Hi I own a 2002 malibu I have had 2 problems in 3 years ignition cylinder replaced once and required an update once until yesterday. PW stopped working, heater air cond blower stopped working, radio only works on acc when ignition is on radio and clock loses power, rear defog doesn't work, temp guage and fuel gauge stopped working. Checked all fuses they look okay. I was wondering if it was a relay, ignition or a computer problem, or something else. Service dept can't look at it until July3
dont feel bad...christina...I did the same thing..then realized it was the fob..swinging against the console....even with the little rubber cushion in place to prevent it...LOL
I am curious. Did you have your tires rotated? The owners book states that the lug nuts should be torqued to 100 foot pounds. I had a Cutlass that had warped rotors and the nuts were over tightned and that was the cause of the rotor problem.
the paint by the window in my 2004 Maxx is coming off. It's not the shiny paint on the car itself, it's the dull paint around the window. I just brought it in and the shop said Chevy had no fix for it and until they do it has to stay the way it is. Have any of you had this same experience with the paint coming off. My shop said this was the 2nd car he's seen with this problem.
I have a 2004 Malibu LS with 18,100 miles (April 2004 build date-last 6 of VIN 209856). I've had no problems with this vehicle until last Friday when the "Check Gas Cap" message came on the DIC. I checked, and the cap was on tight. I have also filled the tank since the first time the message has appeared. It's been a week (approximately 14 engine starts) and the message still appears. Is it time to go to the dealership? The service adivsor I talked with told me to wait another 2 weeks? (Although I have yet to find a good Chevrolet dealer where I live). What do you recommend? The manual says the message should go away after 2 or three starts.
Since you have a sedan, you wouldn't have the Maxx-specific complaint others have which is covered by a TSB.
I agree with your service advisor to give it a little more time (although you say when you checked the gas cap, it seemed tight). The manual is a little too optimistic about number of starts because that would only happen if each start was done under conditions where the vehicle would run another diagnostic check.
That check won't occur every ignition cycle unless certain conditions are met:
Ones somewhat under your control: Fuel level between 15-85%, coolant temperature <86 deg F and underhood air temp between 40 and 86 deg F.
Basically test will only run if the vehicle has cooled down overnight and fuel tank isn't too empty or too full. So filling the tank after message first came on prevented the test from running for a while until fuel level dropped below 85% (which is somewhere between 7/8 and 3/4).
If the test fails twice in a row you will see the Check Engine Light turn on - has that happened? It takes 3 passes in a row for the message to turn off (I think).
I have a 2003 malibu and when i put the key in the ignition the key will not turn. I had this problem last summer and after letting the car sit for a few hours i was able to turn the key and start the car. Now it will not work. The users manual says it needs service. What is the problem. Thanks in advance for any help.
The key wouldn't physically turn in the ignition switch? Or is it that it turns but the engine just didn't crank?
If the first thing then I hate to ask this but do you have more then key that you are using?
If it is turning and just not cranking, if you leave the ignition key in RUN do you see the security telltale staying illuminated - which means you are in a THEFT condition?
mondo1: i don't own a malibu or a GM. i complained to the people at edmunds because they don't clearly indicate a "certified" vehicle isn't necessarily a vehicle that is of any better quality than a non-certified vehicle. this is what i conclude from the certified vehicle forum on edmunds. i was surprised to learn that you are paying a premium for an insurance package for the vehicle. again - this is what i conclude. what are the terms and conditions of your purchase? i would think you can exercise your warrenty or what ever benefit you paid for with the certification and get the dealer to address both issues. you know an air filter at a parts store is going to be relatively inexpensive and probably something you could DIY if you had to, but obviously, the brakes need to be right because it is a safety related matter. perhaps the system needs to be bled, or you have a master cylinder issue or something. a second opinion might provide you leverage.
My 2004 Maxx had the same problem ... The paint was coming off of the small black panels at the rear of the rear windows. I reported it to my dealer who sent me to his paint shop for their examination, and he checked with GM. I was hoping they would touch it up. When I returned, they had replaced the panels (which are easily removed from the inside). THE IMPORTANCE OF A DEALER WHO CARES... Edwards Chevrolet in Birmingham, AL.
