I went to Pep Boys and R&S Strauss looking for front brake pads. First, both places ask if it's 14" or 15" wheels. I told them it only comes in 15. When Mike tried using the ones they sold me(for the 15"), they were obviously wrong. I finally was able to get over to exchange, but the only other one's they had were for 14". Any ideas on what to do? Can I use the 14" ones? They look close, but I don't want to take any chances.
Hi I just bought a 2003 Forester X, I recently noticed (500 mi) that the paint on the rear door near the gray trim panel that traverses it is flaking away. The paint is Pacifica Blue and I have seen it on other blue X's. It is on both the left and right sides of the door. Anyone else have this? It is hard to spot. You have to look for it. Other than that I have the wind noise and am not to impressed with the overall fit and finish( glove box alignment, coin tray) First tank 25 mpg mixed driving.
I also own a an '03 X (5spd) and though I'm not familiar with the paint flaking (haven't checked) I've had similar issues - wind noise and crooked glovebox. On top of that a shimmy that won't go away at 75+ mph that I'm too tired of attempting to fix after servicing it twice and talking to another dealership. My guess is it's tire-related and I can live with it until they wear out.
Does the wind-noise sound like it could be a bad seal or are you writing about the over-all noise the vehicle transmits into the cabin? If it seams like a seal, it can be resolved like mine was (see post above.)
The glovebox? At least one other post mentions it with no resolution. I've learned to live with it. It's not major but obviously you're disappointed as I was to some degree.
My first tank of gas was close to 30mpg. All highway and flat. After that it's been closer to 27 mpg. Exactly what I expected. Frankly, the mileage you've reported seems reasonable.
My expectation was to experience some minor issues with the vehicle. I've been reading the Subaru posts for over a year across all models and fit-and-finish issues are not uncommon. My expected offset is safer driving in inclement weather, comparable reliability to Honda/Toyota (with a bit more attention to maintenance) and utility (cargo).
My suggestion is to go to the dealer and of course see if you can resolve these issues. The paint is obviously the priority, but my expectation is they'll tell you the glovebox, mileage and coin tray are all normal (in other words, no resolution). What I'd like is for you to surprise me and respond by writing there's at least a solution - the crooked glovebox.
Romy: here's another thought - you'll now have a brand new tranny, and it may even have the benefit of any improvements made for 2003 not published or visible.
Mega: the paint on my '98 is still quite good. Go back to the dealer, maybe for your first oil change, and point it out. They'll probably repaint the whole door.
Actually the new Camry was downgraded in reliability, and now the Forester and Legacy/Outbcak are actually rated higher. They're also higher than Civic (Accord is too new to be rated).
Waterpump should not be changed out until 120K unless you are experiencing some problems. Cam and Crankshaft seals should be changed out whenever the timing belt is changed.
I found out the hardway that you can save out a lot of money changing out the seals every 60K, and the waterpump every 120K.
I will be taking it to the dealer this week for the paint. Theory is that when the attach the trim piece, too much force is used and Subaru is damaging the paint so it may be on many 2003's.
I have just looked at the glove box, it seems to me that the right hinge is loose. I see if I can tighten it up (not a loose screw but the hinge itself)
This after I did: oil/filter air filter plugs tranny/dif fluids
They did: cooling system flush and replenish brake fluid change adjust parking brake 4 wheel alignment
Total charge was $193.00 Labor for fluids was $104 Labor for alignment $69 Fluids were $20
Couriously the alignment found the right front camber off wher I was seeing left front inside shoulder wear??? Also had them check the clutch as I (like many) get some first use chatter. They found nothing but want the car back left overnight. Seems reasonable.
