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I have not picked up on the abbreviations yet. What does MFD mean? And for that matter what are some others?
ICE = Internal Combustion Engine
EV = Electrical Vehicle (or more usually EV mode = running purely on battery power)
FE = Fuel Economy
Heretical Mode = when one of the electrical motors starts going backwards to generate power while the other one is poewring the wheels, ICE is running but the FE becomes 50-80 MPG depending on speed of the car)
Advice to maximize?
10 miles is a very short trip, mostly rural also reduces the opportunity to take advantage of the EV mode, and if you don't get a place to stop for 7 seconds, you will not get into 'mode 4'. Also CC is good on flat land, but one of the worst things in hilly terrain.
Things that could help.
- get an engine block heater and plug the car in about 2-3 hours before you leave. That way the car will be up to normal operating temps within a mile.
- after the temp gauge has reached full operating temp try to stop for 7 sec. The engine will turn off and you are in mode 4 which lets the TCH shut down and you can run in EV mode. If the engine shuts off immediately after stopping, the the engine is not up to full operating temp yet.
- If you have hills, and they don't have to be all that steep, use your foot and ease up on the gas as you are getting to the top of the hill. This gets the eCVT computer to start reducing the revs with taller gearing.
- always be gentle on the gas pedal
Same issue in Phoenix. My summer average this summer has been 31.8 MPG, whereas my lifetime in this car has been about 34.1.
The average for the times of the year when I don't use A/C or heater are about 37 MPG.
Nothing wrong with your car - just physics taking it's toll.
I discovered that trick, but I am reluctant to "go kart" the vehicle with left foot brake and right foot throttle. A panic situation might make me push the wrong foot, if I am not consistent.
What I am thinking about trying is to find the output from the computer that is denergizing the ignition, and by-passing that output with a manual switch, probably located on the console, so I can keep the engine running when I want.
The reviews say the Fusion Hybrid does a better job of seamless start and stop, so you could trade for the Fusion.
One specific question: Two sales reps at the dealership told me opposite things last night. One said to never shift to "B" for downhill, and one said to always shift to "B" for even slight declines to charge up battery and help maximize mpg.
Also wondering if I have to change my driving style. I always drive about 5 miles over the speed limit in good driving conditions if the flow of traffic is rolling with it, and I tend to accelerate to get around clusters on the freeway rather than hang out behind them. Gonna have to change my ways?