Be sure your wheels are torqued correctly to avoid rotor warp.
The GM Dealer I took my Maxx to had gotten them all wrong (manual says 100 ftlbs - lugs on all 4 wheels ranged from 60 to 120 ftlbs). I'm hoping the warpage was "elastic" (with wheels torqued right, the rotors would then return to proper shape).
my squeal sounds like it is coming from the front and its a low speed braking like city driving. its not loud but loud enough to hear it, its not constant either it will only last for a few seconds. i was told by gm that it is normal because of the semi metallic material used, but my question is how will i know when my brakes are getting bad if the squealing is already here. thanks for the answers on the clicking and some nice suggestions about the fob but i took everything off except the key in the ignition and it still does it. and what is a goot time frame until brakes need changing i have 11,000 miles.
you are kidding yourself. I've had my rotors turned at the dealer. I also rotate my tires myself, hand tightening the lug nuts. There is no way I am over tightening them; nonetheless, my rotors are as bad as ever. Once they heat up, they hate hard breaking going down hills. These rotors are cheap; plain and simple.
I saw some recent posts regarding warranty coverage for brake rotors. GM has a TSB (00-05-22-002E, last updated March 05 to add 2005 model year vehicles) which extensively explains all the brake service procedures, what's covered and what's not. Rotors are covered on the 3/36 warranty. However, for pulsation complaints, they will only refinish the rotors, until they are below minimum thickness, then they must replace.
I have an 04 Maxx LS. Had tires rotated by dealer at 6K miles. Developed brake pulsing at 9.5K miles. They refinish all 4 rotors and problem was fixed. Dealer rotated tires at 11.5K miles. The brake pulsing came back again around 15-16K miles. Will be going in for service soon and expect they will refinish the rotors again.
The TSB explains, that rotor thickness variations caused by lateral runout can be induced when uneven torque is applied to the lug nuts when tires are rotated. Pulsation resulting from excessive lateral runout usually develops within 3-10K miles. A torque wrench must be used when tightening the lug nuts when tires are rotated. If only the dealer has rotated the tires, GM must cover the problem. If tires were rotated outside of dealer, GM will not cover the repair. I will be discussing this with my service advisor as my pulsation problem developed after each tire rotation. I am concerned if they resurface the rotors again, I will be stuck paying for new rotors after the 3/36 warranty is up.
I have always rotated tires but after reading several articles, I decided this was the car that I would not rotate tires. I would see how the tires wore and what the total mileage is when I need tires. I will factor the cost of rotation and see what I perceive the savings to be weighted against the earlier need for tires. I will replace all four tires at the same time regardless of the thread left on the rear tires. I have a heavy foot and tend to replace tires sooner than needed. My father was an engineer for Uniroyal and I often listened to him discuss rubber composition, contruction, sidewall stress , the effect of heat on rubber, etc - etc.
I have not had any problems with my brake rotors squeaking or with pulsation. I have 17K+ on the car and the tires do not show any noticeable wear.
In 76000 miles, I have had many problems that my mechanic says are common to this car. Replaced brakes at 30000, head gasket at 50000 (will happen again since bolts torqued to 10 ft-lbs on 3.1 L engine), alternator replaced twice, and most recently A/C switch, blower motor resistor (speeds 1 and 2), and a sudden failure of front spring ($800, not including tow). :mad: :lemon: I have been a loyal GM customer for 33 years, but due to chronic KNOWN problems like this, I just bought a Hyundai with 60000 mile bumper to bumper warranyt, and 100000 powertrain warranty. I like to keep my cars for a long time!
My 1998 Malibu has a problem where the brake light actually melts in the socket, preventing proper connection. I used some bulb socket grease the last time, hopefully that works.
This is another chronic problem. The springs are plastic coated, and once that coating is broken, the spring can corrode and fail suddenly. I'm surprised that your mechanic didn't replace the front springs as a pair, as mine did 2 weeks ago (1998 Malibu). This is a chronic problem.
I studied as mechanical engineer and metal can be elastic. But sounds like the Maxx Rotors are not - and yes, the problem seems to be worse when the rotors heat up.
I won't be letting dealers rotate tires anymore. Sounds like that causes nothing but trouble with this car. As for whether or not GM will fix my now warped rotors in time to beat the 36K mile limit, that remains to be seen.