From my 01 manual: Front camber -0º05' +/- 30' Rear camber -0º20' +/-45'
From my dealer's spec: Front camber -0º35' to 0º25' Rear camber -1º40' to -0º10' Front caster 2º05' to 4º05' Rear caster -0º10' to 0º10'
After my alignment: Left Front camber -0º15' Right Front camber -0º15' (was -0º43') Left Rear camber -0º13' Right Rear camber -0º25' Front caster 2º53' Rear caster 2º50'
I guess my only question is does this look like they got me in OCD spec?
i have had my '94 impreza for about 1/5 years now and i've had the three problems listed in the subject line during that period of time. i really thought subarus were supposed to be exceptional cars and i shouldn't have that many EXPENSIVE problems in this short of a time span.
i am wondering if anyone else has had the same problems at similar mileage.
approx 73k = oil and water pump started leaking onto the catalytic converter and consequently creating a lot of steam. $600 approx 77k = AC compressor destroyed itself. $1000
are there more problems that i should expect? should i bail on my subaru asap and get a toyota or honda?
has been in my experience some of the hardiest out there - it is pretty rare for the compressors to quit - this is based on several Subies I have owned personally.
I had a '97 Impreza (outback sport) from new that I sold recently at 115K that had never had any repairs except the idler pulley when I replaced the timing belt. At that time I even skipped replacement of the water pump, which was doing fine.
Oil pump is internal - are you sure that was what was leaking, and not just the crank seals? The crank seals seem to wear out on this model around 100K.
BTW, the water pump is located on the front of the engine - you can see it if you lift the hood. There is no way it could leak on the catalytic converter. In fact, if it has excessive play, or if it is leaking, it would be the quickest thing in the world for you to pull it and check for yourself. You could also monitor the level of coolant in the little clear plastic overflow jug to see if it is leaking.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
sheilin: those do seem like uncommon problems. That's the first A/C condensor failure I've heard of on a Subie.
Oil pump? The front seals do sometimes leak, usually at 90k miles or later. The water pump and the seals can be changed when you do the timing belt at 60k. We were just discussing this in another topic.
You probably had a coolant leak onto the hot exhaust. I doubt it leaked internally, or you'd have much bigger problems.
Keep in mind your car is *nine* years old, problems will occur even if you maintain it. Wear and tear items made from materials like rubber will wear out even if they're on a Lexus. I'm talking about CV boots, axle boots, motor mounts, belts, hoses, suspension bushings, etc.
New Honda Civics are just "average" in reliability, no better than the Impreza, and Subaru offers a 67% longer powertrain warranty.
Hi. This message was posted for my vechicle on www.mysubaru.com website. Be safe, apply parking brake.
Subaru of America Announces Voluntary Recall of Certain 2001, 2002 and 2003 Model Year Vehicles with Automatic Transmission.
On November 7, Subaru announced a forthcoming voluntary recall for a possible defect in the automatic transmission parking rod. Subaru is taking these prudent measures to ensure the safety of our owners, which is our top priority. The campaign was launched as a result of finding out-of-specification parts during quality assurance testing. There have been no reported injuries as a result of this condition.
This recall affects 163,243 automatic transmissions that were installed in very late production 2001 Legacy vehicles, all 2002 Legacy, Outback, Forester and Impreza vehicles and some early production 2003 Legacy, Outback, Baja, Forester and Impreza vehicles. When the transmission selector lever of affected vehicles is placed in the "Park" position, the mechanism that is intended to hold the vehicle in "Park" may not fully engage, and the vehicle could move without prior warning. Properly applying the parking brake will prevent vehicle movement even if this condition exists.
It is important to note that less than 0.5% of the 163,243 vehicles indicated are suspected to have this condition. However, all vehicles will have the new parts installed to ensure the safety of our owners.
Repair parts should be available in January 2003. Subaru will soon mail a letter to all registered owners of the affected vehicles, advising them to always use their parking brake when the vehicle is in the "Park" position, as directed in the Owner's Manual. A second letter will be sent to owners when the repair parts are available early next year. Repairs will be made at authorized Subaru dealers at no charge to owners.
your alignment before & after is missing toe settings. your camber may have been off on the front right, but I'd bet you had excessive toe-out on the front left if you were seeing inner shoulder wear on that tire.
