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Comments
-mike
However, we ALL have to breathe the stinking, rotten polluted air a car without a cat would put out. My daughter is only six, it would be nice if she inherits a planet worth living in (which would include air to breathe).
-mike
Ross
A $200 car is more likely to need a cat than a newer car and I also like breathing cleaner air particularly since I suffer from asthma.
Cheers Pat.
-mike
-Frank P.
And yes all my cars have all their cats on them even though I'd perefer it not that way.
-mike
You need look no further than LA. where they will pretty soon need to wear gas masks full time because of the bloody smog, is this what you advocate by saying removing a cat. converter is no worse than speeding.
Cheers Pat.
PS. I can Identify with only being able to afford a clunker I have had my share but they were all safe and would have passed emissions.
to each their own, but it's not just as easy as walking in and asking for a catless track pipe.
RP
My point is that if you have a clunker, and it's your only transport, there is no reason to not do a patch job til A) you can afford a better car the car dies and you have to replace it anyway.
-mike
Greg
-Intended to change the subject.
I have asthma too. :-(
Emissions regs are not retroactive. In fact, that's why drag racers love classic cars, because they can pretty much do whatever they want with them.
-juice
-mike
Before it "aged out" of the program, my 69 PowerWagon always passed... only because it had a chance to get running on all 8 cylinders between home & the test station!
Cheers!
Paul
One in particular which I bought for the princely sum of 30 pounds A 1953 Austin A40 drophead coupe is now worth many thousands of pounds.
One guy I read about in an english classic car book spent almost 30,000 pounds restoring one to new condition.
Cheers Pat.
-juice
-Dave
Ross
What does this have to do with Subarus? Hmmm, well their both Japanese car companies... Which one made it to the States first? Datsun I suspect. What was Subaru's first vehicle sold in the US? (The first I can remember was the Brat)
-Frank P.
Subaru's first car here? Was it the 360? Maybe the GL sedan and wagon?
Here is the world's first sport utility wagon, from 1974:
-juice
Greg
-juice
-mike
David
Ross
Thanks,
Joe
Try Z chains, the lower profile sort. Anyone have links?
-juice
PS I would chain all four
www.vulcantire.com/chainfaq
What do you think, juice, are those described clearances feasible for a Forester?
Joe
The B210 is not necessarily a dog, but I couldn't resist the heading. We also had one in our family, and I learned to drive a manual transmission in it. What a lightweight, really easy to drive car! It had little power, but the highway speed limit was 55 (most people drove only 60) and I had no business driving faster anyway. I remember flooring the gas, and well, nothing much happened except the car gained speed at a leisurely pace.
Steve
In My past life in Ireland I owned a 49 and a 50 A40 worth between 2,000 and 5,000 pounds now depending on condition, One 54 A40 in the same price range, also had two Morris minors and they are also fetching good money these days.
I also had various other clunkers that would still be clunkers if they were around today.
Cheers Pat.
From http://www.cars101.com
"The first U.S. Subaru is a 360 Mini. This small rear wheel drive car had a 2-stroke, 25 horsepower 356 cc engine (thus the 360 name), weighed under 1000 pounds, got 66.3 mpg and cost $1,297. "
Dennis
On the 360, the price and mileage would be good! :-)
-juice
Had Subaru put on the shims and voila! No more squealing! I also muted the horn signal that turns on and off the alarm. It was too loud of a beep. Question, if I turn on my alarm and then I mess with the car it does not set off the alarm. The only thing that sets it off is if you open the door. Is that normal???
In any event, I just replaced my engine oil at 9K and used Mobil 1 synthetic 10-30. Also, changing the oil with that Fumoto valve is great. Too bad that the filter is such a messy ordeal. And finally, I am amazed that my dealer charged me $8 bucks for an oil filter.
I used the synthetic so I feel that I can definitely go 7500 miles between changes. But, do I still have to change the filter every 3K miles? What good is good oil and a dirty filter? Opinions welcomed.
Thanks.
RP
http://scc-chain.com/products.htm
They make a variety of traction devices. I own the Shur Grip Z cables for my Forester and have used them with no problems. If you read through the manual, it tells you to use chains on the front wheels only.
Ken
Ken
oh btw Ken, no luck on the stock shifter. sifted around in the garage a bit this evening and nope... it was 'wifed'. she must have figured that the kartboy would never break (it won't) and I'd never want to replace it (I don't!). sorry dude.
-Colin
Thanks,
Joe
Regarding your dealer's comment with synthetics, I truly believe it is who you talk to -- all they offer are their 'opinions'. For example, when I was shopping around for my Outback, one dealer said that he has a customer who buys a Subaru every 2-3 years, and at the first oil change, replaces the dino oil with Mobil 1. The dealer who I eventually brought my OBW from offers a Mobil 1 oil change -- abeit @ $50 -- yikes.
With the broader experience you will find here and at other Subaru newsgroups, I was reassured that many people have used and use it, and have gotten many miles with their Subs without any problems from it...
Anibalb: In my Forester, the alarm "brain" (thanks, Colin) located under the dash near the steering column. I'm not 100% sure where it is on your OB. Does anyone here know? Maybe the dealer can help you.
Joe: Cables and chains are technically both traction devices. Although the manual states "chains" it's really calling for a traction device. The difference between the two are durabilility, ease of use/size and level of traction.
Chains typically are more tricky to put on although there are some fancy European models that are little easier. Because chains are bulkier, they are more durable and usually offer more grip. The biggest issue with chains is clearance. Many passenger vehicles don't have enough space around the tire to allow for a chain.
Cables are more compact and are usually a lot easier to put on. However, they don't offer quite the high level of traction as chains. My Shur Grip Zs go on super easy because they have a self-tightening feature. No need to stop and check for proper fit after 100ft.
Ken
With regards to the Shock Sensor Test,
1. Lower the driver's side window then close all doors.
2. Depress the LOCK/DISARM button on the remote to enter the armed mode.
3. Wait 5 seconds, then reach through the window and lightly strike the rim of the steering column
(DO NOT hit the horn or AIR BAG!) and the following should be observed:
a. The horn will chirp 2 times.
b. The parking light will flash 2 times.
NOTE: This is the shock sensor warning mode. For light vibration and/or impacts, only warning chirps are delivered.
4. Wait 10 seconds, then again reach through the window and firmly strike the rim of the steering column and the alarm should trigger.
NOTE: If the shock sensor sensitivity is too high or low, the sensitivity may be adjusted by following the procedure section 1.
anibalb - If after testing your alarm, you want to adjust it, check my profile and E-mail me. I will scan the pictures of the module installation and the instructions on how to adjust the shock sensor.
cheers,
Tom
Ken
Actually looks easier in the manual than it sounds.
The starter interrupt and horn relay is located under and to the right of the steering wheel column behind the dash panel.
Tom
If you are giving me directions while driving, just point - it works! :~}
Tom