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our power sliding door only closes automatically but wont open - any inexpensive ideas to try - any ways to check for a loose connections.
Also does anyone know if the interior tailgate handles are the smae on all vans as ineed a new grey one?
Thanks
Now that it's been a couple of weeks, and the thunk has not been heard in that time, I assume it was the radiator cap bumping.
Anybody know what 'body' (like the Camaro used to be an F body, etc) these vans are? It'd make a great title for the board.
It's a "U-Van" body style.
Jack in Colorado
Thanks,
Jack in Colorado
Had a bad seal and a broken engine mount replaced thinking it was that. Helped but not completely cured.
Jack
Code was read at Advance Auto.... oxygen sensor bank 1, etc...
I reset the code. things seemed fine.
My wife claims she hit a pothole and the Service Engine light is back on.
My questions:
#1 Since the van is running fine, could the light have been triggered by mileage??
the Van just passed 105,000 miles.... coincidence ??? or factory preset ???
#2 Could the 'pothole' jar a loose wire ??? Wet ???
#3 Online I see downstream? upstream? sensors explain???
Parts are usually $75 range... What should I figure for labor ???
Thanks
Jack in Colorado
For example - Check engine light lit - I got multiple codes (don't remember them now) that pointed me towards:
-MAF sensor
-O2 sensor
-idle air control
-high idle speed
apparently there was an air flow problem in the engine....
Solution - pcv valve was stuck open and was allowing too much air flow at idle, for
$ 3.00 I replaced it and haven't had a problem since...
I cleared code and the same code came back....
From other postings here and on other sites....
taking it to the garage will be a 'gamble'....
Some got $60 first time fixes... others $1000 with light still on!
Once the weather improves I may try to check wire harness ????
Van runs too well for anything serious to be wrong ????
P
since the light came back after you hit a bump, I would check the connector first, make sure the connector is clean on the inside and that the wire/connector is not damaged. If it all looks OK I would start to suspect the sensor itself. After 105K miles, it may be shot and need to be replaced. I'll check the diagram when I get home, if you've got a multimeter we can check to see if its getting power and see if its sending voltage to the ECU. I'll repost later...I'm thinking the O2 sensor is shot...
I'm not a mechanic and I don't play one on TV, I'm just a shadetree mechanic who likes to play with and fix cars. If you don't feel comfortable with doing these checks, leave them to someone who does. I can't take credit or blame if this goes good or bad. I've done my best to make sure that what I typed was right... You're on your own...but if you decide to tackle it, here's some guidelines. Please read them all first before you try anything...Please! I don't want to see you get hurt or mess up your car! Also, be sure to use a digital multimeter as O2 sensors are very sensitive and an analog one will destroy an otherwise good O2 sensor. And one more thing - all of these sensors use really low DC voltages to do their job so be sure that the connectors are in good shape and that you're careful with them when plugging them and unplugging.
For some of these checks,you'll need to backprobe the sensor connector with jumper wires or "t-pins" - And of course, you'll need a multimeter...
First - check the resistance of the O2 sensor heater. Since your code indicates trouble with the O2 sensor heater circuit, you may find your problem right here. Disconnect the connector and probe the connector on the sensor pigtail with the multimeter set at ohms of resistance. Connect the pos & neg of your multimeter to the pins that are top and bottom right as you look into the connector with the clip at the top. They're usually white wires. You should get resistance between 3 - 10 ohms. If you get an open circuit or excessive resistance, the heater is bad and you have to replace the sensor.
2 If that checks out OK, reconnect the sensor and lets check the signal to the sensor (this will set a check engine light which you can reset later) by backprobing, connect the multimeter positive to the purple (or purple/white) wire and the neg to the tan (or tan/white) turn the ignition on but do not start the car. You should get approx 400 to 450 millivolts. If you don't, check your wiring to the PCM.
3. Check for sensor operation - start the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. Check your multimeter again. It should now range between 100 - 900 millivolts. and switch between a high and low reading in that range. If it doesn't - it needs to be replaced.