I had a wind noise problem with the right front window on our 02 Legacy GT wagon. The dealer service dept. re-adjusted the window, and the noise went away. The track was mis-aligned and wasn't allowing the window to go up all the way.
I used to get a lot of noise from the roof rack on my old Outback Sport. I removed the cross bars on my 02 WRX wagon, and it's much more quiet than the OBS. They re-install easily if I want to use them, but they are noisey. It's also easier to brush the snow off the roof with the cross bars removed.
Got some special deals in the mail today from Subaru, new front pads with a brake fluid flush and refill wheel rotation $99 CDN. Rad. flush and refill $49 CDN.
Seems like a deal to me for anybody needing it any similar deals in the States?
is just being regurgitated from what the service guys at the dealership told me. they told me both my oil and water pumps were leaking on to my catalytic converter. so uh, i dunno!
none of you know of any other problems i should be looking out for?l
Sheilin: the next most common issue is the wheel bearings. But if they're still quiet at this age, they'll likely be fine. They would have failed by now.
Just heard from the dealer, Minooka Subaru, that the replacement transmission is in and that it is new not remanufactured. I will be getting it put in next Tuesday and they are giving me a loaner for the day. I'm very pleased with the dealer and Subaru for their prompt handling of this problem.
I'm not going to pretend Subes are bulletproof, but it is worth noting that I have seen a lot of cases where the owner was told all kinds of things were broken and needed replacement when it was not true. If you do not know your vehicle well, then you are at the mercy of what your mechanic / dealer tells you. I find the simultaneous failure of your oil pump and water pump odd for starters.
I also think it is worth noting that a few thousand miles later your A/C failed. The reason I mention this is that a mechanic not bothering to take the time to measure proper belt tension will usually overtighten the belts they had to remove for water pump replacement. No mechanic wants a car back in with slipping belts, so it's always a few extra tightening turns and you're on your way. The downside? Why it overstresses the bearings on the A/C, the water pump, and the alternator. Care to connect the dots with me as to why your A/C failed? Coincidence? "Aw, gee sir - that's too bad you're back in here for another expensive repair. Too bad your car is so unreliable, but we'll get 'cha back on the road (snicker)"....
So, no your vehicle is not prone to these kinds of failures, but the way it is serviced might be. Even a Lexus can be improperly serviced and experience failures later on.
The OE Subaru battery on the Forester was weak, under 300 CCAs. I got one with 535 CCAs from Wal Mart for $40. It starts better now. So I'd go aftermarket.
I'm originally from the mid-west, college in MN & WI. I'm sorry, but a battery with less than 400 CCA is a joke, especially in snow country. Get real, Subaru.
Would definately go aftermarket. CR just did extensive testing across brands and sizes. Unfortunately the Group 35 size is one of the smallest, so getting a decent battery for the Forester is hard. Bigger sizes don't fit.
CR did recommend the Exide Nascar 35-84 as their top rated Group 35 battery, as I recall. I have one in the Sentra, and it's great. Alternator went on that car recently, was still able to drive to the repair shop with no worries on a full charge (topped it off before I left home).
I'll be getting one for the Forester when the OEM super 'D' size dies... Looking forward to more vigorous starting when I do...
Have any of you folks heard of the center diff in the 5MT failing before? My friend who owns a 2000 Forester S just out of the blue started getting bad binding. It would happen after the drivetrain was fully warmed up (ie. highway driving) and with the steering wheel turned all the way to lock (ie. parking maneuvers).
He took it in to the dealer and it turns out that they need to replace his center differential. Unfortunately, he's already out of the powertrain warranty so it's going to set him back around $1300 (ouch!). It's got me baffled since the vehicle has never been subject to conditions that would cause failure (ie. towing, different diameter tires).
Any theories on what happened or is it just plain bad luck?
