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Anyway, the rear AC kept mom and kids cooled down, the motor and trans worked very smoothly, the self-leveling suspension kept it from sagging under the heavy load. After we got up to a about Lufkin TX (don't ask how long this took) we found a Walmart that was open and I bought three toys for the van - a 115 volt AC inverter for running my daughter's nebulizer to control her cough, a Sirus sat radio receiver kit and a DVD player with two screens that strap to the headrests for the kids entertainment and our sanity. The '98's did not have a DVD option FYI, but this whole deal was less than $200 and is removeable to work in other cars.
The many devices were powered by the rear and dual front power jacks, and when my daughter was using the DVD I could turn in the SAT radio and listen with headphones plugged into the rear system.
We ended up in what was apparently the last motel room in AR after nearly two days in the van. A hot shower never felt so good in my life, I kept washing to make sure I was getting the sweat and dirt off! The next morning, the storm was predicted to come up there and drop 20"+ of rain and flood out the town, so we vacated to a friend's family in MO. Luckily, there was not any traffic at this point.
On the way home after Rita had taken her northernly jog away from us, I eased the van into a steady 65-70 on the hilly roads and after 200 miles was averaging 27.2 MPG, running the AC and with all 5 of us aboard, a bike rack on the back and duffel bags on the roof! Now granted I'm running a THULE front rack bar and air deflector which I think helps with drag on roof items, but that is amazing milage. We got on some faster roads (75-80 mph) and my wife who is more of a lead foot drove and when we got home we checked the computer said we averaged 25.5 mpg. The van never missed a beat and was abused / driven over 1000 miles on this trip. I am also on about 5k since the last oil change of walmart synthetic and it doesn't even use oil.
While its not perfect, we were happy to have the van to evacuate in.
Dirk in Houston
I have a 2000 Montana and for the first time, I can't reset the "Change engine oil" warning.
I used to do it all the time on first try for the past 3 years of ownership (ie 14 oil changes), but since the last oil change, I can't
Could it be because I waited more than two weeks to do so? Is the van angry at me :confuse: . It only comes on for a minute each time I start the engine, but it annoys me. The van is not supposed to "Talk" to me. Will I have to unplug the battery? Is it going to go berserk if I do so? Please, help me like you do so often!!!
Simon
The radio, tape and CD as well as all the radio control buttons work fine. It's just the lights.
Thanks
Anyone have any clues?
the accelerator just enough to keep it from going down far enough to reset the light.
Simon
BTW which side are you hearing it on, your heading says left but your message says right?
With the drivers window down and keys in the ignition, turn to where all the dash lights come on and then go and move the fulcrum three times to the right until it meets the stop. This ensures the reset.
I'll check out the motor mounts. I know it's not the top mount as it sems to be tight and the bushing is in place. How many motor mounts are there under the van?
Thank you again
Simon
1. My 1998 Pontiac Transport was a very versatile vehicle. Rode and drove good and would haul an unbelievable amount of stuff. (Short wheelbase version, too)
2. I kept it 153,000 miles.
3. I never had to add oil between 3k to 5k change intervals.
4. It never failed to start, stop, cool, heat, deliver us to our destination.
5. At 120,000 miles I noticed some anti freeze on the engine. Yep, manifold gasket had to be replaced.
6. At 125,000 miles I had to replace the rear hatch pulldown strap, maybe $10.
6. At 148,000 miles I had a check engine light come on and a random misfire was indicated. Yep, head gaskets had to be replaced.
7. Total repair costs for 152,000 miles was about $1500.
Given that I would have preferred not to have those problems, that was the extent of my repairs in 152,000 miles. It's probably good for a whole bunch more.
That doesn't seem exorbitant for almost 8 years of service and that many miles.
Because of that, I'm now driving a 2004 Montana, (Another Shorty), and at 22,900 it seems to be performing just like the old one.
Right now I'm thinking I should move this one on at about 100k and maybe my expenses would be almost $0.
Anyway, just wanted to point out that not all of the owners dislike the vehicle.
Charles
Regular reader of the triplets board but I haven't posted for a while. Enjoyed reading Dirk's long post about running from Katrina. Charlesew good to hear you are happy with your van but unfortunately GM vans seem to vary from mostly trouble free to totally junk.
