Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

cptplt · November 2001

dunno about a 95 but on the 98 its a bulb, have to take the dash apart to get to it, at least 1 hr labor. if you go to a dealer they may make you replace the whole unit, find a shop familiar with Subes, they probably have bulbs lying around.

stevek · November 2001

I don't take that Ritilin stuff................anymore

:):)

Got a question, how do I adjust the headlights on a 01' Legacy GT? The large bolt sticking out toward the bottom does the hight adjustment, but I see no adjuster for the side? There is something sticking out at the top toward the middle of the light housing but it has a palstic duda on it which just turns freely?
Thanks

bluesubie · November 2001

Fraser - I had to get new pads on my OBS at 50,000 miles. I was in a hurry, so I just went to Meineke instead of the dealer. I made the mistake of getting their hardest lifetime pad too. I can handle the squealing, but they're definitely wearing the rotors faster. Within 6 months, I had a shake in the steering wheel when braking. Most likely, caused by the harder pads starting to wear grooves into the rotors.
Dash lights - consider yourself lucky that the bulbs have lasted this long. Yes, it's about one hours' worth of labor for a little bulb.

Colin - good luck. Maybe Ed from ISR will reply.

Dennis

vincer2 · November 2001

One nice thing about Subaru (and Toyota) oem brake pads is that they give off very little dust. Between washes hardly any dust accumulates on my alloy wheels. Not sure if you would have the same experience with a less expensive set of pads.
Vince

armac13 · November 2001

It's a good thing you stopped taking Ritilin for your OCD - it would not help at all and could increase your paranoia. :-) What you need is a nice SSRI antidepressant to treat OCD.

Ross

kens · November 2001

Colin,

Sorry to hear about the problems. Unfortuantely, I don't think I can be of much help. Just hoping you get this figured out as soon as possible.

Good luck,
Ken

locke2c · November 2001

Thanks all.

Someone on the iClub confirmed that the heater lines do plumb right in the area I'm having a problem, so this evening I'll be taking a better look. My dad worked on the left side of the engine when we did the cams a year ago, and he remembers the hoses. But I'm not pulling the heads this time, so I hope after I pull away some plumbing up top it's easy to reach the leak and fix it.

I'll see if I can get my wife or any other helpers to take pics. Sorry, but once I get dirty I don't touch my digicam.

-Colin

c_hunter · November 2001

If it is in fact a leak in the lines going to/from the heater core, switching the heat on/off will affect the behavior of the leak, and this can provide an easy diagnosis.

There is a lot of pressure in the main line leading to the heater when the heat is off, but the pressure drops quite a bit as the flow rate picks up (ie, Bernoulli's principle). Leak rates are proportional to pressure, so you can use these principles to home in on the problem. If you think the heat setting has a direct effect on the leak rate, it would confirm your notion that it is a heater line. Can you tell if the coolant was leaking less when you switched the heat on?

Craig

locke2c · November 2001

Craig,

Just refilling the radiator resulted in a pretty obvious leak, so I don't really think I need to test the car with the heater running to see it really spew-- it might be interesting but probably just make a bigger mess in the garage then I've already got.

The flush & fill was probably just coincidental timing for something that worked loose or wasn't properly secured after last year's work. It held through last winter but this year when I started using the heat again it sprang free.

-Colin

zwihund · November 2001

The clutch shudder is very widespread on all the message boards. Is SOA going to put out a fix soon, and if not why? I'm sure you have heard this mentioned many times by customers. I have read over a hundred different posts complaining of the same problem, but SOA has not given a fix like the brake shim kit for the squeek. Are they working on this or looking into it? Thanks for your thoughts and time.
z

mcnal01 · November 2001

My high beam suddenly came on by itself and is now locked on high beam. Moving the switch does nothing and the blue high beam indicator light stays on regardless of the switch position.
96 Legacy L wagon. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks

snizave · November 2001

Hi everyone! I posted a while back about my overheating legacy. As it turned out, the loose belt was the culprit, but I was wondering if anyone knew just how tight the belts should be, and how can you tell when they are tight enough? I'm sure there's some sort of tool for this that I don't have and can't buy(money reasons- I have none), so is there a way to eyeball it? Thanks a lot everyone, and have a good holiday. My Subaru will be returning to it's natural habitat on the horrible gravel roads and river crossings on the way to my parents house. The subie never did like the city much anyway

Thanks,
Mike

jfl · November 2001

Mike,
The old rule of thumb was 1/2" (half inch) movement when pressing down at the midpoint of the longest distance between pulleys. More than 1/2" is too loose and less is too tight & bad for the bearings.
Jim

paisan · November 2001

I believe there is a deflection chart under the hood? At least there is on on my XT6, that tells you how much deflection to have.