Since many time, it's possible to downshift or upshift with the switch. When i stop the car and i restart all return ok. But i'm very lucky... like many owner; my dealer told to me: It's the first time i see this problem..... laugh
We had an 04 Maxx and the rotors warped at about 15,000 the car had a lot of other issues and GM repurchased it. :lemon: We bought an 05 Maxx and had to have the rotors turned at 820. But no other issues so far we love this car and its versatility. Can someone tell me the birthdate of my car the last 6 on the vin is 227338. Thanks
If the people with brake or rotor problems haven't figured it out with the 500+ posts on the problems they probably never will. The answer to posting #2068 with the multiple problems all at once was the ignition switch. Labour, parts, shop supplies and taxes brought the repair bill to $434.00 Canadian. Incidentally the service dept. had to call GM which refered them to a case number and suggested that they remove and replace ignition switch. I hope this info helps someone looking for a solution to a problem other than brakes and rotors
Yes, brake issue is well covered. ConsumUnion lists two major Malibu weaknesses - brakes and electricals.
For those who just got their Maxxes and/or had their tires rotated, run, do not walk to your friendly auto store, get a torque wrench and make __sure__ those wheels are torqued right. The rotors you save will be your own.
Getting near 25K miles on mine; interior trim is behaving itself, no electrical problems so far (fngrs x'ed), getting about 24 - 26 mpg for mixed freeway/in town driving, paint and trim holding up ok (have not seen rear window trim paint flaking), lots of tiny specs in windshield from our LA dust and dirt, am having real trouble getting replacement wiper blades (guess one has to replace entire blade as hardly anyone sells inserts any more - GM's inserts cost more than an entire hi-qual aftermarket blade!).).
On 04 Bu/Maxx For those that have had their front headrests swapped for new design or wind deflector installed on sunroof per TSB, did your dealers charge you, or were the parts/labor covered under warranty?
I made appt next week for service on my 04 Maxx (maint2, brake pulsing again, left pull, A/C performance check). My SA said I most likely would have to pay for headrests/deflector. He said these TSB's are informational only to offer solution for customers with complaints. He said GM does not automatically pay for all TSB work done during initial warranty period.
I just discovered the inside hood release is not working and I have a dead battery. Does anyone know how to open the hood without using the release. I can't start the car to take it to a mechanic, because I can't jump the battery without opening the hood. Any ideas?
OK I don't want to sound stupid but why did you have the front headrests replaced, how do you receive TSBs and how do I find out about the defelector?This is the first I have heard of a problem. I am new to this forum. Thanks for any assistance.
Type HEADRESTS into the 'search this discussion' box below and read all the posts. When you have a few hours free, you might find it worthwhile to start with Malibu Forums post #1 and read through the next 2100. There's lots to learn.
First I will assume you are out of warranty, otherwise you could call GM roadside assistance.
I have done this on another GM product. Take a screwdriver with a long shaft. Lay under the car with a flashlight and locate the hood latch. You should see the cable leading into the latch. Gently push up on the cable until the hood pops. You might want to put a little duct tape over the screwdriver blade so as to not damage the cable.
Flow Chevy in Winston-Salem NC told me the same thing at 11970 miles. The brake pads were already worn down to the wear sensors. The brake warranty was for up to 12000 miles. As it got worse, they still wouldn't fix it so I took it to a brake shop. The brake shop said the pads had been nearly shot for quite a while and wondered why I hadn't taken the car in before 12000 so it could be handled under warranty. At 104000, I am on the 6th set of brakes, 4th set of rotors, second intake manifold gasket, second ignition switch assembly, positions 1 & 2 on the fan blower have never worked from day 1, etc... !!!
Thanks for the info I have been reading most of the older postings, how do I find out about the TSB's when they come out? Where do I go to get that information?How do I find out the build date for my car. It is an 05 Maxx LT vin 227338.
seems to be no coherient way for customers to get all this info. Some TSB's can be found at the nhtsa website. A number have been commented on here in these forums, but you have to scroll through them.
a few kind GM folks have also posted information here for us to refer to.
Ironically, the DEALERS often don't know what these TSB's are and may refuse to look them up or bother with them.
