Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My Highlander continues to have periodic issues where it will not down shift. This happened to me again this morning on my way to work. While it is not a consistent problem, I'm finding it to be extremely dangerous. I cannot safely merge with traffic on the highway because it WILL NOT DOWNSHIFT. Today's circumstance: I was slowly accelerating in 5th gear at about 55 miles an hour having just merged from the ramp onto Southbound US 202. I wanted to move into left lane of faster moving traffic, and when I tried to accelerate as I moved into the next lane, nothing happened. I stomped the pedal to the floor, and nothing happened. I released the pedal and stomped it to the floor again, and nothing happened. I moved the transmission stick into tiptronic and pushed back to downshift, and nothing happened. I did it 4 more times and nothing happened all with the pedal all the way on the floor. Then finally, after 10 seconds or so, the car decided to downshift. This is ridiculous and dangerous. It has repeated this at least once per month since I bought the car.
I appreciate any input forum members can provide. Thanks.
Dealer checked for leaks, etc., and said things are okay. I plan to take it back to the dealer, but I would appreciate suggestions and input, etc.
"Pre-emptively" disabling downshifting into those first two lower gears with high engine output, or even while turning somewhat tightly is now also a part of the modern day FWD and/or F/awd vehicular design "mix".
I don't often drive our 92 Lexus LS400 but when I do I immediately notice a big difference in the shift pattern between it and our '01 RX300. In the LS as I brake to a stop the transmission will downshift just prior to coming to a full stop requiring a bit more pressure on the brake pedal.
Our F/awd RX300 gives the impression of an upshift, discontinues fuel cut coastdown mode, at just about the same point when braking to stop and then only downshifts into 1st once the RX has come to a full and complete stop.
Just as I should have expected, just as it was at 40,000 miles, my RX's ATF was dark brown and smelled burned. I have checked it at every oil and filter change, on the average twice a year, and up until now it appeared to be okay.
Drained 4.5 qts inclusive of the diff'l drain, and re-filled with 4.5 qts of factory specified ATF. As I did before at 40,000 miles I will repeat the drain and refill in a week or so.
Observations....
As I drained the ATF it was not so hot dripping on my hands and fingers as to be really discomforting. I had just driven it about 25 miles and then directly into the garage to drain. I have the practice of draining engine oil this quickly so that any particulates will remain in suspension and be drained along with the oil.
The engine oil is always HOT and quite discomforting so given that the ATF is clearly showing signs of being over-heated, burned, I find this somewhat surprising.
My conclusion is now more firm in that I believe the heating, OVER-heating, of the ATF is localized, most likely ATF pump, and so the extra external cooler, tow package, my RX came with is probably useless since I don't tow.
I remain fully expectant that my transaxle will fail before reaching 120,000 miles at which point I will repair and the RX will become a R/awd vehicle. SOLID drive coupling to the rear and an early VC, '99-'00, for coupling in the front drive.
Thanks for your input!
DS
From where...?
The Toyota dealer will charge me ove $1300 to fix ($128 Parts, $1,200 labor).
Thansk though.
DS
Depending on the leak "rate" it might be a lot cheaper to just refill it once in awhile.
Any success with Toyota repairing under warranty since it is just past the 60000 miles?
I have a 2005 Toyota Highlander awd v6, and am having problems. Went to start car, and battery seemed dead. Didn't respond to a jump, and had the battery replaced. I can now start the car and get it to move, but can't get the rpms to go over 2 (essentially, won't accelerate). The radio, windows, thermometer all work, but can't get the car to really "go."
Any thoughts?
http://www.toyotapart.com/Transmission_Fluid_Or_Gear_Oil_Seepage_TSB013810.pdf
Does the 2011 HL 6 cyl have a transmission dipstick and tranny drain plug? I was told that the 2011 camry 4 cy has no dipstick and the salesmen said there was no drain plug.
thanks, rr70
Thanks,
Chris
Hope it lasts.
Upon having intermediate service done the dealer advised the transmission seals were starting to leak. The powertrain warranty had expired. I was quoted $1275 to reseal the transmission. I am having a hard time wrapping my mind around this failure with so few miles.
I contacted Toyota Customer Support and was advised there was no TSB for transmission seal leaking for 2wd models. The rep was able to track my records and made a comment that he saw I owned two Toyota vehicles (Highlander and Lexus IS300). I was instructed to give the rep 1 day to investigate this matter and see if the repair can be done at 50% off (I would need to pay the full cost of the repair then submit a reimbursement claim).
I hope Toyota addresses this matter in my favor.
I decided to get a second opinion at another Toyota Dealership to check the transmission seals. I was advised the transmission seals were not leaking but the transmission pan gasket was seeping and needed to be replaced with repairs costing $250.
It appears the initial dealership was quoting charges for unnecessary repairs.
I sent a letter to Toyota Customer Relations advising them that I saw the dealership as an extension of Toyota and that they have accomplished a great disservice to me as well as damaging the reputation of Toyota.
I don't believe the second dealership that provided me an accurate description of the problem (the mechanic showed me the cracked gasket and seeping transmission fluid around the gasket seal) as well as providing the correct quote for repairs will be punished by Toyota.
I suspect Toyota is more interested in the dealerships meeting their sales quota then responding to my letter. In fact I would be very surprised if Toyota took this matter seriously.
But I learned a valuable lesson on trusting my instincts, saving money on a unnecessary repair job and identifying a dishonest dealership.
In fact, you can compliment them in our Dealer Ratings and Reviews section.
Thanks
I have a Garmin SatNav with Ecoroute HD so can monitor speed and engine speed very precisely. I have a 2004 Kluger V6 AWD with well worn tyres.
At 2,000rpm, speed is 110km/hour (68mph) in locked overdrive. With overdrive off, it rises to about 3,000rpm.
That suggests that 60mph should be about 1,750 to 1,800rpm with overdrive on.
Regards
Graham
I am experiencing the exact same issue now. However mine is periodic and can be corrected if I turn the car off and back on. Were you ever able to get this issue corrected? I am anticipating a shift solenoid on the valve body. AT 4000 dollars to repair it is not worth it.