-mike

pattim3 · November 2001

Thanks for your post. I wish I had a better answer for you.

With the brake noise, we were able to find a single cause, so we were able to come up with something.

It's a bit different with the clutch shudder/chutter/judder. In looking at the complaints, we have found that there can be numerous causes. Some - characteristic, other's we were able to make a repair.

If you are having a problem, I can only suggest that you have a dealer take a look at it. Test drive with them to demonstrate what you mean and I'm sure that they can address it.

I have a hard time relating to it, because I have never experienced it. When repairs are done or if someone contacts us about a problem, we track it to try to find a common issue. When we do, we can issue a technical service bulletin, but we can't with what we have right now.

What year Subaru do you have? How many miles and when does it occur?

Patti

jmulholl · November 2001

I have an engine vibration problem in my 2000 legacy. Its esp. bad up to 2500 rpm and comes thru the driver's seat. Goes away at around 3500 rpm by keeping it in 3rd. Mileage is 30,000. Is there a warranty issue here? Or does it just need a tuneup? Thanks.

ramon · November 2001

hey guys,
to those who do their own oil change, how do you maintain the warranty with subaru? And also any websites on how to DIY oil change for our cars? Thanks.

kens · November 2001

ramon,

Just keep your receipts for oil and filters and you should be fine.

I know juice has lots of good photos on changing oil on our vehicles. It's super easy. You may also want to try doing a search over at i-club too.

Ken

locke2c · November 2001

jmulholl--

a few questions;

any noises during this vibration?

what octane do you use?

does it do this in any weather, or only now during the winter?

how long has it been doing it?

have you taken it to a dealer yet?

-Colin

jmulholl · November 2001

colin:
1. no noises during vibration
2. I use regular
3. It seems to have been doing it all along, but has become really annoying in the last few months. Weather here (MD)has been quite mild, not really winter yet.
4. I haven't taken it to a dealer yet.
Also: most noticable in the driver's seat. Less so in the back seats.
Joe

pattim3 · November 2001

I have no ideas on what could be causing that. I'd get it into the dealer for a check up.

Thanks,

Patti

locke2c · November 2001

I definitely agree. Sounds are hard to diagnose in person, much less online. ;-)

See if the service writer or manager wants to drive while you ride along to hear the sound.

-Colin

stevek · November 2001

Took my car to the dealer to have the light alignment done(01 Legacy GT Limited). Their idea of an alignment is to pull the car into the bay (any bay), roll the toolbox to the side and "eyeball" the wall (from which they are not even 10 feet away). I told them the hight was not a problem but the passanger side points way toward the right not onto the shoulder of the road. I have found that the bolt toward the bottom of the light (by the fender) adjusts the height but could not deternmine how the left/right adjustment is done. The dealer just adjusted the height. How come the dealer does not know how to adjust them and why don't they use a deadlight adjuster. Of course they would not release the car so I gave them my credit card and as soon as out of there I called the company and put the amount in dispute. Any one knows where the side to side headlight adjustments are on these cars?
Thank you

ateixeira · November 2001

Colin: any update? I guess in a way it's good that it's easy to trace the source of the leak. A slow leak could be a real nuisance.

Well, my tip for the week is to check your battery water levels! Mine died this past week after gross neglect. It's funny that while I spend much time obsessing over some stuff, I forget something as simple as this.

Any how, one cell was dry and is toast. Adding distilled water was too little, too late. I got 3.5 years out of it, which isn't too bad, but I bet it would have gone 5 years had I added distilled water with each oil change (I will now).

Side note: the 5 speeds get a measly 260 CCAs out of the stock battery. My replacement makes more than double. Don't get stuck in the cold with 260 CCAs and a low water level!

I could jump it, but the battery would not hold a charge so it was replaced.

