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We had it in to be serviced, and our Honda dealership mechanic told us they saw nothing wrong with the car, but they deglazed the belts. They thought this might help the problem, but if it doesn't then we will have to replace the belts at $140 each. Our Honda mechanic also went on to tell me to avoid driving in puddles and/ or don't drive in the rain. I thought that was the most absurd thing I have ever been told by a mechanic! How am I to avoid driving in the rain???!!! I said that to him, and he didn't have much of a response.
Anyway ... has anyone else experienced the noise we have had with our car. Any thoughts on what exactly it might be? I don't think I am getting the full answer from my dealership.
Thanks,
Shannon
I had to use a lot of force to put it back to Park. It seemed to stuck inside the transmission gear box (Brake pedal and push button were fully pressed).
I bought this 96 CIVIC last month, I did notice the gear selection was not smooth. I had lubricated inside gear selection box, but it did not help.
I am afraid one day, I would be able to drive in reverse only.
Any helps to identify the problem/fix would be greatly appreciated.
Don't sweat too much yet, as that switch shouldn't be a big job to replace.
Any suggestions?
1.When the car reaches 50Kms/hr and above it feels like a lot of noise inside the car (like truck driving, or zooming noise)
2. When i start the accelerator slowly initially, i can feel some cranky noise like some fluids moving kind of noise and goes off when the car picksup. It is a very faint noise.
I am new drivier, so dont know anything about cars.
Please help
With car turned off, press the 1 and 6 radio preset buttons. Turn on car, serial number will scroll by on the display. Hopefully this works on yours.
Thanks for the instruction. But I tried and no serial number showed up when I started the car. Somebody told me that I will need the serial number of the radio but to get it I have to take the radio out, is that correct?
If I assume that what the dealership said is correct and they didn't find anything major wrong with it (so tried deglazing the belts), then probably the next step is to replace the belt with a new one.
While you have the old belt off, I would turn each of the accessory pulleys by hand, to see if you can detect one of those pulleys binding or have a bad bearing. My suspicion is that you may have an accessory going bad, which is putting a strain on the belt, and what you are hearing is that secondary symptom.
If you are not handy to do this job yourself, I would get it to a competent shop.
The manual says something about the trunk only opening with a master key, and I'm pretty sure the two keys we have are not valet keys.
Anyone have any ideas?
need help.
I will try and sum it up for you as best as I can. The car problems started about a year ago. My husband replaced the radiator with a brand new radiator from NAPA. However, he did NOT replace any of the hoses. At the time I did not realize this was a big NO NO. I do a lot of road trips and I took a 8 hour road trip a month after the radiator was put in. Well, on my way back [three hours from home] my car over-heated. I blew a hole in one of the hoses. The car got so hot, it shut itself off. I had to be towed. I know your asking yourself, was all my hoses replaced now. NO!
About three weeks ago, same situation only I was 10 minutes away from home. I blew another hose.
Yesterday, my car was waiting inline at my son's school and it started sputtering. Next thing you know it is smoking. My husband said it is blowing oil out the cap. There is no oil in the water and there is no water in the oil. I have over 200,000 miles on the original motor. I need to know what could be wrong before my husband totally destroys my car. Please help me!!!
For what it is worth, this was probably your original problem all along....which caused your radiator to leak to start with, then your hoses to blow out (the next weakest thing), etc.
I just do not see how. I live in the mountains of NC but most of my driving is done on four lane hwy either to and from work or driving to Atlanta to catch an airplane.
How responsible do you guys feel the dealership that sold this to me is?
How many oil changes did you have from 52K, to the oil change at 65K?
Many autoparts chains will read this free of charge.....or you can by an inexpensive reader and read your own error codes.
You'd have an O2 sensor right before the converter, then the converter, and then another O2 sensor after the sensor. It might be worth replacing the first sensor before having to tackle the converter. They are monitored by the computer, which then adjusts the intake fuel mixture to get the appropriate burning of gases.
Does anyone know where is the fuel filter for 2004 civic EX? I 'm trying to change the fuel filter but can't locate the darn thing
Thanks
I have a 1994 Honda civic dx with approx 158xx miles on it.(automatic) The car never gave me problems until just recently...Ok here it goes....When ever i start the car it trys hard to start and then about after 7 seconds it starts. Then it starts shaking and vibrating really bad. When i put ti in reverse it vibrates alottt and then it shuts off. When i put the car on drive i have to be driving pretty fast without even stopping a ltlle or the car shuts down. When driving it vibrates and the exhaust vibrates with it aswell with a llittle smoke coming out. When i am going to a stoplight i have to put the car on neutral because if i do not the car will shake really bad and then shut off. I can never keep the car on D whenever i am stopping like i usteo because it will shut off...everyone said the timing may be off i do not know! :confuse: :sick: Yeah my car needs help! I was just thinking of replacing the motor but people say it is fixable...Please anyone that knows about cars or hondas tell me what you think is going on!!!!!!
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
My civic started running hot a couple of weeks ago when I stopped moving or got stuck in traffic. It would never actually overheat just run a lot hotter then normal. I also noticed that the heater wasn't blowing hot air. Having had an accord previously with a cooling fan that went bad that is the first thing that I checked. I used a jumper wire to send 12v directly to the fan and it seemed to work just fine. I decided to check the fuses/relay/and cooling fan thermostat but happened to notice that the radiator seemed a little low on fluid so I filled it up and let the car sit in the garage to warm back up and put a meter on the thermostat and relay to see if they were working properly. However, after letting the car run for a half an hour the car would not run hot and the fan never would kick on. I thought that maybe the car had just been low on anti-freeze so I stopped there for a couple of days. A few days later the problem would start again and I would check the level and it would be low and again I would fill and check the heat and it wouldn't overheat. Then it started this week again. I thought that maybe there was a leak somewhere but can't find any radiator fluid on the floor of the garage or when I park at work, yet still the fluid level drops every few days. I don't know if it is related, but it seems to be burning more oil in the past few months than it used to.
The past couple of days however, every time I started the car or let it idle it started making more of a rumble or missing noise. This morning I didn't think it was going to stay running long enough to pull it out of the garage. It also seemed to lose power when I did get it going. Then when I got stuck in traffic it started running hotter then ever before so I pulled into a parking lot and the car actually overheated. Not wanting to damage it I had it towed back home. So, now I am staring at the engine trying to figure out where to start.
I know this is a long post, but wanted to give as much info as possible. I would appreciate any advice. I would have had it taken to a mechanic, but the money for that is not available to me right now.
Thanks in advance.
1) the brake switch (Good All brakes lights works)
2) the shift-interlock solenoid (Looks good and clean)
I have removed the center console and look at all of the connectors and solenoid and they all look good. Why can prevent power going to the center console? Any relay that need to be replaced? All of the wires look good and they are connected. I am not getting any power going to shift-interlock solenoid.
Please help! I've checked all of the fuses and they all look good.
Have a compression test done on all the cylinders, to see if one (or more) are reading low. If so, you'll need to have some upper engine head work done on it.
It 'could' be that the fan is bad, but better to spend some diagnostic time/money to repair the correct thing.
Is the radiator full of coolant, as well as the overflow tank? Is the fuse okay? If you put a digital voltmeter across the power feed to the fan when it's hot (and the fan should be running), do you have 13volts? If you connect power directly to the fan, does it go on?