The OB has a more powerfull battery. I can't remember off hand but I think it was in the 550cca range.... would the all-weather package make a differance with all those heaters to run? I'll have to peak under the hood tonight and double check.
it could happen. driving around for a while with the parking brake on would definitely do it. otherwise, it's a really rare problem... usually the center diff wears out and doesn't limit slip much, but they don't tend to seize.
I think it had 260 CCAs, now that I think about it. It worked OK and started her up for about 3+ years.
Ken: that's the viscous coupling. And no, I've never heard of such a failure. It's sealed and maintenance-free, so there's nothing he could have done. :-(
Are his tires all the same size, same pressure? That's the type of thing that would have caused it.
$1300? Call SoA and see if they can offer help, maybe split the cost. Or tell him to order the parts from a wholesaler, and then have his mechanic install those. Bet he could do it for $600-800. Try SubieGal or e-mail parts@libertysubaru.com for parts prices.
Has he tried the figure 8 Patti suggested to someone? Though I think that was for the automatic to break-in.
Tires all the same, pressures close enough -- it's baffling.
It's the figure-8 kind of driving that actually causes the binding. If you lock the steering wheel and roll forward, you get this "thud, thud" jerky motion up the steering column.
The dealer already called the regional tech rep for him, but no avail. I told him to at least call customer service and have a case documented. I was thinking about refering him to Patti since it's such a rare occurance, but she's still out of commision.
I'm sure if there was any symptom early on it could have been documented, but this just suddenly started.
I broke a tooth Tuesday night. I was only eating pizza so I think it really broke while I was drilling a 1 3/4" hole through 3 inches of wood to accommodate a new sub panel in my garage (rewiring). The 1/2" Milwaukee drill bound up a little and I foolishly had my face too close to it. Wham, got hit in the face with the handle. Didn't hurt that much at the time. Anyway, that prompted a trip to the dentist. Since we moved to Eureka a year ago we still use our old dentist in San Francisco (like a good mechanic... once you find one). So off to SF. 600 miles later we are back. What a great ride. Two thirds of the trip on 101 is a wonderful curvy cruise with little traffic through forest and rolling hills. What a great opportunity to test out my new Protenza RE950s. They feel great. No noticeable road noise and nice grip. Smooth as glass. I love this car. BTW, got compliments from the installer for my (OCD) freshly cleaned and rewaxed inside of the rims.
The trip back last night was fun but a little freaky as the fog was at times dense. We took it easy and there was no traffic only maybe 6 or so dear (that we saw). So I think it is time to quit procrastinating and get upgraded fogs. The fogs on the GT are not fogs. They do nothing. A while back I was contimplating replacing them with Hella MicroDEs and I think that is still what I am going to do.
Our Forester also has the AWP - makes no difference. Starts OK so far (2.5 yrs, 30k mi), just not energetic about it.
I do wonder about the load, especially with all the heaters going (seats, front wipers, mirrors, rear window, fan) with lights. Also, the electric trailer brakes can pull 25 amps I believe (alternator makes 75). Even with a Group 27 trailer battery, it's quite a wallop.
OT - Spent 2 years at Carleton College in Northfield, MN. Great school, very nice people, but the proverbial ivory tower in a wheat field. Went overseas the first time on an exchange with them, stayed a while, then transferred back to UW-Madison to finish my BBA.
Currently a MSCIT candidate at Regis University here in Denver.
Comments
-juice
I went to Pep Boys and R&S Strauss looking for front brake pads. First, both places ask if it's 14" or 15" wheels. I told them it only comes in 15. When Mike tried using the ones they sold me(for the 15"), they were obviously wrong. I finally was able to get over to exchange, but the only other one's they had were for 14". Any ideas on what to do? Can I use the 14" ones? They look close, but I don't want to take any chances.
Thanks,
Mark (one of the few working today)
Does the wind-noise sound like it could be a bad seal or are you writing about the over-all noise the vehicle transmits into the cabin? If it seams like a seal, it can be resolved like mine was (see post above.)
