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Suzuki Wagon Electrical Problems
Having an electrical problem with your Suzuki wagon? This is the place to work it out.
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Thank you for your help.
Change antifreeze engine light come on.
I have 73,000 miles, and I drive on highway between 70 to 80 MPH. no major problems. :P
THANKS!
-d
I bought a new [2007]Suzuki wagon last spring and noticed it pulling to the left the first time I drove it on the highway.
I'd also started noticing that the warning lights on the dash for brakes and battery would come on sometimes. Not all the time, just come on for a while and then go off.
I mentioned it to the guys in the service department when I took it in for alignment and after they worked on it, the warning lights stopped coming on.
For a while. But then they started doing it again and I thought it was an electrical malfunction until a month or so later, when my car's battery died while I was driving it.
The car had started with no problem and kept going while I drove on the highway, but when I slowed to exit it seemed to lose power and went completely dead shortly after I got off the exit ramp. The guy who came out from TripleA tried to jumpstart the battery and it would start up, but then it wouldn't hold the charge even long enough to drive it up on the tow truck. At the dealership they said it was just a bad battery [said there are a few bad ones in every batch.] They put a new one in and the car seemed to be working fine -until last night. It's only been two months and I've been extra cautious, since they replaced the battery, to be sure no lights were left on, etc., so there must be something else draining it. The warning lights on the dash were coming again and I kept thinking I'd better get it into the shop again but kept putting it off. I work by appointment doing massage therapy and need a big car for my equipment. It's hard taking the time to get it to the dealership and sometimes they don't have a big enough loaner car available, etc.
Shouldn't have to be taking a brand new car in for repair so much. It is my responsibility, as a disabled vehicle in the road is a danger to myself and others; but I'm wondering at this point if the problem is going to get resolved by taking it to the dealership again tomorrow. I've heard they're not very good with electrical problems.
Is there something that causes a car battery to die while you're driving it, as opposed to it not wanting to start up, which is the usual sequence of events?
Thank you for taking the time to listen and (please:) give me some advice.
Lynn
ronnie
uh, good luck.ronnie
1) Residential phone system. Every few months, I would get no dial tone from any of my phones. The solution presented by my phone company was to unplug everything, wait for the company's equipment to reset the breakers, then plug everything back in. One day, the problem got so bad that I went to the local big box hardware store, bought wire, a network wiring book, a polarity tester, new jacks, and junction boxes. Found out that the problem was related to the polarity - the electricity through the 'phone wires were simply running in the wrong way. After running new wire to certain parts of the house and cleaning up the connections (originally put together with electrical tape and plastic twist terminals), everything has worked fine since. I helped a friend solve a portion of his problem when he could not get DSL service.
2) Fuse problem. This was a cakewalk: My mom was buying fuses very few days for a certain circuit in the house. I asked around, and realized that the replacement fuses being bought didn't have as high an amperage rating as the original. A purchase of a fuse that had a 10A-difference rating solved the problem.
If you want to do this on your own:
The simplest thing to do is to make sure that the amperage rating of the replacement fuses that you're buying matches the original.
The other step (and you MUST have a good background in automotive tech), you'll have to find a electrical diagram of your car (time-limited e-subscriptions are available via Suzuki USA's web site) and a powered probe/meter device available from you local hardware or specialty electronics shop. Start testing the connections between the dash and taillight circuits and other circuits that should NOT cross-connect until you find a fault.
PLEASE DO NOT TEST THE AIRBAG/SEATBELT RESTRAINT CIRCUITS UNLESS YOU'VE DISCONNECTED THE DEVICES FIRST!!!
Otherwise, please ask the auto shops in your area for a recently-certified ASE tech with a lot of electrical experience and patience. I speculate that your mechanic gave your car back because of either a realization that the problem:
a) has a life of its own, and deliberately hides until you reclaim your car (I've
experienced this w/others for different electronics);
b) probably will exceed your ability to pay for the time and resources needed to fix everything properly;
c) exceeded the mechanic's set of skills and resources needed to resolve the situation.
Nope, I'm not an electrical guy. I "play" with technology to see how things work.
-d
Has anyone tried to do this? If you've changed the tint of the display, your input is valued, also.
-d
However, that's only a small piece of it. The centre brake light in the middle of the tailgate window doesn't work unless I have the car idling in neutral, then sometimes it does but not always. The brake lights on either side at the back work fine. BUT the reverse lights in the tailgate don't work either. They are on, but so dim they are not useful for anything - you have to cup your hands around them to see that they are on at all. The bulbs in these have been replaced with only a marginal improvement.
The car also has a problem with run-on, which I've been told could be connected to my having bought the car at sea-level and now am driving it at roughly 500m above sea level? The car runs fine, but these little issues pile up and start to annoy. The run-on thing can be an issue - I can have my key out of the ignition completely and it will still be running until I take my foot off the brake which causes it to make an unhappy noise and shudder to a stop (which I try not to do). What the?....
There are no Suzuki dealerships anywhere near my small BC town, and I don't want to go back out to Vancouver to get it looked at. Any suggestions? I'm also a student and too broke right now to sink much money in. I'm wondering if other people are having these problems and whether or not anyone's made a stink about it. The car is only seven years old - it seems a bit ridiculous to have this many electrical things going wrong in a car so young. Unfortunately, none of these problems were apparent during the test drives or the pre-purchase inspection (we knew about the reverse lights and were assured that it was likely an issue of the bulbs needing replacement which we now know is not the issue.)
Any idea about the run-on issue? I've been told it may also be an issue of the engine running too rich?
Thanks again for your help - it's really appreciated.
The only thing I can do is try to take off the inner rear door panel to see if I can pull the releas mechanism. The drivers manual has no release listed for the hatchback just the sedan. I am hoping I can get it to open .
any thoughts
If you truly can't open the door manually from the key slot on the hatch that would imply that a control rod in the lock mechanism has loosened significantly, keeping you from opening the hatch conventionally. There are two anchors and some bolts that help hold the plastic trim to the hatch located along the edges of the hatch door (I also looked at my car to confirm the locations), and are very hard (if near-impossible) to get to while the hatch is closed. If the hatch simply isn't stuck in place by the rubber trim, you'll have to start (argh!) cutting into the hatch's interior plastic cover to get to the lock mechanism.
I hope I dont have to cut the panel But I am not far away from trying that.I will try that when I get off night shift.
I will let you guys know tommorow night thanks very much
md
thanks
md
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Howzabout the generator? Did you have it tested? If you had the battery tested after each failure, and it is outputting less than 10 volts, the generator might be the problem.
I had all the same problems.
Right Side of the car, under the back right side window, under the carpet and plastic, you have a bunch of connectors there, one of them is a two connector pair.
It was all brown instead of yellow, because of the heat of a faulty connection to the defroster, backup light, and all that.
It gets pretty hot even when the connection is good.
The ground is the black with silver spots cable.
Reconnected them properly and it works perfectly now.
Thanks for the hints people !!
Med
My wife has a Suzuki wagon R+ W reg, automatic, about 13000 mile on the clock.
she left the boot ajar last night and drained the battery. . From the interior light being left on. Jump started it this morning fine however when we went to take it for a run we notice that none of the gauges are working, speedo, rev, fuel nor mileage. But when we turned the engine on, the start up lights work e.g. battery light, oil light etc. Clock and radio and exterior lights work. How can I fix this? Thanks