There's a mark or smear on my front windshield left by the passenger wiper blade which shows up whenever I use the wipers. The smear is really annoying at night when I'm using the wipers as it is in front on my line of vision. (You can see a smear line if you spray water on the windshield so its not just a mark left by the swipe of the blade). I've put on new Anco blades, used Windex and Fantastic. My dealer told me he had seen this problem before and suggested Soft Scrub applied with Ultra fine steel wool. That didn't work. I called SOA Customer Service and wasn't given a solution, but was told w/o asking that SOA doesn't consider this a warranty problem and that the person I was talking with had this problem on her Subaru. (I just want a solution). I tried using a glass scraper (razor blade plus Soft scrub. Anyone have a solution? The car is an OB with USA made glass.
A couple of weeks ago I raised my concern with the AC operating on my 2003 Legacy SE wagon when in the defrost and defrost/footwell mode, this was on the Legacy /Outback forum. Fibber2/Steve came up with a solution of inserting a switch in the circuit that controls the magnetic clutch, post #9323. The fix works perfectly, enables the AC to be controlled when you want it. Off if you want just heat and on if you want to dehumidify as well (just like the climate control on the upscale models!)
So far I only have a temporary fix in place as getting the wire from the engine area to an appropriate place in the cabin will take longer than the 15 minutes taken so far for the temp installation, but it will be done when I get a couple of hours to do the job.
In my opinion, the small window vents on the dash don't blow enough air to bother the driver/passenger but provide a valuable function of keeping the window clear in order to use the outside mirrors. Sorry it bothers you, but I call it clever, not "very poor" design. My opinion!!
I realize it's your opinion; obviously, I don't share it. The mode dial provides a selection for 'defrost'. That's the mode I would select whenever any bothersome fog is developing on my glass that I want removed - otherwise, why provide that selection? When I instead select the 'foot' mode, I don't want any hot air blowing out of any dashtop outlets - especially when they provide no shutoff! Given that there is a specific 'defrost' setting, it is utterly illogical to do otherwise. Other cars I've owned had this figured out properly.
I'm delighted that you're apparently completely satisfied with this aspect of your Forester. I am not. Judging by a number of responses from other owners, neither are they.
The rep never asked me for my name, rank or serial number, but after I explained my problem said "Subaru doesn't consider this a warranty problem". I just hoped to get a suggestion about what to do. Didn't write the rep's name down, but she told me she had a similar problem with her 03 Forester. Juice: Thanks. Have to check to see if my wife has nail polish remover.
I called and spoke with the Service Advisor at Bill Rapp. He had heard of the problem before, couldn't remember the remedy, and put me on hold while he called the dealership's detailing/new car prep people. Their suggestion was Soft Scrub w/ steel wool which didn't work for me. I had a problem with a glaze all over the windshield on delivery that took numerous trips to Bill Rapp and a year or more to fix, but that was a while ago.
Well, I found out this morning that my 2004 OBS's OEM tires (Potenza RE-92's) are USELESS on an icy road. Taking it slow and easy, but the AWD performance is not living up to its reputation. Fine tires in the dry/wet, but I guess I need winter tires.
Any winter tire suggestions? I'm mostly doing decently paved roads, so ice and slush grip is more important than going thru 12 inches of snow. Looked at TireRack...looks like $100/tire for most things. That price about right? I really didn't plan to spend $400+ right before Christmas, but these tires are not going to work here in NW PA. Help!
My 2001 LLBean was delivered with the right wiper set too far up. It stopped its upward swipe right in my line of vision and barely sat on the wiper heater elements. Asked for it to be adjusted but the service manager said the adjustment teeth were too big and if it was moved the wiper would go off the windshield. I believed him for almost 3 years. He was fired several months ago...
So, a couple weeks ago I decided to check the wiper. Sure enough, it was very well-designed with extremely fine adjustment teeth. I re-adjusted the arm and now it is set the way it should have been in the factory.
Now I have two smears - one at the old upward stop and one developing at the new upward stop. I always thought this was old wax build up from some trips to the car wash. I have it big time where the left wiper stops its upward swipe - large enough patch to make a squeaking noise. Iso. alcohol won't remove it, but I'm going to try the nail polish remover and/or the soft scrub/fine steel wool methods. Will report results...
Sure glad I have only little things to worry about when it comes to the 51K+ Beaner (knock on plastic wood)...
Dead simple just undo the caliper mount, two bolts hold each one to the rear knuckle then pull the rotor off, may be a little rust in the centre where the rotor is on the hub just give it couple sharp raps and it should fall off.
