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All shop manuals warn strongly about NEVER putting anything but brake fluid into the brake system.
Any kind of 'hydrocarbon' liquid will usually eat up the seals and cause leaks and loss of pressure. And power steering fluid is usually a type of transmission or hydrolic fluid and I would think it qualifies as a 'hydrocarbon'.
If the brake system on this car has actually been mis-filled, in my opinion, fixing this is a job for a professional.
And I would expect a complete over-haul of the master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders or calipers. An expensive job.
But I don't know if I would ever trust the brake system on that car.
I need to get some new pads soon.
When you install quite stop on your customers cars, you use raybestos rotors or utileze whatever the car has at that time?
What do you recommed for 2000 Taurus. I was thinking something from Raybestos too?
Thanks
Your best bet would be to browse their website and compare the products:
http://www.raybestos.com/products.htm
The car stops, but the grinding sounds horrible!
Grinding and squealing are two different things. the last car I replaced brakes on that was GRINDing, well, I had to put on new rotors. Check eet ooout!
I'm therefore looking at opening the wheel bearings when changing the rotors, which is not a big deal by itself, but I believe that I will have to replace the wheel bearings, as their races are installed in the rotor/hub.
Does anybody have any suggestions on where to get the new races installed into the new rotors ? Machine shops should do it, or who else would be a good candidate ?
Sorry to bug you, but my manual is awfully mum about the races.
Did you replace the bearing ? I'm not sure about the the expected lifetime, but since I have to open and repack it anyhow, would 50K miles be a good point to replace it ? Can you even use an existing bearing on new races, or should they always be replaced together ? (I know not to install a new bearing on old races, but I'm unsure about the opposite.)
Thanks for your response...
I have rear brakes that squeal whenever I brake. These are fairly new pads with new rotors. Is there anything i can do to reduce brake squeal?
it is rather obvious that you don't want to be spraying a nice, thick coat of hi-temp lube on the friction surface of the brake pads.
or maybe it isn't rather obvious... but a nice way to gum up the rotor and pads, perhaps cause delamination of the resin holding the friction stuff together, and certainly your braking power is gone with sloppy oil gobs riding against the rotors.
water, maybe, but it's cheaper to hit a puddle in the road, and they're always in stock
get a wiring diagram for the car, even a haynes/chilton book has enough of one to be useful if you don't want to buy the official one from www.helm.com. someplace under a piece of tape in a harness somewhere, there will be a power diode coming off the brake wire that has another little wire on the other side. it will be in the circuit to the high-mount light in the back window if you have one. that diode is an isolator to keep any feedback voltage from the shift interlock system out of the brake light system.
and if that is shorted or missing, guess what -- you have a sneak path for current. one more possible fault.
the diode can probably be replaced with any 200 PIV 4 AMP general purpose diode or better.
but the most likely reason for the wire damage is overcurrent, probably corrosion on a light socket is causing some amps to run to ground past the bulb all the time. it SHOULD have blown the fuse, so double-check that some character didn't put a 30-amp no-blow in there where you should have maybe an 8 or 10 amp fuse.
could also be a dead relay or rot in the relay panel under the hood if you used relays in that car, but my bet is it's pure old green wire and white/rust/green light sockets that hold the bulb so tight with corrosion that the glass breaks when you try and remove the bulb (wear gloves.)
Interestingly the brakes feel softer than they did on the worn pads. And when I try to lay rubber on the road, it just doesn't happen. Now they stop wonderfully. If I use the hand brake on the Subaru the rear brakes stop quicker than a Mazda that just recently passed inspection. When I took it back to the repair shop they said the brakes were as tight as they could be. The drums were turned.
On the Dodge, new rotars were also installed with the front disk brakes. At 170K, I can't really complain. I slam the brakes and there is no skid. No rubber on the road either. However they seem to stop really well as I found out on a freeway where another car was at a dead stop.
I do not have antilock brakes.
Are my vehicles safe?