The glovebox? At least one other post mentions it with no resolution. I've learned to live with it. It's not major but obviously you're disappointed as I was to some degree.
My first tank of gas was close to 30mpg. All highway and flat. After that it's been closer to 27 mpg. Exactly what I expected. Frankly, the mileage you've reported seems reasonable.
My expectation was to experience some minor issues with the vehicle. I've been reading the Subaru posts for over a year across all models and fit-and-finish issues are not uncommon. My expected offset is safer driving in inclement weather, comparable reliability to Honda/Toyota (with a bit more attention to maintenance) and utility (cargo).
My suggestion is to go to the dealer and of course see if you can resolve these issues. The paint is obviously the priority, but my expectation is they'll tell you the glovebox, mileage and coin tray are all normal (in other words, no resolution). What I'd like is for you to surprise me and respond by writing there's at least a solution - the crooked glovebox.
Mega: the paint on my '98 is still quite good. Go back to the dealer, maybe for your first oil change, and point it out. They'll probably repaint the whole door.
Actually the new Camry was downgraded in reliability, and now the Forester and Legacy/Outbcak are actually rated higher. They're also higher than Civic (Accord is too new to be rated).
-juice
Don't know about the brakes, but why would wheel size matter? The rotors are 10-11" or so, not 14-15".
-juice
I found out the hardway that you can save out a lot of money changing out the seals every 60K, and the waterpump every 120K.
I have just looked at the glove box, it seems to me that the right hinge is loose. I see if I can tighten it up (not a loose screw but the hinge itself)
This after I did:
oil/filter
air filter
plugs
tranny/dif fluids
They did:
cooling system flush and replenish
brake fluid change
adjust parking brake
4 wheel alignment
Total charge was $193.00
Labor for fluids was $104
Labor for alignment $69
Fluids were $20
Couriously the alignment found the right front camber off wher I was seeing left front inside shoulder wear??? Also had them check the clutch as I (like many) get some first use chatter. They found nothing but want the car back left overnight. Seems reasonable.
bit
From my 01 manual:
Front camber -0º05' +/- 30'
Rear camber -0º20' +/-45'
From my dealer's spec:
Front camber -0º35' to 0º25'
Rear camber -1º40' to -0º10'
Front caster 2º05' to 4º05'
Rear caster -0º10' to 0º10'
After my alignment:
Left Front camber -0º15'
Right Front camber -0º15' (was -0º43')
Left Rear camber -0º13'
Right Rear camber -0º25'
Front caster 2º53'
Rear caster 2º50'
I guess my only question is does this look like they got me in OCD spec?
bit
i am wondering if anyone else has had the same problems at similar mileage.
approx 73k = oil and water pump started leaking onto the catalytic converter and consequently creating a lot of steam. $600
approx 77k = AC compressor destroyed itself. $1000
are there more problems that i should expect? should i bail on my subaru asap and get a toyota or honda?
Thanks for any input!
I had a '97 Impreza (outback sport) from new that I sold recently at 115K that had never had any repairs except the idler pulley when I replaced the timing belt. At that time I even skipped replacement of the water pump, which was doing fine.
Oil pump is internal - are you sure that was what was leaking, and not just the crank seals? The crank seals seem to wear out on this model around 100K.
BTW, the water pump is located on the front of the engine - you can see it if you lift the hood. There is no way it could leak on the catalytic converter. In fact, if it has excessive play, or if it is leaking, it would be the quickest thing in the world for you to pull it and check for yourself. You could also monitor the level of coolant in the little clear plastic overflow jug to see if it is leaking.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You gonna do the fuel filter, too? Plug wires? Those may wait until 60k.
I did the fuel filter but not the plug wires.
-juice
Oil pump? The front seals do sometimes leak, usually at 90k miles or later. The water pump and the seals can be changed when you do the timing belt at 60k. We were just discussing this in another topic.