Our 2000 Montana falls somewhere in between I think.
Continued pistonslap even after the coated replacement pistons were installed is annoying as hell. I am still trying to just live with it and move on. At 52K it is again starting to use oil but no use complaining to dealer as GM has ridiculous guidelines for oil usage.
My gas mileage has never exceeded 22 mpg even on road trips, EPA estimate for these vans is 26 mpg. On a vacation trip to Galveston TX last summer running 75mph with AC on and full load 4 adults, two kids and a full trunk we got just under 22 mpg. Considering circumstances it was a fair mileage but not great as reported by some.
More on the down side the other day noticed catalytic converter on our van is cracked by the flange right where it bolts up to the first muffler. Looking at owner's manual it seems cats are warranted up to 7 years so I will try my luck with the dealer.
Airbag light has not come on now for several months, pleasant surprise.
Passenger side headlight fills with water during rain or at car wash. Haven't sprung for a new one yet.
Passenger side air shock is sagging slightly, haven't bothered with repair yet.
Idle is inconsistent at start-up, like idle air motor or something in those lines.
Autozone could not pull up a trouble code.
Van occasionally moves forward on flat carage floor on start-up. Strange but a family member's Buick LeSabre 2005 did the same thing when it was parked in the same spot. Go figure.
We like the fold and tumble 3rd row seats. Quick to change from one to the other.
Gas tank is good size, on our trips when we go in two vans (Grand Voyager) we need to fill up less frequently.
Anyways my wife likes the van and as they say "ain't mama happy, ain't nobody happy".
Alien
Other than a couple of beaters in college I've always purchased GM vehicles. This was the last. Anyone want to buy a used Venture?
Thanks.
FYI, there was also a steering rack recall on some models.
Dirk
To keep the rears adjusted, use the parking brake, it will cure a sagging pedal in my experience.
recommendation is to check the brakes every 20-25k. The fact you didn't hear the brakes is not really an excuse for a regular maintenance item. Replacing the pads and rotors is not that expensive is it, compared to a replacement vehicle?
Dirk
Thanks
the battery I put in was of lower cranking amps - it was the only size the store had in stock at that time. since wondering about the VCR issue, my wife had the van not start twice & had to get a jump, both times. so I took the battery out & took it back, then discovered there was a higher cranking amp battery available - this time they had it in stock, so I traded the old one in. The van & VCR now run fine. I am assuming the electronics was saying - 'I need all of the amps to crank over the engine, so I am going to blow the VCR fuse, starting the engine is more important than the VCR" -sound logical?
the VCR & everything else seems to work well...
now that the vacations are over for the year...
any comments anyone?
>
Wow, that's incredible amount of cash for a brake job! Good gosh, is that normal? I do my own so I'm not familiar with shop prices, but I can get guaranteed USA made rotors for about $50 each, and the high-end guaranteed for life semi-metalic performace pads are - lets say $30. Rear cylinders require a rear tear-down to replace, but the parts are only going to be probably $50 for both. Even if you replaced both front calipers, parts would only be an additional $100 max.
I know its all labor, but a brake job on this vehicle is no different than about any modern car, it just flat out ain't that involved. If you got new struts with your brakes, maybe I could see the price. I'd think about complaining about price gauging to the owner if you got some quotes from other shops for same thing.
If you live near me, I'll do your next one for that much money! :~)
Dirk
OUR 97 VENTURE WITH ABOUT 110K MILES IS ONCE AGAIN CHUGGING RUNNING ROUGH AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. IT IS 1 OR MORE FUEL INJECTORS.
I HAVE HAD OUR VAN IN TWICE AND THEY SUPPOSEDLY DID A PRESSURIZED FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING AND A NEW FUEL FILTER, THAT HEALED IT FOR A FEW MONTHS. THEY TOLD ME THOSE PARTICULAR INJECTORS ARE PRONE TO HAVE PROBLEMS AND CLOG EASILY.
I HAVE RUN FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER THRU THE TANK 3 TIMES IN THE LAST FEW WEEKS AND THAT IS NOT GETTIN ER DONE.