You can find recent TSB's for free at www.alldata.com/tsb. But you have to read each one to determine if it applies to your vehicle. If you know the number they are listed on the index page. This site has a separate link for each page of a TSB and they only show the text. Once alldata removes the links from this page, you can register with www.alldata.com for a fee to see the ones specific to your vehicle, but it takes them a year or more before they are available this way for new model years.
Another good site which I use is www.infotraxx.com. For a small fee (I believe it's 12.95/yr) you can see all current and future TSB that apply to a specific vehicle. If you add more vehicles they are 8.00 each. This site has them in PDF format and you can save them on your computer for future reference. These appear to be exact copy of what manufacturer issues and all pages are stored in a single file.
Hello. This is my first time visiting this forum, so I don't know if this problem has been addressed on here before.
I am having a new problem with my 2000 Malibu LS that just started today. It happens when I try to start the car initially. I turn the key, and the engine cranks, but it doesn't seem to turn over. When I release the key, the there is a noise that sounds like the engine is running, but it seems like its still trying to "catch" to start up. I try to see if the engine is on by trying to rev up the engine, and it doesn't work. It has happened twice today, both times were when I had driven the car somewhere, ran an errand, and came back to the car in about 10-20 minutes to go somewhere else.
Note, this isn't the same (as far as I know, but they could be related as far as I know) as the (in)famous theft system problem (which I also have from time to time). Plan on taking it to the dealer either tomorrow or Monday. Any hints/help is appreciated so I can point the mechanics in the right direction.
I was curious how you calculated the build date from the last 6 digits of VIN... Do you mind telling me how you did that? The last 6 digits of my Maxx LS is 103391. Thanks!
I've had a squeal in my brakes since about 8,000 miles on my 2004 Maxx. The GM service center has attempted to fix the brakes 4 times with no success. They've replaced pads, milled, and replaced rotors with ceramic. They still squeal when starting to slow down. The dealer has now called GM and I was wondering if this has happened to any of you. I have read many of the posts with similar issues, but haven't been able to find anyone that has successfully found a solution. What will GM do? Thanks
e2helper has access to the build sheet, I have a build sheet for my Malibu and Sonoma, long story. Lots of good stuff on it like all the warranty coverage.
Your right its loaded with information, a current build sheet will show all warranty work done on the vehicle. I got it from a source I no longer have access to, sorry.
Comments
Thanks in advance. This is a great group.
Since you have a sedan, you wouldn't have the Maxx-specific complaint others have which is covered by a TSB.
I agree with your service advisor to give it a little more time (although you say when you checked the gas cap, it seemed tight). The manual is a little too optimistic about number of starts because that would only happen if each start was done under conditions where the vehicle would run another diagnostic check.
That check won't occur every ignition cycle unless certain conditions are met:
Ones somewhat under your control: Fuel level between 15-85%, coolant temperature <86 deg F and underhood air temp between 40 and 86 deg F.
Basically test will only run if the vehicle has cooled down overnight and fuel tank isn't too empty or too full. So filling the tank after message first came on prevented the test from running for a while until fuel level dropped below 85% (which is somewhere between 7/8 and 3/4).
If the test fails twice in a row you will see the Check Engine Light turn on - has that happened? It takes 3 passes in a row for the message to turn off (I think).
Hope that helps
If the first thing then I hate to ask this but do you have more then key that you are using?
If it is turning and just not cranking, if you leave the ignition key in RUN do you see the security telltale staying illuminated - which means you are in a THEFT condition?
The key will not physically turn.
The GM Dealer I took my Maxx to had gotten them all wrong (manual says 100 ftlbs - lugs on all 4 wheels ranged from 60 to 120 ftlbs). I'm hoping the warpage was "elastic" (with wheels torqued right, the rotors would then return to proper shape).
thanks
I have an 04 Maxx LS. Had tires rotated by dealer at 6K miles. Developed brake pulsing at 9.5K miles. They refinish all 4 rotors and problem was fixed. Dealer rotated tires at 11.5K miles. The brake pulsing came back again around 15-16K miles. Will be going in for service soon and expect they will refinish the rotors again.
