10K down cash and the rest finance over 60 months.
Are you the buyer who bought the blue one parked right in front as a display car?
I bought mine on Saturday, Dec 22.
Thanks,
Derek
MSRP: 27,515 (invoice $26,085)= NAV, Carpet floor mats, Cargo Mat, Cargo Net, Mirror w/homelink. (salesman added window etching/Ipod cord- tried to get window tint but the dealership didn't do window tinting)
Dealer added "value": $1095 (my est. invoice & $572) Accent package? Paint/fabric protector/splash guards.***words of advice, shopping on websites do not prepare you for the actual dealer added items that you have no idea about until you see the car. The first place I went to, had $1,700 worth of extras. These can catch you off guard as you don't really know how to properly negotiate them. I was thrown off, as $27,515 MSRP was my price I was working with and getting in my head before I went to the dealership. I also went on Fitzmall and found the exact same car(diff color) with options for $27,515 MSRP and printed out the sheet and had it with me. The lowest price on Fitzmall was $23,300 and this included all the current rebates.**** This was the best # I saw in all my research and crunching the invoice/incentive numbers myself.
Total MSRP of my car @ dealership was $28,606(Invoice~$26,675)
Final car price $25,657 - $1,500 - $500 = $23,657. Almost 5k below MSRP.
Add 8.5% tax + $232 doc fee (didn't bother to negotiate any more at such a small cost) total out the door was $25899. I shot the dealer a really low OTD price of $25000 & then $25,500 but he complained about losing $$ on the deal. I had no real bargaining power with no trade in and not putting any money down.
At the end of the day, I paid just $1018 below invoice without any incentives or $3,000 with them all. I think in the south some of the incentives have expired. I actually gave up the $1,500 in Hyundai incentives to get the 0% for 60months, which saves me ~ $400 over the life of the loan.
MSRP $26, 995
Invoice$25,515
Car Price $23,299
Doc Fee $249
Rebates $2,000
Tags$300
Tax (7%)
OTD $23,478
1.9 % 48 months through HMF
Way to get it down is to go in to a dealership, talk to them and make sure they know you are interested in purchasing a car within next few weeks.
Next, no matter what, you need to do is let the dealership know you will be going to another Hyundai dealership and get another quote. If you need to, tell the next place your going too that the other place offered you a deal $200-$300 less then the actual offer. Getting a good deal is all about bluffing. Regardless, you can always come back to the previous deal offered. Remember, dealerships do not want to lose to competition. Getting a good deal is all about bluffing in the right manner and have enough self control to leave. Also, I do not believe you will be able to get an extra upgrade for that price since the invoice was like 25,200 and I got it for 23,150. Maybe you can then, I did not want to go to each dealership more then twice.
What was the price before tax and tags? Your numbers don't add up. What discounts (loyalty, military, etc.) did you have? Was 27700 the window sticker or a BS dealer pack sticker? In a previous post, your numbers were 1600 trade + 2000 down + 72 payments of 307...
In early December, I was looking only at 2013 Sonata GLS only. I was able to get an offer lower than $18,750 before TTL but the travel cost to get the car significantly nullified the difference. However, after seeing the IIHS 2013 safety tests (Dec 20, 2012), I am kind of worried about Sonata 2013. It got only Top Safety Pick and not Top Safety Pick Plus. In the small overlap test, it's scores were lower than Accord 2013. The most worrying thing is the fact that side curtain air bags did not open.
It appears that Honda engineers (Nissan engineers for their Altima 2013 and others) knew about the new test and modified their 2013 design accordingly. However, in the case of Sonata 2013, it is primarily based on 2011 design and hence, it missed the mark. The Sonata may score better in their next model (2014 design). I am surprised to see Optima 2013 based on late 2011 design getting Top Safety Pick Plus (and not Sonata). However, Optima has a slightly lower score than Accord 2013. The significant difference is the fact that it's side curtain bags opened unlike Sonata. BTW: Camry 2013 has the worst IIHS ratings compared to these three cars.