4. Check the battery voltage to the sensor - shut engine/ignition off and disconnect the connector from the sensor pigtail. On the harness side of the connector - Connect the neg of your multimeter to the corresponding terminal for the black wire ( should be top left as your looking into the connector with the clip at the top) and connect the positive to the corresponding post for the pink wire (should be bottom left)
Turn the ignition on but don't start it - you should get about 12 volts. If you don't get 12 volts, you've got a wiring issue...and don't forget to check the fuse as well. IF the fuse is blown for the O2 sensor you'll set a code as well...as a matter of fact, check the fuse before you do anything, you might save yourself a lot of work.
To clear the trouble codes you've generated, just disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect. Best of luck - hope I helped you.
Snowstorm....
are my excuses for not going to a garage yet....
Real reason...
I just don't trust my mechanic!
Blown heater fuse ????
That's a new one....
Is there a fuse under dash? Replace? Reset???
Car runs so well... I hate to start throwing $$$ away.
On the bright side, the heater only brings the sensor up to temp sooner so it will start working quicker. The old ones were unheated and just waited for the exhaust heat to warm them up to operating temperature. If you decide to let it ride for a while the only disadvantage is that you stay in open loop mode for a few more minutes while the exhaust warms up the sensor and then all is well and the sensor is most likely working normally . Its probably why you haven't noticed any difference in the way the car runs. If you're running good and the fuse checks OK, wait until the spring, change the O2 sensor yourself (not a hard job-part will be under $ 100) and I bet your problem will be cured... best of luck
We recently had a problem with check engine light coming on. Code read said it was an O 2 sensor so we replaced it and it kept happening. We changed it 3 times with an after market sensor from 2 different parts houses and come to find out some of the after market sensors will not work on the Montana. We bought a dealer part O2 sensor and have had no problems for the last year. Strange but true. Also we have had the worst luck with the Ac condenser. Replaced 4 times this past summer and it works fine for a few days then when we crank the car you will hear a loud popping noise then the air goes back to hot. We were told it was probably bad parts but lets get real four times uhhhhhh don't think so ! Is there maybe something to do with to much pressure building up and causing the condenser to blow. Our vents don't change when you turn the knob either. I can hear it blowing but not out of the vents. I would love nothing more than to sell tickets and let my neighbors watch me blow this van up! I hate this thing. Don't even get me started about the head gasket leaking because if one more person tells me its normal I will be wearing a jumpsuit!!
Figuratively speaking of course I would be grateful for any feed back.
I also can't help you with the head gasket - the usual issue with the 3.4L V6 is the intake manifold gasket, not the head gasket so I'm not sure what's going on there.
AC condenser popping...?????
As for the vents not switching, they are switched by engine vacuum. There's a hose that runs from the dash actuator which goes along the passenger side footwell and through the firewall. It then loops around the windshield washer tank and hooks to a vacuum port just above the accessory drive belt. Check to make sure that its attached on both ends. My hose became plugged so I had to run a new one...not a hard job. I'd bet that your problem is similar, either the hose fell off or its plugged/broken...hopefully someone can help you with the other stuff...
I am going to try and replace it myself, looks easy enough. the only hard part is getting the large trim panel off the rear hatch.
Is this acceptable? Had an analysis done for the oil and they found traces of coolant, may point to bad head gasket. Coolant loss is very minimal. I just added less than 1qt to expansion tank first weekend in April, added 1-2qts this past Christmas, nothing in between.
Any interpretation of this information is appreciated.
Jack
Won't you please tell me how much fun you've had when you are done.
We have replace the cam and crankshaft sensors.
Does anyone else have this problem????
Can you hear the fuel pump when you 1st turn the key? Maybe a bad fuel pump relay?
Jack in Colorado.
Good info Jack....Thanks! :shades:
Compare the cost of repairing & maintaining your old car and its almost always less expensive than buying a new one...
Does it have issues which come up with most of them? Yes
Are these issues expensive? Sometimes
Are these issues easily fixed? Sometimes
Is it the owner's fault? Not usually
Are there others vans that are worse? Yes
Could GM have done better? Definitely
Are you being unreasonable? No, you make valid points
Do we like ours even with all of its quirks? Yes, its size and performance suits us well...
Its not the best, its not the worst...and yes, the headlights are horrible...
That being said, the fix for the HVAC switch is to replace the blower motor resistor. Its a $ 20.00 part located on the firewall behind the blower...replace it and you get all of your fan speeds back.
BTW - the reason that it fails is because it's location was not well engineered...its an electronic part and its located right next to the blower with all the dust and moisture blowing around...not good for electronic parts...