You probably had a coolant leak onto the hot exhaust. I doubt it leaked internally, or you'd have much bigger problems.
Keep in mind your car is *nine* years old, problems will occur even if you maintain it. Wear and tear items made from materials like rubber will wear out even if they're on a Lexus. I'm talking about CV boots, axle boots, motor mounts, belts, hoses, suspension bushings, etc.
New Honda Civics are just "average" in reliability, no better than the Impreza, and Subaru offers a 67% longer powertrain warranty.
-juice
Subaru of America Announces Voluntary Recall of Certain 2001, 2002 and 2003 Model Year Vehicles with Automatic Transmission.
On November 7, Subaru announced a forthcoming voluntary recall for a possible defect in the automatic transmission parking rod. Subaru is taking these prudent measures to ensure the safety of our owners, which is our top priority. The campaign was launched as a result of finding out-of-specification parts during quality assurance testing. There have been no reported injuries as a result of this condition.
This recall affects 163,243 automatic transmissions that were installed in very late production 2001 Legacy vehicles, all 2002 Legacy, Outback, Forester and Impreza vehicles and some early production 2003 Legacy, Outback, Baja, Forester and Impreza vehicles. When the transmission selector lever of affected vehicles is placed in the "Park" position, the mechanism that is intended to hold the vehicle in "Park" may not fully engage, and the vehicle could move without prior warning. Properly applying the parking brake will prevent vehicle movement even if this condition exists.
It is important to note that less than 0.5% of the 163,243 vehicles indicated are suspected to have this condition. However, all vehicles will have the new parts installed to ensure the safety of our owners.
Repair parts should be available in January 2003. Subaru will soon mail a letter to all registered owners of the affected vehicles, advising them to always use their parking brake when the vehicle is in the "Park" position, as directed in the Owner's Manual. A second letter will be sent to owners when the repair parts are available early next year. Repairs will be made at authorized Subaru dealers at no charge to owners.
Be safe. Leo
-juice
your alignment before & after is missing toe settings. your camber may have been off on the front right, but I'd bet you had excessive toe-out on the front left if you were seeing inner shoulder wear on that tire.
-Colin
Mark
-juice
Mark
Before alignment
Left front 0º00'
Right front 0º03'
Left rear 0º04'
Right rear 0º02'
After alignment
Left front 0º05'
Right front 0º07'
Left rear 0º04'
Right rear 0º02'
I also have Cross Camber, Total Toe and Thrust Angle specs.
Juice - doing the fuel filter today.
bit
-juice
I used to get a lot of noise from the roof rack on my old Outback Sport. I removed the cross bars on my 02 WRX wagon, and it's much more quiet than the OBS. They re-install easily if I want to use them, but they are noisey. It's also easier to brush the snow off the roof with the cross bars removed.
When you put the cross bars back on, make sure the rounded edge faces forward, like the wings on an airplane. Many people put it on backwards.
-juice
Seems like a deal to me for anybody needing it any similar deals in the States?
Cheers Pat.
bit
Mike k
none of you know of any other problems i should be looking out for?l
thanks.
Gee... do you think it would give me more downforce?
Sheilin: the next most common issue is the wheel bearings. But if they're still quiet at this age, they'll likely be fine. They would have failed by now.
-juice
-juice
Romy
2002 Outback Wagon
-juice
-juice
Cheers Pat.
I also think it is worth noting that a few thousand miles later your A/C failed. The reason I mention this is that a mechanic not bothering to take the time to measure proper belt tension will usually overtighten the belts they had to remove for water pump replacement. No mechanic wants a car back in with slipping belts, so it's always a few extra tightening turns and you're on your way. The downside? Why it overstresses the bearings on the A/C, the water pump, and the alternator. Care to connect the dots with me as to why your A/C failed? Coincidence? "Aw, gee sir - that's too bad you're back in here for another expensive repair. Too bad your car is so unreliable, but we'll get 'cha back on the road (snicker)"....