MY QUESTION IS:
1. CAN I EASILY TAKE THE INJECTORS OUT AND BENCH CLEAN THEM SOMEHOW SO THEY WILL WORK MUCH BETTER.
2. IF SO CAN SOMEONE EMAIL THE PROCEDURE FOR RELIEVING THE FUEL PRESSURE, AND REMOVING A GIVEN FUEL INJECTOR, AND BENCH CLEANING IT (IF POSSIBLE)? IF NOT I NEED THE PRECEDURE TO REMOVE THEM ANYWAY BECAUSE I WILL LIKELY SEND THEM IN TO A CLEANING SERVICE.
THANKS
4THSTOOGE
secretagent4thstooge@yahoo.com
http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm
Approx net cost was $150
You have to take off the upper intake plenum to get to the injectors. If you are a DIYer that would be a good time to replace the thermostat. Much easier to get at with the upper plenum off.
Also use good Shell gasoline and you will have less trouble :~)
Dirk
So far, I have tried acid wash, many cleaners, wheel cleaners, abrasive polishes, chemical polishes, the list is quite extensive. I have take it to detail shops and my dealer and the only solution they can come up with is to refinish it. If that truly is the only solution, then I will do that next spring.
But, since some product caused this staining, why can't I use the same product to stain all the cladding evenly? I just want it to be all the same color and I'm not too particular which color that might be.
I will try to post a picture that really makes the streaks stand out. It does not look nearly that bad when you look at the vehicle.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Charles
It's been 5 days and noone has posted a gripe about their Montana. They must either be getting better or everyone just gave up.
Actually, I was posting to be sure the forum hadn't gone dead. 5 days with no posts is not like any other forums I visit.
Charles
Since everyone here is apparently out admiring their Montanas, you might want to bring your question to the folks in the Paint & Body Maintenance & Repair discussion -- they're likely to have answers for you.
MODERATOR
Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
Seems like a logical move to make.
Charles
Beyond that, this is port injected engine, and perhaps that cyl is not getting fuel for some reason. The wiring harness for that cyl might have gotten squished during the install.
D
I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana - the green with graphics we really like the look and miss it in the new stuff. Gave in to the van thing - thought it was ok to do when child 3 came along (my son!) with all the car seats - geez...
At purchase (65,000 miles), I requested a campaign printout (try it at dealer) and wow - talk about a list! 4 pages long. Many recalls, but the van ran fine and we liked the power passenger door.
Injector in #2 and #5 started to hang - you get a check engine light and P0300 codeset - cheap fix is to use 1/4" extension and bang on base of injector - cleared for months, but finally replaced. I was running salvage yard at time and borrowed set of injectors from smashed Montana, but later found brand new ACCELL set for $120 - all 6 injectors at 15 lbs/hour high performance at Summit Racing - great deal fyi. Dealer cost is $100 per injector!
Anyway, power door stopped opening with remote Tuesday - hard on us when walking daughter 1, 2 and holding 3rd child my son. Arm breaking actually!
Alarm still sounds when door open/not latched and van in gear. Door still opens using handle, but only after sliding for about 1.5 feet open. O/H button and remote do not actuate an open. You can hear first click - probably latch actuator, but no open. P/L also work fine. However, when door is open, both remote and O/H button will fully close and latch door.
Any advice - I signed up after seeing your comments back and forth.
I did look at the troubleshooting guide in the service manual and it's more extensive than I could post here however loose wiring seems to be a commom element. Have you cleaned the contact pad on the B-pillar and pins on the door? Also there is mention of a customer satisfaction service bulletin 99016A issued in Aug 2001. Some of the (but not all) symptoms are like you describe. If your 99 has a vin in the range of XD100003 to 167875 it might be affected. Don't know if the dealer would do for free. Also you might try reprogramming the door. Procedure may be in your owner's manual. If not reply back and I'll look it up.
Good info on the injectors too. Do you have the summit or accell part number?
Have always been cleaning pins/pads - CLR breakfree (great for guns US MIL spec now at Walmart believe it or not!) and fine 00 steel wool - keeps door bounce down, but no, something else must have gone - did reset procedure and now door will not even power assist open (you unlatch by hand, then door opens via motor/cable) - only manual for total open- uh oh. VIN is 112629 - so it is there.