-juice

paisan · November 2001

Should have been a 1/2hr affair @ Pep Boys! Like changing batteries in a flashlight! Hee hee

-mike

locke2c · November 2001

Didn't get to take a look at the car last Tuesday like I intended to because on the way to dinner that night we hit a deer. My wife and I were passengers in our friends' 2000 Dodge Neon and no one was hurt. The car suffered probably $4,000 in damage as the hood and passenger window pillar took the worst.

anyway, I decided to stay home Wednesday and took a peek with a friend who was home too. after about 45 minutes of light disassembly and testing, we concluded with our inspection mirrors that it was probably a head gasket. :-(

the heater hoses looked fine and were reasonably dry, and coolant seemed to be seeping from between the block and the head, dripping from the rear edge of the head.

I called around and took it into a trusted local independent. they could still find something small, like a hose, but I did bring in a replacement set of head and intake manifold gaskets to be ready for the worst. and I remembered that a friend never bought me a replacement set of exhaust gaskets after I gave him my spares during his turbo kit install... punk.
Will update everyone later this week.

-Colin

ateixeira · November 2001

Well, I wanted to find the problem, not just fix it, you know me.

We hoooked it up to a charger for 3 hours after adding distilled water, then tried a battery load tester. It would charge up close to full, but a single load test would kill it again.

So we knew the battery was bad. It was $30 at Wal Mart for 535 CCAs and a 2 year replacement warranty. Hardly worth mentioning, but I figured someone else could learn from my mistake.

Side note: my brother-in-law has the most awesome set of tools I've ever seen, and I mean that. Everything you can imagine. He even has air tools, with every attachment I've ever heard of.

He teaches shop at a school, and restores Corvettes and Firebirds. We hit a junk yard and I got a lit mirror for my Miata (from a Lumina of all things), plus a few odds and ends for his Trans Am. I drove the T/A and besides the wealth of low-end torque it's not the type of car I'd desire at all.

Not one '95 or newer Scooby in both of the junk yards we visited. Lots and lots of DSM cars for whatever reason.

-juice

kens · November 2001

juice,

What battery did you get? I'm also due for a replacement and have been shopping around. Seems like DieHards are quite popular and I'm wondering if the $80 for the Gold model is worth it.

BTW, real dumb question, but how do you check the water levels?

Ken

rsholland · November 2001

if it's a sealed battery. if it's not sealed, you just pop off the caps, and look in.

Bob

subearu · November 2001

that the water levels in our batteries were non-serviceable (maintenance free, etc.)?

Regardless, a new battery is a pretty easy fix. What's the expected life of car batteries these days anyways?

-Brian

ateixeira · November 2001

It's hard to tell, but I think if you open the tops and shine a flash light, you can see the water level on the side of the battery.

I got an "Ever Start" at Wal Mart for $30. I'm not familiar with the brand but didn't have the inclination to shop around in an unfamiliar town (I was in CT), and we were there anyway. It offer 535 CCAs, which is more than double the stocker, so that's fine with me.

Much easier starting now. I think the old one had deteriorated for a while and I didn't even noticed. Shame on me.

-juice

PS Ours are not sealed, you can and should check them

subearu · November 2001

now we'll be distilling water and measuring levels in batteries!

-Brian

rsholland · November 2001

I think most OEM batteries are good for abut 4-5 years.

Bob

subearu · November 2001

that's what I figured. Surprising how OEM batteries are always skimping on the CCA.

Back in college (I'm saying that like it was a long time ago - only 6 years) I had a '87 Comanche. First thing I did when I bought it used was replace the battery with something like a 650 CCA model. I was one of the few on campus that could successfully start during the cold snap one winter. Sure it sounded like heck while the oil turned from clumps into liquid, but it started nonetheless.

-Brian

paisan · November 2001

I have a walmart battery I put in my boat this past summer, great battery, I think it's something like 1000cca or 850. It's huge and heavy, but it was like $50 or $60 and it's been great even when I leaft my lights on overnight.

-mike

kens · November 2001

D-oh! Another thing to check. I completely thought our batteries were non serviceable. Better go and check.

I may just change batteries anyway since it is over 3 years old. I wouldn't want to get stuck during ski season.

Ken

scubadvr · November 2001

Hey guys,

Sorry for bring this topic back up again. I've spent a significant amount of time looking through previous posts, on multiple boards, and each time I give up a little bit easier. So, until the search function turns up the posts I am looking for, I have a question that has been asked before.

