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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair
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I have a 93 Chevy K pu with a 350. The truck is great until summer when I drive it at highway speeds going up hills. As the engine warms (mid range) the engine starts to knock. It gets louder and louder until the engine power starts to fade. Some times it is so bad I have to pull over and wait for it to cool. Once cooled off the knock is gone. I have changed, plugs, cap, rotor, wire, cat.converter, exhaust, knock sensor, thermostat. It is definately heat related. it never happens in the winter. I think the knock sensor is the part but i changed it already. I don't know if there is more than the one screwed into the side of the block. The truck runs great every day except for hills when it is hot outside. I have owned since new, truck is in great shape 83k miles. Any help would be appreciated.
Left the house after about 4 miles the engine just shut off while I was driving down the road. I looked under the hood, everything looked okay, oil, coolant etc. I hadn't hit a gas station in a week or so I don't think it's bad gas.
Anyway I got where I was going started it back up about 30 minutes later and it did it again. I mention to roll into a parking lot waiting a few minutes. Turned it on again put it into drive and waited a few minutes as soon as I hit the gas engine stopped again.
I just left it there, a friend of mine gave me a ride. I came back the next morning ready to call a tow truck. It started right up and I drove back home. It hasn't done it since.
I left it with a mechanic today he he hooked up the diagnostic computer and said everything was fine.
Any ideas?
Another thing which I think is unrelated, when I take off I hear a strange noise coming from the engine. My best description is the sound you here when your using a straw and your out of soda. Just thought I'd throw that one in there. The mechanic wasn't sure what it was he just mentioned tearing the whole engine apart?
I have a 302 in my '69 Econoline that knocks when it is hot, but it does not tend to make extra noise on hills.... I even had a valve stem break in relation to it, but the valve stem bent so the valve didn't fall into the cylinder. I just pulled the lift rods and spark plug and ran it on 7 for the last 1000 miles of the trip; power sucked because it was the #1 cylinder but it made it - amazingly, mpg wasn't really affected.
Haul lots of cattle trailers, hay trailers, etc......recently had what I assumed was a shock rattling under left side, rattles only when hit bumps. Bought new GM issue shock.....same noise.....thought maybe bad luck was with me on new shock, so took shock from right side to left, new shock to the right side..........still have the rattle.........that makes three different shocks and still have that rattle.
Annoying as it can be...........anyone have similar experience?...........thanks
Please Help
Severely Stumped
Secondarily, I get a 'system not responding' when I try to read and reset the codes, any ideas on this one?
I've a 90 C/K Pickup - standard cab, long bed. My taillamps were not functioning properly. Replaced all 6 bulbs. Some work, some don't. Decided to do some research. Discovered that the taillamp holder assembly corrodes and is a common problem among these pickups of certain years. Replaced BOTH right and left taillamp holder assemblies. Now they both work just fine. Still have one problem!!! The right taillamp - all 3 lights come on with no problem. The center bulb (the one that acts as a taillight, brake light and turn signal in one) - works fine except it won't light up when using brakes. Won't flash the bulb when using turn signal. BUT it will come on as a taillight. What to do?? The left taillamp works perfectly... brake light comes on, turn signal works fine. I figure it could not be the brake light switch since it works on the left. Could it be turn signal switch? Relay?
Please help.
Thanks,
Jason
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks
about 3 inches in diameter and have a tab that snaps into a hole in the leaves. Two of my pads were missing. I made homemade replacements from some plastic material I have in my shop and voila, cured. Since that time I have been checking out other people's 2500s and many if not most have one or more pads missing. Seems to be a design flaw. Easy to replace.
Steve
Any luck on the check engine light/erg code issure? I am having the same problem with my '93 Z71 with a 350 engine. Was it the erg valve or something else? Thanks
Chris
If I set the timing as suggested, it has no power. I mean, this thing will ping at the lightest hint of acceleration under load. However, if I set the timing as suggested, then turn the fuel air mix off and 1/2 turn, and finally adjust just until the idle runs smooth, I can retard the timing about 5 degrees and it runs like a champ with no "dieseling." The idle is not quite as smooth with the timing retarded, but overall the truck runs better. After a tank at 55 mph, I pull of about 13 mpg (307), normal driving nets me 11. If I set the timing as suggested I can get up to 14 at 55 mph, but it takes me forever to get to speed and pings on every hill unless I back waaaaay off.
There is not a whole lot of vacuum on this truck (no EPA stuff in '69), but what is there is working fine.
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kcram - Pickups Host
I also have a problem with dieseling how do I adjust the feul air mix?