So, no your vehicle is not prone to these kinds of failures, but the way it is serviced might be. Even a Lexus can be improperly serviced and experience failures later on.
IdahoDoug
-juice
-juice
Would definately go aftermarket. CR just did extensive testing across brands and sizes. Unfortunately the Group 35 size is one of the smallest, so getting a decent battery for the Forester is hard. Bigger sizes don't fit.
CR did recommend the Exide Nascar 35-84 as their top rated Group 35 battery, as I recall. I have one in the Sentra, and it's great. Alternator went on that car recently, was still able to drive to the repair shop with no worries on a full charge (topped it off before I left home).
I'll be getting one for the Forester when the OEM super 'D' size dies... Looking forward to more vigorous starting when I do...
-brianV
He took it in to the dealer and it turns out that they need to replace his center differential. Unfortunately, he's already out of the powertrain warranty so it's going to set him back around $1300 (ouch!). It's got me baffled since the vehicle has never been subject to conditions that would cause failure (ie. towing, different diameter tires).
Any theories on what happened or is it just plain bad luck?
Ken
The OB has a more powerfull battery. I can't remember off hand but I think it was in the 550cca range.... would the all-weather package make a differance with all those heaters to run? I'll have to peak under the hood tonight and double check.
Brian, (off topic) where did you go to school?
--Jay
it could happen. driving around for a while with the parking brake on would definitely do it. otherwise, it's a really rare problem... usually the center diff wears out and doesn't limit slip much, but they don't tend to seize.
-Colin
Yeah, I thought it was rare for that part to fail. I couldn't imagine he would make the mistake of driving around with the parking brake on either.
So, is the center diff synonymous with the VC? Since the problem only happens when the tranny is warm, I wonder if the VC fluid is suspect.
Ken
Ken: that's the viscous coupling. And no, I've never heard of such a failure. It's sealed and maintenance-free, so there's nothing he could have done. :-(
Are his tires all the same size, same pressure? That's the type of thing that would have caused it.
$1300? Call SoA and see if they can offer help, maybe split the cost. Or tell him to order the parts from a wholesaler, and then have his mechanic install those. Bet he could do it for $600-800. Try SubieGal or e-mail parts@libertysubaru.com for parts prices.
Has he tried the figure 8 Patti suggested to someone? Though I think that was for the automatic to break-in.
-juice
edit: Here it is: http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=269498&referrerid=767
-Dennis
Tires all the same, pressures close enough -- it's baffling.
It's the figure-8 kind of driving that actually causes the binding. If you lock the steering wheel and roll forward, you get this "thud, thud" jerky motion up the steering column.
The dealer already called the regional tech rep for him, but no avail. I told him to at least call customer service and have a case documented. I was thinking about refering him to Patti since it's such a rare occurance, but she's still out of commision.
I'm sure if there was any symptom early on it could have been documented, but this just suddenly started.
Ken
The trip back last night was fun but a little freaky as the fog was at times dense. We took it easy and there was no traffic only maybe 6 or so dear (that we saw). So I think it is time to quit procrastinating and get upgraded fogs. The fogs on the GT are not fogs. They do nothing. A while back I was contimplating replacing them with Hella MicroDEs and I think that is still what I am going to do.
bit
I do wonder about the load, especially with all the heaters going (seats, front wipers, mirrors, rear window, fan) with lights. Also, the electric trailer brakes can pull 25 amps I believe (alternator makes 75). Even with a Group 27 trailer battery, it's quite a wallop.
OT - Spent 2 years at Carleton College in Northfield, MN. Great school, very nice people, but the proverbial ivory tower in a wheat field. Went overseas the first time on an exchange with them, stayed a while, then transferred back to UW-Madison to finish my BBA.
Currently a MSCIT candidate at Regis University here in Denver.
How 'bout you ?