I'm bringing my 2001 Outback in for an oil change. I asked the dealer what he could do to fix the early morning squeaking when backing out of the garage, and I was not offered the solution presented here. I mentioned that I recalled hearing of a shim kit that Subaru offered under warranty, but the person I was speaking with said he had heard nothing of this, and their fix was tightening 'something'. Is there a memo or any paperwork or part number that Subaru has for this problem/fix? Is there some way that I can steer this guy so that he can tell me if the shim kit is for me or not? Basically, how can he be informed (what should I tell him), if he is not already?

Thanks all...
Colin II

royallen · November 2001

Just to make your battery check accurate, there is a short curved plastic piece extending from the battery top into the cell opening about 1/2" toward the surface of the electrolyte. When full a curved meniscus can be seen at the bottom of this plastic gauge and when low the electrolyte surface will be flat and not touching the gauge.

leo2633 · November 2001

I've always used Sears Die Hard batteries as replacements for every vehicle I've owned over the last 28 years and have been satisfied with them. I always get the top of the line Die Hard (which is now the "Gold", I think). I've always gotten 4 years out of each one, even though they were warranteed for 5 years. I just plan on replacing them every 4 years. And yes, you do need to check the water level occasionally, and top it up with distilled water whenever necessary. Also, keep the terminals clean. My Dad used to clean them and then coat them with bearing grease to prevent corrosion...talk about OCD!

Len

ateixeira · November 2001

I was thinking the same thing - yet another thing for us to OCD about.

Side note: according to the guide I used, the auto trannies had batteries with more CCAs. Not sure why, though.

Ken: remember, you can always push start your 5 speed. And my battery, though weak, had enough power to keep my radio station settings, stuff like that. So service it and you'll probably get another year or two out of it.

Len: CR said Sears changed suppliers, so the new Die Hard isn't made by the same folks that made the old one, apparently.

We cleaned the terminals and applied battery terminal spray, an insulating red layer of gunk that my brother-in-law had lying around. OCD is alive and well.

-juice

kareta · November 2001

kareta · November 2001

I am looking for anecdotal information about 1997 Outback engines with a cracked block with no neglect or operator apparent cause. Subaru dealer says the incident is isolated, but I have access to a memo from a Subaru District Manager that tells me that may not be the case. I am looking for other Owners or Service personel who have encountered this problem. Help!

ateixeira · November 2001

Sorry, first case I've heard of, and I read all the Subaru threads here.

-juice

locke2c · November 2001

I've never heard of any either, on unmodifed engines for certain.

What's your goal with this? Are you under 5yrs/60k miles and trying to have something covered under factory powertrain warranty? If so, Patti might be able to help as she has helped many others.

-Colin

pattim3 · November 2001

Good Morning! Do you need some assistance? If yes, call us at 1-800-SUBARU3. How many miles are on your Subaru and are you the original owner? Where is the "crack". This is not a common problem, and if you are within the 5/60 powertrain warranty it should be taken care of.

Thanks!

Patti

ateixeira · November 2001

The only thing I can think of is the block is aluminum, and perhaps if it's submerged in cold water suddenly that could happen (still very unlikely). Were you driving around in flood conditions?

Either way, call the 800 number for starters.

-juice

njstreeter · November 2001

I have the same problem on a 2.5 liter engine for a 1998 Outback. Our block is cracked at #4 cylinder. We just had our car in for service 2 weeks before this happen. We had all belts, front springs replace and seals for 85,000 miles service. No one can explain why this happen. Anyone else have this problem

toca · November 2001

can anyone w/ more knowledge than I rule out the possiblity that shorter piston skirts could be the culprit?

ateixeira · November 2001

I doubt a piston could do it, and if so the engine would likely sieze.

Do you recall if you crossed high water close to the time it happened? Submerging a hot aluminum block in cold water would cause a sudden change in temperature and could at least in theory cause a cracked block, because the aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than the steel cylinder liners.

-juice

rangerron7 · November 2001

Hi all,
I need to order oil filters and crush washers. Any advice as to who I should call? I would like to deal with a parts department who will be responsive, that I can speak to a person, and that they will ship in a reasonable amount of time. (I recall Juice had a problem with someone he used a while back, was it subaruparts.com?? Can't remember.)
Get this...I stopped by the dealership to ask how much an oil filter and crush washer would cost.
$5.98 + 0.85 for the crush washer!! I had to bite my tongue from not laughing out loud.

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