BTW make sure the handbrake is off when you are removing them.
you can't go wrong with the Blizzak WS50 or the Arctic Alpin.Have had those on 3 Legacies. If you don't ever want to change your tires get the Nokian WR (only etires.com seems to sell those on the internet but they will last much longer than the other 2 and you can run them in the summer whereas the others will have zero tread after a summer!).Got the WRs predecessor, the NRW on my Legacy now. Unless you drive like a nut I wouldn't bother getting H rated winter tires like the Blizzak LM22 or the Pilot Alpin. Though they are much nicer on dry roads. Got the LM22 on my WRX. But then I do drive like a nut in that car! Or as I tell the better half, I don't speed, I just reach the speed limit rapidly! The RE92s are awful in the snow after they have lost any tread.
Dan, I use the Blizzak ws50 on my Forester. I highly recommend them. Once you drive your Subaru with a good set of snows you won't go back to all seasons.
Here's my off-beat recommendation- for winter only, a good studdable tire is the Goodrich Winter Slalom and install a half set or full set of studs. Half studded snow tires on a car with ABS will stop about as well as a non-ABS car with a full set of studs. In the worst conditions-ice and snow packed and icy, no tire will stop better than a tire with studs. Just watch your rear view mirror for the driver behind you who can't stop as well as you! The full studded Winter Slalom including mount and balancing is about $90. Roy
I found one (14mm made by Stanley Proto) at a local Grainger distributor (on the web at Grainger.com). The Snap-on tool guy also had one but his was twice the price.
Well the system has been flushed and the coolant changed but I'll be darned if the check engine light didn't just come on. Everything seems to be running fine. Oh well! I think I'll drive it for a while and see what happens.
Getting suggestions from other places as well, and the Blizzak ws50 seems to be the popular choice. Is it worth it to get cheap steel rims and permanently mount them rather than putting them on my alloy wheels? Tires are expensive enough, but I'll bite the bullet for steel rims for some benefit, if there is one.
I put Dunlop Winter SPort M2's on my Legacy GT and they are superb in bad conditions and also handle better in the dry than the original Potenzas. I mounted them on the original rims and got a set up WRX rims for my summer tires.
If anybody can provide some answers to my questions below regarding my 02 Outback Limited w/manual transmission, I will really appreciate it.
1- I use Mobil 1 exclusively but I have a hard time getting a good reading from the dip stick. I do my own oil changes and I always refill to approx 4.2 quarts of oil, including a Purolator oil filter. After I drive the car for a few days, I pull out the dipstick to check it. If the car has been sitting on a flat surface, the dipstick shows approx 1/2 inch of oil (1/2 inch from the tip/bottom of the diptsick). Oil covers the whole tip of the dipstick. This is before wiping it clean.
After I wipe it clean, I re-insert the dipstick all the way in and pull it out to check on it. Now the dipstick shows oil ONLY on the edges, a little less than before, less than 1/2 inch. I am not sure how to interpret this reading.
The car seems to run fine, no overheating/good temperature, no warning lights, ok mileage, etc.
When I change the oil, the catch pan has at least 4 qts of used oil.
Is anybody else having a hard time reading their dipsticks? Or is this dipstick not very well engineered or positioned?
Could I be really low on oil even though it doesn't 'feel' like it? Any input, suggestions?
2- The famous vent issues. I read from another poster about the not being able to direct the flow of air completely from defrost, upper body or feet. There is always residual air coming out from the other vents. Is there a fix for this?
3- My battery is showing some traces of fluid leakage on the outside. There are white sediment trails on the sides of the battery. Is the battery leaking or cracked? Are batteries cover under the 3/36 warranty?
4- I am also experiencing the smudge areas on the windshield visible only when the wipers are wet and make a pass. I did not notice this problem before.
Parts replaced previously under warranty:
1- Clutch has been replaced with the 'improved' one. No more buckling.
2- Left, exterior side mirror, gusset has been replaced. No more annoying and excessive wind noises while driving
My driving style and habits are pretty sedate. No burning rubber or jack rabbit starts.
Just for additional info. This is my second Subaru. Still have my first one, an 88 GL Wagon with the original clutch, engine, manual tranny. No problems aside from the regular maintenance issues.
Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions,
Way to go, told you it was not too hard, it is always a boost to your confidence when you tackle something for the first time and win, thats how we all learn, next thing you attempt you will less unsure about having a go.
The front pads on my OB are getting thin. Does Subaru have any kind of sounder/marker on the pad to let me know when it's time to change? Anybody know how much new OEM pads cost? I may pick up a set to have on hand when the original pads finally bite the dust. Also, how much are OEM rotors??