The following is the text of the bulletin:
"Customer Satisfaction - Power Sliding Door Operation #99016A - (08/29/2001)
99016A -- Power Sliding Door Operation
Certain 1998-99 U Vans
Equipped with Gen II Power Sliding Door (RPO E58)
THIS BULLETIN REVISES AND SUPPLEMENTS CAMPAIGN BULLETIN 99016 DATED APRIL, 1999. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT SUBGROUPS "A" AND "B" IS INCLUDED AND STEP #12 OF THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IS REVISED."
The symptoms described in the bulletin are:
"The power sliding door almost fully closes then consistently reverses to the full open position (reversal after plunger contact).
The power sliding door will not operate in power mode with any of the switches (console, B-pillar, remote keyless entry fob).
The door will operate properly in the manual mode."
The remedy listed is:
"To prevent the possibility of this condition occurring, dealers are to replace the power sliding door control module, adjust the cable tension, and clean the pad and plunger.............
and it goes on into more details which are too long to post.
The speakers had holes at the top for two screws, but there were no holes in the steel, so I drilled and used some screws to secure the speakers.
No more squeaking noises! I was beginning to think the van was a rattle-trap, but now its quiet again!
I was pretty surprised to see decent quality speakers in the van from GM. They had decent cones, and separate tweaters, not the usual junk I'd seen on production cars before.
I have pictures of the offending speaker mount if anyone cares to see.
Cheers,
Dirk
Anyhow, van has been good. 01 silo, 70000+/- miles with no "real" problems. Fuel gauge quit working a year or so ago, that's beyond my shadetree mechanic abilities, so we simply fill when trip meter gets near 400 miles...no big deal...
My other car is (still) a 95 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4, which is getting up on 130000 miles - with never a serious issue whatsoever (oh, the nissan eats front tires if you don't have the toe in/alignment done religously--I knew I could think of something!). So my GM product is already not holding a candle to that, but gosh what could, I don't think I could kill the PF if I tried, lol
but you guessed it, now I'm looking for some advice on something a bit more serious, but thankfully this does not seem to be a "strand me in the middle of nowhere in a blizzard" type problem.
The silo's electric cooling fans go constantly (right from cold start/startup and they never stop) and my temp gauge does not work. It does not seem to be the thermostat - that would not make fans come on as they are with cold engine. Heater seems to work about the same as always. So, I'm thinking the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). My Haynes manual has a bunch of eloborate voltage/resistance tests, etc. to test the ECT sensor but because of time factor and my lack of skill in that type of thing, I'm just gonna put in a new sensor, IF:
It's not too high-dollar for the part, AND if people here indicate that looks like a good bet.
If I do it and that isn't the problem, then (if not too expensive for part) well no big deal. Off it goes to a shop, where I'm gonna have fuel gauge fixed, plugs & plug wires done, and the fan/gauge problem all done at once.
Well even with this, I can't complain. Great van. I was talking to a lady at work yesterday who bought an 02 or 03 Expedition about a year ago (40 or 50000 miles, same as my van when I got it), and she's had that thing in to have so many little odds & ends taken care of (along with some type of more major trans issue), I just can't imagine.....I thought Ford trucks were built ford tough and all that, lol but I don't know. It could be that she drives like she's in a stock car race or something, but I digress.
Any advice appreciated!
take care.
Oh, btw if anyone is interested, I put on Goodyear Triple Edge tires a year or so ago and they are highly, highly recommended. Awesome on dry, wet, snow and ice and seem to be wearing well.
J
So, what do you think?
J
sorry I've not updated on my "problem" above...took it to a shop. The ECT sensor I bought new was bad. Penny wise and pound foolish here. I saw a few sensors for approx. $25, and found one for $8 or 9 and put it in. So now I pay a shop a bunch of $ (don't know how much yet) to tell me I got a bad one. So, my amateur mechanic instincts were correct in identifying the problem, but the execution was flawed and now I pay!
In summary, if your elec cooling fan goes on and stays on and your temp gauge on dash quits, at the same time, it's your ECT sensor. A 10 minute repair. But get a good one.