However, in the case of NHTSA tests, Accord 2013 and Sonata 2013 are very similar.
It appears that some are getting 2013 Accord LX (Auto) between $21,000 and $22,000 OTD (in various states with tax ranging from 6 to 9%). The offer that I have on a 2013 Sonata GLS with PEP is about $19,900 OTD (after 6% tax). I am planning to keep the car for a long time.
2013 Accord LX Advantages ($21,000 and $22,000 OTD in various states with tax ranging from 6 to 9%):
1. Better engine. Honda engines are known for their reliability. But, what about CVT ?
2. Better gas mileage - 27/36 vs 24/35 (If I keep the car for about 10 years, then I could save about $2000 !)
3. Better safety (IIHS 2013 Top Safety Pick Plus)
4. Better resale value (It may not affect me, since, I am planning to keep it for a long time)
5. Rear view camera
6. Hill Assist
2013 Sonata GLS with PEP Advantages ($19,900 OTD after 6% tax):
1. Longer warranty
2. Better style
3. Fog lights
4. Heated front seats
5. Heated side mirrors
6. Power seat with lumbar support
7. Auto dimming mirror
8. 6 speakers vs 4 speakers
9. Garage door opener (Home Link auto dimming mirror)
10. Lower price (about $1000 - $2000).
11. Front legroom is 45.5 in vs 42.5 in and headroom is 40 in vs 39.1 in (I am 6 ft 4 in and hence Sonata would be better)
12. Additional accessories (all-weather mats, cargo net, rear bumper protector, and wheel locks)
13. 8 air bags vs 6 air bags - NEED TO BE VERIFIED (Can someone confirm this ?)
Accord's better gas mileage could nullify the price difference, if I keep the car for a long time, provided Accord's shorter warranty will not give me huge repair bills. I don't mind loosing some features and style for improved safety ratings. If I haven't come across IIHS 2013 tests, I would have bought Sonata 2013 without any second thought. Am I giving too much importance to the IIHS 2013 test results ?
Any comments. Thanks in advance.
great write-up! Not to add more work to your endeavor BUT the 2013 Optima LX can be had with the Convenience PLUS package ($1100) that includes a rear camera, upgraded mirror, power driver seat and the Microsoft UVO audio system. Total MSRP for that model is 23.3k
"COP - LX Convenience Plus Package - $1,100
Includes Power Adjustable Driver's Seat, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror w/Homelink & Compass Also Includes Radio: UVO Infotainment System w/Rr Camera Display."
sample:
http://kefferkia.net/2013-Kia-Optima-LX-Charlotte-NC/vd/13025853
A vehicle that came out all-new in 2011 might not have had the time to undergo any changes, as its design was locked into place years ago. But a new car only takes three years to reach the market. There’s really no excuse for any of them to perform too poorly, even if it is an all-new test.
View & Read: http://blogs.automotive.com/iihs-gives-2013-honda-accord-best-rating-in-new-cras- h-test-ratings-122825.html#ixzz2HnJWFk8R
Tech Pkg.
Nav.
Carpeted mats, cargo mat, net, mud guards
MSRP $29,880
Rebate -$1,500
Financing -$1,000
Conquest -$500
No trade
Dealer discount -$1,968
Purchased for $24,912
Add local tax plus $225 fees/tag transfer
My son is interested in the se 2.0 and when I figure out the whole deal with what Steve writes, it comes to about 21800 without tax and title. (He wants spoiler and mud guards). If I add in tax and title, it comes to more than what you paid for a limited. We are from long island, but would be willing to travel for a price that good. If he could get the limited for that price, he would be extremely happy. Thanks for your help.
Maureen
Don't believe everything you see on these forums. That deal is not possible unless it's a demo with tons of miles on it. His numbers don't add up and he hasn't responded to my inquiry either.