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I quote from hitskyfam's post. The dealer did not clear any codes because there WERE NO codes stored. I'm getting weary now.
I got good news! I just received a reply from GM. These are their exact words: “There will be a service fix available in the near future for the rear sunshades (...) as we are currently designing a permanent repair for this concern."
There is a hope that it will come soon and there will be no longer startling from the shades.
I was searching the internet to build a case that this is a common defect in the 1997 malibu, does anyone know of documented history of this problem that I could use when I try to get GM to pay for the $680 cost to replace the compressor?
It wouldn't be so bad to just pay to have it recharged each year, but now that the hole allowing the leak is larger, I don't know if the recharge will continue to last all summer.
There is no special fuse for just that gauge. If any connector was off underhood I would expect that the Check Engine Light would come on as well.
Is the temperature gauge always displaying cold??
It would be very easy for dealer to read data from engine controller and see what temperature is being read by the engine coolant temperature sensor. If the gauge isn't following this temperature then instrument cluster would need to be replaced.
Yes, the guage was at the very bottom when not working.
One other question for everyone (BuMaxx owners): My temp guage (when working) sits just above the middle line. Is this where everyone else's sits when fully warmed up? I think it is kind of high, and I have never owned a car which operated at this level. I know this is still within operating parameters, but I still want to see where everyone else's guage reads as normal.
Glenn Butzlaff
When It goes in for the recall, I'll have the dealer look at it.
I believe that a problem with the coolant sensor or its wiring has to be seen on 2 ignition cycles for the Check Engine light to turn on. However, even on the first occurence a fault code would set (if this was the problem). Do you actually take vehicle to dealer or just talk to him on the phone?
The service manager said that it should be OK to drive it since the guage was not connected to the sensor which ultimately decides when my fan should come on/off. He also said there was not much he could do with it working since neither the DIC nor CEL indicated a problem.
Your new radio is likely messing up the signal which is causing the speedo problem and may somehow also be goofing up the Tachometer. So please re-check your wiring. You will find that this DK-GN/WH wire is smaller size than the speaker wires (it was originally in cavity 16 of original radio connector).
There is a Dark Green wire (without a white stripe) for the Right Front Speaker return.
If you find the wire with white stripe just tape it back unused.
Good Luck!!
When I bought my Maxx in February, I registered it in www.mygmlink.com. When the shades started to open and the plastic bent out of its shape, I send an e-mail to GM from mygmlink.com account with a description of the problem and my complains.
I received an answer by e-mail and talked to the person on the phone. They assigned the reference service request number and told me to take the car to the dealer. I called my sales person and talked to him about this problem too. I took the car on Sat. to the dealer to show him. (Service dept. doesn’t work on Sat.)
They ordered the part and I took my car for the “repair.” The dealer did not replace the part, but called GM who “advised not replace any part at this time. GM is working to resolve concern and will notify dealership when concern can be resolved (per case number # and dated 6/22/04).” This is a cited formal note from my service papers. Then I sent another e-mail to GM with a complain about the headrest (no action from GM this time) and asked them about the rear shade again (see reply in msg #105).
Maybe when we complain to GM and dealerships at the same time, we will get what we want and they will not tell us that nobody else complained, and this is the first time they hear about this or that.
Almost all front wheel drive vehicles don't have a transmission. Because the final drive is incorporated into the same cast aluminum housing as the transmission it's properly referred to as a transaxle, the transmission and drive axle in one unit.
Re the noise you mention, this TSB from GM might cover it:
ASI Resolution - Growl or Howl Type Noise From Transmission/Engine Compartment During Light to Moderate Acceleration from a Stop (Replace Drive Link, Drive Sprocket and Driven Sprocket) #04-07-30-021A - (Jul 2, 2004)
2004 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx
2004 Oldsmobile Alero
2004 Pontiac Grand Am
Built After January 16, 2004
with 4T45E Automatic Transaxles (RPO MN5) Built Between Julian Date 4016 and 4126 and
3.4L or 3.5L V6 Engine (VINs E, 8 - RPOs LA1, LX9)
This bulletin is being revised to include a repair procedure and parts availability information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a growl or howl type noise during light to moderate acceleration from a stop. This noise is load and engine RPM sensitive and will occur between 1500 RPM to approximately 2300 RPM. The noise is most noticeable in first and second gear. The noise may dissipate prior to the 1-2 shift, but will be noticed again in second gear depending on the load and engine RPM. The pitch of the noise will change during the 1-2 shift.