The Cynics were brilliant people... <:o[
At 400 miles my son-in-law noticed ridges forming on the back rotors and suggested the pattern looked like a problem in the making. So at 1400 miles the condition clearly had not improved and both of the rotors on the rear had numerous ridges formed across the surface.
The dealer did an inspection with the wheels off and decided that the rotors and pads should be replaced. They performed this change out at 1700 miles claiming they were unfamiliar with this condition(problem?).
Now at 3000 miles the left rear rotor has formed numerous ridges again but the right rear rotor is smooth except for one small ridge that has formed.
I asked the dealer about it and he said he would like to wait a couple of thousand miles and then take another look at it.
The front rotors appear to have a very smooth surface all along.
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to what could be the cause of these ridges? Are they anything to worry about? Is this something I should write Toyota about? Is the dealer giving me the runaround until this just becomes a wear and tear item and totally my responsibility?
OK, enough nagging questions ... any ideas?
-Andrew L
I suspected the service shop considered the parking brake to be part of the problem since they left it so loosely set. i.e. the brakes didn't engage until the lever was at the end of the stop. This was the way the shop had left the adjustment after they had replaced the rotors and the pads.
I didn't take it back for adjustment for almost 1300 miles later(two weeks ago). By this time it was obvious that one of the rotors was now wearing unevenly while the other one was wearing smoothly.
This next week I'm going to look up the replacement procedure for rear disc brakes in ALL Data if the new CD sets are in. I don't know how to tell if these brakes are fully released or if they are adjusted properly but perhaps this will give me some insight. I can't tell if there is a problem by the way it handles or drives.
Can you tell if the calipers are fully releasing by a simple visual inspection?
The truck in braking great, no brake fade, no pulsation, and I was happy about the whole affair.
I then noticed an unusual amount of breakdust on my front wheels. I jacked up the truck again, and noticed that at pads are lightly touching the disk. The wheel almost spins freely, but not quite.
I took my dial indicator, measured the run-out and was within specs for the mounted rotor.
Would you consider this a normal part of the break-in process, or is this a sign that I'm dealing with something more serious ? Any suggestions of what I could check next ?
I usually had dusty front wheels and hot rotors on my German vehicles, but I've always attributed that to my driving and the softer pads.
http://www.raybestos.com/brutestop.htm
I think I recall all the current Raybestos pad and lining materials described there.
I have a box of similar materials, right down to the pads, waiting for my stainless braided brake hoses before installation on my SVT Contour.
This will be my third set of KVR pads and rotors. Even my 87 LeSabre had a set.
Did you get the cadmium plating. I've found that even the non-wear areas of these rotors are prone to rust, so I popped for the extra $$$$ to plate the rotors. Of course I know it will wear off the friction surface, but will make the remainder of the rotor stay sharp looking.
I'll post some pictures of my box contents.
TB
Now, I'm no expert but I've had 4 other new cars in my lifetime and driven them pretty hard and have never had any problem like this (other cars had b/t 60-90K miles on them when I sold them). Sounds to me like the problem is being caused by some other factor - over tightening of the wheel lugs, defective rotor, etc. Any ideas?
http://www.bendixbrakes.com
http://www.raybestos.com
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR INFO.
HERE'S OUR EMAIL cmr22001@optonline.net
In general, some drag is normal.
a) Every rotor is minimally warped, pushing the pads further away from the rotor under normal driving condition, but not necessarily when rotating by hand.
b) The airflow on the surface of the rotor itself will separate the pads from the rotor even more.
From my experience, it is okay if some contact it being made. But I've always been able to spin the rotor by hand.
...
Saw that your question has been answered in another forum...nevermind. (You didn't write about the vibration here. )
still have brakes.
"sin frenos" signs are not acceptable around these parts, if you are forced to emergency-stop with the parking brakes, leave the car parked and have it towed for repair.
ABS failure is most often, so these boards report, either the control module, wheel sensors, or dump/interrupt valve. all repairable, most not as cheaply as a hose rubbed raw.