Best,
John
:shades:
My 1999 Montana has the overhead LCD gauge readouts for compass, average mileage, temperature, etc.. It only lights occassionally. Anyone else have this problem? Does not sound like a fuse...if that blew, it would be out all the time.
Thanks,
Jack.....in Colorado.
I just got a Honda Odyssey and hooked up my 3500 pound travel trailer to it and got a SHOCKING 9 miles per gallon! I really thought I'd get 14-15.
I welcome any information; I am really needing this info because I don't want to change vehicles AGAIN if the mileage is the same as the Odyssey.
We are on the road right now! We started out in PA and started our trek to the Pacific coast. The mileage was so bad with the trailer, we dropped off the 3300 pound trailer in Ohio at a storage facility because our trip was going to cost $2400 in gas alone because of the 9 mpg.
Thanks everyone! -Tony
1) Side rear doors won't lock/unlock consistently. Drivers side no longer locks or unlocks via "unlock" button.
2) Rear Hatch Ajar warning light on.
3) Battery goes dead, especially in winter. Alt checks ok.
4) Remote door lock quit working. New batteries in Tx.
5) Tranny shifts hard, intermittently, feels like slippage when accel from stop.
6) Feels like tire out of balance vibration. Broken belt in a tire?
7) Gas gauge drops rapidly after half tank.
8) Front brakes wear excessively fast, especially right front.
Many other issues, both past and present.
On disability, can't afford dealer rip off. Can anyone help on any of these issues? I try to do everything myself when possible.
Thank you, in advance.
Thanks for the info. I am on the 5th battery in the Montana, two from Farm & Fleet and three from Wally World. I find it very hard to believe all these batteries were poorly manufactured. With the history of the "Triplets" electrical problems I am becoming convinced there is a short taking place (or high resistance) at some point in the wiring scheme, which drains the battery prematurely. Obviously during winter months it takes more amperage to crank the engine over, which would explain why most battery trouble takes place then.
I gave up on Wally World tires after having two sets that developed problems. The present tires are Cooper brand and up to now have been very good tires.
Your comment about going back to Ceramic Brake Pads is a wise one, these next pads I install on a vehicle will be ceramic, but they sure won't be going on any Montana of mine as I hope to get rid of this one by fall, and NEVER own another. Hopefully I'll be able to find an affordable replacement that I can tow my "HI-Low" travel trailer with and get 22 to 28 mpg, Most likely I'll be checking out the "rice burners" after this last experience.
Thanks for the input collensdad.
Wish I could have given you better news.....
Jack
My answer was: handles well, reasonably good gas mileage, good seating arrangements........horrible reliability and constant problems.
Very frustrating considering that I went to GMI (General Motors Institute), worked for GM and EDS, consulted for GM at their Tech Center, helped modernize their plants and engineering centers, my wife retired from GM with 32 years at their Tech Center, my wife's father was a GM Director, my father retired from GM with 30 years as a tool & die maker, and my uncle was director of the GM die program! My friends and I who loved cars and trucks and who worked at GM saw the problems, but could not make GM understand the words "Quality and Long Term Investment".
Frustrating!!!
Jack
My LCD gauge has also went out. I took the overhead compartment apart found the computer board and just put it back in, I have noticed if I tap on it sometimes it will light up and go back out.
Also, our rear air stopped working two years ago. I was told to fix it I would have to take the entire back panel off but realized this week-end the motor is right behind the built in compressor. I whacked it with the handle of a screw driver and it is still working!!!
Has anyone replaced one on GM's three sister's mini-vans?
Is it a difficult task?
Thanks,
Jack in Colorado
See this web-site...
http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/
Jack...in Colorado
1 - to get to it you have to remove the exhaust crossover pipe to get to the bolts, the bolts are pretty tough to get off, use lots of penetrating oil and be patient.
2 - you work around them.
Personally, I took the exhaust crossover off when I did it. Once its off you have plenty of room to get it off and replace it. I've read that some people were able to take the bolts off the the thermostat housing without taking the crossover off - whatever works for you and the tools that you have...
Make sure you bleed the air out of the system when you refill it - there are 2 bleed screws, one over by the water pump and 1 closer to the thermostat...open them both to bleed the air out of the system while you refill it.