Dan- There is a benefit to having your snows mounted on a set of dedicated snow tire wheels. Mounting & dismounting your tires every fall & spring is hard on the tires. Not to mention costly.
It's very costly if you use a shop that won't hurt the rims... Expect at least $60-80 every switch.
And if you go to costco, wal-mart or crappy tire and then notice that the lip of your aluminum wheels are all chewed up-- well, you get what you pay for.
Buy a second set of wheels. Steel works for many older models, aluminum for newer or if you just want something nice. Those old Legacy turbo 15x6.5 wheels were great...
There is a squealer on the Subaru pads but if they getting thin replace them now if you go OEM they are very cheap, aftermarket pads such as Hawk or Axis are more expensive but much better than OEM.
Dan by all means get a second set of cheap steel rims and mount your winter tires permanently, apart from the fact that the rims could be permanently damaged the tires most certainly will sustain bead damage after being mounted and dismounted twice, you could probably pick rims up for around a hundred bucks.
You will probably spend close to that for one mount dismount including balancing.
IIRC I paid about $50 per axle for OEM brake pads mailordered from 1stsubaruparts.com. (I think the price is available on their website.)
Actually, I called them and confirmed the prices for everything and sent them Subaru bucks for the parts as they are a dealer in Washington state. They had the lower prices on the west coast.
OK folks, lots of good advice there. I hadn't thought about my OEM rims getting chewed up, but I can see how it could happen. What the heck, in for a dime, in for a dollar, right? Thanks much for all your help.
Via I club I got a barnd new set of tires and rims for my Legacy from a WRX owner. Many of them will swap the OEM rims/tires and sell them. I paid $400 for a set, good deal.
Yeah, I have the full set of OEM takeoffs from my WRX, only 3000 miles on them. After I see how this first winter goes with my new 17" summer tires, I may sell the old set -- they're eating up valuable garage space. In my part of VA, I don't have to worry about snow/ice too much, and I have another car I can drive in bad weather. But, I'm curious to see how the summer tires do in cold weather on dry roads. So far they have been OK down to about 35 deg. Granted, I haven't driven on a skid pad or anything, but they seem OK in regular driving so far. If I detect any issues with the summer tires, I figure I'll put the stock 16" set of rims/tires back on so I can continue to enjoy my WRX through the winter! Since I'd only be able to sell them for $400 or so, it may be worth more to keep them.
Those old Legacy turbo 15x6.5 wheels were great...
...and they fit nicely on our '02 Legacy L. :-)
Costco has mounted tires for us a couple of times, I've never noticed damage. And I would notice - I was the rims each time I rotate them. So a low price does not necessarily mean shoddy work.
One thing is all my tires are 60 series, i.e. not low profile. If I had a 40 or 45 series tire, I'd probably look for a specialist. In fact, some places even charge more if the tire is very low profile, because it's harder.
But...I wonder if they use better equipment, or if that is to pay for insurance, LOL!
as a farmer, I deal with (way) too many batteries. If the battery hasn't been overfilled or you haven't been doing wild bumpy driving, the acid accumulation outside a vent cap is a sign of overcharging on one or more of the individual cells. Aside from a regulator problem, the usually culprit causing overcharging is one or more cells in the battery that are failing, causing the remaining good cells to "boil" from excessive charging. The overall battery never comes up to the "full" condition because of the weak cell(s), and the regulator continues to pump juice into the good cells.
Don't be surprised if your battery fails after a few more hours of driving.
If it's more than, say, 3 years old, just go ahead and replace it proactively. You don't want to wait until it fails completely and you're stranded somewhere, especially since it happens when it's the coldest.
9 quarts? the 2000+ MY AT must have gotten smaller.
Here's info I have for a '98 OB which takes 10 quarts which, maybe, might help.
The automatic transmission pan holds about 4.5 quarts of fluid. If you're draining from the pan, that's about what will come out. You'll get about another 4 to 5 quarts out if you flush the torque converter.
Buy 6 quarts of new ATF. Check the old fluid before draining to verify that it's full. Drain the old fluid and measure it (take an old gallon milk jug and mark it at 1 quart (or 1 pint) intervals). Pour the same amount of new fluid in. Fool proof and beats adding 8 oz, checking, add another 8 oz, checking, etc.
All, I have a 2001 LLBean. First Subaru and love it. I would like to change the cabin air filter myself, (behind the glove box?). And am looking for the how-to.
