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CAROLYN
Go to the Cadillac Catera Maintenance and Repair section of this form (calicago, "Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair" #694, 4 Aug 2008 3:02 pm) and read post 707, easysell said he found a site which haves them on line mabye post there Im sure someone will help all pretty good folks here
GUESS I WILL HAVE TO LOOK FOR ANOTHER WAY.
I run the hoses in the in correct place. will same one inform me
how to run the hoses back in the correct place.
I help with the following heat hose runs ( from the top of the radiator to the elect or aux water pump.Water is spraying out of the radiator's storage tank with the cap off
I need a pictures of the top engine radiator hoses "Please"
Please forward to: narvin.tunstall@usmc.mil
God Bless
Thank
Car runs fine until running temperature is reached, 10-15 miles.
Your input would be appreciated.
Also is there suppose to be a light at the ignition to assist placement of the key when starting? If so mine dosen't work either.
Thank you
That's because you can find differents kinds of materials, like metallics, semi-metallics, titanium, ceramics, Posi-Quiet Extended Wear Brake Pads with Shims - ?.
So, maybe there are more materials, and that's my problem, what is the correct one for my cadi.
Thanks in advance,
Unfortunately the Catera has wires instead of squeelers to warn you of low pads. I just cut off the wire at the teflon/plastic and twisted them together. They are way too expensive.
Our son is an engineer. He looked at the car, and decided that there was no good way to fix it without replacing the lock mechanism (which, with towing to the dealer, parts, and labor, would have run over $1,000).
Our solution was to drill out the screws holding the ignition lock in place, and to install a simple "on-off" (flip) switch for the ignition (like a light switch) and a "push-button" switch for the starter. If someone gets into the car (by picking the lock or breaking a window), the only thing that keeps them from starting the car is that you need to hold the original key (which has a chip in in) close to the steering wheel or the system shuts down. It's not a pretty solution, but it lets us drive the car and saved a ton of money.
posted before and am an owner of a 97 Cat with 165k miles on the odometer. I had the " rear " air ride shocks replaced in June of this yr. the factory units literally rotted into oblivion. My idiot light was on/off for well over a year. You are correct, do not load the trunk and drive over rough terrain. The IRS ( independent rear suspension ) could become damaged. Suggestions: make sure the leveling switch is operating correctly.
If you have over 80-90k miles, replace the air ride shocks. No questions asked. Look for a reputable brand, the one starting with "M" is barely above factory quality. Go with the Japanese or German brand. approx. $150 each. ( only the rear are involved). As I mentioned I replaced the 2 units at 160k and the steering feel improved, handling in general and I get better fuel mileage. Why,..? the vehicle has returned to the proper rake angle in meeting the wind. You can hear the air pump run then stop after the switch determines proper ride height/load for the car. My new dilema was a steering box that began leaking profusely. They are not serviceable and require a good used unit in it's place, very labor intensive. Some estimates indicate that up to 80 % of vehicles on the road have substandard suspensions on them. Don't let yours be one of them. (see link )
http://www.motorist.org/news/consnews/BatteriesRideControlUICSMy6.pdf
ran fine today then I went to leave again, same problem, after 10 tires I gave up and drove the other car..
if you have anyinfo I would appreciate it..
I have seen alternator, battery, coils and cam or crank sensor as possibles..
thanks for your time.
Thanks
LUDDYBRIAN...