The TSB explains, that rotor thickness variations caused by lateral runout can be induced when uneven torque is applied to the lug nuts when tires are rotated. Pulsation resulting from excessive lateral runout usually develops within 3-10K miles. A torque wrench must be used when tightening the lug nuts when tires are rotated. If only the dealer has rotated the tires, GM must cover the problem. If tires were rotated outside of dealer, GM will not cover the repair. I will be discussing this with my service advisor as my pulsation problem developed after each tire rotation. I am concerned if they resurface the rotors again, I will be stuck paying for new rotors after the 3/36 warranty is up.
I have not had any problems with my brake rotors squeaking or with pulsation. I have 17K+ on the car and the tires do not show any noticeable wear.
I have been a loyal GM customer for 33 years, but due to chronic KNOWN problems like this, I just bought a Hyundai with 60000 mile bumper to bumper warranyt, and 100000 powertrain warranty. I like to keep my cars for a long time!
This is a chronic problem.
I won't be letting dealers rotate tires anymore. Sounds like that causes nothing but trouble with this car.
As for whether or not GM will fix my now warped rotors in time to beat the 36K mile limit, that remains to be seen.
Do you can help me about this problem ?
Since many time, it's possible to downshift or upshift with the switch. When i stop the car and i restart all return ok. But i'm very lucky... like many owner; my dealer told to me: It's the first time i see this problem..... laugh
Thanks :sick:
For those who just got their Maxxes and/or had their tires rotated, run, do not walk to your friendly auto store, get a torque wrench and make __sure__ those wheels are torqued right.
The rotors you save will be your own.
Getting near 25K miles on mine; interior trim is behaving itself, no electrical problems so far (fngrs x'ed), getting about 24 - 26 mpg for mixed freeway/in town driving, paint and trim holding up ok (have not seen rear window trim paint flaking), lots of tiny specs in windshield from our LA dust and dirt, am having real trouble getting replacement wiper blades (guess one has to replace entire blade as hardly anyone sells inserts any more - GM's inserts cost more than an entire hi-qual aftermarket blade!).).
For those that have had their front headrests swapped for new design or wind deflector installed on sunroof per TSB, did your dealers charge you, or were the parts/labor covered under warranty?
I made appt next week for service on my 04 Maxx (maint2, brake pulsing again, left pull, A/C performance check). My SA said I most likely would have to pay for headrests/deflector. He said these TSB's are informational only to offer solution for customers with complaints. He said GM does not automatically pay for all TSB work done during initial warranty period.
I have done this on another GM product. Take a screwdriver with a long shaft. Lay under the car with a flashlight and locate the hood latch. You should see the cable leading into the latch. Gently push up on the cable until the hood pops. You might want to put a little duct tape over the screwdriver blade so as to not damage the cable.
Good luck.
a few kind GM folks have also posted information here for us to refer to.
Ironically, the DEALERS often don't know what these TSB's are and may refuse to look them up or bother with them.
Another good site which I use is www.infotraxx.com. For a small fee (I believe it's 12.95/yr) you can see all current and future TSB that apply to a specific vehicle. If you add more vehicles they are 8.00 each. This site has them in PDF format and you can save them on your computer for future reference. These appear to be exact copy of what manufacturer issues and all pages are stored in a single file.
I am having a new problem with my 2000 Malibu LS that just started today. It happens when I try to start the car initially. I turn the key, and the engine cranks, but it doesn't seem to turn over. When I release the key, the there is a noise that sounds like the engine is running, but it seems like its still trying to "catch" to start up. I try to see if the engine is on by trying to rev up the engine, and it doesn't work. It has happened twice today, both times were when I had driven the car somewhere, ran an errand, and came back to the car in about 10-20 minutes to go somewhere else.
Note, this isn't the same (as far as I know, but they could be related as far as I know) as the (in)famous theft system problem (which I also have from time to time). Plan on taking it to the dealer either tomorrow or Monday. Any hints/help is appreciated so I can point the mechanics in the right direction.
Thanks
however I can not seem to find it.
Can someone tell me where to find it.
Thanks
Thanks!
6/17/2004
The dealer has now called GM and I was wondering if this has happened to any of you. I have read many of the posts with similar issues, but haven't been able to find anyone that has successfully found a solution. What will GM do?
Thanks