I am moderately handy, but don't ask my wife; she'll disagree! Thanks, Dan
OK, I am officially fed up with my dealer. In addition to the letter I was planning regarding my poor dealer prep (scratch on dash, dirty razor blade on top of the car from scraping stickers off car, sticker still on the roof rails, small paint scratch on pass. door and an overall dirty car) I am livid about the followup acessories.
The sales manager gave me a due bill for additional parts (arm rest, rear diff protector, air filter) and told me I'd be called this week to arrange an appt. I called (after five business days) and they were clueless, then she said she'd leave a note for thh girl who writes the parts orders. No responsibility taken, no ownership of this issue taken by the sales manager.
And to top it off, I realized today that my sunroof rattles when it's open. Sounds like a loose wire above the rear passenger headliner. Anyone else have this problem?
I love my car, and feel I got a good deal, but this dealer's service sucks and the roof deal is just flat out annoying.
Are there any addresses at Subaru where a complaint can be filed that won't fall into a void? Thanks so much for your advice/opinions/knowledge.
Comments
So far I only have a temporary fix in place as getting the wire from the engine area to an appropriate place in the cabin will take longer than the 15 minutes taken so far for the temp installation, but it will be done when I get a couple of hours to do the job.
Thanks again Steve.
Gordon
I realize it's your opinion; obviously, I don't share it. The mode dial provides a selection for 'defrost'. That's the mode I would select whenever any bothersome fog is developing on my glass that I want removed - otherwise, why provide that selection? When I instead select the 'foot' mode, I don't want any hot air blowing out of any dashtop outlets - especially when they provide no shutoff! Given that there is a specific 'defrost' setting, it is utterly illogical to do otherwise. Other cars I've owned had this figured out properly.
I'm delighted that you're apparently completely satisfied with this aspect of your Forester. I am not. Judging by a number of responses from other owners, neither are they.
-juice
Thanks - sorry about the handling!
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
Any winter tire suggestions? I'm mostly doing decently paved roads, so ice and slush grip is more important than going thru 12 inches of snow. Looked at TireRack...looks like $100/tire for most things. That price about right? I really didn't plan to spend $400+ right before Christmas, but these tires are not going to work here in NW PA. Help!
-Dan-
So, a couple weeks ago I decided to check the wiper. Sure enough, it was very well-designed with extremely fine adjustment teeth. I re-adjusted the arm and now it is set the way it should have been in the factory.
Now I have two smears - one at the old upward stop and one developing at the new upward stop. I always thought this was old wax build up from some trips to the car wash. I have it big time where the left wiper stops its upward swipe - large enough patch to make a squeaking noise. Iso. alcohol won't remove it, but I'm going to try the nail polish remover and/or the soft scrub/fine steel wool methods. Will report results...
Sure glad I have only little things to worry about when it comes to the 51K+ Beaner (knock on plastic wood)...
:-)
Ralph
BTW make sure the handbrake is off when you are removing them.
Cheers Pat.
-mike
If you don't ever want to change your tires get the Nokian WR (only etires.com seems to sell those on the internet but they will last much longer than the other 2 and you can run them in the summer whereas the others will have zero tread after a summer!).Got the WRs predecessor, the NRW on my Legacy now.
Unless you drive like a nut I wouldn't bother getting H rated winter tires like the Blizzak LM22 or the Pilot Alpin. Though they are much nicer on dry roads. Got the LM22 on my WRX. But then I do drive like a nut in that car! Or as I tell the better half, I don't speed, I just reach the speed limit rapidly!
The RE92s are awful in the snow after they have lost any tread.
Chuck
Well the system has been flushed and the coolant changed but I'll be darned if the check engine light didn't just come on. Everything seems to be running fine. Oh well! I think I'll drive it for a while and see what happens.
Phil
-Dan-
The worked fine with some ugly 7 spoke hubcaps. Not as ugly as naked black steelies thought!
-c
1- I use Mobil 1 exclusively but I have a hard time getting a good reading from the dip stick. I do my own oil changes and I always refill to approx 4.2 quarts of oil, including a Purolator oil filter. After I drive the car for a few days, I pull out the dipstick to check it. If the car has been sitting on a flat surface, the dipstick shows approx 1/2 inch of oil (1/2 inch from the tip/bottom of the diptsick). Oil covers the whole tip of the dipstick. This is before wiping it clean.
After I wipe it clean, I re-insert the dipstick all the way in and pull it out to check on it. Now the dipstick shows oil ONLY on the edges, a little less than before, less than 1/2 inch. I am not sure how to interpret this reading.
The car seems to run fine, no overheating/good temperature, no warning lights, ok mileage, etc.