Cause
The noise is due to the new 5/8 inch drive link assembly being at a resonant frequency during certain driving conditions.
Correction
Important
Only RPO MN5 transaxles built between Julian date 4016 and 4126 have 5/8 inch drive link assemblies. Refer to Transmission ID and VIN Derivative Location, SI Document ID #760312 for Julian date location information.
Follow the service procedure below to replace the 5/8 inch drive link and sprockets with a 7/8 inch drive link and sprockets
etc, etc, etc.....
When I start it in the morning the idle may go as high as 2500 rpm. The idle may stay at this speed or it will sometimes drop down to the 750 rpm level. If it does not drop, when I stop and re start the engine it may idle at 750 rpm. I have checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the (IAC) idle air control. I have checked for problem codes but nothing comes up.
Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what the problem is?
Thanks Ralph
Has anyone done any work underhood on vehicle who might have taken something apart? This is waaay too detailed but here goes:
Initial thought is this sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. A couple of the easier things to look at:
PVC tube to be unplugged from rear valve cover
-or-
Leaks in airflow system at either end end of the crosscar duct at throttle body on engine or the mass airflow sensor (by air cleaner).
Final one would be brake booster vacuum check valve but that one is too tricky to look at yourself
2nd thought:
Check if this has anything to do with A/C being ON at start-up (do some vehicle starts when you know that the A/C is off and see if any different).
Sometimes the A/C system might have a higher initial load if refrigerant goes into liquid state after car has sat for a while.
Glenn Butzlaff
David: any insight you can share with us??
if you havent already signed up. www.mygmlink.com
register your VIN..and send in the emails with the problem..I did and they worked the rear shade issue..probably will not see a immediate re-engineer of them..but if the case file gets big enough...they might...would say the same for the temp gauge...Ive been fortunate and not had the problem...registers right at the halfway mark or a tick above it...all the time...maybe a sensor or guage problem....but at least be persistent...the GM customer service folks were very nice..and chased me down to insure I was a happy customer..worth a shot
7937 is correct about function but likely that is not a fob problem in his/her case but something that receives the fob information. Your issue sounds to be radio related.
If this is happening this regularly it might be interesting for you to switch to the other key fob and see if the problem continues. It doesn't really prove where the problem is but would be very interesting if you could repost with results.
- To transmit the stations stored in the fob to the car, press "unlock" on the fob.
- To store the stations saved in the radio to the fob, turn off the ignition.
I have found it's less confusing to keep the presets on both fobs the same. An easy way to do this is take both keys with you to the car, start the engine, verify the presets are correct, turn the ignition off; then repeat with the other key.
If you DO want different preset stations on the two keyfobs, remember to press "unlock" before you start the engine. Otherwise, you'll be starting with the other set of preset stations; and they'll automatically be stored in the fob when you turn off the ignition, overwriting the ones you wanted.
Once every 6 months or so I transfuse my coolant by siphoning the coolant overflow tank dry and refilling with Dexcool. I don't think it is too wise to leave the same coolant in for 5 years or 150,000 miles. Also, the coolant level must never be allowed to go below the fill mark on the overflow tank. Follow these simple procedures and you'll never have trouble with Dexcool.
I buy Havoline Dexcool from Wal-Mart and although I cannot remember the price, it is not much more expensive than standard coolant. The dealer will of course ask you more for it and quote a GM number. The fact is that Havoline makes it for GM and it states on the Havoline container that it is GM approved.
I've had no problems with my car until around 30k. At highway speeds, I can feel the car stutter. The engine light comes on and there are misfires that are coded. It has been in the shop 8 times for the same fault. They have replaced about everything electrical, flushed the injectors, etc. Still doing it.
Help?!
Mitch
When you say they have replaced just about everything electrical, can you be more specific?
I am going to assume they have replaced the plugs, but let me know for sure. How about the ignition control module...used to be the distributor. Spark plug wires are often assumed to be good, but can fail. You may be getting "crossfire" or arcing between adjacent plug wires. Will it fail at a high speed..say 2000+RPM's when not in gear? I ask this because if there is arcing, you may be able to see it at night by racing the engine and looking around in darkness under the hood.
You may also have a fuel pressure problem at higher speeds. Perhaps your fuel filter is partially clogged and not flowing enough fuel at highway speed. You could also have a bad fuel pump that is not putting out enough pressure and starving the engine at 2000+RPM.
Thats about all I can think of at the moment. I'll add more if I think of anything else.
Don