When I change the oil, the catch pan has at least 4 qts of used oil.
Is anybody else having a hard time reading their dipsticks? Or is this dipstick not very well engineered or positioned?
Could I be really low on oil even though it doesn't 'feel' like it? Any input, suggestions?
2- The famous vent issues. I read from another poster about the not being able to direct the flow of air completely from defrost, upper body or feet. There is always residual air coming out from the other vents. Is there a fix for this?
3- My battery is showing some traces of fluid leakage on the outside. There are white sediment trails on the sides of the battery. Is the battery leaking or cracked? Are batteries cover under the 3/36 warranty?
4- I am also experiencing the smudge areas on the windshield visible only when the wipers are wet and make a pass. I did not notice this problem before.
Parts replaced previously under warranty:
1- Clutch has been replaced with the 'improved' one. No more buckling.
2- Left, exterior side mirror, gusset has been replaced. No more annoying and excessive wind noises while driving
My driving style and habits are pretty sedate. No burning rubber or jack rabbit starts.
Just for additional info. This is my second Subaru. Still have my first one, an 88 GL Wagon with the original clutch, engine, manual tranny. No problems aside from the regular maintenance issues.
Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions,
Eug
-L
Seems odd, usually the levels go down, not up. I had to add distilled water. The overspill dried to a white stain, as you describe.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
-juice
Craig
Chuck
And if you go to costco, wal-mart or crappy tire and then notice that the lip of your aluminum wheels are all chewed up-- well, you get what you pay for.
Buy a second set of wheels. Steel works for many older models, aluminum for newer or if you just want something nice. Those old Legacy turbo 15x6.5 wheels were great...
-Colin
Dan by all means get a second set of cheap steel rims and mount your winter tires permanently, apart from the fact that the rims could be permanently damaged the tires most certainly will sustain bead damage after being mounted and dismounted twice, you could probably pick rims up for around a hundred bucks.
You will probably spend close to that for one mount dismount including balancing.
Cheers Pat.
Actually, I called them and confirmed the prices for everything and sent them Subaru bucks for the parts as they are a dealer in Washington state. They had the lower prices on the west coast.
Jim
-Dan-
Craig
...and they fit nicely on our '02 Legacy L. :-)
Costco has mounted tires for us a couple of times, I've never noticed damage. And I would notice - I was the rims each time I rotate them. So a low price does not necessarily mean shoddy work.
-juice
I choose not to take the risk!
-c
One thing is all my tires are 60 series, i.e. not low profile. If I had a 40 or 45 series tire, I'd probably look for a specialist. In fact, some places even charge more if the tire is very low profile, because it's harder.
But...I wonder if they use better equipment, or if that is to pay for insurance, LOL!
-juice
Don't be surprised if your battery fails after a few more hours of driving.
John
-juice
-juice
Alland
Here's info I have for a '98 OB which takes 10 quarts which, maybe, might help.
The automatic transmission pan holds about 4.5 quarts of fluid. If you're draining from the pan, that's about what will come out. You'll get about another 4 to 5 quarts out if you flush the torque converter.
-Dave
Jon
DaveM
I have a 2001 LLBean. First Subaru and love it. I would like to change the cabin air filter myself, (behind the glove box?). And am looking for the how-to.
I am moderately handy, but don't ask my wife; she'll disagree!
Thanks, Dan
-Dennis
OK, I am officially fed up with my dealer. In addition to the letter I was planning regarding my poor dealer prep (scratch on dash, dirty razor blade on top of the car from scraping stickers off car, sticker still on the roof rails, small paint scratch on pass. door and an overall dirty car) I am livid about the followup acessories.
The sales manager gave me a due bill for additional parts (arm rest, rear diff protector, air filter) and told me I'd be called this week to arrange an appt. I called (after five business days) and they were clueless, then she said she'd leave a note for thh girl who writes the parts orders. No responsibility taken, no ownership of this issue taken by the sales manager.
And to top it off, I realized today that my sunroof rattles when it's open. Sounds like a loose wire above the rear passenger headliner. Anyone else have this problem?
I love my car, and feel I got a good deal, but this dealer's service sucks and the roof deal is just flat out annoying.
Are there any addresses at Subaru where a complaint can be filed that won't fall into a void? Thanks so much for your advice/opinions/knowledge.
Is it correct to assume that the battery should be covered in the initial bumper-to-bumper, 3/36 warranty period?
Note: I am also going to paste my original message, 2092, in the Sub Leg/OB Prob and Sol. board to see if anybody else can comment on the oil issue.
Thanks again,
Eug